Rebel factory oil

[o2cmefly]

I read on this forum several times that engines with MDS should not be exposed to fuel additives. Is this true?

If you use Top Tier fuel, you will never need to use any kind of fuel additive. Fuel additives should only be used to correct problems, not on a regular basis. https://www.toptiergas.com/
See the link above, but basically just don’t buy the cheap no-name gas. That site has a list of vendors, one of which is Costco. But most popular brands of gas are Top Tier (Shell, Exxon, BP, Marathon, etc.) Even our owner’s manual recommends Top Tier gas. Here’s a photo of page 558 of the RAM 1500 owner’s manual. It specifically says not to use “fuel system cleaning agents”.

 

[Theo2019]

View attachment 154136

If you use Top Tier fuel, you will never need to use any kind of fuel additive. Fuel additives should only be used to correct problems, not on a regular basis. https://www.toptiergas.com/
See the link above, but basically just don’t buy the cheap no-name gas. That site has a list of vendors, one of which is Costco. But most popular brands of gas are Top Tier (Shell, Exxon, BP, Marathon, etc.) Even our owner’s manual recommends Top Tier gas. Here’s a photo of page 558 of the RAM 1500 owner’s manual. It specifically says not to use “fuel system cleaning agents”.

THANK YOU! This is what I heard about.

There is a thread on this forum where somebody emailed Lucas oil about using fuel additives and MDS...

https://www.ramforum.com/threads/no...em-engine-cylinder-deactivation-system.88554/

 

[TommmyD]

I don't go by what anyone says regarding what's right for oil changes.
First off, how your truck is used is how you should determine your oil change cycle. Tooling around town, stick with the recommended change interval. Towing and heavy loads, step it up.
Its been proven that modern oil and filters are more than capable of high mileage. But thats based on average use.
New engine design's are cleaner burning and oil- fuel saturation is kept way lower than older designs. I leave the break- in oil in as long as possible up till the recommended change as long as it doesn't stink of gas. The oil filter is more than capable of handling metal particles.
Do I believe in the 15k oil change....no.
7500-10000 is totally acceptable. Very cold climates where unburned fuel can escape to the oil, you may consider less than 7500 miles. Look at Honda's recent issues with this problem.
But hey, if you get a warm and fuzzy changing the oil every 3000 miles, go for it, but chances are your just wasting money.

 

[o2cmefly]

I don't go by what anyone says regarding what's right for oil changes.
First off, how your truck is used is how you should determine your oil change cycle. Tooling around town, stick with the recommended change interval. Towing and heavy loads, step it up.
Its been proven that modern oil and filters are more than capable of high mileage. But thats based on average use.
New engine design's are cleaner burning and oil- fuel saturation is kept way lower than older designs. I leave the break- in oil in as long as possible up till the recommended change as long as it doesn't stink of gas. The oil filter is more than capable of handling metal particles.
Do I believe in the 15k oil change....no.
7500-10000 is totally acceptable. Very cold climates where unburned fuel can escape to the oil, you may consider less than 7500 miles. Look at Honda's recent issues with this problem.
But hey, if you get a warm and fuzzy changing the oil every 3000 miles, go for it, but chances are your just wasting money.

LOL. The oil is not that capable, and no filter is. NONE of them, even Wix, and if you’re dumb enough to buy a POS Fram filter, you’re one step away from destroying your engine. In any case, you do you man. Enjoy your oil-burning, almost dead at 100k miles engine. As I’ve said before, oil is cheap insurance. It’s not about being warm and fuzzy. It’s about a little cheap insurance. Changing oil too frequently does zero harm to your engine. Changing it too infrequently most certainly DOES do damage. 7,500 to 10k miles is WAY too infrequent. You are just asking for trouble.

 

[Rogues Gambit]

LOL. The oil is not that capable, and no filter is. NONE of them, even Wix, and if you’re dumb enough to buy a POS Fram filter, you’re one step away from destroying your engine. In any case, you do you man. Enjoy your oil-burning, almost dead at 100k miles engine. As I’ve said before, oil is cheap insurance. It’s not about being warm and fuzzy. It’s about a little cheap insurance. Changing oil too frequently does zero harm to your engine. Changing it too infrequently most certainly DOES do damage. 7,500 to 10k miles is WAY too infrequent. You are just asking for trouble.

What he said.

Again, where the hell did this lie originate from and who actually believes it?

 

[Rogues Gambit]

7 Quarts. But cheaper to buy two 5 qt jugs of oil at once if buying PUP.

Of course, I'd just buy 1qt extra for the sole purpose of flushing anything else out as I empty it out

 

[Ram19 Owner]

I’m looking to have my 1st oil change sometime this month and I’ll be around 1000 miles. I’m also looking to switch to full Synthetic and a synthetic filter after reading posts on this forum.

Should I switch at this oil change or wait until my 2nd change around 5k miles?

 

[Hawkman]

I’m looking to have my 1st oil change sometime this month and I’ll be around 1000 miles. I’m also looking to switch to full Synthetic and a synthetic filter after reading posts on this forum.

Should I switch at this oil change or wait until my 2nd change around 5k miles?

I switched to full synthetic at my first oil change.

Not an expert, technician, or scientist, just what I have always done on my vehicles. My wife routinely puts six figures on her vehicle in a three year period. I change her new car oil at 1K, next oil change at 5K and every 5K after that.

 

[Ram19 Owner]

I switched to full synthetic at my first oil change.

Not an expert, technician, or scientist, just what I have always done on y vehicles. My wife routinely puts six figures on her vehicle in a three year period. I change her new car oil at 1K, next oil change at 5K and every 5K after that.

Thanks and I’m torn between 5-20 (what the book calls for) and 5-30 which most say help keep the “Hemi knock” down. Plus I live in the Midwest where we do have the -30F days. Any advice from the experienced ram owners? Normally I just have the dealer put in whatever they use but I’ll be taking my oil & filter to them to use. I’m long done doing my own changes any more.

 

[corneileous]

Thanks and I’m torn between 5-20 (what the book calls for) and 5-30 which most say help keep the “Hemi knock” down. Plus I live in the Midwest where we do have the -30F days. Any advice from the experienced ram owners? Normally I just have the dealer put in whatever they use but I’ll be taking my oil & filter to them to use. I’m long done doing my own changes any more.

Not saying anything’ll happen anytime soon or should happen on that brand new 19 of yours but while you’re under warranty at least, I’d stick to using 5w20 PUP and a Wix XP filter. Especially since you’re up in the cold. I recommend a WiX XP filter because it’s full synthetic media down to 25 microns, and it’s built to exact spec to that black Mopar filter you probably got on there currently and it’s formulated for that weight of oil. I’m unsure about the Royal Purple filter. It might even be made for that heavier-weight oil, I dunno.

As far as whether or not that highly well-known and highly recommended combination of the RP filter and Redline 5w30 is the absolute bees knees for these Hemis, I ran 5w20 Mobil 1 full synthetic with a small mixture of filters and when I got rid of it after 5 years, 10 years old and 70k on the clock, it was just as quiet as the day I bought it. Had a very slight tick at cold start up that went away after it warmed up but that coulda just been from a manifold bolt. I dunno, I never had it checked out.

My new truck is probably going to get a lifetime’s use of 5w20 PUP and Wix XP filter for as long as I own it, that’ll continue to get changed every 6k, to 6.5k.


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[Ram19 Owner]

Not saying anything’ll happen anytime soon or should happen on that brand new 19 of yours but while you’re under warranty at least, I’d stick to using 5w20 PUP and a Wix XP filter. Especially since you’re up in the cold. I recommend a WiX XP filter because it’s full synthetic media down to 25 microns, and it’s built to exact spec to that black Mopar filter you probably got on there currently and it’s formulated for that weight of oil. I’m unsure about the Royal Purple filter. It might even be made for that heavier-weight oil, I dunno.

As far as whether or not that highly well-known and highly recommended combination of the RP filter and Redline 5w30 is the absolute bees knees for these Hemis, I ran 5w20 Mobil 1 full synthetic with a small mixture of filters and when I got rid of it after 5 years, 10 years old and 70k on the clock, it was just as quiet as the day I bought it. Had a very slight tick at cold start up that went away after it warmed up but that coulda just been from a manifold bolt. I dunno, I never had it checked out.

My new truck is probably going to get a lifetime’s use of 5w20 PUP and Wix XP filter for as long as I own it, that’ll continue to get changed every 6k, to 6.5k.


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Thanks for the answer I am planning on the PUP with the wix filter myself, at least for the first few changes and see how it goes.

 

[Rogues Gambit]

Question, this is the wix I wanna get right? WIX 57060XP XP Extreme Duty

 

[Ram19 Owner]

Question, this is the wix I wanna get right? WIX 57060XP XP Extreme Duty

That looks like the right part # for the 5.7 Hemi non eTorque

 

[Rogues Gambit]

That looks like the right part #

Perfect, I know what I'm ordering soon then

 

[corneileous]

Doesn’t say anything about Etorque but the top ones the one I use.




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[Theo2019]

I don't go by what anyone says regarding what's right for oil changes.
First off, how your truck is used is how you should determine your oil change cycle. Tooling around town, stick with the recommended change interval. Towing and heavy loads, step it up.
Its been proven that modern oil and filters are more than capable of high mileage. But thats based on average use.
New engine design's are cleaner burning and oil- fuel saturation is kept way lower than older designs. I leave the break- in oil in as long as possible up till the recommended change as long as it doesn't stink of gas. The oil filter is more than capable of handling metal particles.
Do I believe in the 15k oil change....no.
7500-10000 is totally acceptable. Very cold climates where unburned fuel can escape to the oil, you may consider less than 7500 miles. Look at Honda's recent issues with this problem.
But hey, if you get a warm and fuzzy changing the oil every 3000 miles, go for it, but chances are your just wasting money.

You don't sound like the type of guy forking out money for Redline or Amsoil that could potentially be changed at higher OCIs - so I'll assume you mean oil in general.

My OCI is 5,000 miles. Let's say you do 10,000 mile OCIs. At 100,000 miles I did 20 changes and you did 10. I spend about $56 on my oil changes (PUP and RP filter). Lets say you drive 12,000 miles a year. So in 8 years you'll save $560 by cutting your OCIs in half on a $10,000 engine - which doesn't do anything but keep dirty oil in the engine longer. That's a bad ROI if you ask me.

 

[Ram19 Owner]

Here is the catalog search for 2019 1500s engines on the Wix site

 

[JoeCo]

You don't sound like the type of guy forking out money for Redline or Amsoil that could potentially be changed at higher OCIs - so I'll assume you mean oil in general.

My OCI is 5,000 miles. Let's say you do 10,000 mile OCIs. At 100,000 miles I did 20 changes and you did 10. I spend about $56 on my oil changes (PUP and RP filter). Lets say you drive 12,000 miles a year. So in 8 years you'll save $560 by cutting your OCIs in half on a $10,000 engine - which doesn't do anything but keep dirty oil in the engine longer. That's a bad ROI if you ask me.

Or he will just trade it in around 60-80k and not his problem anymore. Not disagreeing at all with what you are saying, just pointing out this is probably usually what actually happens in a lot of those situations(unfortunately). Buying them used at that mileage obviously becomes more of a crapshoot for a reason.

 

[corneileous]

Or he will just trade it in around 60-80k and not his problem anymore. Not disagreeing at all with what you are saying, just pointing out this is probably usually what actually happens in a lot of those situations(unfortunately). Buying them used at that mileage obviously becomes more of a crapshoot for a reason.

Unfortunately, that’s one of the ****** things about buying used is that ya just don’t know. I intend to keep my new one for at least another 9 years so they’re won’t be no worrying at all from whether or not she was taken care of from a previous owner.


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[JoeCo]

Unfortunately, that’s one of the ****** things about buying used is that ya just don’t know. I intend to keep my new one for at least another 9 years so they’re won’t be no worrying at all from whether or not she was taken care of from a previous owner.


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So true, I haven't quite gone to buying brand new yet but I've got a good system of getting them under 20k miles. Do my homework before hand, obviously carfax and service records etc. And then have enough warranty left to get a good feel for it to know if its a keeper or if I need to dump it. And then I take good care of it til around 70k miles and start over. I might be able to get away with going new when I need one again in 2-3 years, but time will tell. I'd be real nervous buying just about any half ton truck around 70-80k miles or up.