Redline question

[Musky Mike]

Redline has 0w-30, would there be any drawbacks using 0w-30 vs 5w-30 In the Hemi? Seems like 0w-30 would have better cold weather start up protection and the same hot engine viscosity protection.

 

[Hemi395]

I'm currently running RL 0w30 in my truck and have seen no difference so far between that and 5w30. What I have noticed is my truck seems to be a lot quieter on cold starts when it's cold out than on 5w30. So I'm most likely going to start running 0w30 in the winter and 5w30 in the summer.

 

[Burla]

Calling @Hemi395 hehe he beat me to it.

He has run many different oils and the two that killed his hemi tick the best, 0w30 and 5w30 redline. Now, they are very different formulas, look no farther then hths and noack. It might be that 0w30 or 0w20 for that matter, give the best balance in cold, as in cold starts. But that is where the conversation ends, 5w30 brings the butter. Now, if you have no hemi tick and the engine is smooth running, I'd say 0w30 would be a better choice in the snow belt for sure, maybe even the 0w20.

 

[pacofortacos]

0w-30 is surprising thick when cold and I don't mean cold cold.
I was surprised that it poured so much slower than the 5w-20 did on the last oil change.

Just wasn't expecting that I guess.

 

[Musky Mike]

Calling @Hemi395 hehe he beat me to it.

He has run many different oils and the two that killed his hemi tick the best, 0w30 and 5w30 redline. Now, they are very different formulas, look no farther then hths and noack. It might be that 0w30 or 0w20 for that matter, give the best balance in cold, as in cold starts. But that is where the conversation ends, 5w30 brings the butter. Now, if you have no hemi tick and the engine is smooth running, I'd say 0w30 would be a better choice in the snow belt for sure, maybe even the 0w20.

What’s the difference?

 

[Burla]

What’s the difference?

between what?

 

[Musky Mike]

between what?

0w-30 and 5w-30 formulas.

 

[Burla]

0w-30 and 5w-30 formulas.

I don't know the exact difference in base oil, if they up the pao in the pao/ester mix, because pao has better cold performance and esters have better hot performance. But most assuredly they add more vii's to 0w30. HTHS and noack are high temp tests, so the lower the noack and higher the hths the more the base oil doesn't break down under heat, and in those two measurements of viscosity 5w30 redline is better then any oil in the field, which is why the forum prefers it. When you have a ticking condition, you can believe there are higher temperatures around that condition.

The downside is that it is a thicker oil in the cold, as some members are finding out. When the engine is warm, both act the same. When there is a tick condition, I would wager 5w30 would be better at keeping that away and likely kill some ticks that 0w30 can't, we have seen some of this with even 10w30 and 5w20 versus 5w30, another story. 5w30 redline has won it stripes over time and tested against even many redline formulas. But, it is basically a 40 weight oil in use, we have seen that too. Uoa's of 40 weight come back thinner after use then 5w30 redline, so basically however you want to look at it, it is on the edge of being a 40 weight, so when it is cold for a moment it can be quite thick.

If I was dealing with hemi tick and I lived in the cold, I would go as thin as possible 0w20 or 5w20 redline and see if that helped cold piston slap. Now, that formula has killed some ticks including mine, but not all of them. It might be the best balance to treat all three conditions. It is a quagmire **** of a situation, how do you treat all the issues surrounding hemi tick? Clearly the 5w30 formula is good at dry starts and hemi tick, but cold starts is a entire new can of worms and clearly is not the best choice for that. Too many guys have experienced it at this point, it is a thing. More guys in cold places will have to guide the forum going forward, I'd gladly do it but it never snows here.

 

[16RamHemi]

@Burla as usual you make many good points and are a wealth of information. Above is a great summation. What do you think about a 5w30 and 0w30 mix? Any benefit to that over 5w20 in the cold? I feel like a little lighter would make a difference and maybe 0w or 5w20 isn't needed. Like you said, we just need to try things. Not going to hurt.

 

[Burla]

I personally would take bigger swings then mixing, because I hate it when things don't work out. But, if I was going to mix, I would be mixing 0w20 with 5w30, is that what you meant. I certainly wouldn't bother mixing 0w30 and 5w30.

 

[16RamHemi]

I personally would take bigger swings then mixing, because I hate it when things don't work out. But, if I was going to mix, I would be mixing 0w20 with 5w30, is that what you meant. I certainly wouldn't bother mixing 0w30 and 5w30.

I was meaning 0w30 with 5w30 since those were the two most talked about. Ok I'll go straight 0w30 or 5w20.

 

[CMV157]

I don't know the exact difference in base oil, if they up the pao in the pao/ester mix, because pao has better cold performance and esters have better hot performance. But most assuredly they add more vii's to 0w30. HTHS and noack are high temp tests, so the lower the noack and higher the hths the more the base oil doesn't break down under heat, and in those two measurements of viscosity 5w30 redline is better then any oil in the field, which is why the forum prefers it. When you have a ticking condition, you can believe there are higher temperatures around that condition.

The downside is that it is a thicker oil in the cold, as some members are finding out. When the engine is warm, both act the same. When there is a tick condition, I would wager 5w30 would be better at keeping that away and likely kill some ticks that 0w30 can't, we have seen some of this with even 10w30 and 5w20 versus 5w30, another story. 5w30 redline has won it stripes over time and tested against even many redline formulas. But, it is basically a 40 weight oil in use, we have seen that too. Uoa's of 40 weight come back thinner after use then 5w30 redline, so basically however you want to look at it, it is on the edge of being a 40 weight, so when it is cold for a moment it can be quite thick.

If I was dealing with hemi tick and I lived in the cold, I would go as thin as possible 0w20 or 5w20 redline and see if that helped cold piston slap. Now, that formula has killed some ticks including mine, but not all of them. It might be the best balance to treat all three conditions. It is a quagmire **** of a situation, how do you treat all the issues surrounding hemi tick? Clearly the 5w30 formula is good at dry starts and hemi tick, but cold starts is a entire new can of worms and clearly is not the best choice for that. Too many guys have experienced it at this point, it is a thing. More guys in cold places will have to guide the forum going forward, I'd gladly do it but it never snows here.

Burla not to hijack from the 5.7 side but for us 6.4 guys, can you describe the difference between RL 0w40 and RL 5w40 in the same way you did here? Dry startup tick.

 

[Simpleman]

Is it better to use 5w20 redline for the winter or just stick with the 5w30 ive been using

 

[Burla]

Burla not to hijack from the 5.7 side but for us 6.4 guys, can you describe the difference between RL 0w40 and RL 5w40 in the same way you did here? Dry startup tick.

Basically base oils, Redline 5w40 would be a little more stable, has higher hths, and that noack that screams this is true synthetic oil. Obviously 0w40 would be better in cold, but if I had a 6.4 and cold slap issues, I might look at 0w30 redline instead of 0w40. Most 0w40's operate at 12.5 cSt, but 0w30 redline operates at 11.7 cSt. It is very likely that most 0w40's will be thinner at the end on an interval then redline 0w30. You need to talk with @U&A , maybe he will address it with you. He has used both and has hemi tick. I like 5w40 redline for the 6.4, but again if I am in weather in the teens and lower, I'd consider 0w30 redline.

 

[Burla]

Is it better to use 5w20 redline for the winter or just stick with the 5w30 ive been using

I think your truck will let you know, if you get the piston slap I would think that would be a good time to go thinner.

 

[CMV157]

Basically base oils, Redline 5w40 would be a little more stable, has higher hths, and that noack that screams this is true synthetic oil. Obviously 0w40 would be better in cold, but if I had a 6.4 and cold slap issues, I might look at 0w30 redline instead of 0w40. Most 0w40's operate at 12.5 cSt, but 0w30 redline operates at 11.7 cSt. It is very likely that most 0w40's will be thinner at the end on an interval then redline 0w30. You need to talk with @U&A , maybe he will address it with you. He has used both and has hemi tick. I like 5w40 redline for the 6.4, but again if I am in weather in the teens and lower, I'd consider 0w30 redline.

My 6.4 is currently on 0w40 Amsoil. Silky quiet all the time with the occasional 1-3 second startup tick. I doubt it's hurting anything but if I could get rid of the tick completely I'd be thrilled.

 

[Burla]

My 6.4 is currently on 0w40 Amsoil. Silky quiet all the time with the occasional 1-3 second startup tick. I doubt it's hurting anything but if I could get rid of the tick completely I'd be thrilled.

Those amsoil 40 weights are fine choices, great oils. But, if you have a tick, why not try something else? tj had his 6.4 knock on amsoil and pup, two great oils, then went to redline cya tick. Ask him what weight, I think it was 5w40 redline but I can't remember everything.

 

[16RamHemi]

My 6.4 is currently on 0w40 Amsoil. Silky quiet all the time with the occasional 1-3 second startup tick. I doubt it's hurting anything but if I could get rid of the tick completely I'd be thrilled.

Redline has shown to rid many trucks start up tick on here, mine included (14 5.7). Up to you what you want to try. Any idea what the moly counts are for that Amsoil 0w40? If low, maybe try lubeguard bio tech for moly?

 

[Burla]

That is a great idea Justin, I'd try lubegard before trying redline, only costs 6 bucks 10 ounces shipped free.

 

[Pttrader]

I like the idea of just adding some Lubeguard and have the tick go away as long as it doesn't effect the oils cold starting viscosity significantly...