Replace Manifold/Header options

[78Staff]

So, it's time I guess... I've put it off for almost a year. The startup tick that goes away after 30-60 seconds due to broken exhaust manifold bolts. Had it about a year now, both sides at this point.

It's common enough that local exhaust shop just has a set labor rate for it, whether one bolt or all . $425 per side, but that's reusing the manifolds but with new hardware gaskets etc (not clear on whether they re-surface them, but I'm going with replacements). So replacement header job for the 5.7 is $700 labor, me providing the parts.

Remflex gaskets and ARP Bolt kit are a given, just not sure about the manifolds/headers. Have read enough to know to avoid BBK, so I guess looking at Go Diesel, PowerGo, etc... Kooks/AFE's not really in the budget. TBH, with 90K, I'm trying to spend as little as possible. I'm not actively looking for a new truck, but at the same time can't rule out replacing it within a year or two either. PowerGo or Go Diesel more in my budget range on top of labor, tbh.

Not really looking for "performance" per se, just fixing the issue and keeping it from reoccurring. Mostly used to tow a bass boat (1-2 hour each way though, usually every weekend), occasional errands during the week, etc but not really considered a daily driver anymore.

Any suggestions/recommendations re the above, or another brand? Thanks all...

 

[EdGs]

Do you know if the exhaust manifold bolts are broken just under the head of the bolt, or flush with the cyinder head?

Reach in through the wheel well and grab the corners of the heat shields, and feel underneath the loose corner(s).

If you only feel the thickness of a nut, the bolt is broken at the thead of the bolt. Easy-peasy to remove.

If you feel the body of the bolt still attached to the shield, it's broken flush with the cylinder head. Weld-a-washer-and-nut is the best method to remove the broken stud.

I do not recommend drilling ot the broken stud unless you have a drill template and are experienced using left-hand drills and extractors, it's way easy to ruin the threads or worse, drill into the water jacket.

Belt-sand or machine the manifolds flat, replace the gaskets and hardware (and no, you don't need fancy grade 8 bolts for the repair, they only torque to 18ft-lb or so), and you'll never have another issue.

 

[GeauxinUp]

THIS is the best non-long tube option. Check with @Nick@GotExhaust and see if he can give you a hook-up.

 

[16WhiteQC]

Aftermarket "upgraded" manifolds would be my recommendation unless you feel you need "more power", then LT headers since you tow with the truck.

 

[78Staff]

Do you know if the exhaust manifold bolts are broken just under the head of the bolt, or flush with the cyinder head?

Reach in through the wheel well and grab the corners of the heat shields, and feel underneath the loose corner(s).

If you only feel the thickness of a nut, the bolt is broken at the thead of the bolt. Easy-peasy to remove.

If you feel the body of the bolt still attached to the shield, it's broken flush with the cylinder head. Weld-a-washer-and-nut is the best method to remove the broken stud.

I do not recommend drilling ot the broken stud unless you have a drill template and are experienced using left-hand drills and extractors, it's way easy to ruin the threads or worse, drill into the water jacket.

Belt-sand or machine the manifolds flat, replace the gaskets and hardware (and no, you don't need fancy grade 8 bolts for the repair, they only torque to 18ft-lb or so), and you'll never have another issue.

Thanks, I will check them this weekend to find out where they are broken...

 

[78Staff]

THIS is the best non-long tube option. Check with @Nick@GotExhaust and see if he can give you a hook-up.

Yep those are the ones I was looking at mainly - so the included hardware is up to snuff, no need for fancy hardware kit then?

 

[78Staff]

Aftermarket "upgraded" manifolds would be my recommendation unless you feel you need "more power", then LT headers since you tow with the truck.

Nope staying away from LT's lol... looking for simplest solution without breaking the bank so to speak... Seems like the Go Diesel's are the popular choice, if not re-using/sanding the oems...

 

[Nick@GotExhaust]

Yep those are the ones I was looking at mainly - so the included hardware is up to snuff, no need for fancy hardware kit then?

Those come with quality hardware and gaskets. The manifolds have issues due to the thin flange warping and snapping the hardware. Its not faulty hardware causing the issue, its the manifolds. So once you replace them with a quality option, you wont have that same issue happen again.

Message me if you would like a quote

 

[78Staff]

Those come with quality hardware and gaskets. The manifolds have issues due to the thin flange warping and snapping the hardware. Its not faulty hardware causing the issue, its the manifolds. So once you replace them with a quality option, you wont have that same issue happen again.

Message me if you would like a quote

Thanks Nick, yes I'll reach out...

 

[78Staff]

Got er done... manifolds from Nick and local exhaust shop did the work... $1200 all in give or take .

Now I need to replace pads & rotors, that's another grand basically. And spark plugs soon too since I'm approaching 100K...

Still, cheaper than a new truck payment (and it's insurance) I suppose .


Oh, funny story when I dropped it off, the guy mentioned they did another one recently and the truck owner was insisting on using a brand they hadn't used before... Go Diesel lol. So they had to order them in for him. I said yep that's what you're installing on mine today too. He said they were impressed with them, quality stuff.

 

[GeauxinUp]

Got er done... manifolds from Nick and local exhaust shop did the work... $1200 all in give or take .

Now I need to replace pads & rotors, that's another grand basically. And spark plugs soon too since I'm approaching 100K...

Still, cheaper than a new truck payment (and it's insurance) I suppose .


Oh, funny story when I dropped it off, the guy mentioned they did another one recently and the truck owner was insisting on using a brand they hadn't used before... Go Diesel lol. So they had to order them in for him. I said yep that's what you're installing on mine today too. He said they were impressed with them, quality stuff.

Side note, my insurance DECREASED when I moved from my 2015 to my 2026 and the same thing happened when wife went from a 2016 Durango to a 2025 Telluride. I get your point, but was just throwing that out there.
Glad you got the manifolds done, sounds like a "reasonable" price all-in. Unless you're paying somebody to do the pads and rotors, it'll be WAY under $1k. It's a pretty easy driveway/garage job.

 

[Nick@GotExhaust]

Got er done... manifolds from Nick and local exhaust shop did the work... $1200 all in give or take .

Now I need to replace pads & rotors, that's another grand basically. And spark plugs soon too since I'm approaching 100K...

Still, cheaper than a new truck payment (and it's insurance) I suppose .


Oh, funny story when I dropped it off, the guy mentioned they did another one recently and the truck owner was insisting on using a brand they hadn't used before... Go Diesel lol. So they had to order them in for him. I said yep that's what you're installing on mine today too. He said they were impressed with them, quality stuff.

glad to hear you got them installed and you are all set. BUT....you have BD Diesel manifolds.

They are definitely the go to option for manifold replacements. Anyone interested we usually have them IN stock. Just send me a message for info and pricing

 

[78Staff]

Thanks Nick - not sure if typo or autocorrect .

 

[reno944t]

Are the AFE manifolds any good? or just go with the BD?