Sound System Install Questions (Noob Alert)

[Sud]

I haven't even made the first purchase yet. Still researching equipment. In a nutshell, thinkin a 2-way 6.5 component speaker setup, factory 3.0 headunit (for now at least), either a JBL MS-8, AC LC7i, JL Cleansweep (something for the factory system integration), and possibly a single 10" or 12" sub under back seat. Running everything with a 5 channel amp.

But my concern - being new to this, how exactly would i go about doing this install? Looking for details... did some searches, but not much out there that goes to the level of detail i'm inquiring about.

1. Wiring to the Processor - where do i tap the factory wiring for the processor?
2. Wiring to the Amp - where do i pick up signal for the amp?
3. Wiring from the amp to the front speakers?
- do i have run wire from the amp to both the speaker and the tweeter? or does the wiring run from amp to the crossover, then out of the crossover to each the tweeter and speaker?
- just how difficult is it to run this wiring from an amp to these door speakers? anyone documented (pics) of where/how they ran their wiring?
4. Sound deadener - thinkin i'll go with the "less is more" approach (~25% coverage?), but what's the trick to this?

I've researched for countless hours on equipment (near to burn-out status) and tried looking into install advice/ideas, but not having much luck. Just lookin for a little direction from those who've been there, done that.

 

[WhiteExpress]

My most humble of opinion (and what I did).
Save your money on a 'factory integration' bit and ditch the POS UConnect 3.0.

I swapped to a DD Pioneer and it sounds / looks SO MUCH better / cleaner!

1: If you insist on using a factory integration deal, I would run a multi-strand cable (think 8 conductor line for household heaters) from the dash to the LOC. No reason to try and pull signal from all over the truck.

2: Signal for the amp would come from the LOC above

3: If you're installing components in the front, You'd run wire from Amp to Cross-over.
Then Cross Over to Tweet and Cross over to Woofer

4: I added a couple pieces under my rear seat when I had the carpet up.
I can't tell if it changed a damned thing.

The big issue I have is lose door panels. The door card mounts to the door with a J hook, if you put a piece of camper tape (foam tape) on each hook, the door card mounts nice and solid and doesn't vibrate around.

Did I mention no need to save the UConnect 3.Junk?

 

[PX8]

My most humble of opinion (and what I did).
Save your money on a 'factory integration' bit and ditch the POS UConnect 3.0.

I swapped to a DD Pioneer and it sounds / looks SO MUCH better / cleaner!

1: If you insist on using a factory integration deal, I would run a multi-strand cable (think 8 conductor line for household heaters) from the dash to the LOC. No reason to try and pull signal from all over the truck.

2: Signal for the amp would come from the LOC above

3: If you're installing components in the front, You'd run wire from Amp to Cross-over.
Then Cross Over to Tweet and Cross over to Woofer

4: I added a couple pieces under my rear seat when I had the carpet up.
I can't tell if it changed a damned thing.

The big issue I have is lose door panels. The door card mounts to the door with a J hook, if you put a piece of camper tape (foam tape) on each hook, the door card mounts nice and solid and doesn't vibrate around.

Did I mention no need to save the UConnect 3.Junk?

White Express is right here. There is a great sence of satisfaction of installing installing things yourself for sure, but no one would pick on you if you got a shop to install everything. Most places will work with you on prices and usually the install is pretty much free if you look into the cost of the wires, connectors, and such that you'll have to buy. Plus of my gosh it's hitting on summer now and wow it's gotten hot here in my neck of the woods.

 

[Etroze86]

WhiteExpress covered most of it.
Running wire through the door joint by popping the rubber cover out of both sides of the door jam and fish wire through it that way. Now don't get frustrated but you will want to take your time putting them back on as it isn't easy getting it completely seated back into the jams. I suggest having at least one beer during this process as it will calm you after trying to seat it 50 times.
Deadening tap the panel and it rings(vibrates) put a healthy square on there. Doors will need a lot of coverage.
You can get a really nice Double Din for the price of the MS-8 if you want to go that way but I totally understand wanting to keep a factory look as it makes it less attractive for people to steal.
Hope this helps and throw in expense of a case of beer like I said it will help through the frustration of first intall lol.

 

[crzetex]

Running the door speaker wire was not as bad as it seems.

Once you take the rubber boot off the connector assembly on the cab side you will see a white plastic piece that holds two connectors (two on driver side, one on pass.). There are two tabs on the top and bottom that release this assembly. Once this is out I pulled the assembly out far enough to disconnect the connecters. These are typical auto connectors with a push down tab and then pull them apart. Once you have them disconnected you can move the door portion where every you need to.

I used 16ga wire and ran it through an opening in the white connector holder. I only ran the mid bass wire into the door and left the cross over under the dash. My tweeters are in the dash where the 3.5" speakers were.

To solve the problem Etroze86 was talking about I put the rubber boot back on the white connector holder and then reconnected the door and cab harnesses. Then all you have to do is push it back into the hole until it clicks in.

I wish I had taken some pictures as this was really not as bad as I had read.

Also there is a ton of room behind the A/C controls and that is were I put my LOC. I also tapped into the front speaker wires at this location (these have full signal on the base radio).

Hope this helps, let me know if you have any other questions.

 

[BradKnob]

1. I have no experience with LOC and factory head unit so no comment.

2. If youre using an MS-8, thats where the signal for the amp comes from. In your case you would use factory signal via speaker wires to get signal to ms-8. As you would any other LOC.

This case, signal goes Headunit > ms-8 > amp > speakers > ears

3. Again, if using ms-8 you do NOT use the crossovers. The ms-8 will send frequencies (chosen by you) to the designated speaker. (through the amp of course) And yes you will have to run a seperae wire to the tweeter and the mid (I hate running wires fuknpainiunthaesaasssss!!! listen to etroze...beer will help)

4. I like to do mild deadener, then after all is installed you will figure out where you need it.


I just installed an ms-8 last night. ill be writing about it in my thread soon

 

[PX8]

I do have a MRX-V70. 5 channel alpine amp and it's plenty for me. That's for me though. It's enough that the neighbor kids like it, if that helps.