kylo69
Junior Member
- Joined
- Dec 4, 2016
- Posts
- 12
- Reaction score
- 5
- Location
- In the Heart of Dixie - USA
- Ram Year
- 2016
- Engine
- Hemi 5.7
Sound Testing / Upgrading your speakers in the Ram (A Sound Tutorial & Test)
My Background: I know sound (not a “true Sound Engineer”, but I have lots of experience in this area). Went to College for IT (what I do for a living), Partial Scholarship in Music (Playing Sax, still do), DJ and sound systems engineer for lots of years (fun night time job when I was single) for all kinds of events, both as me being the featured act and for other bands/acts (All but radio) and worked at a Car Stereo Installation business for 3 years when I was in High School/College as well.
All this is from my years of experience in and around music and sound. People can agree to disagree, but at the end of the day it’s what “Sounds best to your ears”. Example: Bose, either love them or hate them. Old saying is “No highs, no lows, it must be Bose”. Others love the fullness of the sound and how they port their sound using full range, smaller speakers. Beauty is in the eye…well ear, of the beholder right?
I won’t go into much detail on the actual physical install (except for a few minor things) since you can always go to any vendor’s website for pics and videos on how. This is more from a sound point of view.
Understand that you can only do SO MUCH to the system anyway with the existing wiring and the truck enclosures. At some point your “HiFi” sound will be compromised by the factory wiring.
Let’s start with my system on what I decided to do as an example, but this can be applied to any system really, depending upon what amps, speaker, main head unit (stereo) and money you want to throw at it. I have the “Upgraded” Alpine 8.4A system (I did the aftermarket software upgrade for Nav) as I may swap out the main unit down the road.
What I noticed coming from a Bang and Olufsen system in my previous vehicle, that this one had WAY too much midrange and was muddled sounding and lacked depth. Alpine, shame on you.
Now, on to the Analysis / Installation.
Before we begin
Step 1 – Decisions for $$$. Do you want to completely replace everything? Add functionality to your system? Keep integrations with Climate Control, etc. Add to only, or basic inexpensive upgrades.
Step 2 – Determine what your “Speaker set up is” How many are there, their locations, how they sound and what is lacking
Step 3 –Research your Head unit to determine what it’s capable of (DSP is a big deal, so is the sound of various inputs via USB, Bluetooth, Radio, XM, and etc).
Step 4 – Find out what type of AMP you have, what it’s capability is of “Power…not always wattage here” and what load it can handle for driving the speakers.
Step 5 – Is the existing setup using a crossover already? It will make a difference on what you can do.
Now after getting all your Ducks in a row, we can begin with the upgrade.
This is an example of what I started with and I may decide to add more $$$ at some point in time.
NOTE: If you have the same system and have issues with the “Center channel being too loud all of the time, TAKE OFF SURROUND SOUND”. It will over sound louder anyway do to several factors, but this simple thing will help a bunch.
--------Test Equipment--------
I used my laptop, with analog Spectrum Analysis, an external calibration sound MIC and a good sound program with add ins for visualizations (Jriver MediaCenter, DSP tools and AnSpec plugins for the test audio sound output). There are also 3rd Party tools that do Car Tests (for example: JL Audio makes one) and other vendors that you can even install on your smartphones (I used HolmImpluse on my laptop), a Digital Sound Level Meter that I bought years ago from Radio Shack and more importantly, my ears.
Also, I’m not going into the Technical detail or showing all the test charts, I wanted to do this tutorial the easy way so that anyone could do it with any tools that they choose to use. You can read more info here if you want: Jriver Testing External Speakers
--------Acoustic Factor--------
Ok, for this, before you begin with any upgrade you need baseline for your sound system for all tests.
Always remove ALL EQ changes (Bass, Midrange, Treble), center the sound system (no fading or balance) , TAKE OFF SURROUND SOUND if it has it, and make sure all speakers work (this makes a difference of course). Set a test volume! I used both 20 and 25 as my tests.
After you have everything baselined, next use only high quality music for testing. I used my “test equipment section” to verify the high-quality music). I got the sources only from a HD audio sales site or the original CDs/DVDs. Make sure you use only high quality audio files for testing. It’s funny how many people complain their system sounds horrible only to find out, the only thing they listen to is Pandora or XM. I try to use true DDD CD audio whenever possible instead of AAD or ADD (sometimes its labeled as remastered as well, DDD is Digital recording, Digital mixing, Digital transfer). Let’s not get on a tangent on true audio sound is Analog, as we are testing digital sound here (DSP hello?!?).
All digital files are exported using my test music below using either FLAC or M4A (the newer M4A mac format is better than it used to be btw) files with the highest possible audio that the source audio has (44,100 sample rate, variable bitrates for different songs starting at 694 – 1100 range or higher, etc.) Note, that MP3s give you up to 320 and music from a direct DDD CD can go up to 1411 with the 44.1k sample rate.
Always use the same songs for testing, you can make your own list but here I will use the following with different Genres also:
1. Jazz – Since I fell for you – Bob James / David Sanborn / Al Jarreau
2. Blues – Rivera Paradise – Stevie Ray Vaughan & Double Trouble
3. Classical – Intro to Also Sprach Zarathustra (reprise, original version) – TimeWarp Erich Kunzel & the Cincinnati Pops
4. Vocal Standard – I who have nothing – Tom Jones
5. Rock (Newer Alt Metal) – In The End – Linkin Park
6. Rap – Going back to Cali – LL Cool J
7. Rock Opera – Suite Madame Blue – Styx
Alternatives: Let it Whip - Dazz Band, Brass Monkey – Beastie Boys, Bohemian Rhapsody – Queen, FM – Steely Dan, My Way – Frank Sinatra, Orion – Metallica, Any John Williams Classical Tracks.
Note: I skipped some other Genres since I want to get more full sounds and I also skipped a lot of newer music since I wanted to get away from “over produced, sound corrections”. If a something is out of tune, I want to hear it.
--------True Speaker Sound Quality--------
Don’t fall prey to the more is better (more money means it sounds better, more speakers sound best, or 3-way is better than 2-way).
Understand this: 2-way speakers of good quality will out preform 3 way speakers EVERYTIME. 3-way speakers are a way for car audio manufacturers to save money. All analog audio sound we hear is produced by vibrations, right?!? (insert sarcasm here). Good tweeters cost more money to develop than cheaper cones, so what the engineers and companies decided a while ago is to develop “3-way speakers” to save money. If you look at a TWO way and a THREE way of the same speaker manufacturer. You will notice that their “Mid-range” on the 3 way is usually the same size as their “High range” on their 2 way. Still not convinced? Look at the 3 way speakers up close and then the 2 way. The tweeter on the 2-way speaker looks different than BOTH the “high/mid” on the 3 way. Also, take notice that on the 2-way speaker it says almost the SAME RANGE as the 3 way (except for maybe the lower end, bass). You will want a sub-woofer anyway for the lows.
The best speakers can have a tiny high range quality speaker and a large “full / fuller range” speaker behind them. More sound vibrations come out of the higher quality 2-way speaker since there is more air coming out from behind the tweeter and the three way has more area in the way.
I can go on tangents on speakers by vendors but I’m not, let’s just say I prefer to spend money where it’s needed.
--------OHM Factor (basics)--------
Knowing your AMP or Radio is big here. Also, understanding the basics of OHM’s law, amperage, power etc. How things are wired and all. I’m not going to go into a lengthy discussion here (there is plenty of info on the Internet for this). Higher OHM speakers wired in Parallel creates more strain on an amp and gives you less overall volume and push vs correct speakers wired in series, more push and more volume. That’s why most BASS is wired in series and bridged mono…lots of PUSH/BOOM/VOLUME. However, if an AMP can handle it and to make it sound better, usually normal speakers are wired in Parallel…you get the idea.
Rule of Thumb: what I would do is get lower Ohm speakers on a factory amp so the amp can push harder without strain so you don’t burn up the factory amp. Keep the speakers the same as much as possible also. I like lower Ohm speakers in a car for better sound quality. Loud isn’t always better, however I do want to crank it up from time to time. If you push an amp too hard sound gets distorted and noise distortion can blow speakers and even the amp.
Think about this…if you wire too many regular (non-LED) Christmas lights in a what happens to the lights? ...cont...
My Background: I know sound (not a “true Sound Engineer”, but I have lots of experience in this area). Went to College for IT (what I do for a living), Partial Scholarship in Music (Playing Sax, still do), DJ and sound systems engineer for lots of years (fun night time job when I was single) for all kinds of events, both as me being the featured act and for other bands/acts (All but radio) and worked at a Car Stereo Installation business for 3 years when I was in High School/College as well.
All this is from my years of experience in and around music and sound. People can agree to disagree, but at the end of the day it’s what “Sounds best to your ears”. Example: Bose, either love them or hate them. Old saying is “No highs, no lows, it must be Bose”. Others love the fullness of the sound and how they port their sound using full range, smaller speakers. Beauty is in the eye…well ear, of the beholder right?
I won’t go into much detail on the actual physical install (except for a few minor things) since you can always go to any vendor’s website for pics and videos on how. This is more from a sound point of view.
Understand that you can only do SO MUCH to the system anyway with the existing wiring and the truck enclosures. At some point your “HiFi” sound will be compromised by the factory wiring.
Let’s start with my system on what I decided to do as an example, but this can be applied to any system really, depending upon what amps, speaker, main head unit (stereo) and money you want to throw at it. I have the “Upgraded” Alpine 8.4A system (I did the aftermarket software upgrade for Nav) as I may swap out the main unit down the road.
What I noticed coming from a Bang and Olufsen system in my previous vehicle, that this one had WAY too much midrange and was muddled sounding and lacked depth. Alpine, shame on you.
Now, on to the Analysis / Installation.
Before we begin
Step 1 – Decisions for $$$. Do you want to completely replace everything? Add functionality to your system? Keep integrations with Climate Control, etc. Add to only, or basic inexpensive upgrades.
Step 2 – Determine what your “Speaker set up is” How many are there, their locations, how they sound and what is lacking
Step 3 –Research your Head unit to determine what it’s capable of (DSP is a big deal, so is the sound of various inputs via USB, Bluetooth, Radio, XM, and etc).
Step 4 – Find out what type of AMP you have, what it’s capability is of “Power…not always wattage here” and what load it can handle for driving the speakers.
Step 5 – Is the existing setup using a crossover already? It will make a difference on what you can do.
Now after getting all your Ducks in a row, we can begin with the upgrade.
This is an example of what I started with and I may decide to add more $$$ at some point in time.
NOTE: If you have the same system and have issues with the “Center channel being too loud all of the time, TAKE OFF SURROUND SOUND”. It will over sound louder anyway do to several factors, but this simple thing will help a bunch.
--------Test Equipment--------
I used my laptop, with analog Spectrum Analysis, an external calibration sound MIC and a good sound program with add ins for visualizations (Jriver MediaCenter, DSP tools and AnSpec plugins for the test audio sound output). There are also 3rd Party tools that do Car Tests (for example: JL Audio makes one) and other vendors that you can even install on your smartphones (I used HolmImpluse on my laptop), a Digital Sound Level Meter that I bought years ago from Radio Shack and more importantly, my ears.
Also, I’m not going into the Technical detail or showing all the test charts, I wanted to do this tutorial the easy way so that anyone could do it with any tools that they choose to use. You can read more info here if you want: Jriver Testing External Speakers
--------Acoustic Factor--------
Ok, for this, before you begin with any upgrade you need baseline for your sound system for all tests.
Always remove ALL EQ changes (Bass, Midrange, Treble), center the sound system (no fading or balance) , TAKE OFF SURROUND SOUND if it has it, and make sure all speakers work (this makes a difference of course). Set a test volume! I used both 20 and 25 as my tests.
After you have everything baselined, next use only high quality music for testing. I used my “test equipment section” to verify the high-quality music). I got the sources only from a HD audio sales site or the original CDs/DVDs. Make sure you use only high quality audio files for testing. It’s funny how many people complain their system sounds horrible only to find out, the only thing they listen to is Pandora or XM. I try to use true DDD CD audio whenever possible instead of AAD or ADD (sometimes its labeled as remastered as well, DDD is Digital recording, Digital mixing, Digital transfer). Let’s not get on a tangent on true audio sound is Analog, as we are testing digital sound here (DSP hello?!?).
All digital files are exported using my test music below using either FLAC or M4A (the newer M4A mac format is better than it used to be btw) files with the highest possible audio that the source audio has (44,100 sample rate, variable bitrates for different songs starting at 694 – 1100 range or higher, etc.) Note, that MP3s give you up to 320 and music from a direct DDD CD can go up to 1411 with the 44.1k sample rate.
Always use the same songs for testing, you can make your own list but here I will use the following with different Genres also:
1. Jazz – Since I fell for you – Bob James / David Sanborn / Al Jarreau
2. Blues – Rivera Paradise – Stevie Ray Vaughan & Double Trouble
3. Classical – Intro to Also Sprach Zarathustra (reprise, original version) – TimeWarp Erich Kunzel & the Cincinnati Pops
4. Vocal Standard – I who have nothing – Tom Jones
5. Rock (Newer Alt Metal) – In The End – Linkin Park
6. Rap – Going back to Cali – LL Cool J
7. Rock Opera – Suite Madame Blue – Styx
Alternatives: Let it Whip - Dazz Band, Brass Monkey – Beastie Boys, Bohemian Rhapsody – Queen, FM – Steely Dan, My Way – Frank Sinatra, Orion – Metallica, Any John Williams Classical Tracks.
Note: I skipped some other Genres since I want to get more full sounds and I also skipped a lot of newer music since I wanted to get away from “over produced, sound corrections”. If a something is out of tune, I want to hear it.
--------True Speaker Sound Quality--------
Don’t fall prey to the more is better (more money means it sounds better, more speakers sound best, or 3-way is better than 2-way).
Understand this: 2-way speakers of good quality will out preform 3 way speakers EVERYTIME. 3-way speakers are a way for car audio manufacturers to save money. All analog audio sound we hear is produced by vibrations, right?!? (insert sarcasm here). Good tweeters cost more money to develop than cheaper cones, so what the engineers and companies decided a while ago is to develop “3-way speakers” to save money. If you look at a TWO way and a THREE way of the same speaker manufacturer. You will notice that their “Mid-range” on the 3 way is usually the same size as their “High range” on their 2 way. Still not convinced? Look at the 3 way speakers up close and then the 2 way. The tweeter on the 2-way speaker looks different than BOTH the “high/mid” on the 3 way. Also, take notice that on the 2-way speaker it says almost the SAME RANGE as the 3 way (except for maybe the lower end, bass). You will want a sub-woofer anyway for the lows.
The best speakers can have a tiny high range quality speaker and a large “full / fuller range” speaker behind them. More sound vibrations come out of the higher quality 2-way speaker since there is more air coming out from behind the tweeter and the three way has more area in the way.
I can go on tangents on speakers by vendors but I’m not, let’s just say I prefer to spend money where it’s needed.
--------OHM Factor (basics)--------
Knowing your AMP or Radio is big here. Also, understanding the basics of OHM’s law, amperage, power etc. How things are wired and all. I’m not going to go into a lengthy discussion here (there is plenty of info on the Internet for this). Higher OHM speakers wired in Parallel creates more strain on an amp and gives you less overall volume and push vs correct speakers wired in series, more push and more volume. That’s why most BASS is wired in series and bridged mono…lots of PUSH/BOOM/VOLUME. However, if an AMP can handle it and to make it sound better, usually normal speakers are wired in Parallel…you get the idea.
Rule of Thumb: what I would do is get lower Ohm speakers on a factory amp so the amp can push harder without strain so you don’t burn up the factory amp. Keep the speakers the same as much as possible also. I like lower Ohm speakers in a car for better sound quality. Loud isn’t always better, however I do want to crank it up from time to time. If you push an amp too hard sound gets distorted and noise distortion can blow speakers and even the amp.
Think about this…if you wire too many regular (non-LED) Christmas lights in a what happens to the lights? ...cont...