Speaker/sub setup - NEED HELP

[Ray Karpis]

First time poster...need a little feedback. I have a 2010 Ram 1500 Quad Cab (w/o Alpine). Started with stock headunit and stock speakers.

I added Polk dxi350 3.5" to the front dash.

I'm now looking to upgrade the other speakers. I want a nice, balanced sound...I want solid bass but am not looking to have an out-of-balance "thump" that overwhelms the rest of the sound.

I don't have the budget to upgrade both sets of door speakers, add an amp, add a sub and a mono amp. So here is what I'm considering:

- 4-channel amp, upgrade 6.5 in the front door and upgrade 6x9 in the rear doors. Hoping the bass from the 6x9s would be sufficient.

OR

- 4-channel amp, upgrade 6.5" in the front door, disconnect the rear 6x9s (for now), bridge the remaining 2 channels and add a 10" sub under the rear seat. I could always come back and upgrade the 6x9s later.

Which of these setups is most likely to produce a nice, balanced sound where the bass balances with the mids and highs from the 6.5 and 3.5?

Thanks!

 

[BlkRamRt]

WELCOME! upgrade all speakers and add the amp...and if you dont like the bass from the speakers add the sub later

 

[Etroze86]

Well it all depends on what you want to buy. Im with BlkRam and if you are looking for an upgrade do that, but if you are expanding down the road for soundquality either get a head unit geared towards SQ or get a DSP. Source of signal is going to be one of the more important parts of a build when getting a nice balanced sound while being able to turn it up when you want to rock out.

 

[BlkRamRt]

i Agree with Etroze86...you dont want to invest $ into your system and have it sound like crap.

 

[Ray Karpis]

So are you saying I need to upgrade HU regardless or only once I add a sub?

Sounds like I may need to start there along with amp/speakers upgrade.

 

[Etroze86]

I would say do a lot of research on the direction you are going either it be SQ orientated or just a basic upgrade. Basic upgrade you can get away with a quality LOC, if SQ orentated I would for sure look at a DSP if you want to keep the stock head unit. Couple of manufatures that make a quality LOC are PAC and AuioControl. DSP's I'm a fan of rockford fosgates 3.sixty and can be picked up used for a couple hundred bucks. Hope this helps.

 

[BlkRamRt]

So are you saying I need to upgrade HU regardless or only once I add a sub?

Sounds like I may need to start there along with amp/speakers upgrade.

you dont have to but it would be better...i am running my system with the basic loc and it sound alright but with a better processor i know it will sound alot cleaner and more tuning ability.

 

[Graygoose]

Kicker makes a 6x9 component set, that gives you the 6x9 drop in midbass, and the ability to mount the tweeter up on the door. Do a set of those in front and rear, and add one 10" underseat in the back. Do a 5 channel amp to power everything. Simple, yet huge change in sound.

 

[kkreit01]

Save up, and do it right the first time. That's the thing I learned while I'm still working on mine. Cheaping out initially will only cost you more in the end. I wish I would have gone with 5 channel amp, and DSP or EQL in the first place. You don't have to disconnect the rear speakers, just keep them stock for now. I'd opt for a nice set of components or high quality coax in the front. I'd ditch the dash speakers, as they will only hurt your sound quality. Buy a 5 channel amp. Use it to run the front speakers + sub. I would replace the HU if I had the base system. That will make the most difference. Add sound dampening to your budget. You don't have to go crazy, and cover the whole interior. Replace the rear speakers last -- as they are least important (unless you can drive from the back seat) .

 

[Caldwell]

From what I have read the Front Speakers is where " most " of the Bass from the OEM system comes from as the rears have some sort of signal block to reduce bass output ??

It sounds like your almost trying to rush yourself into having a better stereo which I have learned from prior experience is more costly in the end game. In your position, since you already have a set of POLK DXI350's in the dash. Since you want to have decent punch, but not be over powering. I would look into just replacing the 6x9's at once. depending on how much power your looking for, you can buy some 50-75w RMS speakers for 45-80$ a pair. I would look into the 6x9's and sound damping of the truck. Those alone will provide a significant difference in sound. Then in the next stage look into a 5 channel amp, and power the speakers. You might be impressed with the bump of powered 6x9's. If you still need more then in the 3rd stage of the build find your sub/enclosure of choice.

this is purely suggestive, but I think most guys on here will agree if you take the time to put it together you are going to be so much happier with end result. plus its fun adding things slowly over time and figuring out what really sounds awesome.

 

[Ray Karpis]

From what I have read the Front Speakers is where " most " of the Bass from the OEM system comes from as the rears have some sort of signal block to reduce bass output ??

It sounds like your almost trying to rush yourself into having a better stereo which I have learned from prior experience is more costly in the end game. In your position, since you already have a set of POLK DXI350's in the dash. Since you want to have decent punch, but not be over powering. I would look into just replacing the 6x9's at once. depending on how much power your looking for, you can buy some 50-75w RMS speakers for 45-80$ a pair. I would look into the 6x9's and sound damping of the truck. Those alone will provide a significant difference in sound. Then in the next stage look into a 5 channel amp, and power the speakers. You might be impressed with the bump of powered 6x9's. If you still need more then in the 3rd stage of the build find your sub/enclosure of choice.

I like the idea of doing this in stages...that makes more sense than trying to get to end game and only doing it half-way. But here's the deal - I'm just trying to upgrade the system...I'm not trying to go for having a top tier system.

If I add 6x9s to the front doors (unamped) with sound dampening, would you also recommend upgrading the head unit at the same time? Will the OEM stereo have enough juice to get anything out of the 6x9s?

 

[autokraftgt]

SInce you already have the polks in dash...I would purchase a 6x9 with tweeter that you like. That will take care of your front stage nicely. If you did NOT have the Polks, I would suggest buying a nice component set containing a good 6.5" midbass woofer (front doors), with a seperate tweeter mounted elsewhere (sail panel, dash, a-pillars)

Don't worry about the rear doors...they're worthless...power them with HU power or disconnect them all together.
Buy a 10" sub for the rear....if it's an option like you say....it's a NO BRAINER!!!!
then buy a 5 channel amp and power the front speakers , and save the 5th channel for the sub...that will produce the best sound!
You'll have a solid sub stage, a solid front stage, and money left over in your pocket.
Regarding the HU...you can get a LOC and get by with the factory HU...
but for better signal, and better sound...you have two options, buy a DSP or buy an aftermarket HU with DSP....that will sound better than having a LOC, but it will cost a bit more money....you can always add the dsp or aftermarket HU later once you get "the bug" lol

 

[Ray Karpis]

After a little more consideration, I think I'm going to put the Alpine SPR-69 in the front doors.

I'm also strongly considering amping them with a 4-channel amp, leaving 2 channels open for future updates.

Here's my questions, I know if I keep factory HU I need an LOC.

Is the Scosche SLC4 LOC passable? Runs $19.99 at Crutchfield. If not, I could bump up to the AudioControl LC6i which goes for $119.00.

But if I'm going to drop $120 for an LOC, could I just not upgrade the HU and get the same result?

 

[Etroze86]

The LC6i is like 10x the LOC the SLC4 is and is a quality piece of equipment. In the audio world you do get what you pay for. On top of the HU that you would buy you would also have to tack on 60-120 bucks for a wiring harness for these trucks. When you start adding it up the LC6 is the least expensive way to go.

 

[Graygoose]

Put the $120 into a better HU.

 

[Ray Karpis]

So I finally made the first move on the upgrade.

Based on another recommendation on here, I ordered the JBL GTO938 6x9s for the front doors. I had been thinking hard about the Alpine SPR-69s but opted for the JBLs instead. The JBLs are 2 ohm, and I'm hoping to get better sound out of them off the factory HU. Had an unexpected promotional credit on my Amazon account and ended up getting the JBLs, 2-day shipped for $18.

I'm going to install them and see what they sound like w/o an amp. If I'm not happy with that, I'll probably next add an amp/LOC and see where I'm at.

 

[Ray Karpis]

So I spoke with Crutchfield about a recommendation on adding an amp for the front 6x9s (not going to amp the rear doors). They recommended an S/O 2-channel 75Wx2. The rep said I did not need an LOC and could tap into the speaker inputs and be fine.

Is this accurate? Would I be ok with that setup? Would it change if I decided to add a 4-channel amp instead (for future sub upgrade)? Would I then need the LOC?

 

[kkreit01]

You could certainly try it. I know the JBL EZ amps are excellent to use in this manner. I even used it with the high-power Alpine signal, and it worked fine. You won't need a remote turn-on if you use the high-input signals. I really like these amps. I just wish I would have bought the 5-channel up front. Since I have OE Alpine, I had to add additional equipment, but that's another story. You'll be fine as long as you don't have OE Alpine.

 

[Ray Karpis]

I'm finding that the JBL GTO938sare not a perfect fit for the 2010 1500 Quad Cab. Looks like I'm going to have to do a little modding to get the screw holes to line up just right.

Also not liking the connection I'm getting with the female quick connects I crimped onto the factory wires after cutting off the factory plug. Any tips on getting a nice, secure connection?

 

[Ray Karpis]

Well, I finished installing the 6x9s...they sound as good as can be expected off the factory HU. Definite improvement, though.

Just placed my order from Crutchfield for the amp and components. Here's my weekend project.

Sound Ordnance M4050 50W x 4 Car Amplifier
EFX Amplifier Wiring Kit 8-gauge w/Patch Cord
EFX 17-ft. Stereo RCA Patch Cable
Rockford RF-HLC4 4 Ch. Speaker Level to RCA Output
T-SPEC Speaker Wire 16 1' GA Spkr Wire WHT/BLK
Posi-Products Connector Kit 6 pieces Posi-Tap 16-18 Gauge

Going to add the amplifier and re-run speaker wires this weekend. Also going to go ahead and run wires to the rear seat for future sub install.

I'm going with the Rockford Fosgate RF1S410 10" component sub installed in a this custom enclosure. Dodge RAM Quad Cab 2002 Up Sin 10" Drivers Side Subwoofer Sub Enclosure Box | eBay

Any thoughts or advice?