Starting to plan 2014 sport build..deciding which route to take

[IxsharpxI]

Hey everyone this is my first post on the forum but have been having fun looking around. I purchased a 2014 ram sport about 3 days ago.... and im already ready to start tearing into the stereo haha.. cant help myself and i have a ton of gear i just took out of my old car. Now im thinking about doing this build in possibly two stages..

Stage one -

Swap out rear 6x9s with 6.5" Hertz Hi-Energy Coax

Swap out front 6x9s with 6.5" Hertz Hi-Energy Components and either put the tweeters in the dash location or in the door sill and leave the dash speakers unplugged ( I would wire the crossover input from the door stock wires, i think they are full range)

This in theory will maintain the 4 ohms required in the back and will lower the load on the front to 4ohm but it wont be isolated on the dash speakers and should still balance decent.

Stage two -

Either add the AmpPac Pro and run RCAs to amps (Great new device for non premium systems) - https://catalog.pac-audio.com/catalog/amppro-amplifier-interfaces/ap4-ch41-r2

Or add a Audiocontrol DM-810..

This is where im not sure what to do. Because obviously having the tune-ablilty of the DSP is valuable however i would like to not have to splice OEM wires. If added the both i could run optical from the PAC Pro to the DSP but thats an additional 350 in cost.

Then once i got my interfacing figured out i have a left over JL xd400/4 for the speakers and JL HD750/1 or MTX 1501D for the subs. Most likely i will try to go with 2 12" under the seat. I like the ported foxbox.

Let me know what you guys think and if you have any suggestions or have done anything similiar.

cheers

 

[IxsharpxI]

after thought: or even wiring the front crossover input from the tweeter OEM wires so i can mount the crossovers inside the cab and run one wire to the doors.

 

[88ROOK]

I think if run any type of DSP you're going to have to splice into the OEM wires, once you get it layed out on paper its not that bad. I went for the fosgate DSP1 was pretty straight forward setup and you can run multiple amps off of it. I'm running 2 JL XD700s

 

[TomT]

I had the Hi Energy 3 way system before my current one. I would recommend going fully active front 3 way with the tweeters in the sail panels.

Assuming you’re mounting the amps on the back wall, you’ll be running new wires to each speaker anyway. Might as well do it right the first time instead of splicing into the factory wires. Since you already have most of the gear, you are way ahead of the game.

So, PAC to DSP with at least 9 channels (assuming you use the passive crossovers in the rear) to amps.

 

[IxsharpxI]

I would love to have the 3 way system and i actually thought about it after i posted this. Since the 3.5 hole is there anyway... I think ill be lucky if i can find the HL 70 Mid Range and crossover network to build it from what i have. I looked into some CT Sounds 3 way crossovers and then just find some decent mids and do it that way but its not my favorite idea. I agree the PAC is definitely the way to go for no splicing i just always want the option to go back to stock (and its a point of failure). i found it for closer to 250 so that great and will get me started with the amps ive got until i can save up the money for the DSP and more amps for additional channels. So far i think i can get this system bumping for just the cost of the PAC, 0g power wire, and some speaker adapters

 

[IxsharpxI]

Dang @88ROOK thats crazy the DSP1 is only 269 and the 3sixty.3 is 699? it sounds like cool little device

 

[IxsharpxI]

I found a good deal on a dm-810 that i was thinking about but i failed on step one already... smh these 6x9 to 6.5 adapters suck.. i broke one trying to cut out the whole large enough and on top of that i had to notch it for it to sit flat. Now that it does bolt up.. I dont know where the speaker screws are supposed to have any meat to go into.. they include little wingnut type plates but that seems rattle prone.. I’m not happy with these adapters and not sure there’s any good options

 

[IxsharpxI]

Pretty frusturated at first and ended up getting the first speaker in (ugly but in) but the second speaker went a little better. Used a drum head on a dremel this time instead of a wheel. They might work out but not the best solution still. My Chevy speaker adapters were so Nice

 

[IxsharpxI]

damn it sat on my hands to long and lost the bid for the dm-810

 

[IxsharpxI]

Got all the speakers in and it made a significant difference in sound. Now im getting ready to order my power wire. Im debating between 4 or 0 gauge. In my last truck i ran nearly the same system (xd400/4 and hd750/1 or TE1501D on 4ohm) on 4 gauge and 100 amp fuse. On this one i know im borderline specially with adding another 2 channel. i know im right around the 100-125 amp range unless i use my TE1501D, which is the top for 4 gauge. I dont wanna spend the extra $100 for 0 gauge though I think if i just fuse it carefully and keep an eye on it i will be fine. Not like my amps will be turned up to 100 all the time.

 

[TomT]

I’d do it right the first time. Inadequate power wire can cause fires.

 

[IxsharpxI]

i ended up with knukoncepts oversized 4 gauge..well see how it goes. Anyone with the fox boxs have any trouble running wires underneath the sides or down the middle? I was gonna run power and speakerwires through the holes in the storage part of the seat. Otherwise ill make sure to go down the outsides of the seat

 

[adurm]

Another option if you want to eliminate a weak point in your system... get a portable hi res player with toslink out and send it to the audiocontrol when you get it. I've got an ibasso dx80 that puts out a very flat signal. I doubt the stock head can do that. I do realize the dm810 has rta and can smooth it out. Just a thought.

 

[IxsharpxI]

Had some time today during quarantine to get some work done. So far i made a fuse holder from 1/8" ABS that came out good. It was my first time using this technique. I found a fender bolt and mounted it there out of the way. Next I ran the 4ga wrapped in that awesome braided sleeving, i still need to shrink wrap and finish the ends. Then today i got around to getting the back seat taken out and about 80% of the sound deadener on the back wall. Didn't look like a ton of room behind the seat if the carpet is still in there. I don't think i will keep it and just use 1/2" mdf or abs plastic for a amp rack.. any input on this would be great as well. I saw a great picture floating around this site that im going to try to mimic

also i picked up a helix dsp pro mk2, and director for this build

Thanks in advance

 

[IxsharpxI]

 

[IxsharpxI]

Did some more work tonight making a template for an amp rack out of some simple cardboard. Getting the main shape right and will add a couple inches on the bottom. Then i started laying out my equipment on my amp rack and found a decent layout. Im also wanting to plan for a possible mtx te1501d which is a bit longer. We will get it made out of wood and see what happens. the kicker at this point would have to be lifted to clear the vent. I would rather just replace it with a smaller 2 channel or replace the 2 and 4 channel with a six, but the general amp rack shape will stay the same. I think its as good as it can get to use all of the space. Power distribution is planned for the far right.

 

[TomT]

Here’s my back wall which is about as full as it can get. Maybe it will help with layout ideas.

 

[IxsharpxI]

Got my amp rack cut out and test mounted. Im really happy with the fit and sure, i wish i would have cut a little less in a few places but its a great first shape. The 3 mounts hold it really solid although I think i need to do something to keep to top corners from vibrating against the wall. They flop around a bit. I've thought about trying to find some 1/2 abs instead just cause its already black and i dont have to wrap it. Plus im thinking about cutting out 1/2" blocks to raise the kicker amp(for the vent and to run some 4 ga under it). I layed it out to start getting and idea of the wiring situation. Made me really think again about looking for a six channel. Lots of wires and not a lot of space..except all that blank space on the right. Might move the dsp over there to try to seperate the signal from some power. What do you guys think??

 

[cam101]

You have good quality equipment. I plan on installing a system in mine as well. I also have a Hertz Hi energy comp set. I am going to put the mid bass in the door and tweeter in the space of the 3.5 dash speaker. Going to get hertz coaxes for the rear doors. I wish i could still use my sub but its to deep. So i will changing to either 2 10's or 2 12's. I have my amplifiers already, Arc Audio 600.4 and 1100.1 The only real difference will be i wont use the factory deck i am going aftermarket. The DSP should really help you dial in your system. I look forward to more build pics.

 

[IxsharpxI]

You have good quality equipment. I plan on installing a system in mine as well. I also have a Hertz Hi energy comp set. I am going to put the mid bass in the door and tweeter in the space of the 3.5 dash speaker. Going to get hertz coaxes for the rear doors. I wish i could still use my sub but its to deep. So i will changing to either 2 10's or 2 12's. I have my amplifiers already, Arc Audio 600.4 and 1100.1 The only real difference will be i wont use the factory deck i am going aftermarket. The DSP should really help you dial in your system. I look forward to more build pics.

Thanks alot ill be on the lookout for your build as well. I have the same plan with speaker locations but may upgrade to 3.5s in the dash and move the tweeter at some point. I know what ya mean i wish i could have kept my 2w7s but im thinking w6s or sa-12s. Did you start with the 8.4"?