supercharger or cam/other minor upgrades

[ttthiel]

Debating on throwing a supercharger on my 2010 ramrunner and calling it a day or getting a vararam intake, ported tb, performance cam shaft, ported heads, jba long tubes, and a caraven muffler. The truck is strictly a toy and is beaten on pretty hard. The engine does have 135k miles which makes me worry about the supercharger option right off the bat but any input would be greatly appreciated!

 

[blackbetty14]

Supercharger, more power with no streetability issues. Your going to need tuning no matter what and injectors. The older motor is better for boost as the rings open up with mileage.

 

[ttthiel]

Supercharger, more power with no streetability issues. Your going to need tuning no matter what and injectors. The older motor is better for boost as the rings open up with mileage.

Yes a tuner was a must with either option I go with and would you have a good recomendation on what injectors/supercharger to run? I am kinda liking the torqstorm for the price. I also found a elderbrook in my area for sale for $4k which is cheap as hell. Sadly it does not look like whipple makes a kit for my truck.

 

[blackbetty14]

Whipple definitely does, Matt a Moes runs one and sells them.

I have a torqstorm on a GM LS and it has been great, its perfect for low HP 750hp max ish, and it makes boost pretty early in the RPM. A PD blower like whipple will make off idle boost which is great for the street but the run HOT (high IATs) and its very difficult to run any form of intercooling besides water/****. Centris are easier to run intercooling and I would do a FMIC and a little bit of watermeth to keep IATs down and help with detonation. Since PD blowers make off idle boost they are also harder on parts (rods etc), the lower RPM torq can bend a rod pretty easily.

My Vote is Centri supercharger for efficency and the ability for intercooling options and they are easiler on the motor internals.

INjectors is up to you... for the mopar application its whatever fits the bill but you can't go wrong with DEKA's or BOSCH in the correct flow lb rating for the application. I have a 72lb Bosch, 72lb DEKA and 4 sets of decapped stock LS Truck injectors (flowed 24lb originally, and now flow 74lb) for applications and they all work really well. The decapped injectors cost me $285 for all 4 sets (cleaned and flow matched) which is the price of a used set of Bosch or Deka... so they are hard to beat. I'm sure the stock Rams could be decapped and prob flow alot more than 24lb stock... so decapped will flow ALOT more. FWIW a 72lb injector with boost maxes out around 700-750hp.

 

[ttthiel]

Whipple definitely does, Matt a Moes runs one and sells them.

I have a torqstorm on a GM LS and it has been great, its perfect for low HP 750hp max ish, and it makes boost pretty early in the RPM. A PD blower like whipple will make off idle boost which is great for the street but the run HOT (high IATs) and its very difficult to run any form of intercooling besides water/****. Centris are easier to run intercooling and I would do a FMIC and a little bit of watermeth to keep IATs down and help with detonation. Since PD blowers make off idle boost they are also harder on parts (rods etc), the lower RPM torq can bend a rod pretty easily.

My Vote is Centri supercharger for efficency and the ability for intercooling options and they are easiler on the motor internals.

INjectors is up to you... for the mopar application its whatever fits the bill but you can't go wrong with DEKA's or BOSCH in the correct flow lb rating for the application. I have a 72lb Bosch, 72lb DEKA and 4 sets of decapped stock LS Truck injectors (flowed 24lb originally, and now flow 74lb) for applications and they all work really well. The decapped injectors cost me $285 for all 4 sets (cleaned and flow matched) which is the price of a used set of Bosch or Deka... so they are hard to beat. I'm sure the stock Rams could be decapped and prob flow alot more than 24lb stock... so decapped will flow ALOT more. FWIW a 72lb injector with boost maxes out around 700-750hp.

I cant seem to find a whipple kit for my 2010 I see they have a kit for 13-newer but not mine. If toqstorm had a complete kit it would be a no brainer but now I will have to do my research. I am looking forward to the boosted life lol

 

[Tach_tech]

Whipple doesn’t make a kit for the pre 13 or 6 speed trucks. The 6 speed won’t live with a 2.9L blower at 8ish psi.

 

[ttthiel]

Whipple doesn’t make a kit for the pre 13 or 6 speed trucks. The 6 speed won’t live with a 2.9L blower at 8ish psi.

Well funny story I actually have the 5 speed. I am expecting a full rebuild on that sooner than later anyway but the truck hardly sees 3rd gear. In the dunes I keep it in on and sometimes 2nd. So that is minor to me

 

[ttthiel]

Whipple doesn’t make a kit for the pre 13 or 6 speed trucks. The 6 speed won’t live with a 2.9L blower at 8ish psi.

Well funny story I actually have the 5 speed. I am expecting a full rebuild on that sooner than later anyway but the truck hardly sees 3rd gear. In the dunes I keep it in on and sometimes 2nd. So that is minor to me

 

[Tach_tech]

Well funny story I actually have the 5 speed. I am expecting a full rebuild on that sooner than later anyway but the truck hardly sees 3rd gear. In the dunes I keep it in on and sometimes 2nd. So that is minor to me

The 5 speed and 6 speed are the same, the 6 speed got the extra gear through a programming change.

 

[ttthiel]

The 5 speed and 6 speed are the same, the 6 speed got the extra gear through a programming change.

Oh ok did not know that so thanks for that! Torqstorm is actually about an hour from my house so I’m working with them right now to get some details

 

[ttthiel]

So no one else has any input??? This forum used to be crazy busy. Kinda sad how slow it is getting now.

 

[James OBrien]

Yeah, it's slowed down a bit but I think it's because of summer and folks not having as much keyboard time. Personally, I think it has to do with your long term goal for the truck. I love mine, but it's also a sickness I've gone the route of cam, upgrading springs/lifters, long tubes/true duals with xpipe and mds delete, vararam and all sorts of other small changes with of course a good tuner. My long term goal was to hit 500 rear wheel HP eventually so I'm primed to do the supercharger longer term. Now, this has cost me about as much as a supercharger with probably less HP gains overall. If I were to do it again I'd just do the damn supercharger in the first place! By the time you add it all up, the supercharger will be as much if not a bit cheaper if you're willing to put in the time and do some things yourself. If I did a supercharger now, including the upgraded injectors/fuel pump, I'd probably be at the limits of what the transmission can do and for a daily driver will need to start setting aside transmission money! My advice, go for the supercharger.

 

[ttthiel]

Yeah, it's slowed down a bit but I think it's because of summer and folks not having as much keyboard time. Personally, I think it has to do with your long term goal for the truck. I love mine, but it's also a sickness I've gone the route of cam, upgrading springs/lifters, long tubes/true duals with xpipe and mds delete, vararam and all sorts of other small changes with of course a good tuner. My long term goal was to hit 500 rear wheel HP eventually so I'm primed to do the supercharger longer term. Now, this has cost me about as much as a supercharger with probably less HP gains overall. If I were to do it again I'd just do the damn supercharger in the first place! By the time you add it all up, the supercharger will be as much if not a bit cheaper if you're willing to put in the time and do some things yourself. If I did a supercharger now, including the upgraded injectors/fuel pump, I'd probably be at the limits of what the transmission can do and for a daily driver will need to start setting aside transmission money! My advice, go for the supercharger.

That is true with members not being on as much in the summer but I appreciate the input for sure. Any idea how much horsepower you are at to the wheels as of right now? I just worry about my engine not holding up to 8psi of boost very long but I guess you can't win all the battles you face lol.

 

[Propanedr]

If i could do it all over again i would just go with boost. however i had a wiped cam so i went the route of new cam,lifters,new heads , ati UD pulley, long tube headers etc... new tuner and program. im still trying to finish this project. the money and time i spent on this is about the same as if i would of bought a SC. So if you have the means, get a SC. you could probably have it installed in one weekend and be burning rubber by Monday. also i think there is more HP gained with adding a SC than going the full mod route.

 

[ttthiel]

If i could do it all over again i would just go with boost. however i had a wiped cam so i went the route of new cam,lifters,new heads , ati UD pulley, long tube headers etc... new tuner and program. im still trying to finish this project. the money and time i spent on this is about the same as if i would of bought a SC. So if you have the means, get a SC. you could probably have it installed in one weekend and be burning rubber by Monday. also i think there is more HP gained with adding a SC than going the full mod route.

lol I think I would do the install but I am working with torqstorm and they are only an hour away from my place so I might just have them do the whole thing and not have any headaches with it.

 

[MoparBrent]

Since I don’t know your financial situation I’ll just throw everything out assuming you do lol.

Have you looked into MMX and thought about forged pistons and internals of your engine ontop of doing the cam swap? If you’re going to supercharge it I’d say look into forges internals. MMX specializes in the 5.7 hemi’s and have great products and workmanship.

Another thing would be looking at fastman for a ported TB. With all the work you’re doing to the truck he has solid true bore TB specific to heavily modified trucks

 

[ttthiel]

Since I don’t know your financial situation I’ll just throw everything out assuming you do lol.

Have you looked into MMX and thought about forged pistons and internals of your engine ontop of doing the cam swap? If you’re going to supercharge it I’d say look into forges internals. MMX specializes in the 5.7 hemi’s and have great products and workmanship.

Another thing would be looking at fastman for a ported TB. With all the work you’re doing to the truck he has solid true bore TB specific to heavily modified trucks

My thought was to do the supercharger until something internal breaks. Once that happens then swap to forged internals for sure. I just hate to swap a bunch of parts that are not technically bad yet. I would agree that ported tb is a must. You think fastman is better that moes?

 

[MoparBrent]

My thought was to do the supercharger until something internal breaks. Once that happens then swap to forged internals for sure. I just hate to swap a bunch of parts that are not technically bad yet. I would agree that ported tb is a must. You think fastman is better that moes?

With no disrespect to Moes at all, that’s not what I’m about. His isn’t a true bore TB. Check out fastmans site and you’ll see his work and how he has specific true bore throttle bodies of different sizes depending on how much you’ve modded your truck

 

[Elevated 2013]

All of the tuners that I have talked to and all of the reading that I have done points to a supercharger and dyno tune being the best bang for the buck in the end. You will get more horsepower from it than a cam and heads and spend less doing it. Your only issue will be the block and internals in the end because of the miles on it. I see your point about not replacing any internals just yet since they aren't technically "bad", but if they can't handle the extra pressure from the supercharger, you could end up having to replace the block because a piston decides to go through it instead of the oil pan or destroys a cylinder bad enough to not be repairable. As much as I would hate it if it was my decision, I would consider replacing the pistons/rods and at least bearings for the crank and camshaft for a peace of mind before doing the supercharger.

I'm leaning towards a supercharger or turbo down the road for my 13 1500, but those are the thoughts i'm having now as I have 65000 miles on my 5.7L and I'm worried about the same thing as i've seen pistons exit places that they should not. Just my $.02 and experience.

 

[blackbetty14]

Boost doesn’t kill pistons... detonation and timing does. Leave your stock pistons... worst case is open the gap on the rings a bit. Forged pistons will pop just like stock cast or hyper pistons if you go lean or detonate... they just offer slightly more resistance before they go.

If your smart and I hope u are lol... a good tuner and not getting stupid with the boost your stock engine should be fine at 8psi. Safe timing, adequate fuel and octane and a good form of inter cooling and you will be fine. It’s all about keeping the timing in check depending on boost, fuel and compression. Once timing is good and your running the correct fuel and AFR you just need a form of inter cooling. I personally like A2A bc it’s cheap and easy, but I’ve done A2W when space isn’t available. Then I like to run a small/medium amount of water **** on a progressive controller to help (think of it as a backup). IATs are kept down from the A2A and then the water **** comes and Keeps any possible detonation out of the cylinders while giving you a bump in octane and a nice steam cleaned chamber and exhaust lol.

For the people who think forged is necessary... I run stock hyper/cast pistons in all my 5.3s (stock short blocks means stock ring gaps and pistons/rods and hardware) and I’ve been to 15psi on wiper fluid with an EBC but I normally run 11-12psi but 15psi is just a button push away, this is with a 78/75 billet turbo which IATs are higher than a supercharger. I’ve also run 12psi on a torqstorn centri supercharger with stock pistons and the same type of intercooling. For any given combo my IATs pre eBay A2A are 170+ and after are around 110-120 on a 90*+ day before the water **** kicks on which drops it to 100ish IATs. I’ve run 50/50 mix and wiper fluid which is a 70/30 mix and I prefer the wiper fluid. Running pure **** is more dangerous but you can see massive drops in IAT temps and octane bumps are HUGE! **** is really what cools air charge and pumps octane up, the water is more for detonation control in the chamber and slightly cools air charge.

At 4-8psi I would not even crack the Hemi open. Remember back in the day (80-90s) they didn’t even run tuners or intercooling for anything in the 4-6psi range... that means stock unaltered timing and they just bumped fuel with an FMU. So at 8psi you knock timing 1-2* per psi and run a A2A and your already ahead of the game with the correct 11.5 AFR.