Cam & Heads vs Supercharger vs Nitrous

[MANual_puller]

Good luck with that. You know damn well he cant launch on a 150 shot. He would need a progressive controller which is another $300-$400.

Dude....any cheap delay timer will do(link below is $33). Gives it 2-2.5 sec from WOT initiation then it flips the solenoid. You can run 2 cheap timers/2 solenoids and do the progressive shot easy without an expensive controller.....

Amperite - 12DC.1-60C - Panel Cont 1A@30VDC/0.5A@115VAC Ctrl-V 12DC SPST-NC On Delay Timing Relay - Allied Electronics

 

[sicmadek]

I was spraying my 03 before you knew they put a hemi motor in these trucks. But carry on with recommending $2000 cam swaps to guys for a whopping .2 gain in the 1/4. I remember you saying you would be pissed if you didn't gain at least .3 from a cam swap yet here you are saying it's the best option when you only gained .2. Oh well.

$2000 if i buy it from you lmao. Just keep being a good con artist i mean salesman matt. So basically all youre saying is cam swaps are a waste of money. Very contradicting considering you were pushing the hell out of your cams and heads. I know the real reasons youre pushing nitrous over cams

 

[MANual_puller]

$2000 if i buy it from you lmao. Just keep being a good con artist i mean salesman matt. So basically all youre saying is cam swaps are a waste of money. Very contradicting considering you were pushing the hell out of your cams and heads. I know the real reasons youre pushing nitrous over cams

Sarcasm font[Oh, that makes perfect sense! When he sells both and recommends the cheaper route for the customer it's because he's trying to con him. Got it.]

 

[sicmadek]

Sarcasm font[Oh, that makes perfect sense! When he sells both and recommends the cheaper route for the customer it's because he's trying to con him. Got it.]

He recommends the one that works better and cheaper because his cams are a flop. I bet he even makes more money off of nitrous kits. You people are so blind to the fact that hes a salesman.

 

[Pull Ya]

^^^^^ Just a quick question---Why do you have to start some **** every time Matt says anything or when he gives advise to a member who is looking for help. Christ, I think if he said it was daylight, you'd run outside and see if the sun was up. IMO you can keep your personal problems and history with Matt to yourself and off the board----
Jay

 

[MANual_puller]

He recommends the one that works better and cheaper because his cams are a flop. I bet he even makes more money off of nitrous kits. You people are so blind to the fact that hes a salesman.

Nitrous is going to be the best bang for the buck over Moe's cams, comp cams and Jay's cams.....It's not a track/trailer queen. He wants to drive it on the street. If he's only using the extra power to play at the track the trans will live longer. Sarcasm font[I'm sure a rebuilt transmission is way cheaper in the long run.....by far the best bang for the buck to have the extra power of the super duper greene cam all the time.]

Nothing at all against Jay Greene, the guy knows his stuff and his stuff is good. Moe's/Hemifever's stuff is good too. Switching from one to the other to shave time is literally like shaving a bald guy, you're not going to take much if anything off. If going as fast as possible is that important to you why in the world are you in a truck instead of a car? It clearly cannot be that important.....

 

[Hemi450hp]

Paul, I'm sorry for letting your thread go sideways. My first interest is making sure that everyone's truck runs the best that it can. While we've seen great results from our cams, I think your application would benefit more from the nitrous than any other upgrade.

 

[Wild one]

Are you guys tieing in an rpm activated switch on your kits,if so where are you getting a tach signal from?

 

[vcode70]

Paul, I'm sorry for letting your thread go sideways. My first interest is making sure that everyone's truck runs the best that it can. While we've seen great results from our cams, I think your application would benefit more from the nitrous than any other upgrade.

Thanks Matt. I appreciate all the help over the past year and a half. Hopefully we'll have her in the 12s with this setup before long, and then from there, who knows!

 

[Hemi450hp]

Are you guys tieing in an rpm activated switch on your kits,if so where are you getting a tach signal from?

My progressive controller is set on a timer, not by rpm. All the standard nitrous kits come with a tps switch though so the nitrous only activates at wot. It's controlled by a small micro switch that you mount under the gas pedal so that it only activates with the pedal pressed all the way down.

 

[sicmadek]

^^^^^ Just a quick question---Why do you have to start some **** every time Matt says anything or when he gives advise to a member who is looking for help. Christ, I think if he said it was daylight, you'd run outside and see if the sun was up. IMO you can keep your personal problems and history with Matt to yourself and off the board----
Jay

Its my civil duty

 

[Wild one]

My progressive controller is set on a timer, not by rpm. All the standard nitrous kits come with a tps switch though so the nitrous only activates at wot. It's controlled by a small micro switch that you mount under the gas pedal so that it only activates with the pedal pressed all the way down.

I ordered this Zex kit Matt and it ties into the TPS signal wire for WOT activation,but I also ordered their T/C (traction control) switch and it uses a tach signal for rpm activation.I've been looking at tying into an injector for the tach signal.

https://www.rpmoutlet.com/dodgetran.htm


https://www.rpmoutlet.com/zex-traction-control-window-switch-82085.htm

 

[Paluby]

Hmm, I vote for you to do it all haha.

 

[vcode70]

If you only go to the track a few times a year I would recommend going with nitrous. The biggest benefit of nitrous is it's a 'stock' truck all the time with an extra hp boost at WOT only and the 545/65rfe holds WOT power just fine, as long as you don't upshift into 4th gear (130mph) or downshift through 4th gear at WOT. Nitrous is the cheapest power adder but it's only on when you activate it and it's illegal to use on the street.


Superchargers are fun for power all the time rather than just nitrous but you have to plan for a trans in the future.


Heads/cam will give you good gains but not as much as a blower or nitrous will; it's half the cost of a blower system though.






Slicks are hard on the drivetrain, I hope you have a driveshaft loop to protect your truck if a u-joint fails. As for the trans, I highly recommend L&M, Mike's trans has been holding my power for 3 years now with no issues. Jerry with True Street Performance has also built some 545/65s that hold power as well. The 4th gear is still the weak point but if you can drive according to that weakness it survives the occasional 4th gear shift.

Thanks for the help, I appreciate it! Ya, I put a hoop on her before I ever made it to the track. I've seen them do some nasty things! Thanks again.

 

[Booms]

Its my civil duty

CIVIC : It's Your civic duty....

 

[charonblk07]

Thanks for the help, I appreciate it! Ya, I put a hoop on her before I ever made it to the track. I've seen them do some nasty things! Thanks again.

Glad to hear it, I'm still not running one on mine yet so I'm a bit of a hypocrite but I don't run slicks. If you need any other info about the trans just ask, I'm one of the few that hasn't gone through multiple 5/6 speed transmissions and I've been making a good chunk of power for a while now.

You will have to swap those gears out for 3.92 or 4.10 if you go forced induction (nitrous/supercharger/turbo). Running nitrous the right way isnt as cheap as you think, just ask thad lol. You can buy a cam from jay greene for less money and have nice gains. Heads are not worth the money unless you can find someone locally that can port them right for less than $1000. Then you would need the cam specs to match the heads.

I ran my nitrous kit for years on 2 different trucks (one had 4.56s) and I never had to change gears so I can't imagine where you seem to think it's a requirement to do that. A 3200 stall converter and a 2800 stall converter respectively was used but I never had to do a gear swap and I was still passing the line at the top of 3rd at 6000 rpm with the 545rfe and a 105mph trap. A basic nitrous kit will get you down the track just fine and I've run a straight 150 and 175 shot respectively, you don't NEED all the other stuff, but it does make it safer and more consistent. A purge, bottle heater, progressive switch, fuel pressure cutoff, and any other accessories are great to have but not required. Add every nitrous accessory and you're now at $2000 and ~$100/refill. That's still less than the starting price of a ported head/cam swap with no supporting mods or upgrades with an average gain of 75hp.

I'm actually swapping in a set of 4.56s with the new blower package for more torque transfer; I'm getting away from the top speed build and going for a fun around town build with boost, nitrous, and water ****.

He has full bolt ons and 4.56s. Nitrous will not knock a full second off. You swore that your cam would knock .40 off my time. Why the sudden change?

A 150 shot took a full second (0.94) off my quad cab 4wd's times even with cam, heads, full bolt-ons, converter, and 4.56 gears in my '07 with the stock 545rfe running 28" drag radials. It was a dead shot too, all of it off the line, no progressive controller.

I would not want to try nitrous with 4.56s.

You should try it, it's fun, but since you've never done it doesn't mean that it can't be done or that there's any reason he can't. Plenty of trucks run nitrous and higher ratio rear ends.

He recommends the one that works better and cheaper because his cams are a flop. I bet he even makes more money off of nitrous kits. You people are so blind to the fact that hes a salesman.

I'm not a salesman for any company and I still recommended nitrous for this guy. I don't run a cam from either Matt or Jay and won't have Jay or Sean tune my truck, if anything, at this point to avoid the BS since both would do well by me if I asked. The reliability of an everyday driver with stock power around town with an extra 150hp for track days is hard to beat, especially with the 5/6 speed trans which you aren't factoring a replacement cost into the head/cam swap cost. The trans holds a 150 shot at WOT just fine, but an extra 70hp around town is where things go wrong if you don't drive it properly.

 

[BigSloth]

Another vote for nitrous here. It's the most cost effective way.

And before anyone remarks about "doing it right", that is doing it right. Even with the kit itself($440), the NOS mini progressive controller($250), the dynotune bottle warmer with pressure switch($100), a blow down tube since it's mounted in-cab($30), and a wideband to monitor everything ($200), I'm still right at $1,000 bucks total investment. No cam/heads combo around will give you the potential for 200 additional HP. My truck, a crew cab 8 speed, will hold a 150 shot off the line on a drag radial and a track with ****** prep.

 

[BigSloth]

I should add that the difference on an 1/8 mile track for me with intake /tune/exhaust /radials vs adding a 150 shot on a progressive controller is 0.95 seconds. On an 1/8.

 

[sicmadek]

Glad to hear it, I'm still not running one on mine yet so I'm a bit of a hypocrite but I don't run slicks. If you need any other info about the trans just ask, I'm one of the few that hasn't gone through multiple 5/6 speed transmissions and I've been making a good chunk of power for a while now.





I ran my nitrous kit for years on 2 different trucks (one had 4.56s) and I never had to change gears so I can't imagine where you seem to think it's a requirement to do that. A 3200 stall converter and a 2800 stall converter respectively was used but I never had to do a gear swap and I was still passing the line at the top of 3rd at 6000 rpm with the 545rfe and a 105mph trap. A basic nitrous kit will get you down the track just fine and I've run a straight 150 and 175 shot respectively, you don't NEED all the other stuff, but it does make it safer and more consistent. A purge, bottle heater, progressive switch, fuel pressure cutoff, and any other accessories are great to have but not required. Add every nitrous accessory and you're now at $2000 and ~$100/refill. That's still less than the starting price of a ported head/cam swap with no supporting mods or upgrades with an average gain of 75hp.

I'm actually swapping in a set of 4.56s with the new blower package for more torque transfer; I'm getting away from the top speed build and going for a fun around town build with boost, nitrous, and water ****.



A 150 shot took a full second (0.94) off my quad cab 4wd's times even with cam, heads, full bolt-ons, converter, and 4.56 gears in my '07 with the stock 545rfe running 28" drag radials. It was a dead shot too, all of it off the line, no progressive controller.



You should try it, it's fun, but since you've never done it doesn't mean that it can't be done or that there's any reason he can't. Plenty of trucks run nitrous and higher ratio rear ends.



I'm not a salesman for any company and I still recommended nitrous for this guy. I don't run a cam from either Matt or Jay and won't have Jay or Sean tune my truck, if anything, at this point to avoid the BS since both would do well by me if I asked. The reliability of an everyday driver with stock power around town with an extra 150hp for track days is hard to beat, especially with the 5/6 speed trans which you aren't factoring a replacement cost into the head/cam swap cost. The trans holds a 150 shot at WOT just fine, but an extra 70hp around town is where things go wrong if you don't drive it properly.

Have you ever ran yours at the track or do you plan to? Just curious because i know you make a lot of power.

 

[charonblk07]

Have you ever ran yours at the track or do you plan to? Just curious because i know you make a lot of power.

I plan to at some point this summer, the nearest track is 3 hours drive which just makes it a pain to get to on a Friday evening which is the only open drag event. I normally don't care about the drag strip since I had mine built for top speed, handling, and mostly just how I like to drive; that's starting to change now with the new blower setup and why the gear change will happen in a month or so.