suspension problems after lowering

[expressreg]

so i have a 2017 Ram Rt and decided to just level the truck with the front so i got some maxtrac rear drop springs that are 3inches and it lowered it only 2 inches and i refreshened all my shocks with billsteins 4100, and the truck rides really rough any little grove on the street or bug pothole the steering automatically follows it, then going 60-80mph on the freeway it has intense body roll, it never did this in stock height, anyone got any solutions?

I just installed a hellwig rear sway bar it helped a little but still feels bad and i ordered some rear belltech nitro shocks for the lowering
(Just saw how my spring was installed, i believe the installer didnt do a correct job…)

 

[Bigskyroadglide]

Three things

https://ihcsuspension.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/0918-CUT-KIT-INSTRUCTIONS.pdf

Look at picture 32, see if the springs you installed are clocked correctly, I know you didn't do an ihc kit but you still need to clock the springs. Yes it makes a difference. Also if you look at the belltech springs, they co.e with a trac bar relocation bracket to keep your track bar aligned and level

2, stock 4600s are ok, if you installed stock extenders but if you didn't, they could allow the springs to fall out due to extended travel. Change to a different shock, qa1s, vikings or even the bell techs you mentioned, however bell tech not my first choice.

3. I know you didn't mess with the front but did you get the truck re aligned. Your description of chasing road grooves usually occurs when alignment has been altered.

Last, are the max Trax springs progressive springs or standard springs. If they are standard then it will ride more firm, ie rough. If they are progressive then see item 1.

I looked online at the photos on the 3in lowering spring, they appear to be standard springs, ie no progressive, they will ride more firm. A progressive spring has tighter coil winding at the top than the bottom. See photo 3 & 4

I hope this helps.

PS, truck still looks too high in the front IMHO.

1st photo ground force 2/3. 285/45/22
Second photo ihc 6/4. 285/45/22 back 285/40/22 front.

Same truck

 

[expressreg]

Three things

https://ihcsuspension.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/0918-CUT-KIT-INSTRUCTIONS.pdf

Look at picture 32, see if the springs you installed are clocked correctly, I know you didn't do an ihc kit but you still need to clock the springs. Yes it makes a difference. Also if you look at the belltech springs, they co.e with a trac bar relocation bracket to keep your track bar aligned and level

2, stock 4600s are ok, if you installed stock extenders but if you didn't, they could allow the springs to fall out due to extended travel. Change to a different shock, qa1s, vikings or even the bell techs you mentioned, however bell tech not my first choice.

3. I know you didn't mess with the front but did you get the truck re aligned. Your description of chasing road grooves usually occurs when alignment has been altered.

Last, are the max Trax springs progressive springs or standard springs. If they are standard then it will ride more firm, ie rough. If they are progressive then see item 1.

I looked online at the photos on the 3in lowering spring, they appear to be standard springs, ie no progressive, they will ride more firm. A progressive spring has tighter coil winding at the top than the bottom. See photo 3 & 4

I hope this helps.

PS, truck still looks too high in the front IMHO.

1st photo ground force 2/3. 285/45/22
Second photo ihc 6/4. 285/45/22 back 285/40/22 front.

Same truck

what shocks you recommend? i was just going to slap on the belltech ones because its the only brand i know

yes i got it aligned right after the installation but that was 7months ago. and the steering feels loose at times as well, i did recently replaced sway bar bushings and end links and my track bar so i need a new alignment.

i believe they are standard i have the sku of it on the picture below, but if thats the case then its better if i invest on quality springs and shocks if im already going all out.

I also forgot to mention im running 305/45/22 on all 4 so maybe thats something that causes the problem as well

Sick Rt

 

[Bigskyroadglide]

I'd look into qa1s or viking double adjustable

Qa1s is probably my choice

Tire size should not matter as long as they do not rub.

The maxtrac springs should work but if you are unhappy with the ride, the belltech springs are widely available and a direct drop in, but they are a 4 inch drop. Belltech springs are progressive so they ride soft.

If your trav bar is not level, I'd start there, the relocation bracket is inexpensive or you can just re drill the hole to level it.

I've had 3 different sets of shocks on mine. The qa1s ride the best

 

[expressreg]

I'd look into qa1s or viking double adjustable

Qa1s is probably my choice

Tire size should not matter as long as they do not rub.

The maxtrac springs should work but if you are unhappy with the ride, the belltech springs are widely available and a direct drop in, but they are a 4 inch drop. Belltech springs are progressive so they ride soft.

If your trav bar is not level, I'd start there, the relocation bracket is inexpensive or you can just re drill the hole to level it.

I've had 3 different sets of shocks on mine. The qa1s ride the best

the trac bar i didnt think i would need a relocation for it since im not low enough but ill get that order asap

the shocks the belltechs just arrived ill see how they ride, and if i put in 4inch springs i might as well do a 2/4 drop at that point but theres not many places that i know that people align lowered trucks

ill check my spring this weekend and see if the guy who installed it clocked it in

 

[Bigskyroadglide]

The key to alignment on a two inch drop is to cut 3/8 of an inch off the thread portion of the inner tie rod, both sides, where the outer portion threads on. Then you don't run out of adjustment. A grinder or a reciprocating saw works quickly, just use the nut as a guide then fix the threads afterwards so you can thread the outer tie rod back on.

 

[expressreg]

The key to alignment on a two inch drop is to cut 3/8 of an inch off the thread portion of the inner tie rod, both sides, where the outer portion threads on. Then you don't run out of adjustment. A grinder or a reciprocating saw works quickly, just use the nut as a guide then fix the threads afterwards so you can thread the outer tie rod back on.

so i checked my springs while i was installing the shocks and i noticed the driver is a little off centered, i test drover it with the new shocks and springs like that still (no alignment) snd it absorbs bumps better but it cant go pass 70mph without the insane body roll i get still, so im going to get the springs checked today and will inform how it drives @Bigskyroadglide

 

[Bigskyroadglide]

If they are tilted and not straight up and down your will get some body roll.

You may need to look into the relocation bracket or re drilling your trac bar hole to get it straight.

How many miles on the unit

 

[Wild one]

so i checked my springs while i was installing the shocks and i noticed the driver is a little off centered, i test drover it with the new shocks and springs like that still (no alignment) snd it absorbs bumps better but it cant go pass 70mph without the insane body roll i get still, so im going to get the springs checked today and will inform how it drives @Bigskyroadglide

You need the relocation brackets for the locating arms,as that'll bring the rear suspension geometery back closer to factory.The arms will try to steer the rearend as they face uphill when you lower the trucks,and you need them closer to parrellel to counter that effect.
Look at my rear end,you can see the Illicit brackets move the arms down,and if you look close you can see how i moved the trackbar up to where it runs parrellel with the diff,by moving the locating holes up on the pass side frame bracket.

 

[expressreg]

If they are tilted and not straight up and down your will get some body roll.

You may need to look into the relocation bracket or re drilling your trac bar hole to get it straight.

How many miles on the unit

so tracbar relocation is necessary?
i replaced the trac bar but ill get the relocation bracket

it only has 84k miles

 

[expressreg]

You need the relocation brackets for the locating arms,as that'll bring the rear suspension geometery back closer to factory.The arms will try to steer the rearend as they face uphill when you lower the trucks,and you need them closer to parrellel to counter that effect.
Look at my rear end,you can see the Illicit brackets move the arms down,and if you look close you can see how i moved the trackbar up to where it runs parrellel with the diff,by moving the locating holes up on the pass side frame bracket.

what drop do you have?

i have only 3 inch rear drop on the rear front suspension is stock, do you have ti relocate the rear arms even if its just a “level” ?

 

[Bigskyroadglide]

Yes you need to fix the rear geometry. The trac bar needs to be parallel to the diff and the ground

 

[Wild one]

what drop do you have?

i have only 3 inch rear drop on the rear front suspension is stock, do you have ti relocate the rear arms even if its just a “level” ?

If your truck is feeling weird in the rear end you need the relocation brackets. Some trucks can get away without the brackets and some trucks need them,seems to be no ryhm or reason to why though.
My truck was dead stable to 155mph with the relocation brackets and redrilled track bar mounting hole,and it was about 3.5" lower in the rear,with cut down R/T springs

 

[expressreg]

Yes you need to fix the rear geometry. The trac bar needs to be parallel to the diff and the ground

would it be this one on the picture below?
and if you dont mind explaining to me how would this help or fix the rear geometry?

 

[Bigskyroadglide]

That's the bracket, It allows the track bar to be level since you dropped the rear by putting in shorter springs.

A track bar relocation bracket is an aftermarket suspension component that lifts or lowers the mounting point of the track bar on a vehicle. Its primary purpose is to correct the steering and suspension geometry, reducing axle shift, eliminating bump steer, and improving handling by returning the track bar to a parallel position with the axle.

Does that help.

 

[Wild one]

would it be this one on the picture below?
and if you dont mind explaining to me how would this help or fix the rear geometry?

That's just the trackbar bracket,it doesn't do much to counter the rear end issues that come up by lowering a 4 link rear suspension,you need the relocation brackets for the locating arms that are on the front of the diff.The trackbar you can get away with redrilling the mounting hole on the frame side,look at my pics close and you can see how i moved the bar up by redrilling the hole.
This pic shows the relocation brackets for the locating arms,those are the ones you want,they correct the rear suspension geometery and will make your truck drive better,everything else is just a band-aid fix.

 

[Wild one]

CUT KIT INSTALLATION – MUST READ CUT KIT installation must be performed while the rear suspension is unloaded. Safety Reminder: Proper use of safety equipment and eye/face/hand protection is absolutely necessary when performing the following procedures! Check the differential to be sure that all lines, electrical wiring, control cables and other components are cleared from this area to avoid damaging them in the following steps. Be sure to wear proper safety protection when using power tools! DO NOT create sparks near flammable or explosive materials. Be careful when cutting the differential mounts. DO NOT remove any material from the differential that is not shown/described here. Be careful not to damage any lines or other components. Avoid creating any sharp corners or other defects that may cause unnecessary stress-concentrated areas in the differential. Avoid overheating differential. Safety Recommendation: Due to the proximity of fuel tank to this area, we DO NOT recommend using a flame-cutting torch or plasma cutter when performing these operations. 12. Mark differential where you will need to cut. Lower the Differential as much as possible and cut where sparks aim away from fuel tank. Continue to cut top differential bracket off. Refer to pic CUT upper DIFF mount MOUNT REMOVED 13. Cut upper trailing arm mount OFF differential. Refer to picture CUT upper trailing arm mount Upper trailing arm mount REMOVED 14. After cutting grind surfaces down to give clean look and spray paint to prevent surface rusting. Refer to pic GRIND surface clean and spray paint to 15. Cut off rear bump stops and spray paint to prevent rusting. Refer to pic 16. 4 link relocation brackets are directional. Install 4 link relocation brackets. DO NOT TIGHTEN!!! 17. BOTH DRIVER AND PASSENGER SIDE MUST BE DONE AT SAME TIME!! REMOVE bump stops completely Install Driver side and hardware DO NOT TIGHTEN Line up bracket cut with diff flare DO NOT TIGHTEN YET Crush sleeve 18. Install UPPER trailing arm to 4 link bracket FIRST! Then shift axle forward and attach to frame side. 19. DO NOT TIGHTEN ANYTHING YET!!Refer to pic 20. NOTE: upper trailing arm is at angle. Failure to follow these steps will lead to difficulty of installation. Install upper trailing arm to DIFF bracket first. This must be done on DRIVER and PASS side at same time!! Shift rear DIFF forward and install upper trailing arm to frame side. This must be done on PASS and DRIVER side at same time. 21. Install LOWER trailing arm to diff side and frame side. Refer to pic Install Lower trailing arms- DO NOT TIGHTEN YET 22. Clamp rear 4 link relocation bracket and mark. Refer to pics Rear 4 link bracket should be on. This GAP is normal DO NOT TIGHTEN YET 23. Mark rear holes and drill. Refer to pics Mark your holes With C clamp, clamp brackets Drill your 7/16 holes 24. Install 7/16 hardware and TORQUE 52 FT-LBS Install 7/16 hardware Torque 52Ft-LBS IHC rear Lowering springs are 4” out of the box. Customer will need to trim to size. 25. NOTE: IHC rear drop springs are progressive 4” drop springs that are trim to size. 26. NOTE: TAKE BEFORE AND AFTER MEASUREMENTS 27. NOTE: IHC SUSPENSION RECOMMEND TRIMMING 1 DRIVER/ 2 PASSENGER TO COMPENSATE FOR FUEL TANK. 28. Every 1 full turn you trim from TOP side lowers trucks 3⁄4 to 1”. 29. 30. 31. 5” Drop - Trim 1 full turn top side 6” Drop - Trim 2 full turn top

 

[Wild one]

Big already posted these,but scroll down till you get to the Cut Kit part,that's what you want if you want the truck to drive like stock.

https://ihcsuspension.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/0918-CUT-KIT-INSTRUCTIONS.pdf

 

[expressreg]

That's just the trackbar bracket,it doesn't do much to counter the rear end issues that come up by lowering a 4 link rear suspension,you need the relocation brackets for the locating arms that are on the front of the diff.The trackbar you can get away with redrilling the mounting hole on the frame side,look at my pics close and you can see how i moved the bar up by redrilling the hole.
This pic shows the relocation brackets for the locating arms,those are the ones you want,they correct the rear suspension geometery and will make your truck drive better,everything else is just a band-aid fix.

what relocation bracket for the arms did you use?
so if i just do the arms and the bar relocation brackets would the body roll be eliminated? it drives normal other then going 70mph + and then it starts having insane body roll, fells as if the truck is going to flip

 

[Wild one]

what relocation bracket for the arms did you use?
so if i just do the arms and the bar relocation brackets would the body roll be eliminated? it drives normal other then going 70mph + and then it starts having insane body roll, fells as if the truck is going to flip

Mine are the early Illicit relocation brackets,they aren't available anymore,but IHC's brackets are very similiar. If you do the relocation brackets for the diffs locating arms,and relocate your trackbar so it's level with the diff,your truck will drive just like stock.Plus the locating arm brackets will move the diff back to where it's centered in the wheel well. If you look at Bigs pictures in post #2 you can see his diff is pulled closer to the front of the wheelwell,which is a by product of lowering a 4th gen. Look at how my rear tires sit in the wheel well,they're virtually dead center in the wheel well.Go look close at your rear tires as odds are they'll be pulled towards the front of the wheel well