Synthetic Oil

[crackerjack1957]

Anyone know if quaker state dropped the ultimate durability name? Walmart only had the full synthetic and when looking at their product site i only find full synthetic.
Past 2 oil changes ive been using 15oz lubegard and qsud 0w20, have 4k on oil now and wanna change it before a 2k trip next week. Could prolly get away with not changing it though!

Just wanted to let you know that Quaker State Full Synthetic is better than the Quaker State Ultimate Durability Synthetic.
I make sure I pickup the right bottle at WallyWorld.
I am testing this in my 2014 Jeep Cherokee 3.2 & well pleased with.
Was trying to make this info available but someone knows more than others & could not get the point across.

 

[Cableman]

Just wanted to let you know that Quaker State Full Synthetic is better than the Quaker State Ultimate Durability Synthetic.
I make sure I pickup the right bottle at WallyWorld.
I am testing this in my 2014 Jeep Cherokee 3.2 & well pleased with.
Was trying to make this info available but someone knows more than others & could not get the point across.

Yes thanks, i read that, cool deal. My truck is quiet and im adding lubegard anyway! I keep switching filters, 1st the bigger rp, then the srt and next fram ultra, prolly pretty much the same hopefully. The srt filter did look well made.

 

[Rod Knock]

Yes thanks, i read that, cool deal. My truck is quiet and im adding lubegard anyway! I keep switching filters, 1st the bigger rp, then the srt and next fram ultra, prolly pretty much the same hopefully. The srt filter did look well made.

I just dumped a 15oz of Lubegard in my 2016 RAM 1500 5.7 HEMI as well. No tick, but it's not the best build year. I gave Castrol EDGE 0W-40 a try, and the track sat for over a week, and it taped when I started it up. I never had that back when I ran Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 with Lubegard. I might bite the bullet on cost and just put Red Line in there. Quaker State Full Synthetic replaced Ultimate Durability in their lineup when they went from API SN+ to API SP. I am sorry that I didn't convey my thoughts better.

Just wanted to let you know that Quaker State Full Synthetic is better than the Quaker State Ultimate Durability Synthetic.
I make sure I pickup the right bottle at WallyWorld.
I am testing this in my 2014 Jeep Cherokee 3.2 & well pleased with.
Was trying to make this info available but someone knows more than others & could not get the point across.

Thanks for setting me straight. There is a lot I don't know and many things I experiment with and I usually share what I learn here. No hard feelings, okay?

 

[Burla]

Yeah lubegard is good stuff, I'm not sure why any "oil" guy would hate it, but whatever on that deal. This paragraph says it all, it isn't what is in biotech that makes it great, it is what isn't in it that does. Those other additives are snake oil, lubegard is just good stuff already in your oil.

There is a need for improved oil additives for protection and mileage in view of the rapid technological changes in modern engine design. LUBEGARD provides a concentrated package that fulfills these deficiencies (without adding ZDDP, Chlorine, inappropriate sludge building additives like PTFE or solid lubricants such as Teflon®, graphite or molybdenum disulphide.)

If that doesn't fit the hemi I'm not sure what does. VVT started in 2009 or close, and that has been the birth of modern hemi tick. You add that to the fact modern oils are in lubgard's words deficient, then lubegard is the perfect additive. There is good reason why it kills hemi tick at such a high rate. But it goes beyond that, not only does it kill tick, but you don't have to worry about side effects as you do with teflon or mos2 or other. Lubegard is the non snake oil additive, maybe the only one, not sure about that. I certainly hope there are others.

 

[Cableman]

I just dumped a 15oz of Lubegard in my 2016 RAM 1500 5.7 HEMI as well. No tick, but it's not the best build year. I gave Castrol EDGE 0W-40 a try, and the track sat for over a week, and it taped when I started it up. I never had that back when I ran Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 with Lubegard. I might bite the bullet on cost and just put Red Line in there. Quaker State Full Synthetic replaced Ultimate Durability in their lineup when they went from API SN+ to API SP. I am sorry that I didn't convey my thoughts better.

If i start it cold and shut it down right away without a ride it will tap quick once i re start it in an hour or so, it does this less since lg and quaker state.

 

[crackerjack1957]

If i start it cold and shut it down right away without a ride it will tap quick once i re start it in an hour or so, it does this less since lg and quaker state.

How many ounces of Lubegard you use?
Try getting oil/lube up to 7.5-8 quarts total if you haven't already tried.

 

[Cableman]

How many ounces of Lubegard you use?
Try getting oil/lube up to 7.5-8 quarts total if you haven't already tried.

15oz, but i used a hair less oil

 

[MADDOG]

The next member that posts a personal attack on anyone in this thread will be banned from this forum for seven (7) days.

You are advised to remain civil and keep your posted content on topic.

 

[crackerjack1957]

15oz, but i used a hair less oil

Give it a try, it want hurt anything, most cases it helps oil pump hold oil after engine is off.
Remember reading threads of the ones that parked on inclines that complained of noise?

Had 1/2 quart of the older QUD

 

[Hemi395]

Give it a try, it want hurt anything, most cases it helps oil pump hold oil after engine is off.

Had 1/2 quart of the older QUD

View attachment 466625View attachment 466626

Sigh. I really liked this oil...

 

[Rod Knock]

If i start it cold and shut it down right away without a ride it will tap quick once i re start it in an hour or so, it does this less since lg and quaker state.

Yeah, I couldn't leave good enough alone in pursuit of "better." I had a very good experience with Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 (7.5 quarts + 22.5oz of Lubegard Biotech). @Burla told me last year that I could run 8 quarts of oil in the HEMI and I ran with it. He gave me the obligatory disclaimer that he doesn't advise anyone else to do it and that he only runs 8 quarts in his truck, and I appreciated that. Nonetheless, 8 quarts worked fine. I could leave the truck turned off for a couple of weeks no ticks or taps. This might sound crazy, but the HEMI doesn't need slick oil. It needs sticky and slick oil if that makes sense. @HEMIMANN may be able to explain it better. I don't think that Castrol EDGE Euro 0W-40 is ideal for the HEMI. It works, but I'm certain it won't cure any ticks.

Give it a try, it want hurt anything, most cases it helps oil pump hold oil after engine is off.

Had 1/2 quart of the older QUD

View attachment 466625View attachment 466626

It seems that many people are better informed than expected in my area. At two Walmart locations, I see the SN+ rated Quaker State collecting dust. I wanted to get some QS Euro 5W-40 for my wife's Santa Fe 3.3L, but all that was leftover were dusty jugs of the QSUD Euro 5W-40 SN+. The QS Euro 5W-40 is the only API SP euro oil that you can buy. Everything else that's a 5W-40 is SN-rated. Even more interesting, the QS Euro 5W-40 can also be used in the 3.0L Turbo EcoDiesel. I also saw an entire shelf of QSUD 5W-20 collecting dust, while the new QSFS was almost gone.

 

[Cableman]

I use 0w20 quaker state also, not sure if thats any better or worse then 5w20.

 

[crackerjack1957]

Thanks for setting me straight. There is a lot I don't know and many things I experiment with and I usually share what I learn here. No hard feelings, okay?

No hard feelings here........was just trying to show Cableman there was a difference.
I'm not always right but I try.......LoL

 

[Travis8352]

Yeah, I couldn't leave good enough alone in pursuit of "better." I had a very good experience with Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 (7.5 quarts + 22.5oz of Lubegard Biotech). @Burla told me last year that I could run 8 quarts of oil in the HEMI and I ran with it. He gave me the obligatory disclaimer that he doesn't advise anyone else to do it and that he only runs 8 quarts in his truck, and I appreciated that. Nonetheless, 8 quarts worked fine. I could leave the truck turned off for a couple of weeks no ticks or taps. This might sound crazy, but the HEMI doesn't need slick oil. It needs sticky and slick oil if that makes sense. @HEMIMANN may be able to explain it better. I don't think that Castrol EDGE Euro 0W-40 is ideal for the HEMI. It works, but I'm certain it won't cure any ticks.



It seems that many people are better informed than expected in my area. At two Walmart locations, I see the SN+ rated Quaker State collecting dust. I wanted to get some QS Euro 5W-40 for my wife's Santa Fe 3.3L, but all that was leftover were dusty jugs of the QSUD Euro 5W-40 SN+. The QS Euro 5W-40 is the only API SP euro oil that you can buy. Everything else that's a 5W-40 is SN-rated. Even more interesting, the QS Euro 5W-40 can also be used in the 3.0L Turbo EcoDiesel. I also saw an entire shelf of QSUD 5W-20 collecting dust, while the new QSFS was almost gone.

I believe it needs ester base oils more than anything. What are the known oils that contain esters? From my memory its motul 300v, redline, mobil 1 euro/esp, and driven. What about magnatec? What is castrols "intelligent molecules"? Is it ester as well?

 

[crackerjack1957]

I use 0w20 quaker state also, not sure if thats any better or worse then 5w20.

Why 0w-20 in the summer?
5w-30 in all my vehicles.....2 Honda Civics, Jeep Cherokee, S10, Ram 1500
Year round but it hardly ever gets below 20 degrees in the winter here.

 

[Cableman]

Why 0w-20 in the summer?
5w-30 in all my vehicles.....2 Honda Civics, Jeep Cherokee, S10, Ram 1500
Year round but it hardly ever gets below 20 degrees in the winter here.

Well i did it for winter and figured it would help with that tick after a quick start or week of sitting. I wouldn't be changing my oil right now and would prolly be hitting 5k or 5500 around November which is a year since oil change, but i have a 960 mile trip one way coming up in a week so i just bought the same 0w20.
Should i just stay with 5w20? Only difference is start up correct?

 

[HEMIMANN]

If you're going to use your truck for hauling and towing, definitely 5W-30. If your ambient (outside air temp) doesn't dip much below 40 degrees F at night, you're good.

If you expect colder ambients and either store your truck out in it or while otherwise out on errands with engine off, then switch to 0W-30 for that season. Up here in MN it's easy......5W-30 May-Oct, 0W-30 Nov-Apr.

 

[Cableman]

If you're going to use your truck for hauling and towing, definitely 5W-30. If your ambient (outside air temp) doesn't dip much below 40 degrees F at night, you're good.

If you expect colder ambients and either store your truck out in it or while otherwise out on errands with engine off, then switch to 0W-30 for that season. Up here in MN it's easy......5W-30 May-Oct, 0W-30 Nov-Apr.

Why not just 0w30 year round then?
What if i stay with a 20w, do i go with what it calls for at 5w20? And i do use lubegard and dont have a warm tic

 

[crackerjack1957]

Well i did it for winter and figured it would help with that tick after a quick start or week of sitting. I wouldn't be changing my oil right now and would prolly be hitting 5k or 5500 around November which is a year since oil change, but i have a 960 mile trip one way coming up in a week so i just bought the same 0w20.
Should i just stay with 5w20? Only difference is start up correct?

Yes you are correct.......very little viscosity difference in the 2
5w-30 is where the viscosity jumps for added wear protection in the warmer climates

https://www.quakerstate.com/en_us/p...lZGFwcF8xNTA1MjIyOTUuc3RhdGljL2lmcmFtZS5odG1s

5w-30

https://www.shell-livedocs.com/data/published/en-US/ae058d71-95c6-4253-a37a-7b5a505eefeb.pdf

5w-20

https://www.shell-livedocs.com/data/published/en-US/200e9aed-e8ec-4bb2-b765-a438dbc3eb46.pdf

0w-20

https://www.shell-livedocs.com/data/published/en-US/34799e64-e633-4ef3-ae47-646fafc0456b.pdf

 

[HEMIMANN]

Why not just 0w30 year round then?
What if i stay with a 20w, do i go with what it calls for at 5w20? And i do use lubegard and dont have a warm tic

Well, I'm glad you asked!

In one of my patented technical rants, I described the difference in properties and benefits. Long story short for you, the things the chemists have to do to pour depress viscosity to a 0W are not good for high temperature high shear loads, nor for viscosity stability. You don't want to run any 0W long and hard in summer.

Some will say their secret recipe 0W is as shear stable as any 5W. I say show me the numbers. None of the HTHS or NOACK numbers I was able to dig up say so. For instance - even a custom race oil like Red Line had their volatility go up 50% between 5W-30 to 0W-30, with HTHS dropping from mid 3's to high 2's.