Synthetic Oil

[HEMIMANN]

Funny enough that ship is actually using lubricants custom blended by High Performance Lubricants!

How do you know this?

 

[MontanaHandyman]

46 bucks a gallon 0w30 redline.

Thanks for the heads up...I ordered 2.
I gotta kick out of Amazon saying it doesn't fit my engine tho...lol!

 

[HEMIMANN]

Thanks for the heads up...I ordered 2.
I gotta kick out of Amazon saying it doesn't fit my engine tho...lol!

Retail outlets will only show you the precise recommendation from the vehicle maker - no options. Their lawyers enforce this, I presume.

 

[MontanaHandyman]

Retail outlets will only show you the precise recommendation from the vehicle maker - no options. Their lawyers enforce this, I presume.

Kinda thinking the same...lawyers...can't live with 'em, can't live without 'em...

 

[crackerjack1957]

I have ordered OEM part numbers from Amazon before that tell me it doesn't fit the correct vehicle listed.........LoL

 

[Travis8352]

How do you know this?

There is a thread on that ship on the oil forum started by high performance lubricants, it provides the details

 

[CanuckRam1313]

I just ordered 12 x RP 20-820 filters and 12 x 1gal jugs of 5W30 HP RL oil all from Summit Racing.

With shipping, duty and exchange it cost me a total of (rounded off) $1,521.00 CDN.
Even at this price, I saved just a hair over $400 CDN doing it this way as opposed to going with local Ontario/Canadian suppliers.

I did much checking with the help from a fellow member here pointing me in the right direction for budget friendly US suppliers.

I then purchased 12 x LubeGard Bio/Tech LXE 10oz bottles for $14.50 CDN per bottle from a supplier in Edmonton, Canada. This was a huge savings as most places in Canada want $25 to $30 per 10oz bottle (again, with the help from a fellow member pointing me in the right direction for best pricing suppliers).

So, I now have enough to do 6 full oil/filter changes, with 6 filters and 6 bottles of the Bio/Tech left over for when I purchase another 12 jugs of the HP RL 5W30 oil from Summit Racing.

It was with the help of this forum and its knowledgeable members that I made the decision to move forward on this. I currently have almost 120,000Km's on my 19' Ram and not a tick or issue to be heard. But, I want my truck to last until the wheels fall off (10 to 12 years) and give me a great ownership experience to at least 500,000Km's (or more).

Yes, it's not an inexpensive move to go this route, but it's cheaper than replacement (now out of the factory 5yr/100Km powertrain warranty), and based on all the proven data with these specific products as indicated throughout this great forum, to me it's a no brainer to do this.

So, thanks Ram Forum Crew for all the great info and recommendations!

 

[CanuckRam1313]

Here's a question for y'all:

I have always used synthetic oil since the day I got my truck in June of 19' and have have had 6,000Km oil/filter change intervals.

I've used either Castrol or Pennzoil 5W30 synthetic with either AC Delco or MOPAR oil filters.

Now that I am going to HP RL 5W30 oil, the RP 20-820 oil filter, and putting in a 10oz bottle of the LubeGard LXE additive every oil change, what is the consensus from those with a hell of a lot more knowledge than me on these things as to what is a safe extension for my oil change intervals moving forward?

My driving habits as such that my career as a Project & Sales Manager has me doing a a great deal of driving, with a a lot of it highway, and I am also a spirited driver that uses my HEMI, like a HEMI

I also know the difference between beating a vehicle with hard driving, and knowing how to "drive it" properly, spirited.

Also keeping in mind I am ridiculously meticulous about my preventative and predictive maintenance too.

Thanks for the input & recommendations.

 

[Burla]

I just ordered 12 x RP 20-820 filters and 12 x 1gal jugs of 5W30 HP RL oil all from Summit Racing.

With shipping, duty and exchange it cost me a total of (rounded off) $1,521.00 CDN.
Even at this price, I saved just a hair over $400 CDN doing it this way as opposed to going with local Ontario/Canadian suppliers.

I did much checking with the help from a fellow member here pointing me in the right direction for budget friendly US suppliers.

I then purchased 12 x LubeGard Bio/Tech LXE 10oz bottles for $14.50 CDN per bottle from a supplier in Edmonton, Canada. This was a huge savings as most places in Canada want $25 to $30 per 10oz bottle (again, with the help from a fellow member pointing me in the right direction for best pricing suppliers).

So, I now have enough to do 6 full oil/filter changes, with 6 filters and 6 bottles of the Bio/Tech left over for when I purchase another 12 jugs of the HP RL 5W30 oil from Summit Racing.

It was with the help of this forum and its knowledgeable members that I made the decision to move forward on this. I currently have almost 120,000Km's on my 19' Ram and not a tick or issue to be heard. But, I want my truck to last until the wheels fall off (10 to 12 years) and give me a great ownership experience to at least 500,000Km's (or more).

Yes, it's not an inexpensive move to go this route, but it's cheaper than replacement (now out of the factory 5yr/100Km powertrain warranty), and based on all the proven data with these specific products as indicated throughout this great forum, to me it's a no brainer to do this.

So, thanks Ram Forum Crew for all the great info and recommendations!

The lubegard strategy was developed here as an alternative to redline to give options, we coined it poor mans redline. Sometimes if you combine additive packs you get to a point of diminishing returns, and sometimes you can actually do harm. You would be mixing esters in your sump and there is no large pool of results to say that is something w/o risk, just anecdotal evidence. I think adding redline and biotech in a non ticking engine would be somewhere in the diminishing returns arena and possibly some risk of the later. Ester content could cause seal damage. Now, this is very likely a non issue as the ester level would still be under the level it takes to cause damage, but I don't see the benefit of using this as a long term strategy. It's your call, but I'd be inclined to sit on that biotech as opposed mixing it with redline. If I had hemi tick even with redline, happens sometimes, then I'd take the risk.

bgmoa you can add to redline to safely extend interval in a hemi, you add it 1/2 way through, and is not ester based. With bgmoa added 1/2 through I feel comfortable at 10k highway miles. It could be much more, even over 15k miles, but you need to use a lab to verify that.

 

[CanuckRam1313]

The lubegard strategy was developed here as an alternative to redline to give options, we coined it poor mans redline. Sometimes if you combine additive packs you get to a point of diminishing returns, and sometimes you can actually do harm. You would be mixing esters in your sump and there is no large pool of results to say that is something w/o risk, just anecdotal evidence. I think adding redline and biotech in a non ticking engine would be somewhere in the diminishing returns arena and possibly some risk of the later. Ester content could cause seal damage. Now, this is very likely a non issue as the ester level would still be under the level it takes to cause damage, but I don't see the benefit of using this as a long term strategy. It's your call, but I'd be inclined to sit on that biotech as opposed mixing it with redline. If I had hemi tick even with redline, happens sometimes, then I'd take the risk.

I really appreciate this valuable info.
I'll sit on the Bio/Tech and just move on the new oil and filter for me.

 

[Burla]

There are aspects of used oil that set an interval, oils visc, active tbn, tan level, insolubles, moisture content, etc. Every engine is different, one hemi can literally have a 4k mile interval I have seen it, and some have an 18k mile interval, I have seen it. Do they have a good lab up there?

 

[Travis8352]

Here's a question for y'all:

I have always used synthetic oil since the day I got my truck in June of 19' and have have had 6,000Km oil/filter change intervals.

I've used either Castrol or Pennzoil 5W30 synthetic with either AC Delco or MOPAR oil filters.

Now that I am going to HP RL 5W30 oil, the RP 20-820 oil filter, and putting in a 10oz bottle of the LubeGard LXE additive every oil change, what is the consensus from those with a hell of a lot more knowledge than me on these things as to what is a safe extension for my oil change intervals moving forward?

My driving habits as such that my career as a Project & Sales Manager has me doing a a great deal of driving, with a a lot of it highway, and I am also a spirited driver that uses my HEMI, like a HEMI

I also know the difference between beating a vehicle with hard driving, and knowing how to "drive it" properly, spirited.

Also keeping in mind I am ridiculously meticulous about my preventative and predictive maintenance too.

Thanks for the input & recommendations.

I would try and stretch that to atleast 10,000 KM. Try a UOA with TBN to give some reassurance.

 

[CanuckRam1313]

There are aspects of used oil that set an interval, oils visc, active tbn, tan level, insolubles, moisture content, etc. Every engine is different, one hemi can literally have a 4k mile interval I have seen it, and some have an 18k mile interval, I have seen it. Do they have a good lab up there?

We have great labs in my area.
Do you recommend staying at 6,000Km's and then send it to the lab, or push 8,000Km's and then lab test.

 

[MontanaHandyman]

Here's a question for y'all:

I have always used synthetic oil since the day I got my truck in June of 19' and have have had 6,000Km oil/filter change intervals.

I've used either Castrol or Pennzoil 5W30 synthetic with either AC Delco or MOPAR oil filters.

Now that I am going to HP RL 5W30 oil, the RP 20-820 oil filter, and putting in a 10oz bottle of the LubeGard LXE additive every oil change, what is the consensus from those with a hell of a lot more knowledge than me on these things as to what is a safe extension for my oil change intervals moving forward?

My driving habits as such that my career as a Project & Sales Manager has me doing a a great deal of driving, with a a lot of it highway, and I am also a spirited driver that uses my HEMI, like a HEMI

I also know the difference between beating a vehicle with hard driving, and knowing how to "drive it" properly, spirited.

Also keeping in mind I am ridiculously meticulous about my preventative and predictive maintenance too.

Thanks for the input & recommendations.

"spirited"...I like that!

 

[Burla]

We have great labs in my area.
Do you recommend staying at 6,000Km's and then send it to the lab, or push 8,000Km's and then lab test.

So know the first uoa with a new redline strategy is a toss away as far as wear numbers go. Many causes or theories to the why, but universally the second uoa and beyond are the accurate wear numbers, not gonna open the can of worms, but just know that. So if it were me and that was my money, I'd be inclined to empty a bit from a warm engine not hot, and send it off without changing the oil, you must order tbn, in the states this is extra charge 10 bucks. I'd feel safe doing this at the 7500 mile mark, and then let the lab results set your interval, could be much more dunno. Just one mans opinion, I let the lab set my interval, I was still in safe zone at 10k miles 2 years in my ram, tbn was still over 3, could even go father. But, I now drive even less, so I just change it on two year interval with low miles. All thanks to our filter, that 20-820 filter allows for the only real consideration is uoa results. I have cut open filters as well, but generally if the filter was full you would have issues in your uoa. What's the point of using the best filter and oil if you arent going to make use of the aspects that make them such a good choice? Redline is amoung the top oils as far as starting tbn and you wont loose viscosity either, so unless there is an issue with the engine, and with those easy miles, I'd push it. One mans opinion.

 

[CanuckRam1313]

So know the first uoa with a new redline strategy is a toss away as far as wear numbers go. Many causes or theories to the why, but universally the second uoa and beyond are the accurate wear numbers, not gonna open the can of worms, but just know that. So if it were me and that was my money, I'd be inclined to empty a bit from a warm engine not hot, and send it off without changing the oil, you must order tbn, in the states this is extra charge 10 bucks. I'd feel safe doing this at the 7500 mile mark, and then let the lab results set your interval, could be much more dunno. Just one mans opinion, I let the lab set my interval, I was still in safe zone at 10k miles 2 years in my ram, tbn was still over 3, could even go father. But, I now drive even less, so I just change it on two year interval with low miles. All thanks to our filter, that 20-820 filter allows for the only real consideration is uoa results. I have cut open filters as well, but generally if the filter was full you would have issues in your uoa. What's the point of using the best filter and oil if you arent going to make use of the aspects that make them such a good choice? Redline is amoung the top oils as far as starting tbn and you wont loose viscosity either, so unless there is an issue with the engine, and with those easy miles, I'd push it. One mans opinion.

Thanks again for this detailed info. And while your input is opinion based yes, I also regard and respect it based on your first-hand experience, and longevity here as well, plus your reputation as a straight unvarnished shooter, too!

I'm due for my 6,000Km oil/filter change shortly and will then be changing to the RP filter and the RL oil (I will hold off on any Bio/Tech additives unless I ever need to use it & thanks for that info!) so I'll take a sample of this oil as a somewhat baseline for comparison to start.

I'll then extend my oil/filter change intervals to 8,000Km's, and take my next sample on my second change with the new filter and oil, and compare. Should be interesting to see the differences, and I will post up so we can all see what it looks like too.

 

[CanuckRam1313]

Do you recommend taking the samples at first pour, midway, or towards the end of the drain to get the best used oil for analysis?

 

[Burla]

For interval, it doesnt matter, just want the oil spinning a little and stop engine pull sample. I generally do it towards the middle, just because you don't know when it ends sometimes. You need to fill the sample jar full, they need it full for one specific test. As stated, chances are wear number will be whack first redline run, leaching ions is a guess, ester is a guess, aw additives is another guess to the why. The real value will be set interval with tbn, after that if you get a second report that you can compare to your baseline report. Generally speaking redline isnt a low wear oil due to aw additives, they encourage good wear. dont forget to order tbn, TAN is also beneficial, but tbn is big.

 

[MontanaHandyman]

46 bucks a gallon 0w30 redline.

I bought 2 gallons this morning for $45 each. Just for kicks I went back to Amazon to see if there's any left...yup...2 gallons...at $58!!

 

[Rod Knock]

I just ordered 12 x RP 20-820 filters and 12 x 1gal jugs of 5W30 HP RL oil all from Summit Racing.

With shipping, duty and exchange it cost me a total of (rounded off) $1,521.00 CDN.
Even at this price, I saved just a hair over $400 CDN doing it this way as opposed to going with local Ontario/Canadian suppliers.

I did much checking with the help from a fellow member here pointing me in the right direction for budget friendly US suppliers.

I then purchased 12 x LubeGard Bio/Tech LXE 10oz bottles for $14.50 CDN per bottle from a supplier in Edmonton, Canada. This was a huge savings as most places in Canada want $25 to $30 per 10oz bottle (again, with the help from a fellow member pointing me in the right direction for best pricing suppliers).

So, I now have enough to do 6 full oil/filter changes, with 6 filters and 6 bottles of the Bio/Tech left over for when I purchase another 12 jugs of the HP RL 5W30 oil from Summit Racing.

It was with the help of this forum and its knowledgeable members that I made the decision to move forward on this. I currently have almost 120,000Km's on my 19' Ram and not a tick or issue to be heard. But, I want my truck to last until the wheels fall off (10 to 12 years) and give me a great ownership experience to at least 500,000Km's (or more).

Yes, it's not an inexpensive move to go this route, but it's cheaper than replacement (now out of the factory 5yr/100Km powertrain warranty), and based on all the proven data with these specific products as indicated throughout this great forum, to me it's a no brainer to do this.

So, thanks Ram Forum Crew for all the great info and recommendations!

Unbelievable...