System wide failures on my 2014 RAM 1500? Any diagnostic software recommendations?

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pope3909

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Ram Year
2014
Engine
Hemi 5.7
I am having system wide failures out of nowhere on my 2014 RAM 1500 5.7. This is causing the vehicle to stall and/or shutoff, or not start at all. The most particular part is that I can fix the issue and it will not happen again for months, then out of nowhere it happens again. I have replaced the battery and completely taken out the TIPM to inspect the connectors for bad/corroded wires. I've done the same thing with the connectors in the cab under the steering wheel by the floor firewall.

I'm weary of taking it directly to the dealership because I don't want them to have to go through $5,000 worth of unnecessary parts before they get to the actual solution (if they get to it at all.)

Would I be able to use AlfaOBD or some other program to create logs that would be more helpful than the diagnosis codes? These codes are so random that I can't help but think that there is a short somewhere that is throwing the whole CAN out of wack.

OCTOBER 2022 CODES:
2014 RAM 1500
Odometer: 90,000 mi
P2302 Ignition Coil 1 Secondary Circuit - Insufficient Ionization
P2305 Ignition Coil 2 Secondary Circuit - Insufficient Ionization
P2308 Ignition Coil 3 Secondary Circuit - Insufficient Ionization
P2311 Ignition Coil 4 Secondary Circuit - Insufficient Ionization
P2314 Ignition Coil 5 Secondary Circuit - Insufficient Ionization
P2317 Ignition Coil 6 Secondary Circuit - Insufficient Ionization
P2320 Ignition Coil 7 Secondary Circuit - Insufficient Ionization
P2323 Ignition Coil 8 Secondary Circuit - Insufficient Ionization
P2343 Cylinder 8 Above Knock/Combustion Vibration Sensor Threshold
P00AA Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit Bank 2
B2AAA Check report for description.
B16DF Right Taillamp 1 Control Circuit : Circuit Short To Battery or Open
B1707 Left Reverse Lamp Control Circuit : Circuit Short To Battery or Open
B16B7 Center Stop Lamp Control Circuit : Circuit Short To Battery or Open
B1A76 Remote Start Antenna Circuit : Circuit Open
U0147 Lost Communication With Telematics Gateway : No Sub Type Information
B1A72 Passive Entry Antenna 2 : Circuit Open
B1A71 Passive Entry Antenna 1 : Circuit Open
B25AA Front Passenger Door Handle Sense : General Electrical Failure
B25A9 Front Driver Door Handle Sense : General Electrical Failure
C2128 ECU Reset/Recovery Occurred : No Sub Type Information
P2302 Ignition Coil 1 Secondary Circuit - Insufficient Ionization


FEBRUARY 2022 CODES:
2014 RAM 1500
Odometer: 90,000 mi
P2302 Ignition Coil 1 Secondary Circuit - Insufficient Ionization
P2305 Ignition Coil 2 Secondary Circuit - Insufficient Ionization
P2308 Ignition Coil 3 Secondary Circuit - Insufficient Ionization
P2311 Ignition Coil 4 Secondary Circuit - Insufficient Ionization
P2314 Ignition Coil 5 Secondary Circuit - Insufficient Ionization
P2317 Ignition Coil 6 Secondary Circuit - Insufficient Ionization
P2320 Ignition Coil 7 Secondary Circuit - Insufficient Ionization
P2323 Ignition Coil 8 Secondary Circuit - Insufficient Ionization
P1B14 Park-By-Wire - Unintended Park Position
U1424 Implausible Engine Torque Signal Received
B21DD-84 System Voltage : Signal Below Allowable Range
B2199-16 Battery Voltage : Circuit Voltage Below Threshold
U103C-00 KIN/IGNM Communication : No Sub Type Information
B1A8F-00 IGNM Photo Sensor Failure : No Sub Type Information
B21DD-84 System Voltage : Signal Below Allowable Range
B21DD-16 System Voltage : Circuit Voltage Below Threshold
U0415-00 Invalid Data Received from Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) Control Module "A" : No Sub Type Information
U0121-00 Lost Communication With Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) Control Module "A" : No Sub Type Information
 

Jeepwalker

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5.7 Hemi
Those faults seem consistent with what guys post when having battery/power issues. But you've tried a few batteries. Have you load tested the old and new batteries when replaced? Are they being charged or overcharged? Go flat?

What have you found in terms of your cables and connections? I'm assuming you checked them a long time ago. Not just checked, but loosened and wiggled or cleaned the engine/body connections. Is there any reason to believe that a simple bad ground, or corroded cable ...or bad (weak) connections could be an issue? Electrons flow from neg -> pos ..so they're important. It sounds like you inspected the TIPM and the connections there seemed ok, right? There is that main 'fuse' or wire on top in the fuse area. It looks like a strip of metal and there's a larger bolt that holds it down. Ensure that area is good. IDK if a faulty switch would cause any issues (??). Maybe someone here can chime in on other possibilities.

It might be worth a call to your local Chrysler parts dept to see if you can send the TIPM in for 'checking'. Have it tested. That might be something to consider.
 

LeeD

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When checking your grounds make sure your negative battery cable is good. I once had one go bad under the insulation and it drove me crazy until I found it.
 

RamRod37

2014 Ram 2500 HD 5.7 Hemi
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I would be starting with disconnecting ECM connectors checking them out good then checking grounds around that ECM that many code and voltage issues either that ECM has gone bat **** crazy or there is a bad ground to that ECM. I once had a 2001 dodge ram 1500 5.9L randomly shutting off would not restart then after playing under hood it would start and run great till it done it again would after 3 try's of messing with it I found issues finally one tiny ECM Connector terminal or pin was corroded with blue green crap clean ECM Connector and pins now 1.5 years later still running fine. Some of that stuff just takes time unfortunately and can be a SOB but that would be my starting point ECM grounds connector pins, and work back from there checking wiring harness also. another good one 2002 ford 150 triton 5.4 random went crazy shifting wrong running like on 4 cylinders found a blown ECM fuse run fine after then came back again same thing took some digging in wiring harness but the harness runs down passenger side right close to manifold but going down road would blow over into manifold and it had melted a wire and was shorting out against manifold took two day of digging to figure that one out.
 

Hemi395

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Check ALL the grounds on the truck, especially the one that goes to the engine block. That really sounds like a bad ground causing your electrical gremlins
 
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pope3909

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2014
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Hemi 5.7
My truck finally gave out while I was traveling way out of state for work and I had to tow it to the dealer. It turned out to be the TIPM causing the engine problems. I suspect that it was the non-removable fuel pump relay that has been going out. The TIPMs are so known for this that they have lots of aftermarket fuel pump relay bypass solutions and even a MOPAR one (68269523AD.) I wanted to confirm this so I had them leave the old TIPM (68089578AE) in my cab when they put the new one in (68089578AI) and I am going to try to find a schematic for it to see which relay is the fuel pump and solder in a $10 replacement and keep it as a backup. They charged $576 for the part ($307.20 at store.mopar.com) and $378 for labor to literally just snap in a new one, but what can you do? It would have costed a lot more for me to have it towed off their lot and pay $125/day for the cheapest rental car around while I wait for it to come in the mail.

As far as the other random electrical codes, I suspect that it was either the TIPM or the fact that the previous owner wired the backup camera into the rear brake light. I know that the CAN bus on the 4th gens monitor voltages, and the extra draw may have been throwing codes that did not signal a check engine light and that I only saw once the TIPM caused the check engine light to come on. It did not occur to me to consider that all those codes could have been from more than one problem or else I probably would have discovered the solution a long time ago.

Anyways, thanks for the help guys. I clipped the backup camera power wire and I'm going to run the positive up to the front of the truck properly this time.
 
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