2014 RAM 5.7 system wide failure out of nowhere

[pope3909]

This all started out of nowhere. Any idea what would cause these system wide failures? The PCM, TCM, and ABS all have failures. This is causing the vehicle to stall and/or shutoff, or not start at all. I'm weary of taking it directly to the dealership because I don't want them to have to go through $5,000 worth of unnecessary parts before they get to the actual solution. There are a couple of more codes, such as EVAP leak, but that problem has been off and on for years. The dealer was supposedly supposed to fix it with a recall but it just came back.

P2305 Ignition Coil 2 Secondary Circuit - Insufficient Ionization
P2302 Ignition Coil 1 Secondary Circuit - Insufficient Ionization
P2323 Ignition Coil 8 Secondary Circuit - Insufficient Ionization
P2311 Ignition Coil 4 Secondary Circuit - Insufficient Ionization
P2308 Ignition Coil 3 Secondary Circuit - Insufficient Ionization
P2317 Ignition Coil 6 Secondary Circuit - Insufficient Ionization

P1B14 Park-By-Wire - Unintended Park Position
U1424 Implausible Engine Torque Signal Received

B21DD-84 System Voltage : Signal Below Allowable Range
B2199-16 Battery Voltage : Circuit Voltage Below Threshold
U103C-00 KIN/IGNM Communication : No Sub Type Information
B1A8F-00 IGNM Photo Sensor Failure : No Sub Type Information

B21DD-84 System Voltage : Signal Below Allowable Range
B21DD-16 System Voltage : Circuit Voltage Below Threshold

U0415-00 Invalid Data Received from Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) Control Module "A" : No Sub Type Information
U0121-00 Lost Communication With Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) Control Module "A" : No Sub Type Information

 

[Daw14]

Bad battery…?….that’s my bet .please share your results.A bad battery can cause all sorts of weird things to happen.

 

[MontanaHandyman]

As Daw14 said, doesn't hurt to start there. So many computer modules on vehicles these days that a small drop in voltage can make things go haywire. If it's 5 or 6 years old I'd suggest replacing. When the battery terminals are disconnected, touch them together for about 10 minutes, then keep system disconnected for 30 minutes. Supposedly helps to reboot the modules. Costs nothing to give it a try.

 

[turkeybird56]

As Daw14 said, doesn't hurt to start there. So many computer modules on vehicles these days that a small drop in voltage can make things go haywire. If it's 5 or 6 years old I'd suggest replacing. When the battery terminals are disconnected, touch them together for about 10 minutes, then keep system disconnected for 30 minutes. Supposedly helps to reboot the modules. Costs nothing to give it a try.

^^^ BIG TIME DITTO ^^^

After that, check inside firewall, right of E brake/left of Brake. There is a big wire pack that plugs into (2) white plastic modules (ie junction), a lot of the stuff from TPM runs through three. The ED's were having problems with that connection not being connected properly.

 

[sb1033]

keep us updated! i haven't had a similar issue personally, but if it does happen a diy solution would be ideal.

 

[62Blazer]

With that many different codes, including multiple that state low voltage, I would highly suspect you have an overall power source issue. I'm never a fan of just randomly throwing parts on a vehicle, but here are the places I would start looking and doing diagnosis on:
- Verify the battery is good. Don't randomly replace it (except maybe if it's old) but have it tested.
- Have the alternator tested.
- Check all the battery cables, make sure everything is tight, there is no corrosion.
- Check all the power cables from the alternator.
- Check under and around the TIPM (fuse block) for corrosion, bad wires, loose connections
*Don't be afraid to pull on some wires....not saying you should grab a wire and yank on it as hard as possible, but a good wire and connections should not easily come apart when you mess with it.
- Check all the grounds....find out where the main grounds around the engine bay are......bad grounds will cause just as much problems as bad power wires.
If I had to bet money I would say you will find green crusties somewhere around the main power wires or partially broke connector.

 

[EdGs]

+1 on battery.

Also, check your grounds. They can get pretty funky due to exposure to the elements.

 

[crazykid1994]

Similar but mine gave me canbus failures. I had my TIPM failure and had tcm/pcm and power steering failures. Truck would randomly shut off and throw codes. It wouldn’t start and would randomly just come back on sometimes if the key was still in the run position. Start with the battery though

 

[indept]

If battery is good then check for Varmint damage. Look in the engine compartment & underneath for chewed wires.

 

[pope3909]

UPDATE: There was a lot of good advice and recommendations in this thread, so thank for that. I went out to my truck the day of this post and checked the connectors, paying particular attention to the ones under the TIPM and near the brake pedal. I disconnected the battery, unclipped them and reclipped them, then waiting 10 mins (to clear the check engine light) and reconnected the battery.

It's been 8 days and I have not had the check engine light come back on. If it does then I'll inspect the connectors closer for damage and corrosion. Thanks again for the advice guys!

EDIT: I also checked for harness damage and the grounding points under the hood and on the engine. I checked the alternator positive and negative connections as well.

 

[pacofortacos]

If your connections have any corrosion on, it might be good to clean them and add nygel to connections to prevent future weather related issues.

 

[Wild one]

UPDATE: There was a lot of good advice and recommendations in this thread, so thank for that. I went out to my truck the day of this post and checked the connectors, paying particular attention to the ones under the TIPM and near the brake pedal. I disconnected the battery, unclipped them and reclipped them, then waiting 10 mins (to clear the check engine light) and reconnected the battery.

It's been 8 days and I have not had the check engine light come back on. If it does then I'll inspect the connectors closer for damage and corrosion. Thanks again for the advice guys!

EDIT: I also checked for harness damage and the grounding points under the hood and on the engine. I checked the alternator positive and negative connections as well.

There's another connector under the truck on the drivers side ,basically inline with where your feet would sit on the inside,that's also another known spot to have a bad connection

 

[RootPC]

There's another connector under the truck on the drivers side ,basically inline with where your feet would sit on the inside,that's also another known spot to have a bad connection

How does one disconnect those if that lever is broken? The previous owner of this truck must've has some problems too and that lever is broke, and the connector is zip-tied together

 

[pope3909]

I created a new post when this happened again, and the solution is there. Please consider this post locked.
Link to new thread: https://www.ramforum.com/threads/sy...software-recommendations.193938/#post-2718691