The Euro guys are blowing us away with their 8 speed development

[Wild one]

DCT Clutch Simulator – Clutch Kicks Back with the ZF 8HP

Game Changer Alert: The DCT Clutch Simulator That’ll Make Your 8HP Feel Proper Manual Right, so you’ve gone down the 8HP rabbit hole like the rest of us, yeah? Got yourself sorted with …

tracktuned.uk

DCT Clutch Simulator – Clutch Kicks Back with the ZF 8HP​

LawTracktunedAugust 27, 2025

Game Changer Alert: The DCT Clutch Simulator That’ll Make Your 8HP Feel Proper Manual​

Right, so you’ve gone down the 8HP rabbit hole like the rest of us, yeah? Got yourself sorted with a Turbolamik controller because you want that proper drift setup with clutch-by-wire goodness. But here’s the thing, having a button for your clutch or some dodgy electronic throttle pedal just doesn’t cut it when you’re trying to nail that perfect clutch kick or drop the clutch for a proper handbrake entry.
Well, the lads over at DCT Shifter have just dropped something that’s going to make your day, the DCT Clutch Simulator. And ****** hell, it’s about time someone sorted this properly!



What’s All The Fuss About Then?
Look, I’ll be straight with you, if you’re running an 8HP with a Turbolamik controller and you’re serious about drifting, this little beauty is going to transform how your car feels. The DCT Clutch Simulator is designed to replicate the feel of a “real” clutch pedal, complete with an optional built-in 5v analog CPS (clutch position sensor) for straightforward installation.
The genius bit? It’s designed to work perfectly with the Turbolamik controller for 8HP transmissions. If you’re running the Turbolamik setup like I mentioned in my 8HP post, this thing is going to slot in beautifully.

Why Your Drifting Game Needs This​

Here’s where it gets proper exciting for all you drift nutters out there. You know how I banged on about the Turbolamik being brilliant for drift applications because of the clutch-by-wire feature? Well, this clutch simulator is what makes that feature actually usable in anger.
Picture this: you’re coming into a corner, you need to clutch kick to get the rear end sliding, and instead of fumbling around for a button or trying to modulate some weird electronic setup, you’ve got a proper clutch pedal that feels like the real deal. Clutch by Wire is extremely fun for burnouts, clutch kicks, or just because. and now you can do it with proper pedal feel.
The ability to drop the clutch for handbrake entries is going to be a game changer. No more guessing games, no more “is it engaged or not?” moments. You’ll know exactly what’s happening because it feels like a proper manual setup.

Built Like a Brick *********​

The unit features a robust, compact design crafted from high-quality anodized aluminum for maximum durability and protection. Made in Sweden. And you know what? That shows. Looking at the specs and build quality, these aren’t messing about.

The Swedish engineering really comes through in the details. It’s compact enough to fit most setups, but built tough enough to handle proper abuse. Because let’s face it, if you’re drifting regularly, your clutch pedal is going to get a right hammering.

Installation Options That Actually Make Sense​

Here’s where DCT Shifter have been clever, they’ve given you two mounting options because they know not every build is the same:
Firewall/Pedal Mounting: Comes with everything you need including an M8 rod with clevis link and a mounting plate that’ll fit most firewalls (62-53mm center-to-center). Perfect if you want that OEM integrated feel.
Remote Mounting: Uses a 3/8-24 UNF fitting so it connects as a slave cylinder after your main clutch master. Comes with stainless mounting bracket and even has a little M3 screw for bleeding. Proper sorted.
One thing to note – with the remote setup, you might need a helper spring to get the pedal return feeling spot on. They’re honest about it too, which I respect. Some setups work great without one, but it seems to depend on your pedal’s geometry and cylinder size. They’re working on a fix, but for now, chucking a helper spring on is the easy solution.

The Technical Bits (Because I Know You Want Them)​

Let’s talk specs because this is where you can see they’ve done their homework:

• Sensor Power: 5v DC (perfect for modern ECUs)
• Sensor Output: 0.5-4.5v (proper range for accurate readings)
• Sensor Range: 0-10 bar (more than enough for any application)
• Material: Aluminum throughout
• Weight: 0.8kg (not going to upset your weight distribution)

The dimensions are spot on too, compact enough to fit most builds but substantial enough that you know it’s not going to break when you’re giving it some stick.

Setup Notes That’ll Save You Headaches​

Here’s a proper important bit that DCT Shifter mention in their notes: When you calibrate your simulator to your gearbox controller, leave some room from when the clutch pedal is not pressed. Heat from the engine bay causes slight pressure changes (voltage rise about 0.1v at 80 celsius). So if you read ~0.5v when 0% pressed, set 0% to at least 0.8-1.0v.
That’s the kind of real world advice that comes from actually testing this stuff properly, not just designing it in a computer and hoping for the best.

​

 

[Wild one]

Why This Matters for the 8HP Community​

Look, I’ve been banging on about 8HP swaps for ages now because they’re genuinely brilliant. The combination of strength, availability, and when set up right with something like Turbolamik, they can shift brutally fast. But the clutch control aspect has always been the weak link for drift applications.

This clutch simulator sorts that problem properly. No more compromise, no more “it’s good enough” solutions. You get proper clutch feel with all the benefits of the 8HP platform.

And let’s be honest, once you’ve experienced how good a properly set up 8HP can be with sequential shifting, going back to anything else just feels wrong. Add proper clutch control to that equation and you’ve got something pretty special.

The Bottom Line​

The DCT Clutch Simulator is one of those products that makes you think “why didn’t someone do this sooner?” It’s solving a real problem that anyone serious about drifting with an 8HP setup has been dealing with.

At the end of the day, if you’re running Turbolamik and you want to make the most of that clutch-by-wire feature, this is a no-brainer. It’s going to make your car feel more connected, more predictable, and frankly, more fun to drive.

The Swedish build quality, the thoughtful design, the proper engineering – it all adds up to something that’s going to last and perform when you need it most.

So yeah, if you’re serious about your 8HP drift setup, get yourself sorted with one of these. Your right foot will thank you for it.



Fancy getting your hands on one? Check out DCT Shifter for all the details and to place your order. Tell them Tracktuned sent you!

 

[bm02tj]

That is cool but will leave mine stock

 

[Wild one]

That is cool but will leave mine stock

What gets me is how the guys on the other side of the pond are getting away with putting 600 horses through the little 45,and upwards of a 1,000 horses through the 70,and the tranny's are living and they're basically using stock transmissions.Admittedly the cars they're doing it in are alot lighter,and they're not making the bottem end torque our V8's are making,but it's still impressive as hell,and throw in the fact they're clutch kicking a 70 for drifting,and the transmission is taking it

 

[David Vandercook]

Serious question, why are they working so hard to make an automatic act exactly like a manual instead of just using an actual manual, which would be lighter and more durable? Once you have an actual clutch simulator don't you eliminate the entire purpose of an automatic transmission?

 

[Wild one]

Serious question, why are they working so hard to make an automatic act exactly like a manual instead of just using an actual manual, which would be lighter and more durable? Once you have an actual clutch simulator don't you eliminate the entire purpose of an automatic transmission?

I've wondered that to,as alot of the pro drifters over there have pulled their manual transmissions and swapped in an 8 speed ,admittedly i don't follow the pro drifting circuit much,but to me it seems counter intuitive.

 

[Docwagon1776]

Serious question, why are they working so hard to make an automatic act exactly like a manual instead of just using an actual manual, which would be lighter and more durable? Once you have an actual clutch simulator don't you eliminate the entire purpose of an automatic transmission?

The manual's day of being the durability king behind high torque is over and nobody can clutch shift as fast as a computer can shift a modern automatic. I still like manuals and still own and drive one, but there is no measurable metric that the auto doesn't win these days. Manuals are more engaging and fun to me, but I know I'm leaving performance on the table to enjoy that. Manually controlling an automatic lets you do true no lift shifting while still holding the gear you want through a curve.

Manual no lift shift is fine for drag racing but as delivered from the OEM it requires you to pedal stand from launch, something you obviously can't do if curves become part of the course. My only experience with NLS is with GM, but they claim it's actually easier on the drivetrain since it smooths out the shock of not-quite-RPM matched shifts when shifting aggressively at speed. A manually shifted auto will always have that smoothness and can do it without requiring full throttle.

 

[Wild one]

The manual's day of being the durability king behind high torque is over and nobody can clutch shift as fast as a computer can shift a modern automatic. I still like manuals and still own and drive one, but there is no measurable metric that the auto doesn't win these days. Manuals are more engaging and fun to me, but I know I'm leaving performance on the table to enjoy that. Manually controlling an automatic lets you do true no lift shifting while still holding the gear you want through a curve.

Manual no lift shift is fine for drag racing but as delivered from the OEM it requires you to pedal stand from launch, something you obviously can't do if curves become part of the course. My only experience with NLS is with GM, but they claim it's actually easier on the drivetrain since it smooths out the shock of not-quite-RPM matched shifts when shifting aggressively at speed. A manually shifted auto will always have that smoothness and can do it without requiring full throttle.

I'm not really into drifting,but i didn't think they were really changing gears much when sliding,but i might be wrong,as i don't follow that circuit.I see the clutch kick idea though,using it to kick the rear sideways and get the tires spinning.
Your explanation makes more sense though,as you can't beat the speed of the newer automatics shifts,so if they are shifting mid slide,the auto does make more sense

 

[Docwagon1776]

I'm not really into drifting,but i didn't think they were really changing gears much when sliding,but i might be wrong,as i don't follow that circuit.I see the clutch kick idea though,using it to kick the rear sideways and get the tires spinning.
Your explanation makes more sense though,as you can't beat the speed of the newer automatics shifts,so if they are shifting mid slide,the auto does make more sense

You can take what I know about it, put it a thimble, and have room left for your thumb. My son showed me some videos of some guy that he followed for awhile and they were definitely shifting mid-drift deep in corners or coming out. I have no idea how prevalent that is, though.

 

[Brandon-w]

I kinda want one

 

[04fxdwgi]

Ahhh, the old days of testing the torqueflite "Cluch Matic". Add a clutch to a built 727 and you could not miss a shift while rocketing down the 1/4 mile.
They even made kits for the install. Basically, you cut off the 727 bellhousing at the pump face, installed a clutch pedal, a flywheel, a good racing clutch, a NHRA approved bell housing (with the adapter) and a transmission pump drive. Pretty easy peasy.

Did a couple of them and they were rock solid.

 

[Wild one]

Ahhh, the old days of testing the torqueflite "Cluch Matic". Add a clutch to a built 727 and you could not miss a shift while rocketing down the 1/4 mile.
They even made kits for the install. Basically, you cut off the 727 bellhousing at the pump face, installed a clutch pedal, a flywheel, a good racing clutch, a NHRA approved bell housing (with the adapter) and a transmission pump drive. Pretty easy peasy.

Did a couple of them and they were rock solid.

We called them the Clutch Flites.I never installed one,as they were before my time,they were fairly common in the late 60's/early 70's,but by the time i was building toys in the later 70's convertor technology had made them basically obsolete. But my Dad had a buddy with one behind a very healthy 427 BB in a 55 Chebby,and i remember Dad and i going for a ride in it when i was about 10,and i still remember the shifts,violent didn't describe the 1-2 and 2-3 shift,lol. Without a convertor to soften the shifts,they were violent enough to break parts

 

[Wild one]

With a 147 mph entry speed i guess the pro-drifters are changing gears more then i thought I can see the advantages to the 8 speed now in that circuit

1M views · 69K reactions | 147mph entry into Brooklands, Silverstone @gassedontrack @monsterenergy #s15 #nissansilvia #2jz #silvia #silvia15 #drifting #driftcar #2jzgte #s15silvia #driftlife #jdmculture #jdmlifestyle #drift #2jzswap | Pauly C

147mph entry into Brooklands, Silverstone @gassedontrack @monsterenergy #s15 #nissansilvia #2jz #silvia #silvia15 #drifting #driftcar #2jzgte #s15silvia #driftlife #jdmculture...

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[rzr6-4]

I'm not really into drifting,but i didn't think they were really changing gears much when sliding,but i might be wrong,as i don't follow that circuit.I see the clutch kick idea though,using it to kick the rear sideways and get the tires spinning.
Your explanation makes more sense though,as you can't beat the speed of the newer automatics shifts,so if they are shifting mid slide,the auto does make more sense

You can take what I know about it, put it a thimble, and have room left for your thumb. My son showed me some videos of some guy that he followed for awhile and they were definitely shifting mid-drift deep in corners or coming out. I have no idea how prevalent that is, though.

If guys are shifting while on throttle and during the middle of a drift, something has probly gone wrong. If the chase car gets choked up by the lead you might see it if they get slowed down and it's either down shift or stall, but not often. You will see the car shimmy and that doesn't look good to the judges. Some tracks they will ride the outer wall of a bank and then transition down into the infield, and when they make that transition they are either clutching in and letting the car float while they shift or braking w/ their left foot, and heel-toe down shifting with their right. A moment like that would be a good example of when you really need your shift to be as fast and easy as possible. But that would still be considered a transition, try that mid bank and you could very well end up in the wall.

That said, low level and most mid level guys are running normal H pattern shifters. High level guys with the money for it will typically use a dog box. So a simple push or pull to shift. If they were still running an H pattern then I could totally see this set up helping, but the existence of the dog box seems to already fill that role.

That said, maybe you can buy an 8spd and do the "manual" conversion for cheaper than a dog box, being more accessible for the lower level guys.

With a 147 mph entry speed i guess the pro-drifters are changing gears more then i thought I can see the advantages to the 8 speed now in that circuit

1M views · 69K reactions | 147mph entry into Brooklands, Silverstone @gassedontrack @monsterenergy #s15 #nissansilvia #2jz #silvia #silvia15 #drifting #driftcar #2jzgte #s15silvia #driftlife #jdmculture #jdmlifestyle #drift #2jzswap | Pauly C

147mph entry into Brooklands, Silverstone @gassedontrack @monsterenergy #s15 #nissansilvia #2jz #silvia #silvia15 #drifting #driftcar #2jzgte #s15silvia #driftlife #jdmculture...

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147 is higher than what I'm used to seeing, but for the pro guys, 100-110 with who knows what above that for wheel speed is usually a 4th gear entry. Formula Drift is in Utah this weekend, they stream live to youtube. That track will have most guys entering at 90-105.

Edit to add: Coming off the bank if you clutch in and float the car, you also have to pull the E-brake. If you're doing heel toe you can get by without it if you're quick.

 

[DILLIGAF]

Oh chite , new Dilli mod

My buddy's 8 speed Yota SR5 , turbolink launches are awesome

 

[04fxdwgi]

You are correct. It was ClutchFlite. Was a long time ago.

We called them the Clutch Flites.I never installed one,as they were before my time,they were fairly common in the late 60's/early 70's,but by the time i was building toys in the later 70's convertor technology had made them basically obsolete. But my Dad had a buddy with one behind a very healthy 427 BB in a 55 Chebby,and i remember Dad and i going for a ride in it when i was about 10,and i still remember the shifts,violent didn't describe the 1-2 and 2-3 shift,lol. Without a convertor to soften the shifts,they were violent enough to break parts

You are correct. It was a Loooong time ago.

 

[shedkept]

Complications have ramifications.

 

[QwikKota]

Wait, whut? I see where there is a spot on the firewall to add a clutch pedal but what would this actually be controlling? Is it linked to a lockup device inside the 8 speed??

 

[Wild one]

Wait, whut? I see where there is a spot on the firewall to add a clutch pedal but what would this actually be controlling? Is it linked to a lockup device inside the 8 speed??

A clutch kick on an 8HP70 transmission is a drift technique that uses a virtual clutch pedal and a custom control unit, like the Turbo Lamic, to temporarily disengage the transmission's internal clutches. By quickly pressing the clutch pedal while on the throttle, the engine RPMs rapidly increase, and the transmission's clutches are then released, creating a sudden jolt of power to the wheels and breaking their traction to initiate a drift.


This video demonstrates how a virtual clutch pedal is used to perform a clutch kick and drift:




52s



Zero To 60
YouTube · Oct 18, 2022
How a Clutch Kick Works

1. 1. Approach the Corner:
   Drive towards the corner at a medium speed while on the throttle.
2. 2. Stomp the Clutch:
   Just before the turn-in point, quickly press the virtual clutch pedal all the way to the floor.
3. 3. Engine RPMs Skyrocket:
   With the clutch pedal disengaged, you remain on the throttle, causing the engine's RPMs to rise sharply.
4. 4. Quickly Release the Clutch:
   As soon as the engine speed reaches the desired level, rapidly release the clutch pedal.
5. 5. Traction Loss:
   This sudden release of the clutch causes a powerful jolt of force to the rear wheels. This rapid power delivery, in combination with the steering input, breaks their traction with the road.
6. 6. Initiate Drift:
   The resulting wheel spin and subsequent understeer cause the rear of the car to slide, initiating the drift.

The 8HP70 Transmission and Virtual Clutches

• Internal Clutches:
  The 8HP70 transmission uses multiple internal clutch packs and brakes to select gears and manage power delivery.
  
  
• Virtual Clutch Pedal:
  To perform a clutch kick in an automatic transmission, a virtual clutch pedal is installed. This pedal is connected to a linear potentiometer that sends a signal to the transmission's control unit (TCU).
  
  
• TCU Control:
  The TCU, often a specialized unit like the Turbo Lamic, interprets the signal from the virtual clutch pedal and then electronically disengages the relevant internal clutch packs to perform the clutch kick.
  
  
• Custom Tuning:
  This setup requires custom tuning of the transmission's control unit to adjust the clutch's response and engagement point, allowing for rapid and effective clutch kicks.
  

 

[Wild one]

Wait, whut? I see where there is a spot on the firewall to add a clutch pedal but what would this actually be controlling? Is it linked to a lockup device inside the 8 speed??

They work similiar to a pressure dump valve on a GM Turbo 400,except it completely releases the clutches,while most dump valves on 400's still keep a bit of clutch pressure in force