Ticking in the engine...

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knightjp

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This sound just suddenly started happening today.


Does anyone know what this is? I mean this just started and I do my maintenance on time and stuff. Mechanically there should not be any issue since it been maintained and it has only just over 136,000 kms on the clock.

And Yes, I do know my door creaks.. It needs a bit of grease.
 

LeesEvoX

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This sound just suddenly started happening today.


Does anyone know what this is? I mean this just started and I do my maintenance on time and stuff. Mechanically there should not be any issue since it been maintained and it has only just over 136,000 kms on the clock.

And Yes, I do know my door creaks.. It needs a bit of grease.

Yeah looks like that is a lifter problem.

The 5.7l Hemi has earned a pretty bad reputation for failing lifters. Eventually they will wear down the lobe on the camshaft. It can cause some pretty bad damage if left un checked.

Time to pull the heads!!!
 
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knightjp

knightjp

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Yeah looks like that is a lifter problem.

The 5.7l Hemi has earned a pretty bad reputation for failing lifters. Eventually they will wear down the lobe on the camshaft. It can cause some pretty bad damage if left un checked.

Time to pull the heads!!!
Yikes... Sounds expensive.. Any ideas what could cause it and what can be done to prevent it?
I've heard people with the 5.7 use their engines for over 10 years without a single issue.
 

jws123

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You sir need a camshaft and lifters stop running it sounds like mine when i broke a roller off of a lifter it ate the cam. If you do the work yourself it can be done for $1000 not to bad of a job could be worse.
 
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LeesEvoX

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Yikes... Sounds expensive.. Any ideas what could cause it and what can be done to prevent it?
I've heard people with the 5.7 use their engines for over 10 years without a single issue.

It is caused by improper lubrication, and you prevent it by using a high moly oil, and going to a thicker viscosity. Which is why most people here use Redline 5W30, along with a good filter like royal purple.

Some folks get lucky. some dont. my last ram was a 2012 1500 with the hemi. had it in the family since new, and traded it in at like 175k miles. Still sounded buttery smooth.

Now the 6.4l in my new 2500 is LOUD. but it is starting to get better with every oil change.

If i were you, i would stop driving the car, and get the heads pulled. If you keep driving it you just increase the chances of something breaking. Which will then jam into something else. And then something else will break.

Its always better to be preventative, rather than reactive! lol
 
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knightjp

knightjp

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I'm gonna take it to the mechanic first thing tomorrow morning.

I don't know what happened since my mechanic uses the same oil and stuff that the main dealer would use.

Not sure if we have Redline 5W30 or royal purple here in Dubai. So what are the other brands that we can use?
 

LeesEvoX

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I'm gonna take it to the mechanic first thing tomorrow morning.

I don't know what happened since my mechanic uses the same oil and stuff that the main dealer would use.

Not sure if we have Redline 5W30 or royal purple here in Dubai. So what are the other brands that we can use?

From the factory FCA specs out 5W20. So right off the bat you are using thinner oil. (At least in the USA).

People have good luck with Amsoil. but Redline has been named "HEMI Honey". because it works so well. Looking at the Redline website there are two dealers in Dubai.

Atomic auto spare parts trading LLC
Al Quoz Industrial area 2, 26th road PO Box 410688
Dubai, Dubai, 410688
+971 4 358 0877

or

Hercules Group, UAE
PO Box 4756
Sharjah, Sharjah, 4756 SHJ
+971 6 744 4131
 
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knightjp

knightjp

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Thanks a lot for the info. This has been extremely helpful. It is a shocker that FCA would prescribe a thinner oil in their manuals. Perhaps its oversights like this give them their horrible track record with reliability.
 
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LeesEvoX

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Thanks a lot for the info. This has been extremely helpful. It is a shocker that FCA would prescribe a thinner oil in their manuals. Perhaps its oversights like this give them their horrible track record with reliability.

nah. Everyone is just trying to get in bed with the EPA. so they use thinner oils which will (Marginally) increase gas mileage.. But 1mpg better than ford is still better than ford. catch my drift?

Hence why the standard viscosity of oil for the ram 2500 is 0W40... because over here the heavy duty trucks dont have to abide by the same rules :)
 
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knightjp

knightjp

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nah. Everyone is just trying to get in bed with the EPA. so they use thinner oils which will (Marginally) increase gas mileage.. But 1mpg better than ford is still better than ford. catch my drift?

Hence why the standard viscosity of oil for the ram 2500 is 0W40... because over here the heavy duty trucks dont have to abide by the same rules :)
But like in the case of my truck, won't the thinner oils mean that reliability will suffer?
Imagine me having to explain my peers, who own GM & Fords, that my newer truck with less than 150,000 kms on the clock need to have a cam shaft and lifters fixed. Especially when I am more organized and regular with my maintenance that they are... They will say "standard FCA"..

And then will come the Tundra dudes on the internet.
 

LeesEvoX

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But like in the case of my truck, won't the thinner oils mean that reliability will suffer?
Imagine me having to explain my peers, who own GM & Fords, that my newer truck with less than 150,000 kms on the clock need to have a cam shaft and lifters fixed. Especially when I am more organized and regular with my maintenance that they are... They will say "standard FCA"..

And then will come the Tundra dudes on the internet.

FCA will say all day it doesnt effect longevity.... but look at where you are. lol. i dont think ANY vehicle should run a 20 weight oil. by the time they get to operating temperature, they are probably more like a 10 weight.. which is even worse lol.

GM is also not exempt from these issues. And ford just sucks, i hear the Ecoboost engines have all kinds of issues.

As for Toyota... Well, you cant argue their reliability. But at the same time. Look at the trucks? they are gross, technology in them is ancient. They really arent even that good of an off road truck anymore either.

Just outdated.
 

Burla

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No Codes? I wouldn't drive that, what might just be a bad lifter might eat the cam if it hasn't already. Especially if you aren't getting any codes, that means the lifter is still lifting, just with a lot of restriction, which means pressure downstream, no good.
 
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knightjp

knightjp

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Another comment mentioned that it could be loose manifold bolts as well as it is a common problem on the HEMIs as well.
I don't have any warning lights on my dash. So maybe it may not be lifters at all. #Hoping.

However, if it is just manifolds, I would still check the oil, what was used and do an oil change to the Redline as well to be on the safe side.


No Codes? I wouldn't drive that, what might just be a bad lifter might eat the cam if it hasn't already. Especially if you aren't getting any codes, that means the lifter is still lifting, just with a lot of restriction, which means pressure downstream, no good.

FCA will say all day it doesnt effect longevity.... but look at where you are. lol..
No surprise there. Otherwise you are looking at liabilities which no company would want.

GM is also not exempt from these issues. And ford just sucks, i hear the Ecoboost engines have all kinds of issues.
Haven't heard anything about GM vehicles. But as for Ford, the Ecoboost engines do have issues.
All makes have their fans, willing to argue away the faults.

As for Toyota... Well, you cant argue their reliability. But at the same time. Look at the trucks? they are gross, technology in them is ancient. They really arent even that good of an off road truck anymore either.

Just outdated.
Probably hence why they have the reliability in the first place. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Well in the case of Toyota, if it ain't broke don't update it.
By sticking with old tried and true. They have managed to keep the reliability. That's their secret. They let the others innovate, experiment and then just use the successful and long lasting ideas. Thus keeping their vehicles reliable. They basically are learning from the mistakes of GM, Ford & FCA.

Toyota is probably the only company that still builds ancient 70 series trucks for markets like Africa and Australia.. Why break a tried and true recipe? There is a huge fanbase for them there as well as aftermarket support.

However Toyota is no stranger to flaws in the Tundras as well. There have been a number of engines just suddenly failing with Tundras. Toyota's usual S.O.P. for dealing with flaws is "Deny everything, find a way to blame the customer, do nothing, public relations to make sure they keep the reliability score high and maintain the image.."
They did that with my brother's Camry. Hence why I dislike the brand. But if there was a truck other than the Ram, I would own, the Tundra would be it.
 
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Lyle Longboat

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This sound just suddenly started happening today.


Does anyone know what this is? I mean this just started and I do my maintenance on time and stuff. Mechanically there should not be any issue since it been maintained and it has only just over 136,000 kms on the clock.

And Yes, I do know my door creaks.. It needs a bit of grease.
Man that’s loud! Lifter my friend!
 
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knightjp

knightjp

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Just returned from leaving the truck with the mechanic.
While there, we checked with his Mopar supplier that supplied the oil for the truck's last oil change and basically the supplier gave us the oil that was recommended for based of the truck's vin and serial numbers - which was Mopar 5W20.. So for the past 3 oil changes, I have been using 5W20 oil which has resulted in the ticking noise.

The mechanic said that another customer came to him with the same ticking sound and it was stopped by just flushing out the oil. The current plan is we would run it with the thicker grade for a short time and then replace it again after about 1000 - 2000 kms. We'd run with this same stuff in engine with regular and shorter oil change intervals for about 3 - 4 times and then switch off to the Redline 5W30 after.


Truth be told, most garages over here use 5W30 oils for most other V8 engines. Oils from Castrol and Total all carry 5W30. Had we done the oil changes in those shops, it would have been just fine. But I had insisted on using what main dealer would use.. which is turned out to be the Mopar 5W20..

How does Mopar 5W30 compare with Redline?
 

LeesEvoX

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Just returned from leaving the truck with the mechanic.
While there, we checked with his Mopar supplier that supplied the oil for the truck's last oil change and basically the supplier gave us the oil that was recommended for based of the truck's vin and serial numbers - which was Mopar 5W20.. So for the past 3 oil changes, I have been using 5W20 oil which has resulted in the ticking noise.

The mechanic said that another customer came to him with the same ticking sound and it was stopped by just flushing out the oil. The current plan is we would run it with the thicker grade for a short time and then replace it again after about 1000 - 2000 kms. We'd run with this same stuff in engine with regular and shorter oil change intervals for about 3 - 4 times and then switch off to the Redline 5W30 after.


Truth be told, most garages over here use 5W30 oils for most other V8 engines. Oils from Castrol and Total all carry 5W30. Had we done the oil changes in those shops, it would have been just fine. But I had insisted on using what main dealer would use.. which is turned out to be the Mopar 5W20..

How does Mopar 5W30 compare with Redline?
There a very few pils that compare with redline 5w30. As already said above.

The special thing about redline is the additive package.

So dont just think that switching to any 5w30 will solve your proble.. there is a reason redline is so expensive lol

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
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knightjp

knightjp

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There a very few pils that compare with redline 5w30. As already said above.

The special thing about redline is the additive package.

So dont just think that switching to any 5w30 will solve your proble.. there is a reason redline is so expensive lol

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
I told my mechanic to only use Redline from now on. Speaking of which, the mechanic just mentioned that we would need to change the lifters and the cam.
 

Burla

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How does Mopar 5W30 compare with Redline?

It's really about formula instead of a name, the reason why the formula in redline seemingly has lubricated this tick situation better then other oils must lay with the different base oils and the high ep/aw additives, so you can't really compare anything to redline except motul 300v and millers.

Sorry to hear about the Cam.
 
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