To clean or not clean the oil pan, that is the question

[Zoltar4]

There are two sided to every story, Did he really say aluminum bolt head or a bolt head and aluminum parts in the pan?
Then you got the 2 parts of the story mixed up?
Cheeping out on a fix will usually mean you do it over again and in this case take the motor out, if that crud gets mixed in the oil and end up in the bearings.

I'll say this English is his second language and there is a significant language barrier. I solved this by visiting the shop. He showed me the piece of the bolt and I had a magnet and showed him its steel. He said the oil pump housing is aluminum and that the chain ground some into the oil pan. He had not yet removed the pan but put a hard sell on me to do it with the warning that the metal could get sucked out of the pan into the engine. 6 hours labor. Not an easy decision on a 13 year old truck with 200K mi

 

[Zoltar4]

Now that we know the issue,you're mechanic is probably right and the pan should come off for cleaning.I'd even ask him about washing out the inside of the crankcase/engine as much as possible to,when he has the pan off.When it's back together use some cheap oil,and change it in about 75 miles and cut open the filter at the same time,if the engine still has aluminium floating around in it,you should be able to see it in the oil and filter pleats if you cut the filter open.
If you're not sure how to cut a filter open,google it on you tube,there's a bunch of video's explaining how to do it.

The SAGA continues. I'm 13 hours of labor into this - 7 for Timing chain /guide/ tensioner/ phaser and crank gear replace + parts cost and 6 hours to remove and clean oil pan and replace. Mechanic said the truck started right up and he then tried to recalibrate the cam and crank position sensors which he says failed. He drove it and says that truck is low power until the check engine light comes on at which point the truck is at full power - exact opposite of what was happening when I took it there. He claims the phaser will not move at all when he tests it with his scanner and has declared it defective. Now he wants 5 hours labor to replace the phaser. I supplied the whole kit from Amazon (Phaser, chain, guide, tensioner and crank gear) so he blames me for the parts fail. The reason I started providing parts like gaskets and then eventually the kit is because it would go days for me to wait for him to quote any specific parts or prices so Id look them up and could get next day. Maybe that was all part of his plan?? i dont know. I called a Dodge dealer - 200 to diagnose, $1000 labor to replace phaser/timing parts and then all mopar parts $1000. So Choice seems to be 5 hours labor ($100/hr) plus online mopar phaser for 280 ($780 total) at current shop and wait for the next problem/excuse/price increase or take it to dodge....any advice? (Amazon helped me - I called and explained all of the above and eventually they just issued full refund and said I did not need to return parts - pretty amazing!)

 

[Dodge 1500 4X4]

I am trying to picture how the bolt would fall into pan from the timing chain cover, i am not going to Google it.

GT, the front of the engine is exposed to the front of the oil pan under the timing cover, Tensioner bolt broke off and went into the oil pan, also the flakes off the oil pump went in there.

 

[Dodge 1500 4X4]

(Amazon helped me - I called and explained all of the above and eventually they just issued full refund and said I did not need to return parts - pretty amazing!)

Amazonian parts are from Chineasium, don't want to rub it in buy nothing but OEM parts next time.

 

[Marshall]

At the price of labour these days, I would not be trying to save on crap shoot parts

I have never had the pan off on one of these newer trucks,
Sound like lot of time compared to the old 360, 440’s

 

[Wild one]

The SAGA continues. I'm 13 hours of labor into this - 7 for Timing chain /guide/ tensioner/ phaser and crank gear replace + parts cost and 6 hours to remove and clean oil pan and replace. Mechanic said the truck started right up and he then tried to recalibrate the cam and crank position sensors which he says failed. He drove it and says that truck is low power until the check engine light comes on at which point the truck is at full power - exact opposite of what was happening when I took it there. He claims the phaser will not move at all when he tests it with his scanner and has declared it defective. Now he wants 5 hours labor to replace the phaser. I supplied the whole kit from Amazon (Phaser, chain, guide, tensioner and crank gear) so he blames me for the parts fail. The reason I started providing parts like gaskets and then eventually the kit is because it would go days for me to wait for him to quote any specific parts or prices so Id look them up and could get next day. Maybe that was all part of his plan?? i dont know. I called a Dodge dealer - 200 to diagnose, $1000 labor to replace phaser/timing parts and then all mopar parts $1000. So Choice seems to be 5 hours labor ($100/hr) plus online mopar phaser for 280 ($780 total) at current shop and wait for the next problem/excuse/price increase or take it to dodge....any advice? (Amazon helped me - I called and explained all of the above and eventually they just issued full refund and said I did not need to return parts - pretty amazing!)

I have to agree with 1500,the Amazon kit might be biting you in the rear now.

 

[Docwagon1776]

Way too much counterfeit stuff on Amazon for me to trust them on something that critical. They know, it's just cheaper to refund then actually stop it in the first place.

 

[P_Vilefort]

There are no aluminum bolts used in any American made engine, but especially none with a cast iron block, like the 5,7L Hemi. The sump is likely in the rear and the oil pump is driven directly from the nose of the crankshaft. The pump is also totally enclosed so hoe could the timing chain scuff the gerotor pump? I think you are getting hosed by this guy. You don't want him pulling the pan because the gasket is also a windage tray and I suspect that alone is going to cost you a bunch. The oil pump pickup runs the full length of the pan, from the sump to the oil pump at the front.
Here is a picture of the engine. Notice the location of the oil pump. Sorry there isn't a better picture of the timing chain. What makes you believe thee is something wrong with the timing? Require that they return all the pieces that are replaced. None of this stuff is returned for a deposit.

 

[P_Vilefort]

I think I would consider taking it or having it taken to the Dodge shop. Maybe you should also consider talking to an attorney especially when you find out that nothing was replaced as claimed.

 

[Wild one]

There are no aluminum bolts used in any American made engine, but especially none with a cast iron block, like the 5,7L Hemi. The sump is likely in the rear and the oil pump is driven directly from the nose of the crankshaft. The pump is also totally enclosed so hoe could the timing chain scuff the gerotor pump? I think you are getting hosed by this guy. You don't want him pulling the pan because the gasket is also a windage tray and I suspect that alone is going to cost you a bunch. The oil pump pickup runs the full length of the pan, from the sump to the oil pump at the front.
Here is a picture of the engine. Notice the location of the oil pump. Sorry there isn't a better picture of the timing chain. What makes you believe thee is something wrong with the timing? Require that they return all the pieces that are replaced. None of this stuff is returned for a deposit.View attachment 537448

The oil pump stand-offs can very well be chewed up by a timing chain that's loose,or the guide has gone to hell. The pump is in front of the chain,and uses stand-offs to hold it away from the block and chain.
If you'd brothered to look at the OP's picture in post #15,you'd have seen the oil pump stand off is just about wore through from the chain