Towing with the new setup: Bilsteins + TTC-1223 + Toyo 275/65R20

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BoldAdventure

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Got everything hitched up today to take the Airstream to get washed. Our 10 day count down till we leave for our full time adventure starts tomorrow. We'll be towing the Airstream from place to place, generally only staying at one place for one to two weeks at a time. So consistent towing for the next year.

I have Bilsteins 5100s, front and back, with the fronts set to 2.8 and out back I ditched the OE coils and Airlift 1000 bags for the TTC-1223 springs, 50% over OE capacity. Combined with Toyo Open Country AT/II's (275/65R20).

Unloaded the front sits at 39 1/2 inches and the rear at 43 1/2 inches.

Anyways, photos

IMG_5916.png

IMG_5927.png

The front came up to a full 40 inches and the rear dropped to 42 inches. Adjustments on the WD hitch aren't really making a dent, as the resulting problem, which you can see from the photos is, I need a new drop hitch. Forgot to take measurements afterwards, but believe I'm between 1 1/2 to a full 2 inches too high.

Thinking about getting this Reese drop hitch: Reese Weight Dist Shank - Drop Only - 14" Long - 4-3/4", 6-1/2" Drop - 1,500 lbs TW Reese Accessories and Parts RP63971

I'm pretty impressed with these springs and the ability to maintain rake on the vehicle

IMG_5930.png

Over-all we drove around 20 test miles today, and I'm very happy with the suspension setup. And even the power seems unaffected by the heavier tires. I'm sure it is technically, but perception wise, was another story.

Just need to get that hitch dialed in and adjusted before we leave.

One more the Air Rig and Airstream together.

IMG_5938.png

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AzRamLover

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Stupid question: are the springs/dampers the major limiting factor for bed payload and towing capacity in the near term?

I mean, the frame, bed itself, wheels, tires, axles, etc. are limitations as you continue to increase bed payload and tow load, but are springs/dampers the "short pole" in the tent as far as stock goes?
 

14hemiexpress

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Looks good it gave the truck a whole new stance nice and aggressive that's what I'm looking for! Love it! What are the tire rated E? How to the feel vs the factory tires?
 

The Crow 1994

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Love my Tuff Truck coils, although I have the 1223-V variable rate springs. I would have selected the constant load ones, too, if I were in your situation.

How much weight do you have on the hitch with your Airstream?
 

Zeak

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Looks good. If the front came up 1/2" inch and the rear dropped 1 1/2" how much rake does it have unloaded?
 
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BoldAdventure

BoldAdventure

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How many inches did the new coils raise the truck?

I believe the rear was 40 inches, so close to 3 1/2. They say they will raise the rear 2-4 inches in the product info.

Looks good it gave the truck a whole new stance nice and aggressive that's what I'm looking for! Love it! What are the tire rated E? How to the feel vs the factory tires?

The tires are E-Rated, they are 10-ply 34.10" overall height and 57lbs a piece unmounted.

Overall, when I installed the Bilsteins and had the Wranglers on before the coils went on, it rode just as smoothly as stock, but I feel it handled bumps better, and not nearly as harshly.

When the coils went, on the rear feels a little more firm. Some will say it rides more harshly, but I don't think so.

Combined with the tires now, the truck does feel more truck like, as opposed to stock. It rides firmer over some bumps but at the same time it's still smooth like a Ram going down the highway. Personal opinion here, I think keeping the same width and only going up an inch in size is a contributing factor in keeping close to stock feel. Overall it feels planted.


Love my Tuff Truck coils, although I have the 1223-V variable rate springs. I would have selected the constant load ones, too, if I were in your situation.

How much weight do you have on the hitch with your Airstream?

I almost chose the variables, I might of been of been fine with it. But I know that for the most part, I'll be keeping the bed loaded with a bunch of stuff all the time, like our generator, two gas cans, bunch of hiking/climbing stuff, stroller, tools, etc. So I figure it made sense.

Technically the hitch weight should be about 780lbs, but I need to hit up the scales again and nail down a real weight. I upgraded the batteries from grp size 24 to 27 and the WD/Anti-sway hitch should add some there too. Also we don't have the front mattress in right now, and a few other things that will contribute to tongue weight. But I'll be getting those numbers closer to when we leave as I'm curious.
 
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BoldAdventure

BoldAdventure

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Looks good. If the front came up 1/2" inch and the rear dropped 1 1/2" how much rake does it have unloaded?


Unloaded the front sits at 39 1/2 inches and the rear at 43 1/2 inches.

This much:

2015-04-18%2B08.06.49.jpg

2015-04-17-12.34.32.jpg

For reference, my truck before all suspension mods.

2014-09-0670.png

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14hemiexpress

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Looks great I even like the unloaded look.

What tire pressure are you running and how's the sidewalls feel I'm really hesitatent to get E rated tires as I know the factory wheels aren't designed to hold 80 psi. I have seen the other threads about proper inflation for tires per the weight of the vehicle I would like some real world feed back.
 

Zeak

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Yeah it is sitting up pretty high but I guess that's a good thing since it will spend a lot of time loaded down with the trailer and stuff in the bed.
 

arod412

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Truck sits pretty high...kinda looks higher than mine and i have thr same setup (except for tires). Almost looks like you have a 1 inch body lift, because mine doesnt look as tall as yours.

I didnt know upgrading coils would make that much of a difference expecially with all that weight in the back. How much weight total do you have (trailer +truck and people)?

Truck name: Rampage
2012 Dodge ram 1500 Quad Cab Big Horn 4x4
*Bilstein 2.8" front
*Bilstein shocks on rear with 1" spacer
*Pioneer AVH 4300DVD head unit
*Polk Audio Dxi350 dash speakers
*Kicker 40CSS654 6 1/2" door speakers (x4)
*fox box 2-12" speakers holder for rear seats
*2-12" alpine subs (swe -1243l
*500 watt alpine mono sub
*LED 3rd tail light smoked
*Spyder LED smokes tail lights
havent even started on the engine..lol
 
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BoldAdventure

BoldAdventure

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Looks great I even like the unloaded look.

What tire pressure are you running and how's the sidewalls feel I'm really hesitatent to get E rated tires as I know the factory wheels aren't designed to hold 80 psi. I have seen the other threads about proper inflation for tires per the weight of the vehicle I would like some real world feed back.

Yeah I think the factory 20's have a max around 65psi, no one has nailed down a source on the info though.

I don't run 80psi. And I'm running 45psi now and it seems smooth. I might try 50psi when I tow, I think two others are running that. By default the larger tires are usually going to be LT's and closer to E load range unless you pick something more obscure.

Still working on my build thread, but we are planning a fair amount of off-roading so I wanted 10ply for that reason as well. I didn't go straight to 35s like others, to spare MPG's and keep it closer to stock while giving it a bit of an edge over stock. Well, that's my thinking anyways.
 

xrsman

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Wow I'm impressed with how little squat you have with those springs! Looks good!
 

14hemiexpress

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Yeah I think the factory 20's have a max around 65psi, no one has nailed down a source on the info though.

I don't run 80psi. And I'm running 45psi now and it seems smooth. I might try 50psi when I tow, I think two others are running that. By default the larger tires are usually going to be LT's and closer to E load range unless you pick something more obscure.

Still working on my build thread, but we are planning a fair amount of off-roading so I wanted 10ply for that reason as well. I didn't go straight to 35s like others, to spare MPG's and keep it closer to stock while giving it a bit of an edge over stock. Well, that's my thinking anyways.


Very good info as I want to do bilstines at 1.4 and 1in rear blocks (or ttc spring maybe the 25% ones) and 275 65 20 as well so a very similar to what I want thanks for shareing.
 

smurfs_of_war

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Stupid question: are the springs/dampers the major limiting factor for bed payload and towing capacity in the near term?

I mean, the frame, bed itself, wheels, tires, axles, etc. are limitations as you continue to increase bed payload and tow load, but are springs/dampers the "short pole" in the tent as far as stock goes?

I am not a chassis engineer, but from what I have taken in from talking to techs, engineers, and such- yes. The reason being is the GVWR (payload) is to an extent a rating based on handling, stopping and acceleration characteristics under loaded conditions for a single vehicle. Past that point, the vehicle will not meet certain handling and stopping characteristics. Much of this has to do with spring rates etc.

You would be alarmed at how much weight it takes to yield a modern frame construction- C channel or boxed. Your axles are rated to 3900lbs which is on par with most 1500/150 series half tons. By law your OEM wheels and tires cannot handle less weight combined than your axle can handle.

this is only my opinion based on the information I have gathered. That doesn't mean it's right, but it makes sense.
 

AzRamLover

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I am not a chassis engineer, but from what I have taken in from talking to techs, engineers, and such- yes. The reason being is the GVWR (payload) is to an extent a rating based on handling, stopping and acceleration characteristics under loaded conditions for a single vehicle. Past that point, the vehicle will not meet certain handling and stopping characteristics. Much of this has to do with spring rates etc.

You would be alarmed at how much weight it takes to yield a modern frame construction- C channel or boxed. Your axles are rated to 3900lbs which is on par with most 1500/150 series half tons. By law your OEM wheels and tires cannot handle less weight combined than your axle can handle.

this is only my opinion based on the information I have gathered. That doesn't mean it's right, but it makes sense.

Cool - thanks!
 

Bombdigitty

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Yeah I think the factory 20's have a max around 65psi, no one has nailed down a source on the info though.

I don't run 80psi. And I'm running 45psi now and it seems smooth. I might try 50psi when I tow, I think two others are running that. By default the larger tires are usually going to be LT's and closer to E load range unless you pick something more obscure.

Still working on my build thread, but we are planning a fair amount of off-roading so I wanted 10ply for that reason as well. I didn't go straight to 35s like others, to spare MPG's and keep it closer to stock while giving it a bit of an edge over stock. Well, that's my thinking anyways.

I have E rated Snow tires, (Goodyear Ultra Grip ICE) and E rated summer tires (Toyo Open Country Extreme AT2's

I run both at 50 psi. ride is firm. No uneven wear.

I think the weak link for running more PSI would be the valve stems or TPM sensors.

At 80 psi there would be no give to the tire and a really crappy ride for a 1/2 ton
 
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BoldAdventure

BoldAdventure

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So, originally up in the air

IMG_5927.png

Got the new shank and started adjusting:
2015-04-30%2B11.17.38-1.png

Level trailer and truck now.

2015-04-30%2B11.52.21.png

Have towed her a total of 533 miles, from Florida, to Vogel State Park in Georgia. We are now 100% full-time living and working on the road with our two daughters. Moving from place to place. Towed beautifully.

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