Transmission pan bolt

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Chris19

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For those that are curious, I ended up taking it to a shop where they welded a bolt on to get it off, said it was on there pretty tight. Once that was taken care of I proceeded with the transmission service, everything went well. I saw another post in a different forum about doing a complete fluid change that requires you to put on about 500-1000 kilometers, drain and refill the transmission, allowing for the new fluid to cycle into the torque converter. Is this true? And are there any benefits? In regards to the old pan the magnets were pretty covered with metal, the fluid was pretty dark but not burnt. I crawled under a few days later to check for leaks and didn't see anything. Cheers.
 

Wild one

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For those that are curious, I ended up taking it to a shop where they welded a bolt on to get it off, said it was on there pretty tight. Once that was taken care of I proceeded with the transmission service, everything went well. I saw another post in a different forum about doing a complete fluid change that requires you to put on about 500-1000 kilometers, drain and refill the transmission, allowing for the new fluid to cycle into the torque converter. Is this true? And are there any benefits? In regards to the old pan the magnets were pretty covered with metal, the fluid was pretty dark but not burnt. I crawled under a few days later to check for leaks and didn't see anything. Cheers.
It doesn't hurt to do a couple basically back to back drain and fills,you don't have to drive 500 kms though,as long as the transmission gets up to temp,it'll have cycled everything pretty well by then.
 
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Chris19

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You did jack up the rear of the truck to get the tranny pan 'level' when you veriied the final fluid level, right?
Yes, when I swapped the pan out I had the truck up on all 4 corners to give more clearance. Once that was done, I lowered the front back down on the tires (with them blocked off) so I could lift the rear end, get the pan level, and fill it.
 
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Chris19

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So I’m more than likely going to drain and refill the transmission. What are some tips or tricks to get the drain plug out considering it’s directly behind the crossover pipe. I’m planning on removing the transmission support bolts, but is it enough to get an Allen in there.
 

Barr2255

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So I’m more than likely going to drain and refill the transmission. What are some tips or tricks to get the drain plug out considering it’s directly behind the crossover pipe. I’m planning on removing the transmission support bolts, but is it enough to get an Allen in there.
Drain plug should come right out without removing anything or jacking up the trans. Mine does. If yours has a bit tight of tolerance maybe just cut the Allen key so it’s lower profile? Allen’s are cheap. Spill the fluid on the pipe. After drained spray it down with brake clean. I’ve done two services on my truck with the 8 speed. First time was the pan and then like you, I put a few miles on it and drained and refill.
 

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I cut down an allen key for mine, 10mm I believe.

Just had to loosen it enough to drain, and the exhaust crossover cleaned right up with some brakleen on a rag.
 

joesstripclub

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So I’m more than likely going to drain and refill the transmission. What are some tips or tricks to get the drain plug out considering it’s directly behind the crossover pipe. I’m planning on removing the transmission support bolts, but is it enough to get an Allen in there.
Like others said, sacrifice a 10mm allen key and cut about half the short end off. You dont need to touch the transmission supports this way. It will drain onto the exhaust, but the flat spot in the pipe actually helps direct the fluid when it drains.
 

jr27236

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Put the bolts back in on each side of it and tighten them and then work on the one that is stuck. I would use a small micro torch on it as it is possible someone used thread locker on it in the past possibly?
 

1999 White C5 Coupe

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Like others said, sacrifice a 10mm allen key and cut about half the short end off. You dont need to touch the transmission supports this way. It will drain onto the exhaust, but the flat spot in the pipe actually helps direct the fluid when it drains.



Simply put a doubled piece of aluminum foil over the exhaust pipe, and allow the fluid to drain over the foil and into the catch container. Then wipe off the excess of the foil and dispose of the foil.
 

RamInfo

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Drain plug should come right out without removing anything or jacking up the trans. Mine does. If yours has a bit tight of tolerance maybe just cut the Allen key so it’s lower profile? Allen’s are cheap. Spill the fluid on the pipe. After drained spray it down with brake clean. I’ve done two services on my truck with the 8 speed. First time was the pan and then like you, I put a few miles on it and drained and refill.
No cleanup necessary if you wrap the exhaust pipe with aluminum foil before draining the trans.

Best,
RI
 

rzr6-4

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FYI, Brake cleaner uses dangerous renditions of alcohol. I stopped using it in all but some very light touch up cleaning. A fellow lifer mechanic told me that he uses Dawn liquid cut 50/50 in water in spritzer bottles. I started doing that and using the Dawn Platinum stuff! The results are both very good AND way more wallet friendly! HTH!

To the contrary, it is Tetrachloroethylene based. Nasty stuff, known carcinogen. Great cleaner though, better than alcohols.
 

RamDiver

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So, Chlorine is better than alcohol.... yeah.

The foil idea sounds like the ideal solution but, Dawn and water are fabulous for breaking down grease or oil.

Any of the experienced dive charter boat operators always had a bottle available for those divers who found oil in the shipwrecks.

I've cleaned up dive buddies, so I know it works quite well.

What do you think they use to clean up wildlife during oil spills?

.
 

Sherman Bird

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The foil idea sounds like the ideal solution but, Dawn and water are fabulous for breaking down grease or oil.

Any of the experienced dive charter boat operators always had a bottle available for those divers who found oil in the shipwrecks.

I've cleaned up dive buddies, so I know it works quite well.

What do you think they use to clean up wildlife during oil spills?

.
I recently had a theory. So, I tried it. I was replacing GDI injectors on a 3.3L V-6 engine in a late model KIA. This vehicle had the usual intake valve carbon deposits, and those deposits were heavy.

So, I grabbed my equipment and commenced to blasting the carbon deposits with walnut shell media.
Problem was, the raw gas from the injector failure had made part of the deposits a thick, gooey consistency, such that when I blasted the first 2 cylinders, I got a nasty sludgy mix that made a difficult mess to contend with.

After finish-cleaning one cylinder manually with brake cleaner, the results were so-so, at best, and the fumes from the chemical overcame me, so I finished the first cylinder with a dual element respirator rated for chlorine and ammonia gas.

I thought to myself that there might be a more "eco-friendly" not to mention salubrious way to accomplish cleaning the remaining 5 cylinders. It "dawned" on me (pun intended) to try soaking the remaining cylinders with that Dawn Platinum cleaner, so, I tried it.

I allowed the Dawn to soak overnight, and the next morning, I was flabbergasted that the remaining carbon in the other cylinders had dissolved to the point that all I had to do was clean the mess up using paper towels to soak up most of the solution, followed by a little bit of using a pick on some small spots and a small rinse of water.

The cylinders all looked brand new, I finished replacing the injectors, and all is well! Needless to say, the experiment worked exceptionally well. To me, the use of something less dangerous than the chlorine based chemical or an alcohol based chemical is a huge win for my health!

PPE and hazards aside, it was WAY cheaper, too. And Dawn isn't a fire hazard, to boot.
BTW: The NIH report on tetrachlorethylene is pretty sobering. Boring to read, but succinct.
 
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