Travel trailer

[TigreST]

Beware of another weight gents. Tonque Weight: Check the video link:


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[Chgr1]

I'm new here but currently we are towing a 33 ft travel trailer with a GVWR of 8995# and a tongue weight of 1200#. We are using an Equalizer WDH 1400/14000 unit. We were towing with a 2002 Ram 5.9L CTD SB SRW 4x4 3.55 gears. The old Ram specs are 8800 GVWR, 16,000# GCWR, Max trailer weight 9,450# with a payload rating of 2,380#. Now that's Dodge numbers. We are over on our GCWR but well within our payload numbers and max trailer weight. Now if my Dodge had 4.10 gears and everything else the same my rating would go up to 12,380# tow limit. Again that is Dodge numbers for my specific truck.


The old Ram did a great job towing the rig. We now have a new Ram 3500 but are stepping up to a 37 ft heavy 5th wheel using a B&W Companion 5th hitch and MORryde pin box.

In the RV industry their published tongue weights are dry weights with no battery or full propane tanks and sometimes are not close to being accurate. You are much better off using 12-15% of a travel trailers GVWR to calculate an estimated loaded tongue weight. Make sure your hitch and truck receiver ratings are enough to handle the calculated tongue weight and tow capacity.

Find the numbers for your specific truck. GVWR, GCWR and Payload. On the door jam of your truck will be the payload rating, I would stay with in that number. That is all additional occupants, hitch weight and anything else loaded in the bed of the truck.
Add the GVWR of the trailer and truck to get the GCWR Gross Combined Weight Rating. You should weigh your RV at a cat scale after it is fully loaded for your trip to make sure it isn't over the trailers GVWR. Also do not over look the weight of any fresh water you may carry in the RV. You do not want to over load the trailers tires or axles.

As long as your calculated or cat scale weight numbers are well below your trucks rating, you will be fine. If the numbers are right at the limits of your trucks capability it maybe rough towing. Get a good quality weight distributed hitch with sway control. Balance your load in the trailer. You want more weight on the tongue of the trailer than at the back to help reduce sway. Remember you have to stop that thing so make sure you have a good electric brake controller. Each time you hitch do a rolling brake check to make sure the trailer brakes are working and adjust the controller as necessary.

Just some thoughts I have

 

[VernDiesel]

MoparFin. If you don’t have long moutain grades and say 7K plus altitude it should do fine with 6,500. Mind you it will pull 7,200 on a flat but 6 or 6.5k would be a lot more comfortable for you & that drivetrain. Plus one longer trip a summer not a big deal full timing it 6.5k & more would wear parts.

You should look at TTs with a GVWR of the same 7,200 or less. Generally add 1,000 pounds to the dry weight for estimated wet or camp ready weight. TT batteries, propane, some water, & all the crap you are both going to stock it with.