Upgraded brakes.... Are any of you running anything special on the fronts?

[cableguy_hd]

Dropped off my truck today to get the front brakes looked at. I had a funny feeling through the pedal I didn't like. I had bought new pads to use but I was told my rotors were a littler warped but the pads lookes fine. So I know rotors can't be turned but once maybe twice, what can I upgrade to?? Only have 21k miles. I'm hard on the brakes even when unloaded. I asked about pads in another section and got some the were recommend I just didnt ask about rotors.

 

[sbarron]

Unfortunately, big brake kits for our trucks seem to be like leprechauns or unicorns. I've seen a few threads regarding installing Jeep SRT brake packages on Rams but it seems like there's a lot of issues and results are mixed.

Maybe someone has found something and will chime in.

 

[Dubstep Shep]

Jeep brakes won't fit.

The sad fact is that you'd need specs for the holes on the spindle and a way to match that against a variety of calipers to find a winner.

 

[cableguy_hd]

I've seen slotted and drilled but didn't know if they were any better. They are high as hell I do know that....

 

[charonblk07]

Brake upgrade possibilities:

Big brake kit upgrades: SSBC (3- and 4- piston calipers available), Behr, Rotora
Rotor/pad upgrades: EBC Sport Rotors/Green- Orange-stuff pads
Master Cylinder upgrade: Swap out vacuum booster to hydro-boost

 

[sbarron]

Brake upgrade possibilities:

Big brake kit upgrades: SSBC (3- and 4- piston calipers available), Behr, Rotora
Rotor/pad upgrades: EBC Sport Rotors/Green- Orange-stuff pads
Master Cylinder upgrade: Swap out vacuum booster to hydro-boost

Good stuff charonblk07!!! thanks.

 

[14hemiexpress]

I think cross drilled and slotted/dimpled rotors and a good set of ebc pads would help nothing like a big brake kit but the corss drilled rotors should help reduce heat build up.

 

[Dubstep Shep]

The hydro boost doesn't actually upgrade your braking ability, it just decreases petal effort.

 

[cableguy_hd]

Brake upgrade possibilities:

Big brake kit upgrades: SSBC (3- and 4- piston calipers available), Behr, Rotora
Rotor/pad upgrades: EBC Sport Rotors/Green- Orange-stuff pads
Master Cylinder upgrade: Swap out vacuum booster to hydro-boost

What kind of $ are you looking at for something like this?

 

[charonblk07]

The hydro boost doesn't actually upgrade your braking ability, it just decreases petal effort.

My hydroboost is ~30% increase in clamping force over the vacuum booster with stock pads and rotors. Pedal effort is the same with better stopping ability even with the same EBC pads/rotors. The down side is I experience brake fade sooner when I'm pushing it hard through corners because more heat is generated and the stock calipers/rotors can't shed it fast enough.

What kind of $ are you looking at for something like this?

Depends on what route you go. The big brake kits go from $1600 - $7000 depending on the kit. EBC pads/rotors are a $600 upgrade and are doing just fine stopping my 95lb 22" wheel/tire combo even before the blown setup. The hydroboost and hoses cost me $200 at the junk yard out of a diesel but it's a more involved install. I sold my SSBC kits when I got the hydroboost because I didn't need the added braking ability after I installed the hydroboost and I can still run 17" wheels for the winter or at the drag strip.

 

[Sitedrifter]

Do not waste your money on drilled rotors. Slotted are fine and make sure you get a quality brand with quality pads.

 

[Dubstep Shep]

Uhhh, if you can lock up your brakes, you don't need more clamping force.

I bet you can set of ABS when you put your foot to the floor at almost any speed.

 

[charonblk07]

Uhhh, if you can lock up your brakes, you don't need more clamping force.

I bet you can set of ABS when you put your foot to the floor at almost any speed.

Add another 30+lb of rotating mass to each wheel and an extra 70km/hr top speed and see if extra clamping force is a plus or not. More rotating mass needs more clamping force or the same clamping force on a larger diameter rotor, plain and simple, if you want to stop in the same distance as stock. I have never locked up my brakes and ABS never activates unless I'm skidding on ice in the winter; having the extra clamping force is a HUGE advantage and why I was running the 3-piston SSBC kit originally and removed them when I went to the hydro booster. With the blower I only generate 12inmg at idle which is barely enough for a vacuum booster to operate, another plus for the hydro booster.

 

[cableguy_hd]

I was thinking more of longevity than stopping power but they may go hand in hand. Also sure my driving style plays a part in it. I cant drop a couple grand into brakes.

 

[charonblk07]

I was thinking more of longevity than stopping power but they may go hand in hand. Also sure my driving style plays a part in it. I cant drop a couple grand into brakes.

Go with the pad and rotor upgrade, it makes a difference over stock and the Greenstuff 7000 series are a very long lasting pad for the fronts (6000 series for the rear). I have put both my trucks through autocross and high speed mountain driving which gets pads/rotors hot in a hurry. The GS pads on my '07 had 60,000kms on them when the truck was wrecked with lots of material left. My next pad change will probably try out the Orangestuff pads because it's a new material formulation better suited to heavy towing and racing.

 

[Dubstep Shep]

Add another 30+lb of rotating mass to each wheel and an extra 70km/hr top speed and see if extra clamping force is a plus or not. More rotating mass needs more clamping force or the same clamping force on a larger diameter rotor, plain and simple, if you want to stop in the same distance as stock. I have never locked up my brakes and ABS never activates unless I'm skidding on ice in the winter; having the extra clamping force is a HUGE advantage and why I was running the 3-piston SSBC kit originally and removed them when I went to the hydro booster. With the blower I only generate 12inmg at idle which is barely enough for a vacuum booster to operate, another plus for the hydro booster.

Ahhh, that's the difference then, you produce far less vac.

I was going to say, I've hit ABS doing 120 with minimal petal effort. Sitting with the truck off I had a good two more inches of travel.

 

[charonblk07]

Ahhh, that's the difference then, you produce far less vac.

I was going to say, I've hit ABS doing 120 with minimal petal effort. Sitting with the truck off I had a good two more inches of travel.

I also did specify in one of my earlier posts that I had the same setup on the vacuum booster before the blower and same results when I was pulling 22inmg on the stock engine at idle. Also, coming off boost with the throttle body closed I make 20inmg when I start braking, so no, it's not the difference since the vacuum booster only needs 14inmg to activate fully. Being able to brake stand/boost launch is an advantage of the hydro booster over the vacuum booster where no/low vacuum becomes an issue with the blown setup.

If you're hitting the ABS at 120 then you need to practice threshold braking techniques, you should never rely on ABS wholly, I'll always stop in a shorter distance when threshold braking than the ABS ever will. I demonstrate this to many of my students in the collision avoidance classes I teach. The rapid ABS pulsing is also a great way to wear out rotors faster compared to threshold braking techniques.

 

[Dubstep Shep]

I also did specify in one of my earlier posts that I had the same setup on the vacuum booster before the blower and same results when I was pulling 22inmg on the stock engine at idle. Also, coming off boost with the throttle body closed I make 20inmg when I start braking, so no, it's not the difference since the vacuum booster only needs 14inmg to activate fully. Being able to brake stand/boost launch is an advantage of the hydro booster over the vacuum booster where no/low vacuum becomes an issue with the blown setup.

If you're hitting the ABS at 120 then you need to practice threshold braking techniques, you should never rely on ABS wholly, I'll always stop in a shorter distance when threshold braking than the ABS ever will. I demonstrate this to many of my students in the collision avoidance classes I teach. The rapid ABS pulsing is also a great way to wear out rotors faster compared to threshold braking techniques.

Oh this was a one time deal. You'll never know your limits if you don't push them.

 

[Bombdigitty]

You could also start by only upgrading the brake lines. Change out the rubber ones for some steel braided ones.

The rubber ones swell which will effect how much pressure your putting to the caliper.

 

[audio1der]

To add to Curtis's point about the rotors, I would "upgrade" to slotted rotors at most. If stockers can't shed heat fast enough when it really counts why would you remove mass from them by drilling them? Pads don't produce gas like old pads did. Better pads and lines will help for sure. That is what I plan on when ours are due for service.