water in rear cab

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ClarkR

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Quick and inexpensive way to stop failing cab vents from leaking water and stop leaves, small branches from going between your rear cab and front box.

Clean all the debris from the flashing at the bottom of your rear cab and front box. It also has the added bonus of limiting or completely stopping water from entering the rear seat under the storage area because of faulty cab vent.

Get 1 piece of foam pipe insulation, non split. Cut it to 66 inches long, 3/4 ID. Use krylon spray paint if you're worried of it standing out too much. Make sure to let it completely dry before installing.

When ready, stand in the box head towards the rear of the cab. Start firmly but not aggressively pushing the sleeve into the void till most is inserted. Make sure to not push too hard or far or it will fall into the recess of the box lip. Remember to center it before stuffing it as it becomes progressively difficult when moving down.

It worked like a charm for my 2015 RAM Big Horn, enjoy
 

heefageLA

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Also check your sliding window seals and 3rd break light seals.

Ill be changing out my third brake light seal this weekend when I install LEDs up there. Ive done it to the last 2 trucks I had and never had an issue. The factory seal is junk. Its basically foam that deteriorates over time.
 

Justin33

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Quick and inexpensive way to stop failing cab vents from leaking water and stop leaves, small branches from going between your rear cab and front box.

Clean all the debris from the flashing at the bottom of your rear cab and front box. It also has the added bonus of limiting or completely stopping water from entering the rear seat under the storage area because of faulty cab vent.

Get 1 piece of foam pipe insulation, non split. Cut it to 66 inches long, 3/4 ID. Use krylon spray paint if you're worried of it standing out too much. Make sure to let it completely dry before installing.

When ready, stand in the box head towards the rear of the cab. Start firmly but not aggressively pushing the sleeve into the void till most is inserted. Make sure to not push too hard or far or it will fall into the recess of the box lip. Remember to center it before stuffing it as it becomes progressively difficult when moving down.

It worked like a charm for my 2015 RAM Big Horn, enjoy
This actually make sense but I’d have to see what you did.
 
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ClarkR

ClarkR

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This actually make sense but I’d have to see what you did.
Nothing to see really, rubberized electrical taped 2 together, cut to length and cleaned the area, stuffing in down as to not go past the top lip of the box defeating the tight fit. Stays in place, during all driving, washes, etc.
 

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GTyankee

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No, i took the bed off to paint the whole truck

Look on YouTube, there are several ways to change out the vents.
First step is to remove the rear seat

type this into your laptop search engine

2016 Ram 1500 replace leaking cab vents
 

Justin33

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Nothing to see really, rubberized electrical taped 2 together, cut to length and cleaned the area, stuffing in down as to not go past the top lip of the box defeating the tight fit. Stays in place, during all driving, washes, etc.
I get it now I thought you had taken that and then cut it to block the can vents so water couldn’t get in.
 

Justin33

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Did you take your bed off to do the vents??
Nope I just did mine today and pushed them from the bottom up into the cab til I got far enough I could reach from inside the cab.
 

railroadman

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Did mine today on a 2015. Ordered off Amazon and they were LEGIT Mopar replacements. Removed the rear seats, popped the old ones out and let them fall between the cab and bed. Took some twine, tied a slip knot on the top of the vent and fished it up between the cab and bed. Took no longer than 2 mins. Removing the seats with nearly 9 years of rust on the bolts was different. All told (due to the rust and half a bottle of PB Blaster about 4hours) not difficult overall. Took the liberty of vacuuming all of the under seat area while it was easy. Over all not difficult, take your time and NISMO Mopar on Amazon is legit as a seller. Better than what the local dealer wanted for the same parts.
 

Yardbird

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Why not just seal off the vents completely and not ever have to worry about the problem again? Vehicles used to not have vents in them....That's what I have been thinking about doing.

I know it would hamper the default fresh air setting, but I always keep the recirculate button pushed anyway.

Just yesterday I found wet bath towels I had stored under my back seat. I guess it was from the deluge we got from Helene.

The cubby they were in was dry as a bone. I guess I have to take the seat and cubby out to see how much water is in the actual floor. The carpet isn't wet though.
 

wallacemf

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I don’t think it’s a good idea to cover them up. They are there to vent the air pressure created when you shut the doors. Look between your cab and bed while shutting a rear door with the windows up- you’ll see them vent that pressure on both sides. In theory, you could blow a window out if you sealed them up.

I just replaced mine last month in my 2018 2500, ruined the carpet under the seats. There was tufts of white fungus growing. I cut it out, and trimmed up an old bed mat that I had to cover the area.
 

Yardbird

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I checked under the cargo retainer under the rear seat, and felt under the carpet in the rear floor board. Both were dry.

It doesn't make sense that two towels stacked under the rear seat in the little cubby holder can be mostly wet, and the bottom of the cubby, and under it on the metal floor, can all be dry.

Oh well. I will keep an eye on it. I see no way to get to these vents from above or below on my truck. The bedliner is on the top, and there is a piece of metal along the frame on bottom between the cab and bed.

A few years ago I could have done something about changing them myself, but not now. If I don't see any more water or wet things, they are staying there.
 

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