What cam to choose..?

[kg93]

I always tend to think ahead and i'm pretty bored tonight

Anyway i'm setting up my truck for offroad capability as most of you know.
37s lifted 4.56s(soon) jba longtubes and so on.

I'm also planning a 2600-2800 converter, either moes 87mm throttlebody or 85mm fastman tb and a edelbrock supercharger..built l&m trans along with that

Now of course i want torque down low for offroading but the roots charger should give me a ton of that right? I dont want to completely overload the trans down low and having to keep rebuilding it...that might get even more expensive

Anyone from your opinions out of the possible cam options what should i go with? oh and i would love a nice lopey idle

Comp, moes, inertia, or green racing

I can list all the stats if needed

 

[kg93]

guess none is the answer?

 

[Saltillo Express]

yeah........

 

[charonblk07]

I always tend to think ahead and i'm pretty bored tonight

Anyway i'm setting up my truck for offroad capability as most of you know.
37s lifted 4.56s(soon) jba longtubes and so on.

I'm also planning a 2600-2800 converter, either moes 87mm throttlebody or 85mm fastman tb and a edelbrock supercharger..built l&m trans along with that

Now of course i want torque down low for offroading but the roots charger should give me a ton of that right? I dont want to completely overload the trans down low and having to keep rebuilding it...that might get even more expensive

Anyone from your opinions out of the possible cam options what should i go with? oh and i would love a nice lopey idle

Comp, moes, inertia, or green racing

I can list all the stats if needed

Since you're planning on going with an edelbrock blower then you will need a custom blower cam. None of the vendors you listed currently have proven blower cam in their 'stock' repertoire for the VVT however Modern Muscle does have one listed and the others could put together a custom grind. Keep in mind that whatever grind you go with will determine everything else in your valvetrain that will need to be modified so don't throw a bunch of stuff in then call up the vendor and ask for a cam to fit 'X' mods. Things like a TC need to be matched to the cam, not the other way around. Also, you do NOT want a lopey idle if you want to have a useful blower cam, you can't have both without sacrificing drivability.


I have the MM blower cam in mine and it should be getting fired up this month with the new blower package I put together.


I will add that since the edelbrock blower is a positive displacement you should be looking for the largest TB you can bolt to it, look at the BBK or Arrington 90mm as a minimum because PD blowers pull the air through the TB versus a centri blower which pushes it through. The TB is the biggest restriction in a PD blower and bigger is definitely better if you want to make real power.

 

[kg93]

Since you're planning on going with an edelbrock blower then you will need a custom blower cam. None of the vendors you listed currently have proven blower cam in their 'stock' repertoire for the VVT however Modern Muscle does have one listed and the others could put together a custom grind. Keep in mind that whatever grind you go with will determine everything else in your valvetrain that will need to be modified so don't throw a bunch of stuff in then call up the vendor and ask for a cam to fit 'X' mods. Things like a TC need to be matched to the cam, not the other way around. Also, you do NOT want a lopey idle if you want to have a useful blower cam, you can't have both without sacrificing drivability.


I have the MM blower cam in mine and it should be getting fired up this month with the new blower package I put together.


I will add that since the edelbrock blower is a positive displacement you should be looking for the largest TB you can bolt to it, look at the BBK or Arrington 90mm as a minimum because PD blowers pull the air through the TB versus a centri blower which pushes it through. The TB is the biggest restriction in a PD blower and bigger is definitely better if you want to make real power.

thank you for that. I'm not sure why it didnt dawn on me that all of those cams are for NA builds rather then a blower.

I was always thinking a 2600-2800 stall for offroading because in all reality i wont be slamming the pedal like im racing down the strip. But i understand what your saying about basically building from the bottom up.

For the tb going with a 90mm or true 87 like the fastman, that wouldn't affect the power down low?

Thats a shame about the lopey cam but i get it

Anyway you think with the blower, bigger tb, custom cam, jba headers no cats would i be pushing a built L&m trans too far with the additional pressure of offroad threw mud and sand?

 

[charonblk07]

thank you for that. I'm not sure why it didnt dawn on me that all of those cams are for NA builds rather then a blower.

I was always thinking a 2600-2800 stall for offroading because in all reality i wont be slamming the pedal like im racing down the strip. But i understand what your saying about basically building from the bottom up.

For the tb going with a 90mm or true 87 like the fastman, that wouldn't affect the power down low?

Thats a shame about the lopey cam but i get it

Anyway you think with the blower, bigger tb, custom cam, jba headers no cats would i be pushing a built L&m trans too far with the additional pressure of offroad threw mud and sand?

You really need to look at what cam grind you end up with. If you want a torque cam then you will sacrifice the top end a bit but if you keep a limited VVT phase then you can get a bit of both worlds which is the benefit of using the VVT over a locked phaser. Regardless of the VVT if the cam you get only starts making power at 3000 rpm then you need a stall that will match which would be a 3400-3800 stall. If you end up with a 2200rpm cam then a 2800-3000 stall would be ideal but the best stall would be determined by running all the numbers by a TC builder who can determine your best stall option and build one to the required specs.

For the TB you would benefit from the larger diameter with the PD blower in a big way. The easiest way to explain it is to take a straw and try to suck air through it then blow air through it and you'll see which is a lot easier to do. There are builds running an 85mm on a centrifugal blower and a 114mm on a PD blower for the same cubic inch displacement engine making the same amount of boost. Also, there are no true bore 87mm TBs out there, there are only 84mm, 85mm, and 90mm, everything else is a ported TB and they have an 80/81mm blade. I would be very interested to see if the Hellcat's 95mm will bolt to the Edelbrock blower and wire in to the truck, that would be a great upgrade but you'd need to talk to Dan (fastman) about that thought.

Mike's built a couple of trans holding up behind 1000rwhp, mine's been behind 738rwhp for 3 years and Mike's confident it will hold up to the cog driven F1-A I just bolted in. 37s through mud might be a demand but if it's geared properly you shouldn't be in a bad spot when it comes to the trans but I would highly advise running an independent trans cooler with an auxiliary fan because most mudding is low speed so you don't have the same high speed cooling you'd get driving on the highway or at the strip.

 

[kg93]

Thank you for the excellent input! Definitely helps me out! now just to make some money to pay for all of this hahah

 

[charonblk07]

Thank you for the excellent input! Definitely helps me out! now just to make some money to pay for all of this hahah

Anytime, I'm a pro at spending other people's money and it's the same problem that the rest of us have; I just have to hide money in my mattress so the wife can't find it.

 

[kg93]

actually one last question for you before i forget and have to ask later. How much will the stock pistons/block/other internals hold?
Worth getting it built before, or would i be able to wait till a good while after?

 

[charonblk07]

actually one last question for you before i forget and have to ask later. How much will the stock pistons/block/other internals hold?
Worth getting it built before, or would i be able to wait till a good while after?

Stock pistons will handle 7-8psi all day and they are the weak link with the thin upper ring land; with water **** that can be taken to 10-12psi with a very good tune but you're playing with fire and any amount of lean condition will pop that ring land and throw shrapnel into the engine which you might get lucky and just have to replace a head and piston but most times it's a catastrophic failure. Unfortunately nobody makes a drop-in piston for the 5.7L so you have to change the whole rotating assembly out for a forged one. I did mine a little on the cheap side and used a oem 6.1L crank which is forged from the factory and just replaced the rods and pistons with Manley ones. The block will handle all the boost you can throw at it, you'll need to run head studs over 8 psi and preferably a better head gasket.

If you change pistons keep in mind what valve lift you will have because you can get them notched for valve reliefs and can run a higher lift cam which will flow more air.

The edelbrock blower will only make 7 psi unless you start doing a pulley swap and new tuning anyways so you will be fine just bolting it on.

 

[kg93]

thanks again!

 

[H8Speed]

I have a greene racing Stage 2 in my truck and I love it,huge difference mid to top end.Kinda sluggish under about 2000 rpms,but it's designed for a convertor anyway,just waiting on a good one to come out for the 8 speeds.Jay just came out with a low lift version of the stage 2 that doesn't even require springs,so not having have springs or phaser limiter makes it a good bit cheaper than other cam's.

 

[charonblk07]

I have a greene racing Stage 2 in my truck and I love it,huge difference mid to top end.Kinda sluggish under about 2000 rpms,but it's designed for a convertor anyway,just waiting on a good one to come out for the 8 speeds.Jay just came out with a low lift version of the stage 2 that doesn't even require springs,so not having have springs or phaser limiter makes it a good bit cheaper than other cam's.

It's also not a blower cam which is what the OP was asking about, you don't want to use a N/A cam for a blown application if you're going through the much higher cost of a VVT cam swap.

 

[H8Speed]

With 18 degree split it's more of a blower cam then any of the others with 4-8 degree splits.Jay would do a custom grind for a blower application regardless,the large split is because eagle heads have a 55% IE ratio. And the stock cam is 17 degrees and a cam in a car 22