What did you do to/with your second gen today?

[Okiespaniel]

Wow!
Some people gotta learn the hard way. Plus as the old saying goes, there's more than one way to skin a cat. Some need to let it go. Arguing with strangers on the internet is like punching your face to spite your foot.

A. You won't get any gain from an aftermarket coil over a stock one. But if you like red or yellow colored parts on your engine, buy what suits you.

B. MSD boxes are and still are, designed to promote low speed response. Back in the day, high overlap cams and large carburetors would dump fuel into cylinders that would not effectively ignite, causing engines to load up and have poor throttle response. The MSD box would provide multiple spark pulses that would ignite those poor fuel air mixtures at low to mid range rpms. After say 2500 rpm ( or where ever the box was set), the multiple pulses would go away as the air fuel mixtures would stabilize and engine vacuum would catch up to the cam. Plus your engine rpm would be quicker than the pulses could be fired.
I know of a couple of guys back in the day, when these trucks were "new", that ran MSD boxes off roading. They supposedly improved throttle response at low speeds which were perfect for rock crawling. Because of the design of the EFI system, and the limitations of the MSD, you probably won't see any huge gains on a stock truck.

C. I can't comment on different brands of throttle bodies. Unlike a carburetor or TBI, a throttle body on a 2nd gen is a pretty "dumb" device. It's a sensor mounting platform with two metering plates. Only the MAP sensor is vacuum driven, everything else is dependent on the throttle shaft position.
I run a throttle body that many people don't care for. But I can assure you it functions as it should. I also run an air cleaner that a lot of people don't buy into either. But throttle response is pretty instantaneous compared to my previous setup, and my truck accelerates harder up to shift point with the new TB. Does that mean it makes beau coup horsepower? No. But it's sure doing something.

D.I wouldn't do any engine mods without having a programmer to work with. Max gains won't be realized.

Experience is a great teacher, but it can be expensive and painful. Some people just like pain though and want to walk through the same path of broken and abandoned parts. So be it!

And I'm out!

 

[Neo299]

Wow!
Some people gotta learn the hard way. Plus as the old saying goes, there's more than one way to skin a cat. Some need to let it go. Arguing with strangers on the internet is like punching your face to spite your foot.

A. You won't get any gain from an aftermarket coil over a stock one. But if you like red or yellow colored parts on your engine, buy what suits you.

B. MSD boxes are and still are, designed to promote low speed response. Back in the day, high overlap cams and large carburetors would dump fuel into cylinders that would not effectively ignite, causing engines to load up and have poor throttle response. The MSD box would provide multiple spark pulses that would ignite those poor fuel air mixtures at low to mid range rpms. After say 2500 rpm ( or where ever the box was set), the multiple pulses would go away as the air fuel mixtures would stabilize and engine vacuum would catch up to the cam. Plus your engine rpm would be quicker than the pulses could be fired.
I know of a couple of guys back in the day, when these trucks were "new", that ran MSD boxes off roading. They supposedly improved throttle response at low speeds which were perfect for rock crawling. Because of the design of the EFI system, and the limitations of the MSD, you probably won't see any huge gains on a stock truck.

C. I can't comment on different brands of throttle bodies. Unlike a carburetor or TBI, a throttle body on a 2nd gen is a pretty "dumb" device. It's a sensor mounting platform with two metering plates. Only the MAP sensor is vacuum driven, everything else is dependent on the throttle shaft position.
I run a throttle body that many people don't care for. But I can assure you it functions as it should. I also run an air cleaner that a lot of people don't buy into either. But throttle response is pretty instantaneous compared to my previous setup, and my truck accelerates harder up to shift point with the new TB. Does that mean it makes beau coup horsepower? No. But it's sure doing something.

D.I wouldn't do any engine mods without having a programmer to work with. Max gains won't be realized.

Experience is a great teacher, but it can be expensive and painful. Some people just like pain though and want to walk through the same path of broken and abandoned parts. So be it!

And I'm out!

To me any gains are good. The power on this truck sucks balls. Even 20 to 30 more overall would be good. Spending several thousand to put a turbo or blower on is just about as possible for me to afford as a trip to the moon. The same goes for putting a cam in. I can’t do the kind of work myself so that is out as well. Also what is done has to be done in one weekend because I have no backup vehicles and need it everyday nor can I afford a different vehicle. The MSD boxes keep firing up to max rpm and instead of getting sparks every few turns you get one every time. I am not expecting 15 hp just by putting an MSD on. What I am looking for is the gains after everything is done.

For example: cold air intakes don’t do anything by themselves. Where they work is when an intake manifold, TB, headers, and exhaust are also done. I am planning on doing a programmer as well. So don’t think I am just throwing a few hundred at it expecting 45 hp. I know better than that. I am not just installing an MSD ignition. I am also doing new cap, rotor, performance wires, and higher output coil. This goes along with everything else I have planned.

I am not ok with the 75 hp at 2000 rpm. I have seen dynos of low mileage 5.2 1500 rams and that is the power. To climb a hill in my town I have to drop 3 gears and no nothing is wrong. Everything is functioning fine. So unless I sell a kidney or one of my kids I won’t be able to get a turbo or blower or a cam. If I can’t do it myself I most like won’t do it.


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[dapepper9]

Get a tune from tuner of choice and the VRP keg plates from utahesome. Total cost sub $450 and will more than exceed your stated goals

 

[EvilSpirit]

Came out to find coolant dripping onto pavement. Cracked cap back to first click to relieve pressure. Leak stopped. Didn't leak the next several stops. Temp gauge normal. Still have heat. Called it a day.

Probably the most cost effective (temporary) fix ever.

 

[EvilSpirit]

Sorry - multiple posts.

 

[EvilSpirit]

Need a delete feature on here.

 

[Okiespaniel]

To me any gains are good. The power on this truck sucks balls. Even 20 to 30 more overall would be good. Spending several thousand to put a turbo or blower on is just about as possible for me to afford as a trip to the moon. The same goes for putting a cam in. I can’t do the kind of work myself so that is out as well. Also what is done has to be done in one weekend because I have no backup vehicles and need it everyday nor can I afford a different vehicle. The MSD boxes keep firing up to max rpm and instead of getting sparks every few turns you get one every time. I am not expecting 15 hp just by putting an MSD on. What I am looking for is the gains after everything is done.

For example: cold air intakes don’t do anything by themselves. Where they work is when an intake manifold, TB, headers, and exhaust are also done. I am planning on doing a programmer as well. So don’t think I am just throwing a few hundred at it expecting 45 hp. I know better than that. I am not just installing an MSD ignition. I am also doing new cap, rotor, performance wires, and higher output coil. This goes along with everything else I have planned.

I am not ok with the 75 hp at 2000 rpm. I have seen dynos of low mileage 5.2 1500 rams and that is the power. To climb a hill in my town I have to drop 3 gears and no nothing is wrong. Everything is functioning fine. So unless I sell a kidney or one of my kids I won’t be able to get a turbo or blower or a cam. If I can’t do it myself I most like won’t do it.


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Well...
I hate to burst yer bubble (and waste more bandwidth) but your 75 hp at 2k will be about 90 hp, if you're lucky. Yup, but go ahead and buy the parts. Put them...and be disappointed. You'll join the rest.

Mods don't add power cumulatively. That's the fallacy that has made many people in the industry wealthy. For instance, your intake and exhaust....about 13 hp at 3000 rpm. High perf wires and coil...zip, unless the components they replaced were shot. Headers, maybe 20 hp around 3k TB, maybe the same.

These engines were never built to make big horsepower. They produce a reliable amount of torque at an RPM suited for a truck engine, at the time the leading competitors were building similar engines and their styling hadn't been updated in years. Oh, and gas? It was .85 a gallon. That's 85 cents.

You'd really be better regearing and enjoy the torque increase. MSD boxes do what they do, supply a multispark discharge and low crank speeds. They've done that since the late 1970's.

Please don't quote me again. It wastes my time. There's learning curve, some of us start closer to the bottom.

If you want to start a new thread in performance, that'd be the place to do it. This thread is for people that have installed something.

 

[Neo299]

I have done plenty of work on my truck myself. If you want to be an ******* be one somewhere else. Besides it is my money to spend how I wish. And it works like this: 5 hp from this and 15 from that and 2 from that and 3 from this other thing and 20 from that and throw on a tuner and before you know it it adds up. It is called math. If that **** didn’t do anything then nobody would use them including me racers. Don’t waste air being angry because you don’t want me spending my money. This whole thing started because I was just asking about what would be a good coil and that is it. I wasn’t asking anything else. This place is supposed to provide good peer answers and advice. I simply asked a question and everyone got bent out of shape. So I did my own research. I have decided to push those upgrades back until I get some others done. Gibson Stainless headers to go with my exhaust that is getting done. Again my money.

You say it won’t help and others on other forums have said it makes a huge difference so bang it out with them. You aren’t the end all be all of performance knowledge. You think you are an expert in these few things because you tried it and the seat of your pants feeling said it didn’t do squat. That doesn’t make you right or wrong it just give you knowledge on your particular certain circumstances and vehicle. I am not expecting miracles here. I just happen to be willing to pay more for my hp. The kegger Intake mod is a great idea however I can’t afford that much down time and I can’t weld nor am I completely comfortable tearing it off myself.

Be a human being and grow up.


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[EvilSpirit]

You can throw all the mods in the world into the longblock, hang all the snazzy trinkets and wazzoos on the outside and not really make much more power, simply because the kegger intake is the biggest restriction. And personally I don't give that much merit to the intake mod that welds the plate in to decrease the plenium volume, since that area isn't the biggest issue in those intakes - the small runners are. Many "improvements" to the keggers simply move the powerband around without really increasing power. But by all means, do as you wish. Good luck with your project.

 

[dapepper9]

I have done plenty of work on my truck myself. If you want to be an ******* be one somewhere else. Besides it is my money to spend how I wish. And it works like this: 5 hp from this and 15 from that and 2 from that and 3 from this other thing and 20 from that and throw on a tuner and before you know it it adds up. It is called math. If that **** didn’t do anything then nobody would use them including me racers. Don’t waste air being angry because you don’t want me spending my money. This whole thing started because I was just asking about what would be a good coil and that is it. I wasn’t asking anything else. This place is supposed to provide good peer answers and advice. I simply asked a question and everyone got bent out of shape. So I did my own research. I have decided to push those upgrades back until I get some others done. Gibson Stainless headers to go with my exhaust that is getting done. Again my money.

You say it won’t help and others on other forums have said it makes a huge difference so bang it out with them. You aren’t the end all be all of performance knowledge. You think you are an expert in these few things because you tried it and the seat of your pants feeling said it didn’t do squat. That doesn’t make you right or wrong it just give you knowledge on your particular certain circumstances and vehicle. I am not expecting miracles here. I just happen to be willing to pay more for my hp. The kegger Intake mod is a great idea however I can’t afford that much down time and I can’t weld nor am I completely comfortable tearing it off myself.

Be a human being and grow up.


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He wasn't being an ******* nor was i. We've been trying to help. We're not angry you want to spend your money. Pretty sure i can speak for everybody here and say we don't care if you spend money or not. HOWEVER, what we've been saying has been in an effort to help. We've all purchased and done things that didn't produce a benefit or at least didn't have a real return on investment. Whether that investment is time or money, when you invest something you tend to want it to have been worth the investment. As somebody who has done all the MSD and ignition stuff you're talking about doing, i can tell you it doesn't do ****. Sure for 1500rpm it might rev a little quicker from the "MULTIPLE SPARK DISCHARGE" box but nothing is shown on a track, on a dyno or at the pump. What it DOES do is add complexity and new points of failure to a pretty simple and sturdy system that already works perfectly fine for 90% of builds on these engines. I have an MSD box. Yeah the hookup was easy but driving around it changed nothing. Then when my coil died a week later i just unhooked everything and went back to the stock ignition. Again, no difference in driving.

The thing is, you posted a question and didn't get the answer you wanted to hear. On other forums, people have given the answer you wanted while lacking experience, experiencing placebo, or have a different setup in a different climate with different needs. Some people will say that MSD box turned their truck into an animal. They also say a throttlebody spacer was one of their best modifications and that felt like 30hp and they gained 2mpg from nowhere. What people "feel" is completely unreliable information. There's nothing quantifiable about it. Now actual data on the other hand, that is quantifiable. The data will show 1 of 3 three things: increase, decline, or no change. In the case here, no change is what is supported by data. Yes the spark is stronger but unless you have issues with weak spark or an engine creating too much cylinder pressure for the spark available, you won't gain anything.

As for horsepower numbers added from different parts, it doesn't add up like most think. For example, a cold air intake company claims 15hp gain, throttlebody company claims 10, headers 20, basic programmer 35. Throwing all that on there doesn't necessarily equal an 80hp gain. It could more sure, from all of it helping the others work better and more efficiently. But it could also be substantially less. So so often people get worked up and PO'd because "why didn't my vehicle dyno higher?!? I did all this stuff for 100hp and i only got 63!"
The numbers are just for the concept they're not actual real world examples, let me just clarify that too.

Im a "bang for buck" kind of guy. For example, the kegger mod! Yeah, it's free....monetarily.... kinda. The utahesome plates i mentioned are not "the kegger mod". They're a relatively new kegger mod but they're not the one everything online refers to. The whole idea of the original kegger mod was shorter runners for higher rpm performance. Does that work? Yes. But it also has downsides. If you REALLY want to increase kegger performance you need to port the hell out of it. And that too really works and works quite well with the long runners of the keg. However, that's not a free upgrade. You may not pay for the mod in money but you do pay in time...a lot of time. You also pay money for tools that the vast majority of people don't have. You pay in the amount of time your vehicle is now down. I could spend 3 weeks porting and grinding and shaping the keg so it performs to 6000rpm.... or for $600 i could just buy an aftermarket intake, plop it on and have the same performance. It cost money yeah but it saves a ton of time. In this instance, which you have more of and which is more valuable to you is huge.

If you want to save time and improve stuff on the cheap (or relatively cheap), your list will include a 52 to 53mm throttlebody, a tune, and the kegger VRP plates. The plates are something i was against for awhile because plenum volume reduction has been done for years with hardly anything to show for it. VRP stands for Volume Reduction Plate. Well they work but it's not simply volume reduction that makes them work. A very very big part of why they work has to do with the reduction of turbulence and air direction. The volume reduction combined with turbulence reduction makes for higher port velocity. They're $35 and IF they give you even 20lb/ft at the crank, i challenge you to find me more gain per dollar, bolt-on. Gotta change the plenum gasket anyways might as well weld them in while you're there. If you can't weld, find somebody local who can. Might cost $50 to have them weld em in so now you're in it for $85 but i STILL challenge you to find more gain per dollar bolt-on. You really can't. Hell while they're/you're doing that, might as well weld an aluminum plenum plate in and never worry about it again lol.

I know, it sounds like im really pumping up a product and i don't mean to, it's just an example. Also i know im rambling so at this point im done. Anything more should be in a Performance section thread.

You can throw all the mods in the world into the longblock, hang all the snazzy trinkets and wazzoos on the outside and not really make much more power, simply because the kegger intake is the biggest restriction. And personally I don't give that much merit to the intake mod that welds the plate in to decrease the plenium volume, since that area isn't the biggest issue in those intakes - the small runners are. Many "improvements" to the keggers simply move the powerband around without really increasing power. But by all means, do as you wish. Good luck with your project.

In an effort to get this back on track, I've scheduled my truck to go in for an alignment on Wednesday. Several months ago some may remember i converted to the 08 T- style steering, well i never got it aligned. Only have maybe 2k miles on that but still it's time. I did drive it to the city yesterday and loved it. I very much prefer the 4spd characteristics vs the 6spd in my f150. Yes the 4spd is BUILT but i prefer how it's not constantly changing gears around town. A downshift is typically a single gear, not three. And i can keep it out of overdrive around town. I like that. That 6spd hauls at WOT but i like the simple 4spd for overall drivability.

Also i don't think i ever mentioned it on here but i picked up a keg from Ebay. Also picked up carbide burrs and all that jazz to play around with porting. I'll practice on the keg, add the plates and weld them in myself. Then swap the m1 and the keg so i can continue driving it while i gasket match the m1 and open up the throttlebody throat and stuff like that.

 

[Okiespaniel]

I'm going racing today.

I have done plenty of work on my truck myself. If you want to be an ******* be one somewhere else. Besides it is my money to spend how I wish. And it works like this: 5 hp from this and 15 from that and 2 from that and 3 from this other thing and 20 from that and throw on a tuner and before you know it it adds up. It is called math. If that **** didn’t do anything then nobody would use them including me racers. Don’t waste air being angry because you don’t want me spending my money. This whole thing started because I was just asking about what would be a good coil and that is it. I wasn’t asking anything else. This place is supposed to provide good peer answers and advice. I simply asked a question and everyone got bent out of shape. So I did my own research. I have decided to push those upgrades back until I get some others done. Gibson Stainless headers to go with my exhaust that is getting done. Again my money.

You say it won’t help and others on other forums have said it makes a huge difference so bang it out with them. You aren’t the end all be all of performance knowledge. You think you are an expert in these few things because you tried it and the seat of your pants feeling said it didn’t do squat. That doesn’t make you right or wrong it just give you knowledge on your particular certain circumstances and vehicle. I am not expecting miracles here. I just happen to be willing to pay more for my hp. The kegger Intake mod is a great idea however I can’t afford that much down time and I can’t weld nor am I completely comfortable tearing it off myself.


Be a human being and grow up.


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Calling me an *******....pfffffft really? If that's the best you can do it isn't good enough. I've been called far worse by far better strangers.

I hope I never "grow up" but growing old isn't an option. I have something you lack though, hard experience.
When people asking for information question that or my integrity, I can get a bit bristled. You obviously have as well...I mean you called me an ******* right?

People of integrity expect to be believed, and when they're not, they let time prove them right.

This forum doesn't have enough bandwidth to post all my builds, to list all the mistakes I made, and the hard and expensive lessons learned. Or the fun!
But to put things in perspective, when you were barely a gleam in yer daddy's eye, I was tooling around in this...


...and that's just a 20 year start. All experiences that bring me to today. I have over 18 years invested in my current and Second 2nd gen. Where are you at? Are you zen with your Ram? I am!


Yer right... it's your money junior, so spend away.

And with that, I'm going racing. We'll see if the big bucks were well spent.

 

[DodgeLady]

Making progress on my dash rebuild! Did a fit check ( with the old bezel). Looking good!
First are some before pics. I had to rebuild attach points for radio, hvac switch, O/D Inhibit switch...



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[DodgeLady]

Fit check - instruments in, new LMC dash pad installed(not permanent yet) and old bezel!



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[wagunner]

cut out the ash tray and made space for a double din head unit. fits rather well.

 

[wagunner]

got tired of the bed sides always getting in the way, so I picked up a flatbed off an old ford with the same frame rail width and got busy ripping my old bed off


test fitting:


welded in my previous underbed gooseneck hitch

 

[wagunner]

painted the rocker panels while had the bed off with truck bed coating


installing lights and building wiring harness


extension tube for fuel filler neck

 

[wagunner]

Painted the bed, put on a wood deck, Built stakesides that double as loading ramps, and put the bed to work.
Can fit SOO much more in the bed now, don't think I can ever go back to a standard truck bed.

 

[Hero6]

Replaced my PCV valve and grommet with OEM parts. Found the PCV hose was torn as well, seemed to be discontinued or hard to find a pre-molded one, so went to O'rileys and got a length of 3/8 fuel line for like $2 and replaced old hose.

 

[dapepper9]

Took my retrofit headlights out and put in a new set of chrome clear 2pc headlights with basic halogen bulbs. I had messed up connectors and a rat's nest of wiring with the HIDs/projectors, one of the projectors busted a mounting tab and the 1pc lights were impossible to aim. I just got tired of the hassle. Maybe I'll do another set for it someday but it's not currently on my radar.

Ordered a new thermostat and thermostat housing. My housing is Frankensteined for my electric fan's temp sensors. I have the FF Dynamics extreme fan kit to put in and it uses a much simpler method AND the controller is adjustable so no swapping sensors around. Friday I'll be ordering the Genos Garage winter front cover too. She's going to be winter prepped nicely.


Today i got a call from the 2nd machine shop on my engine build. My Eselbrocks CC'd at 57.6 for the chambers instead of the 62ish i was expecting. That changes the static compression calculation from 10.2.....to 11.3:1. My cam has a decent amount of overlap to bleed some of that cylinder pressure but even still that's too much to use with boost on 91 octane. I wish i had a station with 93 closer than 38 miles away. Could do e85 but that brings in its own challenges and problems i don't really want to deal with too. I was stupid and assumed the Edelbrocks wouldn't CC accurately because nobody else's ever do and gave the shop the go ahead to deck the block. Soooo I've got some thinking to do. My options are:
1. Put it together as originally planned and run e85 or 91 with boostane. That plan makes fuel sourcing a nightmare because Iowa e85 is inconsistent as hell. You really need a flex fuel sensor or knock sensor setup to run e85 right around here
2. Say screw the blower and put a different cam in it for a fun N/A driver. Blower can either be sold or saved for the next magnum i mess with. Cam would go from my current 230/234 112 to something closer to a 242/250 108 -110.
3. Get the engine put together and just wrap it up and save it for the next project. When that's done pull the motor in the truck out, dingleball rebuild it and put the blower on that.

Im just not sure what im going to do. Luckily i have probably the next 6 months to think about it

 

[makrop]

Bought a new grill and grill bracket. Got them on without any issues, except I wasn't expecting it to come without an emblem. The old one is not re-usable, so I ordered a new one. How do you attach the dang thing?! Do you just glue it on? Double sided tape? Anyone know? The spot on the grill for it has a weird angled hump in the middle that doesn't match up with anything on the back of the badge.