What DON'T you like about your RAM?

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corneileous

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I’ve said for years truck manufacturers need to have surveys seeing what options people want. That makes too much sense though.


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But see, not everybody wants the same the same things so no matter what they do, they’re not gonna satisfy everybody.



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Omegasupreme

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Have you had that checked out?

I read where someone else mentioned a problem like this along time ago but they could only make it do this when they used the ignition to start the truck, but not with the remote start. I don’t recall what other people said to check. I’d do a forum search.

But do you have any warning lights on at all when it does it?



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Yep. Just had it in. Said they need to keep it for a day or two to look into it. No codes.
 

TestPilot57

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I’ve said for years truck manufacturers need to have surveys seeing what options people want. That makes too much sense though.

Maybe they have.

Just because a minuscule percentage of people on an enthusiast forum don't like something doesn't automatically make is a desire of the masses.
 

duckman631

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Funny, I don’t think I’ve ever seen a car door, or any door for that matter that has never not had the potential to get ripped off the hinges when the wind hits it just right.

How about instead when you know it’s windy out, get a firm grasp on your door just in case so that you can at least help preventing your hinges from getting over-sprung.

I think they mighta heard ya with the new trucks with the LEDS they started putting in the upper trims of the new body-style trucks but still, a good aftermarket bulb will work wonders over stock.

Sensitive as in how?


I guess maybe not everyone wants a feature like this but still, since they make these trucks so easily customizable that they probably could’ve added that feature in.


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The doors don’t even need wind. A slight hill and they will swing back onto you. If you’re leaning in back seat to get something you can get crushed
 

duckman631

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Oh and the auto locking is so random. Sometimes within 15 seconds of driving, sometimes 5 miles down the road. What the hell??

they lock when you exceed like 15mph so it’s not timing, it’s speed that dictates when they lock
 

corneileous

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The doors don’t even need wind. A slight hill and they will swing back onto you. If you’re leaning in back seat to get something you can get crushed

Hmm, mine don’t do that unless I’m on a pretty steep hill.


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Omegasupreme

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they lock when you exceed like 15mph so it’s not timing, it’s speed that dictates when they lock
Ya. But the road I live on is 40 mph. I have made it to my post office 3 miles away without them locking, then I have had them lock in my driveway which I can't go more than 5 mph.
 

duckman631

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Ya. But the road I live on is 40 mph. I have made it to my post office 3 miles away without them locking, then I have had them lock in my driveway which I can't go more than 5 mph.

that’s pretty weird. I would have it checked out
 

Omegasupreme

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32 or below and it really struggles to start. Maybe weak starters are used or weak batteries?
 

Eds34pc

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I’ve heard this mentioned a time or two but I guess I’m still unsure what this is. Care to explain?

-Clunk at the moment the truck stops or when taking my foot off the brake at a stop. Happen +/-50% of the time.

5w-30 as well.

-the truck is a ‘17, 30k and always had full synthetic at the dealer every 5k.

Plastic bed rail tops warp.
Well, they are plastic...lol. When they do warp, use it as an excuse to get some nice metal ones that won’t warp.
-Truck is garage kept, 2 years old. Maybe the dealer should put sticky notes all over the truck when new explaining the low quality materials and to start saving for after market replacements for the near future.

Uconnect updates
I take it your dealer has been no help?
-The dealer??? The last time I was at the dealer, I spent a total of 16 hours over 4 visits trying to get the new tires they installed balanced(4 attempts) alignment (2 attempts) and 1 return trip due to them installing the wrong tires. I fear what they may do to something a little more complicated.

Incompetent dealer and the arguing over warranty issues.
Have you tried a different dealer?
-I have pretty much given up, next closest dealer is an hour away, so I’ll wait for a more major repair to come up or I fine a new truck, which ever comes first.

Wind noise.
Have you checked all your door seals/gaskets?
That’s above my pay grade.
 

corneileous

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Clunk at the moment the truck stops or when taking my foot off the brake at a stop. Happen +/-50% of the time.
Have you had that checked out as well?

5w-30as well.

-the truck is a ‘17, 30k and always had full synthetic at the dealer every 5k.
So I take it you linked a Walmart page of 5w-30 as that’s what you’ve been using? If so, and if you’re still getting a tick, then either you may want to switch to redline 5-30 or even the amsoil 5-30 of you do in fact have the Hemi tick and not the ticking sound from a broke header bolt.

But I’m curious.... if your truck only has 30,000 miles on it, you’re still within the 36,000/36-month warranty. Power train warranty should be until 5 or 6 years, 50 or 60,000 miles. But, if that mobile 1 5-30 oil is what you’ve been having the dealer use, hopefully you haven’t shot your warranty to **** since not only is mobile 1 not a Chrysler-approved oil, but you’ve been using a heavier weight from what Chrysler recommends with 5-20. I’m not saying the 20 weight I better, I’m just saying that in order to not disrupt the warranty, 30 weight might disrupt the warranty office.
Truck is garage kept, 2 years old. Maybe the dealer should put sticky notes all over the truck when new explaining the low quality materials and to start saving for after market replacements for the near future.
Well, I dunno. My truck isn’t garage kept, it stays outside all the time. ‘Course, I have a hard roll-up tonneau cover on mine which pretty much covers up my bed rail caps but mine aren’t warping so I guess I can’t offer much help unless just having the dealer replace them for you since it is still under warranty.
-The dealer??? The last time I was at the dealer, I spent a total of 16 hours over 4 visits trying to get the new tires they installed balanced(4 attempts) alignment (2 attempts) and 1 return trip due to them installing the wrong tires. I fear what they may do to something a little more complicated.
So, I have to ask- how is this all the sudden about tires when initially it was about the Uconnect updates? But now that we’re on the subject of tires, how exactly did they install the wrong tires? Why did you even go to the dealer for tires?

As far as the alignment, I learned the hard way about dealer alignments- well, at least from that dealer, anyways. They made mine worse but after going to a Midas, they made it right. And it was about half the price.

-I have pretty much given up, next closest dealer is an hour away, so I’ll wait for a more major repair to come up or I fine a new truck, which ever comes first.
Well, I’m sorry your closest dealer is about as worthless as **** on a bull it seems like but not all dealerships are created equal. I’d try a different dealer before just throwing my hands on the air and giving up.

But are they giving you shot over for warranty stuff?

That’s above my pay grade.

Sorry but I can’t help you over that one. It doesn’t take a rocket scientist to check door seals/gaskets to see if any of them have any rips, pulled loose from the pinch weld, incorrectly fitted doors.

Has the dealer checked that too?


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RaftingDave

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I thought the search function on the UConnect system was too damn slow, took forever to load my USB stick. Oddly and unexpectedly, the last Uconnect update seems to have fixed that. Much faster now.

I'm getting uneven defrost on my rear window defroster - the driver's side has one section between two elements that defrosts at the same rate as the middle and passenger side, but the rest of the driver's side is really slow to defrost.

I second the complaint about the A/C. On really hot days, I blow the hot air out of the truck before I turn on the A/C, but even then it takes forever for the cab to cool down and never really gets turn-it-down cool inside.

On cold days, I'm also getting the fan whine when I turn the front defrost on high, eventually goes away but it's annoying.

I'm used to the dial shifter now. That took a little while, but I don't care anymore. Works for me.
 

Eds34pc

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Had the truck in for the clunk last year. 1st visit they said it was normal, all trucks do it. 2nd visit I requested a tech ride along, and he acknowledged the clunk, re-flashed the software and it was good(no clunk) for a few months.

The “5-30” link was from you. I use whatever the dealer supplies.

The reference to the tires was an illustration of how incompetent the dealer is. I ended up at Firestone to have the tires balanced(shake at 50-60 that the dealer could not correct in 3 visits) and an alignment to correct the dealer alignment. The tires were new Bridgestone bought from the dealer, so I had to pay for all of the labor 2 times, at the dealer and at Firestone.

I spoke to the dealer about the bed rail cap, and they indicated it was not a warranty issue.

Unfortunately I don’t have the time to travel over 2 hours round trip to the next dealer, although I usually have to make at least 2 trips to convince the service writer there is a warranty issue with my truck, so maybe it’s a wash.
 

SitKneelBend

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Had the truck in for the clunk last year. 1st visit they said it was normal, all trucks do it. 2nd visit I requested a tech ride along, and he acknowledged the clunk, re-flashed the software and it was good(no clunk) for a few months.

The “5-30” link was from you. I use whatever the dealer supplies.

The reference to the tires was an illustration of how incompetent the dealer is. I ended up at Firestone to have the tires balanced(shake at 50-60 that the dealer could not correct in 3 visits) and an alignment to correct the dealer alignment. The tires were new Bridgestone bought from the dealer, so I had to pay for all of the labor 2 times, at the dealer and at Firestone.

I spoke to the dealer about the bed rail cap, and they indicated it was not a warranty issue.

Unfortunately I don’t have the time to travel over 2 hours round trip to the next dealer, although I usually have to make at least 2 trips to convince the service writer there is a warranty issue with my truck, so maybe it’s a wash.
Warped rail caps is a warranty issue. In addition, the dealership should refund you the work that was re-completed (successfully) by Firestone.

If they won't work with you maybe FCA will reimburse you? If @RamCares is still monitoring this forum maybe they could assist?

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corneileous

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Had the truck in for the clunk last year. 1st visit they said it was normal, all trucks do it. 2nd visit I requested a tech ride along, and he acknowledged the clunk, re-flashed the software and it was good(no clunk) for a few months.
Well, sounds like again this sounds like the product of a ****** dealer. Mine doesn’t clunk like that.

The “5-30” link was from you. I use whatever the dealer supplies.
Um, I never did provide a link to some Walmart page regarding 5w-30 mobile 1 engine oil. I don’t know where that came from. That popped up in your own previous post. I was just originally recommending that the heavier-weight 5w-30 oil is what a lot of people on here recommend to combat against the cam and lifter tick. I figured you had provided the link like you were telling us what you use because it showed up in your post.

But anyways, moving on, what is the dealer putting in? I’m assuming by when you say “whatever the dealer puts in” that they’re probably just using the cheap synthetic-blend 5w-20 Mopar or just plain Pennzoil oil with their cheap Mopar filter. At least one good thing, you’re changing it out at 5,000 instead of letting that goofy oil-life-meter in your speedo display dictate when you change your oil. But still, many will tell you that 5w-20 is just too thin of an oil to be using in a big, 400-horse V8. I use 5w-20 but I have the lifetime warranty on mine so if I don’t wanna jeopardize that, I kinda have to use what they say but I don’t just use that blended synthetic. I’ve been using that top-tier Pennzoil Ultra Premium full-synthetic that’s a much better oil than that factory crap. I’m even considering moving up to the much more expensive Amsoil Signature Series the next time another oil change pops up just so that I can give my motor the maximum in protection without going to the heavier 30 weight.

The reference to the tires was an illustration of how incompetent the dealer is. I ended up at Firestone to have the tires balanced(shake at 50-60 that the dealer could not correct in 3 visits) and an alignment to correct the dealer alignment. The tires were new Bridgestone bought from the dealer, so I had to pay for all of the labor 2 times, at the dealer and at Firestone.
I wouldn’t even gone to the dealership in the first place unless it was warranty-related. Since it sounds like your dealer is about as incompetent as they come, this **** with your tires and your alignment really doesn’t surprise me.

But still, you said before, “wrong tires” so what was wrong about them?

I spoke to the dealer about the bed rail cap, and they indicated it was not a warranty issue.
I’d be calling up Ram Cares and be taking it up with them. Just because your “lovely and dealer of the year” said it wasn’t, doesn’t automatically say it’s so. They don’t have the final word on that, the manufacturer does.

Unfortunately I don’t have the time to travel over 2 hours round trip to the next dealer, although I usually have to make at least 2 trips to convince the service writer there is a warranty issue with my truck, so maybe it’s a wash.
Have you spoke with this other dealer at all? Might be worth your while to do it instead of blaming your truck and only relying on just one dealer who obviously isn’t worth a ****. I’d hate to see ya jump ship to a different brand over one dealership just to run the risk of finding out that the grass isn’t always greener on the other side. Every manufacture has their share of problems like this. But if it ends up working out in a different brand truck then that’s great but still, it just sucks that a ****** dealer is the reason why you have a bad opinion of your Ram.



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Eds34pc

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Full synthetic.

Dealership had a sale. Ordered Dueler Alenza Plus, got Dueler Alenza(and the order was given to the service manager. Are you suggesting a customer with no prior negative experience buying tires from car dealers should know better?

I bought Mopar bedrail cap $75.00 and installed it myself. Cheaper than spending hours getting the dealer to warranty it and waiting for install.

I don’t blame the truck itself, but it’s not much good to me if I can’t get warranty issues repaired in a timely fashion, or at all. This is my 1st RAM after having Fords for years and enjoying quality service through the dealer I was using. I switched to RAM after not being able to find a good deal on an F150. I didn’t cheap out, I bought a Limited for $53k, and I just expected a better ownership experience.
 

SitKneelBend

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Full synthetic.

Dealership had a sale. Ordered Dueler Alenza Plus, got Dueler Alenza(and the order was given to the service manager. Are you suggesting a customer with no prior negative experience buying tires from car dealers should know better?

I bought Mopar bedrail cap $75.00 and installed it myself. Cheaper than spending hours getting the dealer to warranty it and waiting for install.

I don’t blame the truck itself, but it’s not much good to me if I can’t get warranty issues repaired in a timely fashion, or at all. This is my 1st RAM after having Fords for years and enjoying quality service through the dealer I was using. I switched to RAM after not being able to find a good deal on an F150. I didn’t cheap out, I bought a Limited for $53k, and I just expected a better ownership experience.
Seriously, contact FCA with your receipt for the cap. They will likely reimburse you.

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TestPilot57

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When on FM Radio the radio will sometimes (1-2 times a week) change to a random station.

No consistency (nor control) as to what happens re: music, when your phone connects via BT or USB. Sometimes nothing happens, sometimes it starts playing Pandora, sometimes it starts playing iPod.

The chrome bezel around the center console makes a near-pinpoint light reflection on both the drivers and passengers side windows.

Less than 400 HP. A vehicle this size should have no less than 500 HP. Come on, I didn't buy a Prius!
 

indept

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When on FM Radio the radio will sometimes (1-2 times a week) change to a random station.

No consistency (nor control) as to what happens re: music, when your phone connects via BT or USB. Sometimes nothing happens, sometimes it starts playing Pandora, sometimes it starts playing iPod.

The chrome bezel around the center console makes a near-pinpoint light reflection on both the drivers and passengers side windows.

Less than 400 HP. A vehicle this size should have no less than 500 HP. Come on, I didn't buy a Prius!
Whiney *****
I've had no problem with my radio and bottom line the 395 hp hemi is the top of the line for pickups. Unless you get an egoboost Ford, if so, go buy one. Don't forget to let us know how great they are when one or both of the $1200 plus labor turbos are when the **** the bed...
 

Omegasupreme

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Whiney *****
I've had no problem with my radio and bottom line the 395 hp hemi is the top of the line for pickups. Unless you get an egoboost Ford, if so, go buy one. Don't forget to let us know how great they are when one or both of the $1200 plus labor turbos are when the **** the bed...
Wow. You live in a fantasy world. 3.5 eats hemis for breakfast. 6.4 and can't even make as much torque as a 3.5. Lol. The uconnect in these trucks is a joke. I had a 2013 Ecoboost go 167,000 miles and it was on original turbos. No play in shafts. These ram trucks are 100,000 mile trucks at best. 100,000 miles dump them in a river. Lol
 
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