What is the best way to buff out light scratches

[Danimal77]

I just got my Bushwacker OE style flares back from paint yesterday. Last night I got the rears installed and began to prep for todays install of the front flares. I had to remove the HEMI badges on the front fenders due to the new flares. I sawed them off with fishing line then used 3m addhesive remover and my finger nails to get all the leftover tape off. I then claybar'd and waxed the area. Last night in the dark it looked perfect, this morning in the sun, I can see light surface scratches in the clear. What is the best and safest way to remove these? Thanks

 

[0212353]

For VERY light scratches I have used Megs Scratch-X. Works great by hand, even better if you have a buffer or some sort.

 

[Danimal77]

I just found a bottle of meg's ultimate rubbing compound, forgot I even had it. I used a foam pad and it shined up perfect. That stuff is great for light hazey scratches. Anyway, problem fixed....yee haw!

 

[ramhunter9]

yee haw , bud need pics !!!

 

[AWE Daniel]

If you can get your hands on a good polisher, right angle buffer, I had miracles worked on my caddy by having certain areas wet sanded

 

[rocket]

So what if you have a buffer, but don't know how to use it.?!?

 

[0212353]

what kind of "buffer" is it?

 

[rocket]

I don't have one yet.lol But if I did?

 

[The Assassin]

I don't have one yet.lol But if I did?

If it's a random orbital, you're fine...if it's a variable speed, you better know what you are doing, or no more clear, no more paint.

 

[0212353]

If it's a random orbital, you're fine...if it's a variable speed, you better know what you are doing, or no more clear, no more paint.

Bingo.

I have a Meguiars random orbit (rebadged porter cable) - does a great job. I'll get to see how it works really soon..........damn wife scuffed her bumper on my truck's bumper this morning.

 

[badblackram06]

I don't have one yet.lol But if I did?

The way i was always taught was to let the weight of buffer do the work. Some areas that have stubborn water spots or light scratches that wont seem to leave, you may have to apply a little force but not too much or you will burn the clear coat right off. With that said, Keep the pad wet with polish, compound, etc.. Too much is never enough! Which in turn will keep the pad and the clear/paint cool. Also start off on the lowest speed. you shouldnt have to get over 2 or 3 if its a 5 or 6 varible speed buffer.

Edit: Dodge Clear and paint is very THIN! so be careful.

 

[NOTW]

I've always used a good 3M rubbing compound that is used when cutting and buffing fresh paint jobs.

 

[CumminsCrazed]

If it's a random orbital, you're fine...if it's a variable speed, you better know what you are doing, or no more clear, no more paint.

I gotta correct ya here bud, there's 2 types of Variable speed polishers/buffers, Dual Action and Rotary. D/As will NOT burn paint no matter how heavy the compound or how long you leave it in one area. Rotarys on the other hand WILL burn the paint.

Bingo.

I have a Meguiars random orbit (rebadged porter cable) - does a great job. I'll get to see how it works really soon..........damn wife scuffed her bumper on my truck's bumper this morning.

I too have the Megiars G110, however, its not a Random Orbit its a Dual Action. Random Orbits are the Wal Mart "waxing Machines" you see for 30 bucks that look like a steering wheel with a bonnet on the end.

The way i was always taught was to let the weight of buffer do the work. Some areas that have stubborn water spots or light scratches that wont seem to leave, you may have to apply a little force but not too much or you will burn the clear coat right off. With that said, Keep the pad wet with polish, compound, etc.. Too much is never enough! Which in turn will keep the pad and the clear/paint cool. Also start off on the lowest speed. you shouldnt have to get over 2 or 3 if its a 5 or 6 variable speed buffer.

Edit: Dodge Clear and paint is very THIN! so be careful.

Not nesc. true, when doing initial passes with product, you are supposed to apply (< 20 total lbs) to the surface your working, as to get a good cut on the paint. After initial buffing/compounding you then take the pressure away to finish the paint and remove any micro marring that may have been made due to initial cut.