Wheel Spacers

[brandonjansen]

Disagree. The hub centric whatever does nothing to support the rotational force placed on the studs (shear force is 360 degrees, as in any lateral force placed against the side of the stud). Regardless, additional leverage is placed on the studs, which is the same force placed on the bearings and BJs.

Like I said earlier, a person might be able to get away with spacers for a long time, but in the immortal words of Chris Rock, "You can drive a car with your feet if you want to. That don't make it a good idea."

And the rotational force placed on the studs from the spacer is NO different than the rotational force placed on the studs from a wheel being bolted directly to them. The studs don't care what they're turning. A wheel or a spacer makes no difference to them. So that argument is invalid.

There is more leverage on the hub assembly, there's no doubt about that. But that's not going to give any issues with the studs provided a hub centric spacer is used because of how they bolt onto the truck and are supported. I agree that the hub bearings and ball joints will need to be replaced sooner than a completely stock truck would. But the guys who make comments like "ball joints will need to be changed every oil change" are so off base; not even close to correct.

 

[R.L.K.]

Gonna have to completely agree with Brandonjanson on this one .

I'm thinking some here do not understand what hub centric means ? The best option ( if spacers are installed) is both Hub & Wheel centric imo.

Wheel spacers are not the devil , it's simply an affordable option over expensive wheels for the stance one wants .

Most who mod their trucks understand sometimes their mods may cause more wear or premature failures . Over a stock truck .

Threads like this are useful to many to learn and weigh their options for pros & cons to see if a particular mod is worth it to that individual.

I stand behind what I said in closing on post # 5 above .

 

[kry226]

With a spacer, you now have TWO shear planes not ONE as you do in stock form. By definition, you've just INCREASED shear force on the stud. Not only that, the second shear plane is farther out toward the tip of the stud and away from the root or strongest point of the stud.

You guys run whatever you want as I couldn't care less, but you cannot change the laws of physics.

 

[brandonjansen]

With a spacer, you now have TWO shear planes not ONE as you do in stock form. By definition, you've just INCREASED shear force on the stud. Not only that, the second shear plane is farther out toward the tip of the stud and away from the root or strongest point of the stud.

You guys run whatever you want as I couldn't care less, but you cannot change the laws of physics.

Okay buddy... you just don't get it so there's no point in arguing with you. I could draw pictures and actually calculate the physics of this for you as I'm more than capable of doing it but that's simply not worth my time. At the end of the day you're still wrong and simply stating "you can't change the laws of physics" doesn't prove anything you're trying to say. So you can kindly leave this thread now and leave the real modifications to the big boys who understand how things work.

 

[ruskibrewski]

 

[kry226]

“When the debate is lost, slander becomes the tool of the loser.” ― Socrates

Yeah, you're right. I don't get it. I don't get how "I could draw pictures and actually calculate the physics of this for you as I'm more than capable of doing it but..." proves anything you say.

I also don't get how you can talk about "Big Boys" when I was modding motorcycles, cars, and trucks before you were born. That's laughable. Such VAST experience you have.

I never once said spacers were dangerous, or that they couldn't be run for a long time if the owner pays attention to what they're doing (torque, torque, torque). All I have said is that spacers add additional stress to the previously mentioned suspension parts, namely bearings, BJs, and studs, on a truck that already weighs over 7k. And to a man, everyone in this thread has already admitted so. So what actually are you trying to say?

But you did have a good suggestion: I'll leave this thread so you "Big Boys" can play and mod all you want.

OP- good luck in whatever you decide to do. Best wishes.

Out.

 

[danam]

I guess I'll chime in I want to thank you all I subscribe to this thread and it's going to help me as I am looking for spacers but after reading all the post I know what I need to do to maintain the integrity of the suspension.

I'm kind of a confrontational guy too so I like the fiery conversation back and forth well done gentlemen

 

[Embrod]

Does anyone know the narrowest spacer that can be run on a 4th gen (2015) ram 1500 without having to cut the wheel studs? Stock sport rims 20x9. They look like they have pockets on the rear side that would accommodate some of the stud that would extend past the spacer. I'm looking for 1" or at most 1.25" spacers.

http://www.ramforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64443&stc=1&d=1453429180

 

[jwheeler]

I think 1.5" to clear the studs


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[R.L.K.]

jwheeler may be right , but seems like I've heard someone run 1.25" without an issue .

Measure the length of you oem studs on your hub and subtract the depth of the cutouts in your wheel this will give you the narrowest spacer you can run .

Example : stud = 1.75"
Cutout = .75"
Min spacer = 1.0"

PER the example I'd run 1.25" to be safe .

Remember this is just an EXAMPLE ! You still need to measure your OEM studs and wheel cutouts if your wheels have cutouts .
Hope this helps !

 

[Embrod]

So maybe 1.25" spacer would work. The 1/4" past the spacer would easily fit into the pockets on the back of my stock wheels. Anyone else try this?

 

[R.L.K.]

I believe you can custom order whatever width you require from Motor sport tech Bora spacers , just make sure to order both Hub & Wheel centric.

 

[Embrod]

That is what I was thinking of doing. The Wheel and hub centric spacers from Bora look like they are the best ones out there. My only concern is not having to cut the studs, but on the other hand I don't want the wheels to stick out too far. I thought 1" to 1.25 would be great. I don't want to install fender flares. The washer like spacers don't appeal to me and you can only go about 5/16" before the stock studs get pretty short. Anybody tried 1" or 1.25" spacers without interfering with stock sport wheels?

 

[R.L.K.]

@ Embrod
If you find you do require shorter studs and you don't want to install shorter ones , you can do this : run an opened ended lug nut onto the stud , back the nut off to the length you need to cut , using the nut as a perpendicular guide to cut the stud straight with a 90° whizz wheel / die grinder , now run the nut down to the hub by hand ,now apply anti-sieize or grease to the threads of the cut stud and remove the nut to clean up the cut area of threads . This method works great !
Replacing the OEM studs is another option , only takes about ten mins per wheel once the wheel is off , with a 4lb mini sledge hammer and an impact . This is an added cost , the cutoff method works well and if you cut off .5" or less there's still plenty to reinstall just wheels in the future .

 

[Embrod]

@ Embrod
If you find you do require shorter studs and you don't want to install shorter ones , you can do this : run an opened ended lug nut , back the nut off to the length you need to cut , using the nut as a perpendicular guide to cut the stud straight with a 90° whizz wheel / die grinder , now run the nut down to the hub by hand ,now apply anti-sieize or grease to the threads of the cut stud and remove the nut to clan to clean up the

Thanks R.L.K.

Good info! Not sure if I'm going this route or not. Lots of criticism over spacers. Just thought someone might know what fits without modifying the studs.