Will This Be A Problem?

[dmullen]

I have some Lund wheel to wheel bars coming and something told me to check underneath the truck where the old bars were removed by the dealership when I bought it. I didn't like the ones they had on it so they removed them and lowered the price a little. Anyway, just like I thought the screw holes look a little rough. Do you think I will have a problem with these when I install the new brackets?

 

[EagleChief]

I did. Just went through the same issue. Dealer put steps on, wanted too much for them. I had them remove them. What you are looking at is basically a rivnut that was added with the OEM steps. Just so you know, they are removeable, but it's a pain in the ass!! Took me about 4 hrs to get them off. But, I was using a flathead screwdriver, a hammer, and a dremel.

What you are seeing in the picture is basically a washer that is part of the nut on the inside of the frame. If you can get that washer part cut off, or pry it up from the frame, you can eventually push it through the hole. That's what I had to do. I could then fish the nut out with a magnet. That square spot above the holes is actually just some tape covering up an opening into the frame. That's how I would fish the rivnut out with a magnet. More than likely, your new steps will have you remove that tape anyway to use their new brackets. If you have any other questions, let me know. I can try and help a little more if none of that made any sense.

 

[jwheeler]

If the new steps use the same hole, why not just get some bolts to fit those nuts already installed? If they really need to be removed, try and screw a bolt in a little then hit it with a hammer. It might unsquish the rivet part enough to remove it. A lot easier than fishing them out with a magnet.


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[EagleChief]

My issue was the mounting with the new steps had a flat bracket that used the hole on top (taped in the pic) and the hole on the bottom. In between was a piece of flat plate that the nuts were welded to. Using the existing rivnuts would not allow the flat plate to sit flush to the frame rail on the inside, thus putting the mounting hardware in a bind. And, it wouldn't be completely secure.

 

[jwheeler]

Oh I got ya. Yeah, there is another style of factory ones that use the hole that is taped over up above also. If that is the case, the nuts will be a problem.


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[dmullen]

My issue was the mounting with the new steps had a flat bracket that used the hole on top (taped in the pic) and the hole on the bottom. In between was a piece of flat plate that the nuts were welded to. Using the existing rivnuts would not allow the flat plate to sit flush to the frame rail on the inside, thus putting the mounting hardware in a bind. And, it wouldn't be completely secure.

Sounds exactly like what I have coming on the Lund bars. So the flared part you can see needs to come off so you can remove the rest of the nut you don't see right?

 

[dmullen]

I wonder if one of those oscillating tools would cut the flared part off?

 

[EagleChief]

Correct. The flared part is part of the nut on the backside. I tried using my Dremel to cut out the inside of the flared part, but I have an inadequate Dremel.

 

[jwheeler]

You should be able to easily use a drill bit to cut off the shoulder you can see then pop them in. But then you need to find a way to fish them out of the body. Try screwing a bolt in and hitting it to straighten it out and the remove the whole thing. I had good luck with that method when doing rock sliders on my jeep.




This is what they look like

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