Winch and Switch

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Odin

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Has anyone connected their winch to a switch yet for activation and in/out from in the cab? Looking at doing the AEV Switch Pod for the lighting I'm gonna add and wanted some thoughts from anyone who's done the previously mentioned with their winch.

Thanks in advance.

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Low_Sky

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I’m currently working on getting the Harbor Freight winch remote working on my truck (troubleshooting issues with the controller blowing fuses now). I have the wiring done and the winch end of things is good.

What do you want to know?


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Odin

Odin

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Just curious how much of a pain in the ass it all is.

I've seen Jeep guys do two separate switches. One for power and then an in/out switch for running the winch. Just trying to get thoughts on it.

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Low_Sky

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Just curious how much of a pain in the ass it all is.

I've seen Jeep guys do two separate switches. One for power and then an in/out switch for running the winch. Just trying to get thoughts on it.

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Not too much trouble, relatively speaking. Finding where to put the switches is probably the hardest part. Not a lot of flat real estate in the dash.

Some things I’d incorporate if I was doing in-cab switches...

Use a master switch (like the “Jeep guys”) so the winch can’t be accidentally activated.
Put the winch in/out switch somewhere you can comfortably rest your hand/arm for a long time, our winch isn’t exactly fast.
Put a connector in your wires going down to the winch in the vicinity of the battery so you can disconnect there along with unhooking the winch cables to the battery to facilitate dropping the winch for service.
You’ll have to ground the solenoids. They’re on a floating ground through the Warn remote, so a different switching system won’t work unless you ground them.
While you’re working on the winch, you have easy access to bypass the thermal switch. These go bad pretty commonly and leave you able to spool out, but not in. If you do bypass it, remember to give it some cool down time when winching since now you don’t have a “safety net” to stop you from overheating it. You can also take out the low voltage interrupt, but these are much less prone to issues and I left mine alone.


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Low_Sky

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And adding in-cab switches, or a wireless remote is a good idea. The Warn wired remotes and sockets do go bad and it wouldn’t be any fun to find that out when you need your winch and don’t have an alternate way to operate it.


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Odin

Odin

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Awesome! Thank you for the info. As for location, I'll be doing the AEV Switch Pod so this will take up 2 of the 6 slots. Others will be lighting.

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S0CAL

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sub'd. I have a VR12000 mounted, but I still need to hook up.

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56PW17

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And adding in-cab switches, or a wireless remote is a good idea. The Warn wired remotes and sockets do go bad and it wouldn’t be any fun to find that out when you need your winch and don’t have an alternate way to operate it.


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Amazing because mine went bad today with 30 feet of cable out. Not fun. Ill have a witing post up soon enough.
 

Bock

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I’m currently working on getting the Harbor Freight winch remote working on my truck (troubleshooting issues with the controller blowing fuses now). I have the wiring done and the winch end of things is good.

What do you want to know?


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Did you get the Harbor Freight remote switch working? If so how did you do it?
 

56PW17

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Did you get the Harbor Freight remote switch working? If so how did you do it?
Are you guys talking about the wireless plug and play controller?
 

Low_Sky

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Harbor Freight is absolutely not plug and play. The unit currently being sold pops the built in fuse, needs some resistance between the box and power source and so haven’t figured out how much yet.

The Warn wireless is plug-and-play, but it plugs into the remote socket, so doesn’t do a think about problems in the wiring harness between the socket and winch solenoid pack.

Warn is the way to go, but I’m already bought into that HF unit so I’ll keep fighting it til something releases the internal factory smoke or I get it figured out.


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Meister

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Harbor Freight is absolutely not plug and play. The unit currently being sold pops the built in fuse, needs some resistance between the box and power source and so haven’t figured out how much yet.

The Warn wireless is plug-and-play, but it plugs into the remote socket, so doesn’t do a think about problems in the wiring harness between the socket and winch solenoid pack.

Warn is the way to go, but I’m already bought into that HF unit so I’ll keep fighting it til something releases the internal factory smoke or I get it figured out.


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Ballsy....could be an expensive trial
 
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