Would someone please explain the difference between these two axle nuts?

[HangmanNY]

I’m picking up the strut lower spring seat today from an auto salvage yard in Florida.

Yesterday I mounted that intermediate shaft housing to the front differential. I figured I’d let the RTV sealant dry. I filled the front differential this morning.


I just put the right side CV axle in this morning. I’ve got two different nuts that go over the CV axle. The black one came with the Mevotech TTX wheel bearing/hub.

The silver one that looks like it has a crimp in it came with the new CV axles.

Can anyone explain the practical differences between these two different nuts? In my mind, the one with the crimp is likely to damage the threads. And why would they include something like this with brand new CV axles???


Do I use the one that came with the CV axle (the silver one with the crimp), or the black one that came with the wheel bearing hub?

Thanks for any clarification on this!

 

[inuyasha-rules]

The crimp acts as a lock washer to keep the axle nut from working loose. Those crimps are a lot deeper than I'm used to, so unless the nut is soft metal (like aluminum) I'd be afraid it would damage the threads too. On the other hand, I'd be afraid of aluminum causing galvanic corrosion and seizing in place, so I'd use the black nut. Hopefully someone with hands on experience can chime in.

 

[G-Ride990]

These nuts are single use only. The crimp or swage or whatever someone wants to call it is very important and in my opinion, I want it to be aggressive.

I highly doubt that silver colored nut is going to hurt anything. It should just clearance and kind of self-thread itself as you run it on.

Keep the less aggressive one as a backup.

 

[HangmanNY]

Thanks for the information!!!

I never came across one of these before. But then again, I’ve never changed CV axles until this project.

I have all of the other front and components finger tight. So that I could disconnect it and put the struts/springs in. I’ll be assembling the Eibach new struts tomorrow with the spring seats I picked up late today.

I also have a new upper mounts, new dust covers/bumpers.

I bought a good OMP spring compression kit a few years ago (on the advice of a good friend who has a lot of experience working on cars). I actually bought it to work on my Volkswagen Diesel.

It also has an extra curved brace which holds the two sections together around the spring. It’s not in the photo.

 

[Wild one]

I’m picking up the strut lower spring seat today from an auto salvage yard in Florida.

Yesterday I mounted that intermediate shaft housing to the front differential. I figured I’d let the RTV sealant dry. I filled the front differential this morning.


I just put the right side CV axle in this morning. I’ve got two different nuts that go over the CV axle. The black one came with the Mevotech TTX wheel bearing/hub.

The silver one that looks like it has a crimp in it came with the new CV axles.

Can anyone explain the practical differences between these two different nuts? In my mind, the one with the crimp is likely to damage the threads. And why would they include something like this with brand new CV axles???


Do I use the one that came with the CV axle (the silver one with the crimp), or the black one that came with the wheel bearing hub?

Thanks for any clarification on this!

If you use the black nut,take a chisel and hammer and put a crimp in it after you've torqued it down.

 

[HangmanNY]

I have to look at the list of the torque specs for that axle nut. Not mistaken I think it’s in the ballpark of 180 foot pounds. Once I get the new struts and I will torque everything when the suspension is loaded.

Then I’m going for an alignment

 

[G-Ride990]

I have to look at the list of the torque specs for that axle nut. Not mistaken I think it’s in the ballpark of 180 foot pounds. Once I get the new struts and I will torque everything when the suspension is loaded.

Then I’m going for an alignment

That first pic you posted is crazy. You obviously did a ton of work to get everything looking new and clean.

Nice job!

Please post more pics when you get everything fixed up.

 

[Grams]

Both of those nuts have “interference-fit” friction-locks designed into them.
Neither will “damage” the threads. (The friction-lock-design will “upset” and create friction to prevent inadvertent loosening of the nut.)

Use whichever one you like. It will make no difference.

 

[olyelr]

That first pic you posted is crazy. You obviously did a ton of work to get everything looking new and clean.

Nice job!

Please post more pics when you get everything fixed up.

^^^^^THIS!

Cant wait to see the finished product, its really coming along. Its gonna feel like a different truck!

 

[RWlRAM]

On my '94 I had a front bearing assembly go bad and replaced it.
It failed almost to a year later when I was on vacation.
The shop that I took it to replaced things and again about a year later the bearing went bad. Both times the original nuts were not replaced with new "One time use" axle nuts.
That was the first time I ever heard of "one time use" nuts!
The third time lasted about 100K miles until the trucks demise in '17.

 

[HangmanNY]

On my '94 I had a front bearing assembly go bad and replaced it.
It failed almost to a year later when I was on vacation.
The shop that I took it to replaced things and again about a year later the bearing went bad. Both times the original nuts were not replaced with new "One time use" axle nuts.
That was the first time I ever heard of "one time use" nuts!
The third time lasted about 100K miles until the trucks demise in '17.

You would think that an auto shop would know the correct way to do it?

I find this formum to be very valuable

 

[Pushrod8Speed]

Looks nice.
A few questions...
What upper control arm is this that?
Does it have hydraulic power steering?
Is that a DIY frame paint job?

 

[HangmanNY]

Yes, I removed all the rust. Then sprayed it with rust reformer. Let it sit for several days and then sprayed it with black paint.

The upper control arms are “CORE 4x4”

Power steering I believe is electronically assisted. There is no power steering reservoir.

 

[Pushrod8Speed]

Did you replace the inner tie rod boots?

 

[Pushrod8Speed]

Reason I asked is I didn't see them in pic and tie rod is on. Don't want dirt/water in that expensive unit.
(Edit): Nevermind, just saw your thread on it. Nice work. I just did similar...all front suspension/tie rods/PPE pan/exhaust manifolds/and same paint job on frame (lol). RWD though, jealous now.

 

[HangmanNY]

Yes, I replaced the inner tie rod boots. I bought and tried using the Lisle boot clamp tool. They usually make good products and I have a few of Lisle tools.

I could not get this thing to work on the thin metal clamp that came with the inner tire rod and boot. I wound up using heavy, zip ties and tying them down real tight at the back of the rubber boot. And I put extra grease around the ball joint at the end of inner tire rod before securing the boot.

And I have more rust to remove on the frame and the cross braces working from where I left off towards the rear suspension

I also have the seven piece “track series” rear suspension kit from CORE 4x4. I’ve watched a few of their videos and the way to do. It is to replace one component at a time with the suspension loaded.

So what I have to do is remove one control arm at a time, completely remove the rust from that area, prime and paint it. Then put the control arm in place. And keep repeating the process. It’ll take time, but I want to make sure I get rid of all the rust