Zone uca ball joints

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Hoeoperator320

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Does anyone know what ball joint zone uses in their uca? I installed a pair on my truck today. All i can find is zone stating they're available at most auto part stores.

Also has anyone had issues with the ball joint castle nut torquing down completely past the cotter pin hole? I torqued it to 55ftlbs like the directions stated. It's the same on both sides. I was going to put the factory nyloc nut back on but it appears the threads are different. I put the cotter pin in so the castle nut can't come off but it can back off a little before it catches the pin. Everything else seems normal.
 

2014greatwhite

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I have not had an issue with the nut. I have had the boot pull away from 2 of them. They are moog but they claim that they are special made for their UCA.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

JB1

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Hoeoperator320

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Thank you for the info! That's exactly how mine looks. I thought maybe the hole was just drilled too low. I won't worry about it now.
 

JB1

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I had mine professionally installed with my BDS lift, I never noticed it till I took that picture for ya. Mines been like that for a year with 37” tires and no issues. That said....I do agree it’s kinda odd it’s down lower
 

ram1500rsm

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Found this online doing the same search, though i don't need to replace the BJ's at the moment, i thought having smething like this will come handy in the future when those are needed:

BJ replacaments for those Zone UCA's

Raybestos 500-1134
Moog K80630
Napa 260-1699
XRF K801630
Ingalls IK80630
MCQuay Norris FA2308
 

Quick_Shifter

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My installer actually pointed it out to me. It specifically says in the instructions not to loosen the castle nut to line up with the cotter pin. I am not sure if there is a reason for it but they know the hole is low on purpose to print it in the installation paperwork
 
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JB1

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Found this online doing the same search, though i don't need to replace the BJ's at the moment, i thought having smething like this will come handy in the future when those are needed:

BJ replacaments for those Zone UCA's

Raybestos 500-1134
Moog K80630
Napa 260-1699
XRF K801630
Ingalls IK80630
MCQuay Norris FA2308

Excellent
 

S0CAL

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Hoeoperator320

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Why not add a washer or a few so the cotter pin lines up?
Was thinking about that. I'm swaping wheels and tires next week, might try adding a washer then. Not to worried about it but wouldn't hurt
 

JB1

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The OEM BJ doesn’t have a cotter pin nor does the mevotech brand that many here use, I wouldn’t worry about it.

426178E5-DADE-4733-B898-57F23B4B9C65.jpeg

4592AB41-97C3-4F61-A865-A9C2051D53EB.jpeg
 
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Quick_Shifter

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Was thinking about that. I'm swaping wheels and tires next week, might try adding a washer then. Not to worried about it but wouldn't hurt
I would not advise adding any washers, that would change torque specs. Its possible to just bend the cotter pin up to lock the castle nut if you're worried about it loosening
 

G-Ride990

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ram1500rsm

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I checked mine, and i have less of a gap between the castle nut and the cotter pin? I guess some sort of new design perhaps ? Or maybe just a different BJ? If you look at he boot I have 2 rings, the op seems to have only one?,i was curious as i didn't do the install, but went ahead and checked for 55lbs, and they're both at least at 55, maybe more, but my torque wrench is clicking at 55, i bought this UCA's couple of months ago so they're fairly new, added some grease today too.

Driver side
30476214397_fe6a6b60c0_h.jpgUntitled by Wrangler RSM, on Flickr

Pasenger side
45416525461_e456590dbd_h.jpgUntitled by Wrangler RSM, on Flickr
 
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Hoeoperator320

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Kind of weird, i wonder if that ball joint was originally designed for a different vehicle with a thicker knuckle? Not worried about it, just never ran into that before with ball joints
 

Quick_Shifter

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The picture @JB1 posted is with BDS knuckles and your picture @ram1500rsm is the factory knuckle so it is thicker. Im sure with other kits their is a variance as well
 

John-e-racer

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I would not advise adding any washers, that would change torque specs. Its possible to just bend the cotter pin up to lock the castle nut if you're worried about it loosening
It will not change the torque spec. All it does move the nut down so castellations line up
 

John-e-racer

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I checked mine, and i have less of a gap between the castle nut and the cotter pin? I guess some sort of new design perhaps ? Or maybe just a different BJ? If you look at he boot I have 2 rings, the op seems to have only one?,i was curious as i didn't do the install, but went ahead and checked for 55lbs, and they're both at least at 55, maybe more, but my torque wrench is clicking at 55, i bought this UCA's couple of months ago so they're fairly new, added some grease today too.

Driver side
30476214397_fe6a6b60c0_h.jpgUntitled by Wrangler RSM, on Flickr

Pasenger side
45416525461_e456590dbd_h.jpgUntitled by Wrangler RSM, on Flickr
Love the dent in the first pic. Whomever did the install whacked the joint to loosen it up and put a nice dent in it. Structurally most likely just fine just ****** me off to do something like that. Obviously steel hammer vs cast Aluminum and you know who wins every time
 
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