Good brand of wheel bearing.

[Jeepwalker]

I can't even imagine changing them in the rust belt.

I'll bet the 4WD hubs are a real b*tch to remove when the spline is rusted together.

It's called a Bigger BFH ...and some choice 4-letter words sometimes. The splines are usually not a problem, surprisingly ...the metal is real hard and moisture doesn't get in there usually.

Come on down to FL @Jeepwalker. Everybody else is coming here, might as well make a party of it.

Thanks for the offer (to come to FL). Yeah, everyone's moving down there. My neighbor is planning on moving down there in a couple years. But that would make plowing snow (one of the true joys of winter) pretty difficult.

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Now I have to 'dream' of plowing snow till next winter!! (not in my Ram tho)

 

[HEMIMANN]

I thought timken moved overseas ?
Tiwain & Mexico ?

Nope - boy just put Timken USA for his Ford Super duty front axle bearing replacement.

 

[huntergreen]

Nope - boy just but Timken USA for his Ford Super duty front axle bearing replacement.

apparently have factories all over the world. Wonder if they kept auto bearings here in the states. Hope so.

 

[BlownGP]

Did you try RockAuto?

I just ordered a SKF from walmart. Same part number as the rockauto.

We'll see what I end up with. Walmarts return policy is pretty good.

 

[BlownGP]

I can't even imagine changing them in the rust belt.

I'll bet the 4WD hubs are a real b*tch to remove when the spline is rusted together.

Come on down to FL @Jeepwalker. Everybody else is coming here, might as well make a party of it.

I will never move where it snows. I can't stand the cold. haha

 

[Brandonian]

I'm a fan of proper parts - but at some point you are just paying for name which is why so many try to replicate it. Certain things need to be done by "OEM" - but some things do not. A Heater Core I would not skimp on, but something like a wheel hub I have never used OEM on - it was always MevoTech or Moog for my Jeep Commander, or any other vehicle I helped on - with that being said - the place it was made definitely makes a difference, the CHINA Moogs were junk as I was told, the Canada and Mexico ones were good. I really wanted the Mevotech TTX stuff before I reluctantly sold it due to cross-country move .

However, I agree with the post earlier about looking at the CV joint for click/popping on turns - the Wheel Hub Bearing should growl while going straight, or possibly chirp while turning...any time a CV has gone bad for me it was popping and clicking turning as a tell-tale sign. If the bearing is bad, you can lift it off the ground slightly, and wiggle it up/down - not a full diagnosis - but if it has play your bearings are bad in the hub.

I've only had two wheel hubs ever go bad - heck the last ones I put on the Commander in the rear were "WJB" off Amazon and they stood up stupidly well. I only replaced them because at 170k as I did the brakes and parking brakes in the rear I said fudge it and put in new hubs. Kept the old ones as spares.

If the sound was the same right after you installed the new one - it probably was not the original source, also with these - even if you got a good few miles out of it before it came back, your CV would have been jostled slightly on removal and install of new hub so that could just have taken a few miles to start up again and put itself in the "awkward' phase.

Also remember - most of the parts for OEM are made in China, Mexico, Taiwan etc. - it's also grade of the part you have to look at.

 

[Jeepwalker]

I generally still go OEM on my vehicles, unless the price difference is great. Bearings are 'graded' after manufacture. They don't all come out of the machines the same. And although I don't know this as a fact, I've worked on many projects with Borg Warner over the years ...and talked to the guys down there a lot, walked the assembly lines where they are describing what they're making and explaining the financing details on it. The short end of it is, the economics of working as an OEM supplier do not lend well to sending them any questionable parts. They keep close track on failures and it comes back to the supplier when there are, and the auto companies hold all the cards pretty much. There's every financial incentive in the contracts to AVOID questionable products.

My hunch would be the SKF-branded bearings probably are the ones which could be exactly the same ...or *could* possibly, in some cases, have a slightly higher tolerance level, and Mopar (..Delco/Ford/Toyota etc) get the consistently better measured product.

Even if that's the case (which I'm speculating), it doesn't mean the aftermarket companies (those which have traditionally good quality control) have a bad or 'sloppy' product. But the Mopar *should be* consistently the best. I have used name brand (non oem) hub assemblies lots of times esp when people didn't want to spend the extra money. They generally last plenty long. The difference in price on rock auto between the SKF and Mopar hub/bearing is $70. So... that's one of those where you start to weigh the cost/benefit and make a decision. So I think the OP did just fine getting the SKF. I'm just thinking out loud here.

But if a guy was running larger-than-stock tires or a truck that experiences 'rough service', I'd definitely recommend an OEM hub assembly.

 

[Hootbro]

I just ordered a SKF from walmart. Same part number as the rockauto.

We'll see what I end up with. Walmarts return policy is pretty good.

Is the Walmart ordered bearing from a third party seller on Walmart.com?

That is part of the problem when dealing with market sites like Walmart and Amazon in they allow third party sellers in their listings and that is where the counterfeits creep in. Places like Rockauto and local national chain parts store have a better handle on direct sourcing and ensuring you are getting genuine product.

When you see trashing reviews on Amazon for auto parts, almost guarantee they were third party bought items and not "shipped and sold by Amazon" listings.

 

[Hydrasport23]

Detriot Axle. Made in USA and they produce parts for many manufacturers.

 

[olscout]

If you're up North, or even in the South with a stubborn hub, two words....'hub shocker'. Stupid simple, buy one on Amazon for under $100. Replace the junk nuts they give you with good stuff from the hardware or farm store. I bought one after my buddy brought one over to remove the rear hubs from my Ford Flex (aluminum knuckles, steel hubs, total corrosion). Before I had a chance to use mine, my neighbor was outside wailing away on the front hub of his 2005 Ram 3500, axle shaft U-joint was gone. He had spent two days trying to get the hub loose, once I gave him the hub shocker three hits from a three pound hammer and it was off. A few days later he carried over a brand new one in the Amazon box, and told me he was keeping my original since he'd scratched the paint on it. One of those things that once you have it, you think " wish I would have found this years ago!"

 

[BlownGP]

Is the Walmart ordered bearing from a third party seller on Walmart.com?

That is part of the problem when dealing with market sites like Walmart and Amazon in they allow third party sellers in their listings and that is where the counterfeits creep in. Places like Rockauto and local national chain parts store have a better handle on direct sourcing and ensuring you are getting genuine product.

When you see trashing reviews on Amazon for auto parts, almost guarantee they were third party bought items and not "shipped and sold by Amazon" listings.

Yeah, you are right. Amazon has gotten a lot like Ebay. You have no idea where it is coming from sometimes.

But it said it shipping from Walmart.com
https://www.walmart.com/ip/SKF-BR93...bly-For-12-21-Ram-1500-1500-Classic/625588239

So did the Mevotech too. At this point, going to try this brand and return it if doesnt work and try another. I can change them pretty fast now. hahaahaaaa

 

[BlownGP]

I'm a fan of proper parts - but at some point you are just paying for name which is why so many try to replicate it. Certain things need to be done by "OEM" - but some things do not. A Heater Core I would not skimp on, but something like a wheel hub I have never used OEM on - it was always MevoTech or Moog for my Jeep Commander, or any other vehicle I helped on - with that being said - the place it was made definitely makes a difference, the CHINA Moogs were junk as I was told, the Canada and Mexico ones were good. I really wanted the Mevotech TTX stuff before I reluctantly sold it due to cross-country move .

However, I agree with the post earlier about looking at the CV joint for click/popping on turns - the Wheel Hub Bearing should growl while going straight, or possibly chirp while turning...any time a CV has gone bad for me it was popping and clicking turning as a tell-tale sign. If the bearing is bad, you can lift it off the ground slightly, and wiggle it up/down - not a full diagnosis - but if it has play your bearings are bad in the hub.

I've only had two wheel hubs ever go bad - heck the last ones I put on the Commander in the rear were "WJB" off Amazon and they stood up stupidly well. I only replaced them because at 170k as I did the brakes and parking brakes in the rear I said fudge it and put in new hubs. Kept the old ones as spares.

If the sound was the same right after you installed the new one - it probably was not the original source, also with these - even if you got a good few miles out of it before it came back, your CV would have been jostled slightly on removal and install of new hub so that could just have taken a few miles to start up again and put itself in the "awkward' phase.

Also remember - most of the parts for OEM are made in China, Mexico, Taiwan etc. - it's also grade of the part you have to look at.

I'm 2wd so no CV joints.

You are right about wheel hub noises make a humming or growling sound. That's been my experience with them. My 2009 Ram wheel hubs both sounded like at about 130K, so that's why this one going bad at 60K shocked me.

And at this point, I've only gotten month out of each wheel bearing before the noise comes back.

 

[BlownGP]

I generally still go OEM on my vehicles, unless the price difference is great. Bearings are 'graded' after manufacture. They don't all come out of the machines the same. And although I don't know this as a fact, I've worked on many projects with Borg Warner over the years ...and talked to the guys down there a lot, walked the assembly lines where they are describing what they're making and explaining the financing details on it. The short end of it is, the economics of working as an OEM supplier do not lend well to sending them any questionable parts. They keep close track on failures and it comes back to the supplier when there are, and the auto companies hold all the cards pretty much. There's every financial incentive in the contracts to AVOID questionable products.

My hunch would be the SKF-branded bearings probably are the ones which could be exactly the same ...or *could* possibly, in some cases, have a slightly higher tolerance level, and Mopar (..Delco/Ford/Toyota etc) get the consistently better measured product.

Even if that's the case (which I'm speculating), it doesn't mean the aftermarket companies (those which have traditionally good quality control) have a bad or 'sloppy' product. But the Mopar *should be* consistently the best. I have used name brand (non oem) hub assemblies lots of times esp when people didn't want to spend the extra money. They generally last plenty long. The difference in price on rock auto between the SKF and Mopar hub/bearing is $70. So... that's one of those where you start to weigh the cost/benefit and make a decision. So I think the OP did just fine getting the SKF. I'm just thinking out loud here.

But if a guy was running larger-than-stock tires or a truck that experiences 'rough service', I'd definitely recommend an OEM hub assembly.

That make a lot sense that's what I am hoping with the SKF bearing.

A few friends have pointed to my 22" wheels (305/45 tires) with adapters causing the problems but as I just stated in my previous post about my 2009 Ram. I ran the same wheel and tire combo with adapters for 8 years and the bearings latest 130K.

 

[Brandonian]

Well - going a month or so noise free and then it coming back is a good indicator I'm a backyard learn as I go kind of guy. In my case - I'll use CV Axles as the example of when to go OEM on some - had a lifted 2008 Jeep Commander, went aftermarket CV Axle. Realized after swapping 12 CV Axles in a year that I was better going OEM - and also then learned the benefits or absolute proper lifts, proper wheels and proper all around components, not just taking one piece into effect but the entirety of it all. As "tested" and known as that lift was - it put undue strain on anything but the oem grade cv axle shafts, however it also strained those albeit minimally. The fix was to put everything in line with the complete proper lift.

So the OEM CV joints themselves, have a slight better articulation angle than the aftermarkets, the OEM CV Boots had much better materials -

This makes sense now - so if you're buying a MEVOTECH, but you are putting it on a non-stock configuration, there's a chance it's not going to handle it well - as stupid as it sounds. The OEM's in your case are much more built for tolerance of this than an aftermarket hub almost every will be (EXCEPT The TTF Series - I'd give those a shot any day if I could) - The aftermarket stuff is built TO OEM spec, and generally doesn't aim to exceed it but sometimes it can, but to be on par to be a very nice cost alternative replacement. Your wheels are heavier, and you have spacers which does add a little strain there to the hub itself, and it just can't take it. If you got 60k miles on OEM - that's your best bet, outside of really heavy duty aftermarket hubs, as anything else is going to give you tremendously less.

If I recall properly, all of these go into their "test' phases - and if a certain percentage of them pass the test, they get to say OE quality - because that just has to meet the quality of a minimum spec OE build only.

I hope the SKF works wonders - This is also why I steer clear personally of wheel adapters and spacers - however on pavement princesses/princes (majority of vehicles they are on anyway) they are acceptable with the realization you aren't going to get full life out of most parts it has a direct connection to. Good news is, hubs are pretty quick in and out to replace

 

[BlownGP]

This makes sense now - so if you're buying a MEVOTECH, but you are putting it on a non-stock configuration, there's a chance it's not going to handle it well - as stupid as it sounds. The OEM's in your case are much more built for tolerance of this than an aftermarket hub almost every will be (EXCEPT The TTF Series - I'd give those a shot any day if I could) - The aftermarket stuff is built TO OEM spec, and generally doesn't aim to exceed it but sometimes it can, but to be on par to be a very nice cost alternative replacement. Your wheels are heavier, and you have spacers which does add a little strain there to the hub itself, and it just can't take it. If you got 60k miles on OEM - that's your best bet, outside of really heavy duty aftermarket hubs, as anything else is going to give you tremendously less.

If I recall properly, all of these go into their "test' phases - and if a certain percentage of them pass the test, they get to say OE quality - because that just has to meet the quality of a minimum spec OE build only.

I hope the SKF works wonders - This is also why I steer clear personally of wheel adapters and spacers - however on pavement princesses/princes (majority of vehicles they are on anyway) they are acceptable with the realization you aren't going to get full life out of most parts it has a direct connection to. Good news is, hubs are pretty quick in and out to replace

That's what a buddy at work said. Probably have a bunch of ones that passed 100% and then some that were aaaaahhhh. Yeah that looks good. lol

 

[Hardracer]

I can't even imagine changing them in the rust belt.

I'll bet the 4WD hubs are a real b*tch to remove when the spline is rusted together.

Come on down to FL @Jeepwalker. Everybody else is coming here, might as well make a party of it.

Nooooooo......everyone don't come..place is gettin to dam crowded

 

[Octane]

I used an skf and was told it was oem. My Challenger hub failed at 90k.

 

[Jeepwalker]

Nooooooo......everyone don't come..place is gettin to dam crowded

Ha ha ...yer safe with me. Wonderful place to visit ..and I'm sure to live). The cold up here keeps a lot of the vermin away (not enough though). I don't blame you long-time FL guys for getting twitchy:

 

[mdc1990zr1]

Ha ha ...yer safe with me. Wonderful place to visit ..and I'm sure to live). The cold up here keeps a lot of the vermin away (not enough though). I don't blame you long-time FL guys for getting twitchy:

View attachment 520689

What's one more. One more ain't gonna hurt. Thank God you have the Gulph of Mexico between you and Mexico.

 

[Brandonian]

My wife's Ram is a rusted pile and I know what it's like to deal with rusted on components now...we bought her 2014 9 months or so ago when we moved from Colorado to Kentucky - Colorado got way too expensive and crowded and we didn't like how far one way politically it was leaning lol. Day before we moved she needed a new to us vehicle, so we went to looking hard. 1 Ford F150 crapped it's Turbopants out as we were driving it, one had an engine knock on start before we could even drive it, and the other one wouldn't even start. Moved over to ol' reliable Mopar! She test drove her 2014 Ram 1500 and loved the Pentastar, I saw some rust under it, but what I saw was salt rust on the parts, and some surface on the frame I could take care of. Fast Forward - in the rush to move, 3 weeks later we get to Kentucky after packing up and moving in, and I notice rocker panel rust - said SON OF A how did I miss that... Not even the best part. We never use our parking brakes, never needed to - well one of our friends borrowed it with us, and used the parking brakes....next day wife had an awful squeeling in the rear driver side. Thought it was a rock stuck in the dust shield riding the rotor, took tire off, could replicate but no rock! Removed caliper (which some @$$hat put a crapload of loctite on the bolts and had to break out the big boy toys to get it) - knock off the rotor and found the parking brake assembly was falling to pieces, and ground off some of the ABS tone ring teeth. Also noticed how much rust was actually on the axle and parts down there. I'm so angry they even sold that - no one to blame myself in theory for not pushing the 1 year newer hemi that had zero rust with her, she was just trying to keep our payments low- she also wanted a black v6 one to boot not a silver leather loaded hemi. Mechanically it's a really solid and runs really nice (knock on wood) - but I told her I'm removing the parking brake, I am not sinking anymore money into it until I decide how far we want to go - either I have to start knocking out parts on it, or we ride it until we can dump it on a trade . Typical scenario of I ran a KBB and found we owe more than it's worth of course after only 10 payments so far lol.

Even better, when I installed her remote start, I pulled the dash panel off, and someone had one on prior, and just ripped it out and put some cheap wire crimps in there to splice the wires back together, but the crimps just fell out as soon as the trim piece came off, exposing the wires. I said what the hell do I have to do to get a decent vehicle around here...I mean if you install a remote start you send it WITH the vehicle - if that's a make it or break it piece at $75 for someone, they probably shouldn't be financing a newer vehicle lol. That was a fire hazard waiting to happen.

In all - she's happy that dad taught me to a fairly competent DIY individual. I'm good at figuring stuff out - but can't really help others much without laying hands on it and running through my own scenarios lol. But I am always happy to try to help someone out. I can competently replace an entire axle assembly - the problem is I shouldn't have to on something recently bought lol I can paint over a rocker panel surface rust issue, who cares - but I'm worried once I lightly sand it to give it a quick coat of how deep it may actually go now. It's no wonder people are hating cars and pushing trades every 3 and 5 years to find something new to stay ahead of potential repair curves. lol.