Newbie from NYC. Modifying my intake and exhaust in hopes of gaining 100+whp :D

[mondo]

Just get it all done for the modern hemi shootout in Fla in March

Do you go to any of them?

 

[ST-8]

I went to Bradenton to watch a couple yrs ago. Broke my trans a couple weeks before the show this past yr. I'd be racing in the slowest class but would like to get th truck out there to run with the other hemis, have done pleanty of test an tunes at track but that's it lol

 

[charonblk07]

Hey man, thanks for the advice. I am very new to Dodges, so any words of advice are welcomed.
I have to make a correction the pistons the truck has are Mahle (not Manley) cast pistons and they have the chrysler logo on them. As I had mention on an early post I took a peek into one of the cylinders thru a spark plug hole using an inspection camera and saw that the piston are thermal coated, so that's a plus

I knew it was an M-something, lol. Manley, Mahle, Molly, it's all the same to me; if they have the Chrysler logo on them then they're hyper-eutectoid pistons and you have to be careful with them or you'll pop the upper ring land because it's so thin. 7-8psi seems to be their limit if you don't run water **** to cool the combustion process, or run rich which is never fun. Anything above 7psi really needs forged pistons, Manley does have a relatively inexpensive rod and piston combo that you can use with a 6.1L forged crank if cost is an issue.

 

[Maximumrisk]

Once again thanks for the feedback @charonblk07 I will look into the piston/rod combo.

I have another question, I am trying to run a 4" exhaust from the y-merge back. Does anyone know if a tailpipe from a 2500 diesel truck would follow the same path as a 1500 gas engine (and fit, ofcourse) It would be cheaper for me to buy one already pre-bent than fabricating one. 4" mandrel bends are not cheap! LOL!

 

[charonblk07]

It would follow a similar route. If you picked up a 5.9L diesel turbo-back system you could easily do the fabrication to get everything to fit but why not just buy the mandrel ends and do it yourself? Would save you a lot more money plus you'd have to do the fabrication anyways to make the turbo-back system work. Mufflers are optional with turbos since they silence a lot of the exhaust pulse waves which means you could quite easily dump it out the side wherever suits you and only spend $200-$300 on bends. Legally, as long as the exhaust tip is behind the cab it's fine.

 

[Maximumrisk]

Hello everyone.
I started work on the air box (tube in this case) to get fresh air from the outside thru the hood scoop. I will order a pair of prefilter "socks" for the air filter. I will also try to get a sheet of the same water-repelling material to put on the scoop opening. I also installed a coolant overflow tank (originally for a fox body mustang ;-D ) and started installing a tank to be used as a winshield washer fluid reservoir (originally for a toyota supra, LOL) i will fisnish that tomorrow. I tried taking a few pics of the exhaust bu it did not photograph well. Anyways, any questions just ask. Here are aome pics

 

[usaf2006]

Looks insane... nice job!

 

[charonblk07]

Looking good, but you are going to be severely restricting your air flow with that cylinder around the filters since you only have 1/3 of them exposed. I know you're going for a ram air effect but with the turbos you want as much air volume as possible and should be less concerned about air temp (within reason) or inlet velocity. The best situation would be filters directly on the turbos or routed downward if you want lower IATs. The last thing you want to do is restrict the inlet volume or you'll choke the impeller. To prove the point I'd recommend driving it with the tube, without the tube, filters on the turbos, then lastly without the filters entirely; monitor the boost level, pressure ratio, and IAT.

 

[Maximumrisk]

Point taken. I dont think it would have been so bad fir a few reasons: the opening in the tube is twice the area of the turbo inlet (opening in the tube is 4.25"x15", the turbo inlet is 4" diameter). The other thing is that the filters taper so they have about one inch all around, the only part of the filter that sits right against the tube is the base. Last thing is that i will only be running 7psi of boost, it it were over 14psi or ao then i would have been more concerned.
But anyways, it may all be a non issue as i am trying to get a water-**** injection kit. In wich case i would ditch the air filter tube / hood scoop part of the project altogether for simplicity's sake.
I appreciate the input!!!
Today, i finished installing the cooling overflow tank and modified the Supra overflow tank to fit the windshield washer pump and low level float/sensor, i was very surprised that this tank holds about 2/3rds of a gallon of washer fluid, i was honestly expecting less than half a gallon. Anyways, thats done . I also extended some wires and moved some vacuum lines in preparation for next week when, hopefully, i will get to install the injectors/ fuel pump and maybe route all the vacuum lines if the vacuum manifold i ordered gets here on time. Some more pics

 

[charonblk07]

What do ya know, exact same place I remounted my washer fluid tank too, yours is just a lot bigger than mine which only hold 1/4 gallon. Have a look at the tank and cap and make sure there's a vent to atmosphere or you can start pulling a vacuum on the tank and your washer pump will stop working, generally when you need it most. I drilled a small pinhole in the water neck and haven't had an issue since.


I would highly recommend the water **** kit, even when I was running low boost I would see ambient intake temps with my kit and now with higher boost I'm about 10*C over ambient with the w/m and intercooler.


As for the intake, I'll just say that I'm an aerospace structural engineer so I have a bit of a background in air flows. That pipe is going to be an issue for you, it's not the inlet area that's the issue, its the inlet design. You need 969.4cfm at 6400rpm or take a 90%VE and you get 862.5cfm and I'm estimating the tube size is 5"Dx16" based on relative size (it's a guestimate I admit) which has a volume of 0.18cuft. You require 5385.5 or 4791.6 air changes per minute and you're trying to squeeze that through a space that is 0.44ft^2 and is not aerodynamically friendly because of the abrupt angle change required.


With the very rough math while travelling at 60mph your intake will be eating a very small path of air because you're restricting your inlet space so at 60mph you will literally only have a path of ambient air that's 38.8ft^3 and being generous with an additional 25% for potential slipstream effect into the inlet that's 48.5cfm and remember your requirement is 862.5cfm. Now are you seeing why I'm concerned about your inlet tube?

 

[Maximumrisk]

What do ya know, exact same place I remounted my washer fluid tank too, yours is just a lot bigger than mine which only hold 1/4 gallon. Have a look at the tank and cap and make sure there's a vent to atmosphere or you can start pulling a vacuum on the tank and your washer pump will stop working, generally when you need it most. I drilled a small pinhole in the water neck and haven't had an issue since.


I would highly recommend the water **** kit, even when I was running low boost I would see ambient intake temps with my kit and now with higher boost I'm about 10*C over ambient with the w/m and intercooler.


As for the intake, I'll just say that I'm an aerospace structural engineer so I have a bit of a background in air flows. That pipe is going to be an issue for you, it's not the inlet area that's the issue, its the inlet design. You need 969.4cfm at 6400rpm or take a 90%VE and you get 862.5cfm and I'm estimating the tube size is 5"Dx16" based on relative size (it's a guestimate I admit) which has a volume of 0.18cuft. You require 5385.5 or 4791.6 air changes per minute and you're trying to squeeze that through a space that is 0.44ft^2 and is not aerodynamically friendly because of the abrupt angle change required.


With the very rough math while travelling at 60mph your intake will be eating a very small path of air because you're restricting your inlet space so at 60mph you will literally only have a path of ambient air that's 38.8ft^3 and being generous with an additional 25% for potential slipstream effect into the inlet that's 48.5cfm and remember your requirement is 862.5cfm. Now are you seeing why I'm concerned about your inlet tube?

Absolutely, i see what you mean.

Have people had problems with water-**** affecting the drive by wire throttle body?. I have been running it in my Mustang for years now without any problems, but the throttle body is cable operated. I was wondering if people have come across issues with it and the drive by wire throttle body

 

[charonblk07]

I was thinking about it over dinner and if you cut out the bottom 1/2-2/3 of the tube you'd be able to pull enough makeup air from the engine bay and have much better flow-through which should drop the temps around the filter you might get the best of both worlds. Leave the top 1/3 and ends around the tube to act as a deflector and I think you'd have a functional intake.

There is no issues with the w/m with the TB, the velocity that the air passes through the TB does not allow any buildup of fluid inside the TB throat so there's no way it can migrate into the electronics casing. All that's in the housing is a simple stepper motor connected to a 1/3 gear which behaves the same as the cable driven TBs at that point.

 

[Maximumrisk]

What do ya know, exact same place I remounted my washer fluid tank too, yours is just a lot bigger than mine which only hold 1/4 gallon. Have a look at the tank and cap and make sure there's a vent to atmosphere or you can start pulling a vacuum on the tank and your washer pump will stop working, generally when you need it most. I drilled a small pinhole in the water neck and haven't had an issue since.


I would highly recommend the water **** kit, even when I was running low boost I would see ambient intake temps with my kit and now with higher boost I'm about 10*C over ambient with the w/m and intercooler.


As for the intake, I'll just say that I'm an aerospace structural engineer so I have a bit of a background in air flows. That pipe is going to be an issue for you, it's not the inlet area that's the issue, its the inlet design. You need 969.4cfm at 6400rpm or take a 90%VE and you get 862.5cfm and I'm estimating the tube size is 5"Dx16" based on relative size (it's a guestimate I admit) which has a volume of 0.18cuft. You require 5385.5 or 4791.6 air changes per minute and you're trying to squeeze that through a space that is 0.44ft^2 and is not aerodynamically friendly because of the abrupt angle change required.


With the very rough math while travelling at 60mph your intake will be eating a very small path of air because you're restricting your inlet space so at 60mph you will literally only have a path of ambient air that's 38.8ft^3 and being generous with an additional 25% for potential slipstream effect into the inlet that's 48.5cfm and remember your requirement is 862.5cfm. Now are you seeing why I'm concerned about your inlet tube?

I see what you are saying. I think I will scratch the idea for now as it is going to consume a lot of my time to do it right and I am trying to get this thing done before winter really hits!. I am considering getting a tig welder, if I do, then I will take my time over the winter and make a better air box for it.
As for the washer tank; yes, it is vented. This tank was originally a coolant over flow so there is a fitting by the filler cap, to which I just connected a small 90 degree hose (pointing up to avoid spilling when refilling the bottle) to act as a vent

 

[Maximumrisk]

Very little progress this weekend. Very little of the stuff i ordered made here, WTF! I ordered a screw on air temp "kit" to weld to the cold side and it did not show up, neither did any of the fuel related stuff. The guy that welds aluminum for me gave me the finger, LOL (never called me back). I did get the exhaust, i went with a 4" magnaflow, but my friends shop was super busy and he could not let me use his lift, so that will be next week.
Anyways, i did install a Moroso air/water separator which will draw from the filler neck to a Ford electric emissions pump (vacuum pump) which will take care of crankcase-evacuation duties. The oem pcv valve will be plugged. If you ask, but where is the electric pump? well it did not get here either LOL!
I also installed a vacuum relief valve right on the oil filler cap ( i did not want to remove the valve cover) maybe in the future i will move it to the valve cover)

 

[Maximumrisk]

I have come across a charging problem. It shows all the symptoms of alternator/voltage regulator problems, but i am not 100% sure. On first start up the volt gauge is slow to recoup. Once idling, the volt gauge can go to zero, i rev the engine and it comes back up, if i turn on the accessories it slowly goes down until dropping to zero and the "check gauges" light comes on, if i turn off the accesories and rev the engine it slowly comes back up.
I almost bought a new alternator today, but remembered about the battery temperature sensor (that one sensor that sits underneath the battery). I relocated the battery to the back. Right now that sensor is plugged into the harness but it is sensing anything, it is just sitting there. My question is: is it possible that this sensor not reading the battery temp could be causing my voltage drop, it did my alternator take a crap?

 

[Maximumrisk]

Also, i have the 136amp alternator, can i swap it out for a 160-something amp alternator? Or would it affect the computer as it regulates voltage?

 

[Maximumrisk]

i finished the exhaust today, except for the tip. I am going to have to do something custom to match the shape of the skirt of the Daytona









By the way, i got tired of the guys that used to do aluminum welding for me giving me the run around, "i cant today", "come back tomorrow", not returning messages or calls, and i said **** it! And ordered a tig welder, LOL, nothing fancy, just an entry level welder, but for what i am going to use it it will be perfect.

Ps, i need to undercoat the bottom of this truck! Geez, i noticed how bad it is getting! What products are most popular? POR maybe?

 

[usaf2006]

Yeah POR15 from what I've heard. And my entry level arc welder is on its way for Christmas too haha. We'll see what I can self teach!

 

[DRE_MEX]

Bad ass

 

[Maximumrisk]

Hey everyone. Here is an update:
I decided to do my own fuel system. I was going to have a shop do it for me, but the weather has help up very nicely so I gave it a go. I followed a link posted by ATXHEMI, late 2004-2008/9 custom efi AN setup - Hemi Truck Club (thanks man! ) to modify the oem fuel canister to use AN fittings. I am using a single Walbro400.
I was able to squeeze the feed and return on the same vicinity though which should keep me from starving the pump at lower fuel levels. We shall see
I also got an OCPerformance intake, 6061com elbow, Aeromotive rails, regulator, fittings, lines, etc. I need a to buy a compact return fitting for the driver side rail. I still do not have injectors though, still doing research on which ones to go with and what size.
I am hoping to install all related fuel system components next week if my friend can let me use his lift
Anyways, here are a few random pics