Thinking about adding aftermarket subwoofer system under the rear seat...

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BWL

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IMG_20180503_155305.jpg Here's a shot of the difference in the seat backs. Only 1 side lifted so far so you can see the contrast. Seat does not fold forward. Car seat tethers are easily accessible. Also of note I haven't noticed any rattles of the floor.
 

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JL should include these spacers.
Given the price I agree or at the very least make an optional kit. I haven't decided if I want to notch the seat lift for the subwoofer mounting bracket or lift the other 3 corners the thickness of it to give me an extra 3/16" lift. I think they used to spec bolting it in through the floor, but now it has 2 brackets that mount to the front outer seat bolts. That should be my last decision to make on this.
 
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corneileous

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Well, today’s the big day...finally...lol.

But after what’s been said before by BWL, after doing some preliminary fitting, the Stealthbox fits actually alright with the load floor all folded up and the seat down as you can see. 3d258275478a6e15544193545426d4db.jpgd78f7400cc4674685ed1dd1b376b7c67.jpg
But when you go to fold that floor out, it doesn’t touch the floor as it has a hump in it. 9012793bf5f615bc62545de927ebe07e.jpg
Guess I could try taking those little bumpers off the top of the box to see if I could get a little more clearance but as I already stated before, that load floor; although awful neat and handy, I really don’t need it and would just assume take it out but kudos to BWL for that nice little write up on how to raise the seat to accommodate it for those who don’t wanna sacrifice losing it to get better bass.


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WilliamS

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I removed my flat floor 2 years ago and havent missed it. My foxbox loaded up with Alpine type s's make everything useless under the seat anyways.

On a side note, if anyone has some kidney stones they need to break up I have the right amount of power to assist.
 

BWL

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The rubber bumpers are there to keep the load floor off the grill. After the lift the floor rested on the bumpers and the front edge of the box. Also the 1/4" load floor lift made it so the seat rested on the floor slightly, but still lands on the rubber seat pads properly. That could be why they don't rattle. They wouldn't fold out easily until I lifted the seat though as it had to lay flatter to clear the folded up seat. Looking at the back seat folded down you'd never realize I'd done anything unless you were really looking. Tall people still don't hit their head in the back either. I did a test run on that already.
 
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corneileous

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Well I know all y’all’s dyin’ for a review so, here goes...lol.

So far, I couldn’t be happier. This thing really pounds. I’m impressed. Now, I’m not gonna say it wouldn’t sound better if it had that LC2i line output converter between it and the factory amp, or if it had that PAC Audio Amp-4 module thing that a lot of people recommended but as it is without all that, this thing is blowing me away as it is, literally.

But just to refresh the memory of the discussion, all I used was the RCA audio adapters to hook speaker wires to both sides of the plug that fed the factory sub, to a 600 watt, 2 channel, 2-ohm JL Audio amp through the RCA inputs. As per a JL Audio rep, I set the amp up to his exact specifications and while using a multi-meter, I set the input sensitivity to around 34.6 volts. I might play around with the filter frequency tomorrow sometime but in the meantime it’s set to 80 Hz as per the JL Audio rep for a starting point.

As far as mounting the amp, I just mounted it to a piece of 3/4 MDF and cut it to about an 1/8 of an inch larger than the amp and used a bunch of Velcro on the bottom of the MDF and just stuck it to the carpet on the driver side of the cab under the rear seat near the back of the cab. I got JL’s remote amp control knob hooked up kinda under the dash to control the volume.

This thing’s awesome, guys. Couldn’t be happier. I guess maybe this winter I could think about trying the line out converter. I dunno. I’m gonna sample this like it is for a while.

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Edited to add these last two pics to show my remote bass control knob for the amp. It’s just below the dash on the right side of the footwell.
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BWL

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Glad you're happy with it corneileous. I like the bass knob location. Was thinking I'd do something along those lines, but with the DSR1 the bass control is the bass control on the head unit so it wasn't needed after all. I ended up with my crossover set at 90hz for mine. (same box and amp). My amps are on the back wall behind the seat, but your way makes it easier to adjust them.
 
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corneileous

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Glad you're happy with it corneileous. I like the bass knob location. Was thinking I'd do something along those lines, but with the DSR1 the bass control is the bass control on the head unit so it wasn't needed after all. I ended up with my crossover set at 90hz for mine. (same box and amp). My amps are on the back wall behind the seat, but your way makes it easier to adjust them.

Thanks man, I really appreciate it. No disrespect at all to anyone to the previous part of the discussion but I was kinda worried about not using anything but those little RCA speaker wire adapters since the way I hooked it up wasn’t the preferred method but I dunno, I’d have to listen to someone else’s setup in person to compare theirs to mine to hear a difference. Let’s put it this way, while parked in the driveway about 20, 30 feet away from the house, cranked up to a little over half while playing one of those many bass test videos on YouTube, I can rattle the **** out of the windows in the house....lol. It’s amazing the amount of bass I have and how hard this thing hits.

Like I said before, I imagine it could be better but damn, I don’t see why. Lol. These are just 10’s. Not even really competition subs. With just one little bitty 600 wat amp...Lol.

You have JL Audio’s XD-600? What did moving the the hertz to 90 change? I might try that.


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Thanks man, I really appreciate it. No disrespect at all to anyone to the previous part of the discussion but I was kinda worried about not using anything but those little RCA speaker wire adapters since the way I hooked it up wasn’t the preferred method but I dunno, I’d have to listen to someone else’s setup in person to compare theirs to mine to hear a difference. Let’s put it this way, while parked in the driveway about 20, 30 feet away from the house, cranked up to a little over half while playing one of those many bass test videos on YouTube, I can rattle the **** out of the windows in the house....lol. It’s amazing the amount of bass I have and how hard this thing hits.

Like I said before, I imagine it could be better but damn, I don’t see why. Lol. These are just 10’s. Not even really competition subs. With just one little bitty 600 wat amp...Lol.

You have JL Audio’s XD-600? What did moving the the hertz to 90 change? I might try that.


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Changing it to 90 is a minor change. Just picks up a little more of the higher low end. I've run as high as 120 on certain subs and as low as 50 on some bigger ones because they weren't that punchy, but for these subs to my ear 90 is the number.
 
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corneileous

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So for $1500 you are getting to two subs, a box, and an amp....thats alot of money for so little.

I hate to dig up bones on an old post but uh, I’d say the $1500 bucks was very well spent. [emoji41]


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Used a drill and tap to the back wall Incase people were looking for mounting ideas. Mmmmmm 1500 Watts rms vs 2 Alpine Type S 12’s ported.
 

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IMG_20180506_143908.jpg My subs and amps installed. Going to get some ridgid felt like on the floor under the seat to cover up where you can see wiring and dynamat, but al in all it looks decent.
 

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View attachment 127623 My subs and amps installed. Going to get some ridgid felt like on the floor under the seat to cover up where you can see wiring and dynamat, but al in all it looks decent.

That seatbelt sucks! If it were not there you can run a clean board across and layout. Oh well, still room and Dayton needs to hurry up with their DSP
 
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corneileous

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View attachment 127623 My subs and amps installed. Going to get some ridgid felt like on the floor under the seat to cover up where you can see wiring and dynamat, but al in all it looks decent.

Why two amps? I’m running just one of them XD-600 amps, and seems to be plenty.


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Why two amps? I’m running just one of them XD-600 amps, and seems to be plenty.


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The little one is the XD600.1 for the subs. The big one is the XD800.8 running 100X4 to my dash tweeters and rear door speakers and 200X2 to my front door mid/bass
 

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That seatbelt sucks! If it were not there you can run a clean board across and layout. Oh well, still room and Dayton needs to hurry up with their DSP
Still just 1 board,but I had to leave a gap between the amps for seatbelt. I could easily fit 2 more amps back there if I wanted to. I'm really very happy with the DSR1. Fits neatly under the dash and the integrated 3sixty DSP is decent
 

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The little one is the XD600.1 for the subs. The big one is the XD800.8 running 100X4 to my dash tweeters and rear door speakers and 200X2 to my front door mid/bass

Nice choice of hardware! I wish I had that budget.
 
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