Load Range D Tires on Ram 2500

[olyelr]

If you want to get an idea. Look up the specs on a power wagon, more then likely unless your trailer is going to have a lot of tongue weight you’ll be fine, even with my 3500, very rarely I do I have over 1000-1500 lbs of tongue weight from my trailer


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The payload on my ‘16 power wagon is less than my ‘17 half ton. By 260 pounds.

 

[U&A]

FYI if you call nitto and give them your truck specs they will tell you your recommended P..S.I.also anybody that spends anytime on this forum should now how to deal with there TPMS.very easy fix

There are so many sections, threads, post on this forum that you can not expect people that “have spent any time” on this forum to know something that you do. I have been here for 3 years and thousand of post.

I have no idea how to fix TPMS problems.




Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[warwickram]

I dont expect anything.just tring to help.as you see in my response i sent the op in the right direction

 

[LouM]

I am always amazed at the information slung around as facts on tires and the inflation of tires.
Some people have posted that a "D" range tire couldn't handle a Power Wagon, those tires likely have a load capacity of 3000 pounds each.
All tires have a load capacity to inflated pressure loading, some manufactures make it easy to find some don't.
The attached PDF from TOYO tires explains tires and their load capacities at various pressures,
there is no reason to run a tire inflated to the maximum value marked on the tire unless you are routinlly loading that tire to it's maximum load capacity.
This is a good source of information.
https://www.toyotires.com/media/2125/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20170203.pdf

 

[G. Mcpherson]

I am always amazed at the information slung around as facts on tires and the inflation of tires.
Some people have posted that a "D" range tire couldn't handle a Power Wagon, those tires likely have a load capacity of 3000 pounds each.
All tires have a load capacity to inflated pressure loading, some manufactures make it easy to find some don't.
The attached PDF from TOYO tires explains tires and their load capacities at various pressures,
there is no reason to run a tire inflated to the maximum value marked on the tire unless you are routinlly loading that tire to it's maximum load capacity.
This is a good source of information.
https://www.toyotires.com/media/2125/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20170203.pdf

I have been using this Chart for quite some time now. Works well for me. My last truck I was running 295-60-20 Nitto G2's. Front at 46 and rear 45. Very even wear and had 26k on them when I traded it in. Easy 50+K wear with 5k rotations.

 

[Marine Les]

Bottom line is are you loading to the max rating on tire? if not run em at max psi and you will be OK.

 

[Rambojoe]

Some folks have reported similar issues with the Duratracs & the BFG KO2 tires.

I am getting rid of my KO2s (similar issues, good wear but they are wobbling & egging as they age) and get some Nittos that meet the load range spec of my 2500.

Not sure which Nittos you are referring to but I went 35/11.50/20 Grappler G2s and I’m not impressed. As a matter of fact they have 7k miles on them and they won’t hardly balance. Need to replace one and maybe two under warranty. They are a bit mushy as well, wish I would’ve stayed with stock size.

 

[RoadRamblerNJ]

The handling issue is most likely sidewall flex, as the d rated tyres are probably close to their limit when the ram is empty and cornering.

It's a very bad idea to put under rated tyres on any vehicle, whether it's load or speed rating.
In the event of an accident you will probably have insurance issues as well.

Over here it's illegal to fit tyres on any vehicle that aren't rated to at least the numbers on the placard fitted to the vehicle. Tyre fitters won't do it as they can be held liable if the vehicle is involved in an accident.

As an ex otr driver in the states and current transport company owner in outback Australia I can assure you that money spent on tyres is money well spent.

After all its your life on the line... [emoji848]



Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk

Well said, hoe.

 

[RoadRamblerNJ]

I've pretty much made up my mind the Duratracs are coming off. So after doing some research I've narrowed it down to these 3.
Cooper Discoverer ST Maxx 295/70/18
Nitto Ridge Grappler 295/70/18
Falken Wildpeak A/T3W 295/75/18

All of these tires show a max psi of 80 which is what Dodge wants on the rear tpms, How big of a deal is that? Even a lot of the load range E tires show a max of 65psi.

FYI, I run all 4 at 80 psi. I tried 65 in the fronts as is recommended. Truck handled poorly. Felt like it was "oversteering" when a quick lane change was needed. That is unsettling.
At 80, that never happens. I also tend to push this beast hard. My last HD truck was a Fiat Abarth!
Just my worthless opinion

 

[RoadRamblerNJ]

I’m running 285/75/18 duratracs (load range e thou) and I run them 45 front, and 40 rear when empty, the vibration is just the tire I think, I had the same issue with mine till I did some pulling and got about 5k on them, I absolutely love them, the vibration wasn’t extremely bad, but now it’s next to none, and in the snow, they are unstoppable (in a good way)

Anyways, I won’t run any tire at 60-80psi unless I’m pulling, otherwise the wear like garage being you are only driving on the center of the tire, and will handle worse then a Mack dump truck


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I completely disagree with your statement. My CCLB 6.4 4X4 Handles better with 80 psi all around. I am at heart, still a road racer in a HD truck now but still driving like I'm in my Abarth. I have tried many different tire pressures looking for what is fastest through turns and guess what? 80 is the #.

I don't know how you drive or what you're comfort criteria are. Yes, it is a stiff ride at 80 psi. It's a HD truck. It should be stiff. FCA says 80 Rr. and 65 Frt. I don't see where you get off dropping to 45 & 40 and think thats fine. That's only HALF the recommended pressure! It's not safe, it's somewhat dangerous. You're relying on your sidewalls to hold up all that weight instead of allowing air pressure to do it. Having a little extra air pressure in a tire does not cause me any wear problems at all. I rotate them every 5k when changing my oil. I am running stock size mud terrain tires and they are wearing very evenly with no wobble. I'm not sure why you've had the problems you speak of but my point is, it's not happening here.
PS: It was also common practice to run 40 psi in all 4 tires on our police cars when I did that for a living. Tires were marked 35 and door jamb said 32 psi. We ran them at 40 because we didn't want to peel a tire off a rim in a persuit.

My intention is to be educational, not snarky. I sometimes come off the latter. Please understand, I'm just relaying my opinion, form from my driving history. I probably should slow down a little since I turned 60 this year. Just can't.

 

[RoadRamblerNJ]

I guess at this point I need to decide if I need to get and E tire or not. I really don't tow much and if i do it's not heavy.

If this is all true, why are you even in an HD truck? 1500s ride like a car.

 

[RoadRamblerNJ]

I guess I haven’t spent enough time yet because I don’t know the fix


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Disconnect the battery for 30 minutes. It will reset and read the new pressure and not cause any lights or warning to appear.
That's it.

 

[LouM]

Like I said previously

 

[Lucy Girl]

So here's my dilemma, I found a smoking deal on a set of 35x12.5x18 Goodyear Duratracs. Previous owner said they had less than 10k miles on them. Snatched them up took them to my local tire shop who has always done good work and had them mounted. When they called to tell me the truck was done they asked if I knew the tires were a D load range and the tires I had taken off were E load range. I did not. That being said the max psi on the Duratracs being a load range D and a 35x12.5 tire 65psi. I told them that was fine and I would just deal with the low tire pressure warning later. After about a week, of driving I'm very disappointed. I have a bad vibration between 50-70mph and the truck doesn't feel like it handles as well. I'm seriously considering taking these off and buying a set of Cooper ST Maxx tires in a 295/70/18 which are a 3 ply sidewall or Mastercraft Courser CXT which are a 2 ply sidewall in the same size. Any thoughts or suggestions before I go dropping another $1200 or more on tires?

The previous tires were Kelly Edge A/T's which I did like but wanted something that would fill out the wheel well a little more since I put the Bilstein leveling coils and shocks on the truck.

Actually ended up not being a good thing after all. Sorry to hear that.

 

[CYSTemrebel]

Deviating down from stock fodder, unless in a real UPGRADE action, will almost always cause headaches. I did it ONCE over my years and it was at best an irritating mistake. There are exceptions, the latest being my decision to upgrade to front end components which have grease fittings. This was the replacement of OEM components with better quality items that will also not need replacing in such short term intervals.

 

[Pttrader]

Hi Bennutts, I was upgrading my tires last fall cause there was no way I was gonna slip and slide around with those stock Firestones. Anyway, I went with a set of 295/70/18 Nitto Ridge Grapplers. I had them on my last rig and they are good for Winter driving and clean out instantly after leaving the gravel. They could not get them to stop vibrating and had to order another set. Same problem... They told me that the Nittos needed to warm up first, but after a 45 minute drive they never stopped vibrating! (Even after road force balancing) Well, I had to come up with a replacement so I suggested to the dealer Toyos. He said that Nittos and Toyos are from the same manufacturer and that he can't sell Toyos since he deals Nittos.

After some research I came across the Cooper At3 XLTs in the 295/70/18 size and after they installed them my vibration was gone and my ride was also smoother like the Firestones. The Coopers are an "E" load tire rated at 4080#s. I believe they are a 2 ply sidewall, but they have that extra tread on the sidewall that I like for running over curves when I can't get the Heavy Duty around those tight corners!

They are good in the Winter and they do not clean out instantly like the Nittos. I believe they clean out faster than the Ko2s I've had in the past... I've towed a 12k 5th wheel with the stock tires last year and really did not notice excessive sway, even with wind. I have yet to try these Coopers with the 5th wheel, but I will do so now that it is camping season.

 

[Bennutts]

Hi Bennutts, I was upgrading my tires last fall cause there was no way I was gonna slip and slide around with those stock Firestones. Anyway, I went with a set of 295/70/18 Nitto Ridge Grapplers. I had them on my last rig and they are good for Winter driving and clean out instantly after leaving the gravel. They could not get them to stop vibrating and had to order another set. Same problem... They told me that the Nittos needed to warm up first, but after a 45 minute drive they never stopped vibrating! (Even after road force balancing) Well, I had to come up with a replacement so I suggested to the dealer Toyos. He said that Nittos and Toyos are from the same manufacturer and that he can't sell Toyos since he deals Nittos.

After some research I came across the Cooper At3 XLTs in the 295/70/18 size and after they installed them my vibration was gone and my ride was also smoother like the Firestones. The Coopers are an "E" load tire rated at 4080#s. I believe they are a 2 ply sidewall, but they have that extra tread on the sidewall that I like for running over curves when I can't get the Heavy Duty around those tight corners!

They are good in the Winter and they do not clean out instantly like the Nittos. I believe they clean out faster than the Ko2s I've had in the past... I've towed a 12k 5th wheel with the stock tires last year and really did not notice excessive sway, even with wind. I have yet to try these Coopers with the 5th wheel, but I will do so now that it is camping season.

I appreciate the info. I’m still in decision making mode. If I do pull the trigger on another set of tires it will more than likely be the Coopers. I still have a vibration at 50-60mph I’m trying to sort out. I took off a set of Kelly Edge A/T that still have a lot of tread left so I’m still thinking about putting those back on and running them until the tread wear requires new tires. I’m really disappointed with the issues I’m having with the duratracs. I love the way they look, but I'm of the age where function and comfort are starting to out weight cool looks. I’m running the duratracs at 50psi all around and the Kelly tires that I had at 60psi front and 80psi rear were a better ride. I’ll probably give it another week or two and then really decide.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Lucy Girl]

So you think airing down will make things better?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It does for me. 55 in front and 40 In the rear. E rated Michelin.

 

[Lucy Girl]

Wait..... you have a 2500?

And your are running 45 in the front!


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

I can’t believe 45 on a 2500. In the front. WOW.

 

[Marshall]

I don't drive HD any more, I think the brand name could be your biggest problem