Another stuck roller lifter?

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Sherman Bird

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I don't think any company wants a product that lasts 30 years, they wouldn't stay in business very long.
And personally, I'd get bored with the same truck for 3 decades no matter how reliable.

But that's just me.

Yeah, Generous Motors used to say that, too, back in the day. They wanted vehicles to get to the point that folks would buy new. "Planned obsolescence" I believe was the buzz word.
 

crash68

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I asked him if he had considered how many of these trucks were in service which never had problems, and I pointed out that Chevrolet made 10's of thousands of that model each year. He admitted that he didn't consider the other side of the coin, and rescinded the comment by saying that perhaps he was wrong.

FCA produces their trucks by the shipload and most never have a moment of trouble. I guess that when it happens to you, the whole experience tends to make you think in broad terms about the model.
Most people don't realize that most mass produced vehicles today roll off the assembly line at a rate of at least 60/hr if not more. That's close to 2K vehicles per 5 day week for one shift, most run two shifts.
 

Sherman Bird

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I know I'm late to the party here, but I think you should definitely take it to the dealer and get your complaint logged into the system. Assuming they don't fix it, I would carefully take notes to document everything that happens there when you do go in---date, time, who you spoke with, what they said, etc. Get it all down as well as you can. That could help if a future conflict arises. I always document these kind of "discussions". The first question I get in a later discussion when things don't work out is "Who did you talk to?".

On the side topic mentioned in this thread, about maybe a new smaller truck that might show up: how about a Dakota-sized truck with the 305hp V6 like is in my 2019 with the 8-speed and a good gear ratio and LSD? My V6 feels more powerful in normal driving than my old 5.9l V8 was (w/o the low-speed grunt, tho). It pulls my 5400# truck around fine. Now if it was in a 3500# truck, say, I think it would be a lot of fun, no?

The lifter design is different in the V6 too, and I hope it holds up better than the Hemi's but who knows. I will stick with my old-timers' method of oil changes every 5,000 miles, and I add Moly as per Burla's rec's, but I ramble, sorry. Happy Trails and Good Luck

The Pentastar V-6 has overhead cams. That is a completely different (superior, IMHO) design over pushrod engines! Mileage intervals are affected by one other gorilla in this room.... chemical contaminants from combustion bypass. Nobody has mentioned that when touting 10,000 mile intervals. Moreover, there's the crud caused by moisture condensation. I see the color and texture of oil when I drain it after extended drain periods exceeding 8000 miles. At that point, here in the Greater Houston vicinity, the high levels of moisture in the atmosphere do cause sludge build up inside an engine.

All arguments and self declarations aside, 5000 miles is the maximum mileage due next service which I'll put on the reminder stickers. Many times, I'll change oil on a car at 5000 miles when the computer says there is 20-30% oil life remaining, yet the oil drained out is jet black.

I'm not going to tender anyone's oil for uoa. Being that many folks regard their car as similar to the dishwasher or laundry equipment, and the trash heaps inside, and the car is filthy, I'll merely perform my service, thank them for the business, and go about my day!
 

El Huapo

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Yep, I have always done my oil changes at 5K intervals. That was the old Chrysler Products requirement to keep the warranty up in the '60s when I started driving and I find that numbers like 5 and 10 match my limited brain power alertness. About $30-$35 if you do it yourself is cheap insurance.
 

El Huapo

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The Pentastar V-6 has overhead cams. That is a completely different (superior, IMHO) design over pushrod engines! Mileage intervals are affected by one other gorilla in this room.... chemical contaminants from combustion bypass. Nobody has mentioned that when touting 10,000 mile intervals. Moreover, there's the crud caused by moisture condensation. I see the color and texture of oil when I drain it after extended drain periods exceeding 8000 miles. At that point, here in the Greater Houston vicinity, the high levels of moisture in the atmosphere do cause sludge build up inside an engine.

All arguments and self declarations aside, 5000 miles is the maximum mileage due next service which I'll put on the reminder stickers. Many times, I'll change oil on a car at 5000 miles when the computer says there is 20-30% oil life remaining, yet the oil drained out is jet black.

I'm not going to tender anyone's oil for uoa. Being that many folks regard their car as similar to the dishwasher or laundry equipment, and the trash heaps inside, and the car is filthy, I'll merely perform my service, thank them for the business, and go about my day!

Why I bought the V6. Not to claim that they can't fail, but I like the whole design and love the ride. Never had a truck so nice. :patriot:
 

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I had an ohc motor the 5.6 in a titan it lacked the heart that the pushrod motor (mainly idle) has also you are extremely limited on what you can do later cam wise- you can get way more performance enhancements with a pushrod motor.
 

Sherman Bird

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I had an ohc motor the 5.6 in a titan it lacked the heart that the pushrod motor (mainly idle) has also you are extremely limited on what you can do later cam wise- you can get way more performance enhancements with a pushrod motor.

Tell that to Ferrari or Lamborghini.
 

LeesEvoX

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I had an ohc motor the 5.6 in a titan it lacked the heart that the pushrod motor (mainly idle) has also you are extremely limited on what you can do later cam wise- you can get way more performance enhancements with a pushrod motor.
Uummm. If you think there are more performance benefits using a single cam. You are wrong my friend.

DOHC will always out perform a pushrod engine (of the same size). Not to mention a DOHC with variable valve timing. It just gives you more control.

DOHC also have the advantage of being overhead and directly control the movement of the valve. So with the right fuel and timing, you can have more revs. More revs equals more power. (This also depends on how big the stroke is)

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seabrook

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I’m talking aftermarket re read my post
 

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Uummm. If you think there are more performance benefits using a single cam. You are wrong my friend.

DOHC will always out perform a pushrod engine (of the same size). Not to mention a DOHC with variable valve timing. It just gives you more control.

DOHC also have the advantage of being overhead and directly control the movement of the valve. So with the right fuel and timing, you can have more revs. More revs equals more power. (This also depends on how big the stroke is)

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Aftermarket!! Re read my post
 

seabrook

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My friends son did a comp cams stage 1 with sstl works long tubes on his 2017 5.0 mustang he got almost no lope because of the cam gears and very little from the cams it was mostly from the LTs and tune.

yes I know performance is better on DOHC but they have very little to gain from cams due to the nature of the DOHC design. I have a Yamaha FZ SVHO and at 1.8 liters it puts out 250+ hp on low boost if I increase the boost just a few pounds raise the rev limiter by less than a 1000 I’m already in 350+ hp BUT do I have a cam option that really makes a difference NOPE!!!
 

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If I did cams on my titan it would have been a 30 rwhp gain that cost 7k! Compare that to a pushrod cam upgrade!
 

LeesEvoX

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Aftermarket!! Re read my post
I dont care aftermarket or not.

The reason Ferrari and Lamborghini dont have options for cams is because, 1) Nobody would be willing to fork out thousands of dollars for a new cam. And 2) the OEM cam profiles (And everything else in that engine) is already designed for maximum performance.

It isnt solely about lift and duration of a cam. Its how it is CONTROLLED. Why do you think Koenigsegg is investing so much time, and money into a camless engine?

I tell you why. Because getting rid of a camshaft completely, and replacing it with a solenoid over each individual valve gives complete control over EVERYTHING. you can adjust intake and exhaust individual of each other, and adjust int/ext on each individual cylinder.

For example. my old DOHC Mitsubishi Evo (Yes i know, a 4 banger) has a fuel rail, fuel comes into the rail, and straight into cylinder 1, but takes a little longer to get all the way to the back, into cylinder 4. This causes cylinder 4 to run a little hotter than all others. So i ended up having to pull a bit of timing.

If i had a camless engine. i could adjust when the intake valve opens and closes on just that 1 cylinder. Which would in turn cool it down, and allow me to run more timing.
 

LeesEvoX

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My friends son did a comp cams stage 1 with sstl works long tubes on his 2017 5.0 mustang he got almost no lope because of the cam gears and very little from the cams it was mostly from the LTs and tune.

yes I know performance is better on DOHC but they have very little to gain from cams due to the nature of the DOHC design. I have a Yamaha FZ SVHO and at 1.8 liters it puts out 250+ hp on low boost if I increase the boost just a few pounds raise the rev limiter by less than a 1000 I’m already in 350+ hp BUT do I have a cam option that really makes a difference NOPE!!!

Well its a stage 1 cam... what do you expect? lope also doesnt mean you make gobs of power either. having a lope at idle just means you picked a cam which is too big for your requirements, or you are just pushing for maximum HP, and dont care about drivability.

these examples are also on N/A engine. Which never get the biggest gains from a cam. no matter what the engine. because an N/A engine can only push so much air.

Now add a turbo, or supercharger in there. And a cam will give MASSIVE gains.
 

Sherman Bird

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2018 RAM 1500, only 10k miles, first owner, no mods or tunes, just developed the well known tick today when I started it in my garage.

It went away after a ride, will test again tomorrow with a cold engine.

The tick is rather loud and comes from the passenger side head, I immediately knew that something was going on. Below a video.

My best guess is yet another stuck roller lifter. Would also love to hear from those that had this issue. Its a common issue and it sucks that Dodge didn't manage to get it fixed over the years.

Truck is obviously under warranty. Should I bring it in right away even though it may not show any misfires yet? Are dealers playing dumb and trying to send people back home? Are they going to replace the entire engine if the lobe is totally ruined? Will they agree to use the upgraded lifters from the hellcat motor?

Any other suggestions?




Wouldnnt it be great if they designed a completely new Hemi with twin overhead cams?! This would eliminate so many woes in the mechanics of lifters and their failures, but would require a different way to kill off cylinders for fuel economy. Look at some BMW's and the Fiat 500's with no intake manifold or throttle. Engine cam timing and throttling is done through variable opening valves! Of course, they are riddled with their own unique quirks! ;)
 

Sherman Bird

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Wouldn't it be great if they designed a completely new Hemi with twin overhead cams?! This would eliminate so many woes in the mechanics of lifters and their failures, but would require a different way to kill off cylinders for fuel economy. Look at some BMW's and the Fiat 500's with no intake manifold or throttle. Engine cam timing and throttling is done through variable opening valves! Of course, they are riddled with their own unique quirks! ;)
 

seabrook

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Well its a stage 1 cam... what do you expect? lope also doesnt mean you make gobs of power either. having a lope at idle just means you picked a cam which is too big for your requirements, or you are just pushing for maximum HP, and dont care about drivability.

these examples are also on N/A engine. Which never get the biggest gains from a cam. no matter what the engine. because an N/A engine can only push so much air.

Now add a turbo, or supercharger in there. And a cam will give MASSIVE gains.
Of course but let’s
Well its a stage 1 cam... what do you expect? lope also doesnt mean you make gobs of power either. having a lope at idle just means you picked a cam which is too big for your requirements, or you are just pushing for maximum HP, and dont care about drivability.

these examples are also on N/A engine. Which never get the biggest gains from a cam. no matter what the engine. because an N/A engine can only push so much air.

Now add a turbo, or supercharger in there. And a cam will give MASSIVE gains.

for 7k I’d expect more than 30 RWHP!

still does not matter a push rod motor is better for performance or top fuel dragsters would be DOHC they are push rod motors. That’s what I’m saying I think factory spec dual overhead cam motors are great but when it comes to pure performance and aftermarket push rod motors are better.
 
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Sherman Bird

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Of course but let’s


for 7k I’d expect more than 30 RWHP!

still does not matter a push rod motor is better for performance or top fuel dragsters would be DOHC they are push rod motors. That’s what I’m saying I think factory spec dual overhead cam motors are great but when it comes to pure performance and aftermarket push rod motors are better.

The next time I'm in the market for a dragster engine powered vehicle, I'll keep what you say in mind. BTW, what on earth would I want 10,000 horsepower for? ;)
 
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