Pennzoil Ultra Platinum vs Platinum 5W-20 Oil Analysis

[Burla]

Once sheared they don't go back, and every uoa measures shear, so you can see if your engine is shearing.

I think that dude was posting some paper from way back when 10w40 was invented, much has changed with vii's since.

Staff member JHZR2 last point is what I'm talking about

What gives more film, 5w20 or 5w30? Well 5w30 is just 5w20 plus vii's, or should I say can be.

 

[Quyonmob]

Great thread, as I also debate PP or PuP when I am looking to restock.

 

[Travis8352]

Currently I don't hear any ticking, however, on three occasions several months ago I did hear a couple of seconds of ticking after starting my truck from being turned off for an hour or two. Each time the ticking quickly went away and hasn't come back. So now I'm trying to preemptively avoid it from coming back, it if at all possible, with good oil and oil change intervals.

Due to my location, I don't have access to Redline and getting any shipped here is difficult but I'm still looking. Also, I'm still checking around for LubeGuard but that might not be an option. This is what I can easily get my hands on in 5W-30:

Penzzoil Platinum ($23.97/5qt)
Quaker State Ultra Durability ($21.97/5qt)
Valvoline Full Synthetic ($12.37/qt)
Royal Purple ($61.99/gal and $13.69/qt)

Which would you guys choose?

Thanks!

I get that same startup tick for a few seconds every once in a while. Maybe 5 times in 2 years 4 times on pp and once on schaeffers. But only 1000 miles on schaeffers so far. From what i read royal purple aint what it used to be. Their hps is a good oil but i still havnt heard good on it for the hemi. Valvoline voas looks great but i havnt read much for valvoline in the hemi. Why id redline hard to find/ship for you?

 

[PE7EY]

I get that same startup tick for a few seconds every once in a while. Maybe 5 times in 2 years 4 times on pp and once on schaeffers. But only 1000 miles on schaeffers so far. From what i read royal purple aint what it used to be. Their hps is a good oil but i still havnt heard good on it for the hemi. Valvoline voas looks great but i havnt read much for valvoline in the hemi. Why id redline hard to find/ship for you?

So far I haven't found anyone locally who carries it and shipping restrictions, cost and logistics to my location make it difficult. I live in the middle of the Pacific.

 

[Travis8352]

So far I haven't found anyone locally who carries it and shipping restrictions, cost and logistics to my location make it difficult. I live in the middle of the Pacific.

Ahh yeah would be a pricey ship im sure if at all possible

 

[Different Drummer]

I don't have a clue as to how this might apply to today's oil chemistry / technology.
Seems as though years ago when the multi weights were in their early development,
It was considered desirable to have the least amount of spread in the weight designation.
i.e. if your environment allowed it a 10W-20 was more desirable than a 5W-20. I guess that was because it relied less on chemistry to achieve the 30W? My simple thinking mind would interpret that to mean if your operating conditions allowed it a straight weight oil would be best!
A long time ago in ancient history I owned a 1965 Mustang with a HP 289 CI V8. Amalie made an oil they called "Pro Racing" in straight weights. I ran their 50 weight in that car exclusively. I dropped the weight in cold weather but don't recall what I used. In those days I liked to use the throttle. Besides my highway shenanigans the car saw regular weekend use at several drag strips. Never had a valve cover off that engine. Had over 120,000 miles on it when I sold it.
I am looking for some insight here guys.
, I have used 15W-40 Rotella in just about everything I have that has an engine. Gas and diesel. Dino and synthetic . Again, never an issue with anything I used it in. Now with my first new vehicle ever, I have to look for the magical approved potion!

 

[HEMIMANN]

"if your operating conditions allowed it a straight weight oil would be best" is still true.

Better synthetic oils mimic the SAE's antiquated viscosity index rating by providing a sufficient "high" temp (212F / 100C) viscosity that does not thicken as fast as a partial or lesser synthetic at "W" temp (32F / 0C).

So, for instance, a pure synthetic might be an SAE viscosity category of 10W-30 for those temperatures without any magic additives to broaden the range (called viscosity index improver or vii). A little vii might be needed to get to 5W-30. And a whole bunch is needed to produce a 0W-40......which is NOT good, in general.

 

[Burla]

"if your operating conditions allowed it a straight weight oil would be best" is still true.

Better synthetic oils mimic the SAE's antiquated viscosity index rating by providing a sufficient "high" temp (212F / 100C) viscosity that does not thicken as fast as a partial or lesser synthetic at "W" temp (32F / 0C).

So, for instance, a pure synthetic might be an SAE viscosity category of 10W-30 for those temperatures without any magic additives to broaden the range (called viscosity index improver or vii). A little vii might be needed to get to 5W-30. And a whole bunch is needed to produce a 0W-40......which is NOT good, in general.

I would have thought that as well, but interesting discussion. The amsoil vid the guy said his 10w30 was desirable, but when you add vii's to that it takes the performance over the roof. It mimics what happened to me, I'm in warm area and was convinced of what you said for me, so I went to 10w30 redline for same reason no vii's. However, I had warm idle tick on it but now 5w30 redline. I'm still very puzzled by this, but when it comes to these finicky hemi's the answer is to find an oil that quiets it even if it breaks the known rules.

My truck ticked the entire run 10w30 redline, and 99% tick free on 5w30 redline for a decade throughout the entire interval. With uoa's it shows like no shear even a 2 year interval. I am beyond questioning it, there are somethings in different formulas that keep the engine running smooth, and they don't follow what we think we know. Actually I'm a little disappointed, I would rather run 10w30 redline and suggest trying it first if people live in warm areas, but with so little shear on 5w30 in my uoa's despite a ticking condition, it leads me to believe either the vii's are high quality or there is very little added to formula.

I can say for sure, I would never run an oil that made my truck tick over an oil that made it smooth because of what I "thought" about the formula.

 

[Different Drummer]

Im just kind of orbiting this discussion trying to soak up some oil education.
Something alluded to in the last two posts. #447 & #448 have me a little confused.
You guys are speaking of synthetic oils with no VII's being multi weight. Perhaps I am oversimplifying? I was thinking that the way a multigrade oil is achieved is by taking a single grade oil and adding VII's to it in order to get broader performance. i.e. 5W-20 is a 5 weight oil that has polymers added to it. Under heat the polymers uncoil and achieve the viscosity characteristics of a 20 weight oil. This is why my understanding ( perhaps incorrect ) is that a 5W-20 oil has fewer polymers added than a 5W-30 oil which has fewer polymers than a 5W-40 oil. Etc, etc.
So are you guys saying that a synthetic oil is a multigrade oil right from the get-go? No polymers need to be added to achieve multigrade characteristics?

 

[Burla]

No polymers need to be added to achieve multigrade characteristics?

so go watch the amsoil vid posted, yes depending on base stocks some mono grade weights don't need vii's to make multi grade, of note 10w30 or 5w20 or lesser swing then those oils. swing winter rating to weight, the larger the swing more vii's needed (0w40 will need a lot), but base oils can play a part. 0w40 pao will need less vii's then 0w40 mineral, etc. In many synthetic oils 5w20 and sae 20 might be the same thing.

 

[Different Drummer]

so go watch the amsoil vid posted, yes depending on base stocks some mono grade weights don't need vii's to make multi grade, of note 10w30 or 5w20 or lesser swing then those oils. swing winter rating to weight, the larger the swing more vii's needed (0w40 will need a lot), but base oils can play a part. 0w40 pao will need less vii's then 0w40 mineral, etc. In many synthetic oils 5w20 and sae 20 might be the same thing.

Thanks, watched the vid. I get it now on the Synth. being capable of meeting the specifications for multiple weights.
The rest of the Vid confirms what I was understanding about the oil / VII's.
Except I thought they uncoiled with heat and I guess they do the reverse.

 

[PJ Snyder]

Currently I don't hear any ticking, however, on three occasions several months ago I did hear a couple of seconds of ticking after starting my truck from being turned off for an hour or two. Each time the ticking quickly went away and hasn't come back. So now I'm trying to preemptively avoid it from coming back, it if at all possible, with good oil and oil change intervals.

Due to my location, I don't have access to Redline and getting any shipped here is difficult but I'm still looking. Also, I'm still checking around for LubeGuard but that might not be an option. This is what I can easily get my hands on in 5W-30:

Penzzoil Platinum ($23.97/5qt)
Quaker State Ultra Durability ($21.97/5qt)
Valvoline Full Synthetic ($12.37/qt)
Royal Purple ($61.99/gal and $13.69/qt)

Which would you guys choose?

Thanks!

 

[PJ Snyder]

Currently I don't hear any ticking, however, on three occasions several months ago I did hear a couple of seconds of ticking after starting my truck from being turned off for an hour or two. Each time the ticking quickly went away and hasn't come back. So now I'm trying to preemptively avoid it from coming back, it if at all possible, with good oil and oil change intervals.

Due to my location, I don't have access to Redline and getting any shipped here is difficult but I'm still looking. Also, I'm still checking around for LubeGuard but that might not be an option. This is what I can easily get my hands on in 5W-30:

Penzzoil Platinum ($23.97/5qt)
Quaker State Ultra Durability ($21.97/5qt)
Valvoline Full Synthetic ($12.37/qt)
Royal Purple ($61.99/gal and $13.69/qt)

Which would you guys choose?

Thanks!

 

[PJ Snyder]

I have used QSUD 5w30 in my 2004 5.7 Ram with 102,000 miles. 10w30 in my 98 Grand Cherokee 5.9 engine with 187,000 miles. Both engines run great and don't have the tick on the Hemi.

 

[Different Drummer]

I have used QSUD 5w30 in my 2004 5.7 Ram with 102,000 miles. 10w30 in my 98 Grand Cherokee 5.9 engine with 187,000 miles. Both engines run great and don't have the tick on the Hemi.

Glad to hear of your positive results with QSUD.
I noticed when researching the RGT that the VOA's on it and QSUD are VERY similar.
I am giving the RGT a go, so good news to my ears.

 

[tidefan1967]

Hemi tick still exists on the pre Eagle Hemi's (2003-2008)but its nothing more than an annoyance, its not a cam killer. Dropped valve seats seem to be the biggest problem and to a much lesser extent than that the newer gens cam/lifter problems. The previous gen was a much more reliable motor in my opinion.

 

[ScLeCo]

I don't have a clue as to how this might apply to today's oil chemistry / technology.
Seems as though years ago when the multi weights were in their early development,
It was considered desirable to have the least amount of spread in the weight designation.
i.e. if your environment allowed it a 10W-20 was more desirable than a 5W-20. I guess that was because it relied less on chemistry to achieve the 30W? My simple thinking mind would interpret that to mean if your operating conditions allowed it a straight weight oil would be best!
A long time ago in ancient history I owned a 1965 Mustang with a HP 289 CI V8. Amalie made an oil they called "Pro Racing" in straight weights. I ran their 50 weight in that car exclusively. I dropped the weight in cold weather but don't recall what I used. In those days I liked to use the throttle. Besides my highway shenanigans the car saw regular weekend use at several drag strips. Never had a valve cover off that engine. Had over 120,000 miles on it when I sold it.
I am looking for some insight here guys.
, I have used 15W-40 Rotella in just about everything I have that has an engine. Gas and diesel. Dino and synthetic . Again, never an issue with anything I used it in. Now with my first new vehicle ever, I have to look for the magical approved potion!

I just picked up 48 quarts of Amalie 0w40 synthetic for $180 shipped. For $3.75 a quart I guess I'll be running this for a while.

 

[Burla]

I just picked up 48 quarts of Amalie 0w40 synthetic for $180 shipped. For $3.75 a quart I guess I'll be running this for a while.

What are the specs listed on the bottle? Is it sn?

PQIA has brought action that became class action against Amalie for selling obsolete motor oil. I don't necessarily think that is a bad thing, unless the additive package fails standards. Decent additive package, good base oils generally speaking. But I would check to make sure it is a modern oil and not old stock something or ruther, which they got majorly busted for.

 

[ScLeCo]

What are the specs listed on the bottle? Is it sn?

PQIA has brought action that became class action against Amalie for selling obsolete motor oil. I don't necessarily think that is a bad thing, unless the additive package fails standards. Decent additive package, good base oils generally speaking. But I would check to make sure it is a modern oil and not old stock something or ruther, which they got majorly busted for.

API SN

 

[Different Drummer]

I just picked up 48 quarts of Amalie 0w40 synthetic for $180 shipped. For $3.75 a quart I guess I'll be running this for a while.

Heh, heh, I didn't even know Amalie oil was still available. I think the stuff I bought was in those cardboard cans. Guess you could say Im a dinosaur who bought Dino oil!