from UP Pennzoil to Mobile1 Advanced

[El_Dude]

The last time I checked MOBIL 1 was not approved for use in the new Rams. PUP is. Has this changed?

Where can I check this? And do you remember why it wasn't approved? So far so good for me. Haven't heard a single tick since switching to it, but then it hasnt been very long yet. We'll see in the winter months.

 

[Burla]

Where can I check this? And do you remember why it wasn't approved? So far so good for me. Haven't heard a single tick since switching to it, but then it hasnt been very long yet. We'll see in the winter months.

m1 has been spec'd a while now. It wasnt approved because fca screwed mobil during bankruptcy which led them moving to pennzoil.

 

[HEMIMANN]

Since we have had guys that used stand alone zinc additives and had their engines tick, no I don't personally think it would w/o moly. I'd be happy to be proven wrong.

Makes sense to me as ZDDP is temperature-activated and MoDTC isn't. i.e. - MoDTC is effective regardless of oil temperature.

 

[El_Dude]

m1 has been spec'd a while now. It wasnt approved because fca screwed mobil during bankruptcy which led them moving to pennzoil.

Thanks for the info!

 

[2019RamInSC]

m1 has been spec'd a while now. It wasnt approved because fca screwed mobil during bankruptcy which led them moving to pennzoil.

Ahh ok. When I bought my 2019 Laramie. It was not approved. Thanks for the update. Guess I will stick with PUP now that I have started using it.

 

[2019RamInSC]

Where can I check this? And do you remember why it wasn't approved? So far so good for me. Haven't heard a single tick since switching to it, but then it hasnt been very long yet. We'll see in the winter months.

Your good. My information was valid for my 2019 when I bought it. MOBIL 1 good to go. Sorry for the confusion.

 

[Burla]

Ahh ok. When I bought my 2019 Laramie. It was not approved. Thanks for the update. Guess I will stick with PUP now that I have started using it.

PUP is still a top choice for the hemi, the only issue with PUP is viability. As long as Amazon keeps selling it under 25 bucks per 5 qrt jug, still a great choice for anyone. PUP easily the lowest wear numbers of any oil and I'm not sure if we ever found out why. I would wager the gTl base oil has to have something to do with it. But this is an observation across the board, if you want to see how it is working in your hemi you need a uoa. Sometimes the best answer is the same as the best answer for the group.

 

[MRFREEZE57]

I put BG MOA in everything. My 5.7 has no tick. My GC 3.6 (I have 2) had a tick on original oil. Went to dealer for Jeeps 4 free oil changes and added MOA and 90% of tick went away. Asked dealer what brand of oil and was told "It is synthetic".

Something I have always wondered. My 1950 ford flathead has to use a very high zinc oil because of the bearings. Could high zinc be the answer to the tick?

The flat head as most older engines have flat tappets and need the ZDDP to prevent them from wearing out so fast. Roller lifters can get by without the high ZDDP.

 

[HEMIMANN]

PUP is still a top choice for the hemi, the only issue with PUP is viability. As long as Amazon keeps selling it under 25 bucks per 5 qrt jug, still a great choice for anyone. PUP easily the lowest wear numbers of any oil and I'm not sure if we ever found out why. I would wager the gTl base oil has to have something to do with it. But this is an observation across the board, if you want to see how it is working in your hemi you need a uoa. Sometimes the best answer is the same as the best answer for the group.

PUP had a decent amount of moly in it. We got into a debate which recipe had how much moly added.......I think it ended up most vis grades had something like 80 ppm but the 0W-40 (originally developed for the RT) had 200+ ppm?

Anyway, on paper PUP is a reasonable starting point. I'd still run 5W-30 in the 5.7L Hemi, though.

 

[stormcom]

I am trying to find out what is in BG MOA. Boy was I straightened out on zinc. I will still run it in my flathead. Thank you to everyone.

 

[Burla]

I am trying to find out what is in BG MOA. Boy was I straightened out on zinc. I will still run it in my flathead. Thank you to everyone.

They have done two voa's and two labs, why you see 2 values by each line item. Basically it is a detergent cleaner with a minor amount of zinc, I say minor because mind you that you mix it, so simple math can tell you how much you boost zinc, Example, if you sump takes 5 quarts and your oil has 800ppm zinc, 800x5 4000 + 1982 (5982) / 5 = 1196, so if you put this on top of your 5 quart sump it would boost your zinc 200-300ppm give or take. You can get to exact level or more correct level by comparing the number of ounces in the can versus a quart of your oil, but you got the idea. That 1982 would be half if bg moa was 1/2 a quart, yada yada. You can find voa's of random zinc additives and compare the ppm.

Here is the data. Lab1 Lab2- so one lab iron was 3 other lab said 4.
Iron 3 4
Chromium < 1 0
Nickel < 1 0
Aluminium 3 1
Lead < 1 0
Copper < 1 0
Tin < 1 0
Silver < 1 0
Titanium < 1 0
Silicon 13 7
Boron 4 4
Sodium 88 33
Potassium 13 0
Molybdenum 165 124
Phosphorus 1945 1327
Zinc 1982 1448
Calcium > 9999 12180
Barium < 10 0 M
agnesium 67 42
Antimony < 30
Vanadium < 1
TBN (D2896) 32.58 VI 89 Flash Point 345F VIS CS 40C 98.9 VIS CS 100C 10.7 SUS Viscosity @210F 62.5

 

[El_Dude]

Alright, after going the winter with this oil I can happily say there has been absolutely no ticks at all with Mobile 1 Advanced full synth 5w-20. I am going to change my oil today and will stick with this oil from now on. #fuckputin

 

[HEMIMANN]

@ramffml
Really makes me wonder if you don't already have serious lifter roller and cam damage.

I live in colder clime, use same lube package, and do not have the issue.

I understand you are in damage control mode and looking for faster cold start lubrication. I'd encourage you to employ a prelube strategy now when it's cold - hold throttle wide open, go through 3 crank cycles.

I think there's plenty enough evidence on the forum Hemis require unique lubrication strategies to not self-destruct, and Red Line can only save so much if damage is advanced too far. Which is why I switched to Red Line before audible damage occurred.

Best of luck!!

 

[RedSRT4Me]

Before summer, I changed my oil using Ultra Platinum Pennzoil 5w-20, mostly based on the poll here that had the UP with the most votes, but has Redline with a checkmark, not sure why. Anyway, about once or twice a week I heard an engine tick on start up that only lasted about 3 or 4 seconds. I have aftermarket headers, it's not a header bolt problem. Anyway just today, after about 6K miles, I changed to Mobile 1 Advanced full synth 5w-20, so we'll see if this one stops that little tick. If I still hear it I may try the redline next time. This is just me sharing my experience, not really a question.

Erik

I didn't have time to read the rest of the comments however I've always used Mobil 1 5w20 since day one ownership. I too have headers. I will admit that reading these forums gives you the "I must do something to prevent ......." at 57000 I started adding liqui moly oil additives my favorite being Ceratec. Currently used with the truck series version now.

I'm at 127000 miles now and the engine is as strong as ever.

Current mods
aFe 1 3/4 Long tubes with 3" catted y-pipe and 3.5" downpipe. No longer produced.
Mopar CAI with ram functional scoop.
92mm hellcat TB, mmx adapter
Electronic fan conversion
Custom tuned
4.56 rear gear
8 speed

 

[ramffml]

@ramffml
Really makes me wonder if you don't already have serious lifter roller and cam damage.

I live in colder clime, use same lube package, and do not have the issue.

I understand you are in damage control mode and looking for faster cold start lubrication. I'd encourage you to employ a prelube strategy now when it's cold - hold throttle wide open, go through 3 crank cycles.

I think there's plenty enough evidence on the forum Hemis require unique lubrication strategies to not self-destruct, and Red Line can only save so much if damage is advanced too far. Which is why I switched to Red Line before audible damage occurred.

Best of luck!!

I wrote this in the synth thread but I don't think I have lifter damage, I don't think I have the classic "hemi tick" which is characterized by a tick/knock at warm idle.

My noise is a loud rattle, and it's on when the engine catches and then 2 seconds later instant off; like a light switch, and then it's super smooth and buttery again even before the RPMs settle down to idle speed.

Reignited on YouTube talks about this in one of his last videos, there are at least 4 different noises the hemi makes:
- injector noise (normal)
- manifold bolts breaking (sound goes away as engine heats up)
- oil draining out from lifters when the engine doesn't run long enough the time before <--- this is mine
- lifter/cam failure (the classic "hemi tick", shows up on a hot idle and doesn't go away)

UOA's have all been very good, I've done 3 so far and they all show decreasing wear levels etc. I bought the truck new so I know the history etc.

Somehow I missed this thread back in October or maybe it just never sunk in, but I'm going to change my oil to M1 ASAP and will report back if its any better.

 

[HEMIMANN]

Very baffling, @ramffml

Why wouldn't all lifters leak down at the same rate? Why don't others have dry lifter rattle @ startup? Assuming this is dry lifter clatter. Maybe your oil galley is degraded (deposits, etc.)?

 

[ramffml]

Very baffling, @ramffml

Why wouldn't all lifters leak down at the same rate? Why don't others have dry lifter rattle @ startup? Assuming this is dry lifter clatter. Maybe your oil galley is degraded (deposits, etc.)?

I've run Redline since the odometer read 15,000 miles, it now has 36,000 miles, so I'm not sure how dirty or clogged up it could be.

I do think its heavily temperature dependent, today I got it hot enough to hit 165 degrees before shutting off this time, and it didn't happen today. Last time it happened few days ago it was only about 118 degrees and I got the rattle.

It is truly baffling, because while it happens when the engine is turned off cold, it never once happened when the engine is turned off hot. I don't understand mechanically what the difference is, if oil is leaking out of the lifters causing too much lash, why does it only happen when cold and not hot?

That's also why I don't think it's dirty related, but what do I know lol.

Below is my latest UOA (units are KM's on that report, not miles), it started doing it on this oil in this report, as the weather became colder in late Oct last year.

 

[HEMIMANN]

Nope - with only 15k miles prior to Red Line, the oil passaged aren't sludged.

I am stumped.