Ram 2500 junk?

[Thelegendl23]

Is the truck in question the one in your avatar pic?

The only parts you listed that should wear out by 100k are shocks... everything else is unacceptable.

But offroading and mud bogging changes all of that...

No that truck its perfectly acceptable for all but the lifters and cam.. thats my toy. The truck in question is my daily driver highway only work and back, I'm in IT I do not tow.

 

[wgreggking]

From the website referenced in the install report:

IMPORTANT FITMENT NOTES:
This product will only work on 68RFE and Aisin AS69RC transmissions. The AS69RC is found on cab and chassis models, which is different than the ASC69RC, found on the later model High Output Rams. If you are uncertain as to which transmission you have, please reference your build sheet.

Are you sure the 66RFE transmission has the oil cooler bypass valve? If yes, then a different part supposedly is needed. I was not aware of this feature, nor of reliability issues with it. I am aware of the stupid plastic filter spud, because I saw it during 1st oil change this winter, but didn't have a metal spud ordered, as wasn't aware of it at the time. I definitely plan to get rid of that dumb cost reduction part.

Below is the thread where 66RFE and 68RFE members posted their results. I couldn't find where I found the info on using it on 66RFE, but before I did it, there was some performance transmission build shops,that said it wound work, as well as other members here. My stock valve was the same size and dimension, with a valve/ spring t- stat inside, the only difference was the anodized exterior, and straight through design.
https://www.ramforum.com/threads/recorded-68rfe-temps-after-the-ttbv-block-delete.140448/

 

[HEMIMANN]

Below is the thread where 66RFE and 68RFE members posted their results. I couldn't find where I found the info on using it on 66RFE, but before I did it, there was some performance transmission build shops,that said it wound work, as well as other members here. My stock valve was the same size and dimension, with a valve/ spring t- stat inside, the only difference was the anodized exterior, and straight through design.
https://www.ramforum.com/threads/recorded-68rfe-temps-after-the-ttbv-block-delete.140448/

Thanks very much.

I can't understand why Chrysler (pre-FCA transmissions) would put a trans oil heater valve in all RFE's when they also REQUIRE Group III synthetic oil, which ATF+4 is by definition? It makes no sense at all, given the oil starts out at the ambient temperature regardless.

But could we also make the case about engine coolant? Why bother having a thermostat for faster engine warmup? I'd wager the transmission oil thermostat is for faster warmup such that they get some EPA CAFE mileage credit for a miniscule increase in fuel mileage.

Anyway, thanks again - I'll get right on this.

Update: I ordered the RevMax through flow block.

 

[wgreggking]

I kept the oem one, if I ever suspect transmission trouble, it only takes an hour to put back.
I Don't want them to say I voided my warranty. I still think it was worth the risk. 74K shifts smooth as butter, runs cool.

 

[HEMIMANN]

Just arrived today!

 

[68PowerWagon]

The dealer is replacing the heater core and flushing the entire cooling system, then replacing it with mopar coolant. The only place the truck has gone for oil changes since I bought it was the ram dealer. Hopefully the flush works. Still waiting on the MVP inspector to approve the transmission replacement. 24 to 48 hrs my ass. It's been a week, and just found out max care only reimburses $35 a day for 5 days for a rental car. And that will take 4-6 weeks to receive. The dealer said they will hopefully have a loaner back in the next couple of days.

The heater core issue has happened to many on here, myself included. From what I am told they do not clean the blocks very well after casting & all of that sand plugs up the heater core. I have heard of more than one person that they have replaced more than one from being clogged. Apparently the passage ways in the core are much smaller than the radiator so that is where the sand gets collected. It's NOT a good idea to flush the system with a new heater core as everything from the block will get caught in the heater core. It looks to be a real PITA so I have just been putting up with the cold in the winter.

 

[68PowerWagon]

Just arrived today! View attachment 242160

Best mod you will ever do. I did it on my truck & I have been in some really cold weather & the truck did not shift harsh. Oddly enough our company pickup (Chevy 2500) will shift hard when it is cold. I don't see how that thermostat does any good for the trans? If they feel the need to do it they should at least make it so there is no restriction when fully open. After you take it off you will notice when fully open the passage is about half the size of the line going to the cooler. I would sometimes hit over 200* during daily driving! Taking it out is a must if you do any kind of towing.

 

[HEMIMANN]

Best mod you will ever do. I did it on my truck & I have been in some really cold weather & the truck did not shift harsh. Oddly enough our company pickup (Chevy 2500) will shift hard when it is cold. I don't see how that thermostat does any good for the trans? If they feel the need to do it they should at least make it so there is no restriction when fully open. After you take it off you will notice when fully open the passage is about half the size of the line going to the cooler. I would sometimes hit over 200* during daily driving! Taking it out is a must if you do any kind of towing.

+0.001 % improvement in EPA CAFE fuel mileage, I'm guessing.

 

[AlexC2350]

Just arrived today! View attachment 242160

Where did get the bypass? I’ve been reading about iton here lately, seems like something I want to do. I only have 25k miles should I wait until I’m out of warranty?

 

[HEMIMANN]

Where did get the bypass? I’ve been reading about iton here lately, seems like something I want to do. I only have 25k miles should I wait until I’m out of warranty?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RQ88H7K/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Why would you wait to burn up your tranny? So you can debate with Stellantis you didn't abuse it then wait for months to put another one in and have it burn up too? I'm under warranty for another 3 years.

 

[GTyankee]

I have been thinking about the Heater Core.

The only way that the heater core plugged up at such low mileage is by mixing HOAT with OAT antifreeze, as was mentioned earlier in this conversation.

Now, you should know that to replace the Heater Core, you have to pull the whole dash out of the truck.
Once the dash is removed, then they pull the whole HVAC box out of the truck
Once the HVAC box is out of the truck, they have to remove several screws & then release at least a dozen clips.
Then in just a few minutes they can remove the heater core & replace it. Then they reverse the whole procedure.

This is where the dealership messed up, they should have removed the radiator & take the side tanks off of the radiator. The radiator is then put in a chemical tank for about 15 minutes, then they take the radiator & set it on a bench or something like it. Then they should have taken a long flat metal rod & pushed it through every single tube in the radiator to unplug any & all of the tubes. Then they put it back in the chemical tank for awhile. Then when it is pulled back out of the tank. They blow all of the tubes out with water at medium pressure. After that they blow it out with Air pressure. Then put the side tanks back onto the radiator & pressure test it.
If the mechanic knows his business cleaning out the radiator that way, should take an hour or less.

If they had done that, the truck would not have needed a second core.
Someone was just taking a short cut

This is the HVAC box, it is hidden by the dash board, it goes from about where the gas pedal is & goes all the way to the passenger side door

 

[GTyankee]

Rodding out a radiator, short video

 

[68PowerWagon]

I have been thinking about the Heater Core.

The only way that the heater core plugged up at such low mileage is by mixing HOAT with OAT antifreeze, as was mentioned earlier in this conversation.

Now, you should know that to replace the Heater Core, you have to pull the whole dash out of the truck.
Once the dash is removed, then they pull the whole HVAC box out of the truck
Once the HVAC box is out of the truck, they have to remove several screws & then release at least a dozen clips.
Then in just a few minutes they can remove the heater core & replace it. Then they reverse the whole procedure.

This is where the dealership messed up, they should have removed the radiator & take the side tanks off of the radiator. The radiator is then put in a chemical tank for about 15 minutes, then they take the radiator & set it on a bench or something like it. Then they should have taken a long flat metal rod & pushed it through every single tube in the radiator to unplug any & all of the tubes. Then they put it back in the chemical tank for awhile. Then when it is pulled back out of the tank. They blow all of the tubes out with water at medium pressure. After that they blow it out with Air pressure. Then put the side tanks back onto the radiator & pressure test it.
If the mechanic knows his business cleaning out the radiator that way, should take an hour or less.

If they had done that, the truck would not have needed a second core.
Someone was just taking a short cut

This is the HVAC box, it is hidden by the dash board, it goes from about where the gas pedal is & goes all the way to the passenger side door

Yeah screw all that!!! I will just be cold! Mine is NOT from the wrong coolant. Mine started around 40k & it never had any coolant added. Around 50k I flushed the whole system. For the most part the fluid was in good shape. If it was under warranty I might would let the dealer work on it but removing things like that always make premature rattles!

 

[GTyankee]

Try closing off the circulation door that is located behind the glove compartments
That will at least keep cold air from entering the cab