RC N3 2" Leveling struts installation

Southbay · Sep 11, 2021

I'm sure someone here has put them in. Just wanted to see if there is anything different procedure wise from installing a stock height replacement strut? Obviously I won't have to take a strut apart to re-use the spring, but as far as things to take off to get the new strut in.

In looking at it, looks to me like brake caliper and rotor come off, knock apart the upper ball joint and possible the tie rod, anything else that would need to come apart? Someone had mentioned to me pulling the axle out of the hub, but I don't see why that would be necessary. Seems like having the upper ball joint and tie rod apart will give me enough flex to get the longer strut in.

Also any helpful tips that anyone has come across when pulling struts out of this gen truck would be appreciated. Probably doing them in a week or so.

Thanks!

Moparian1221 · Sep 11, 2021

It's nice to pull the nut off the axle shaft and slip it out of the hub so you have a little more ability to move the knuckle without separating the axle joints.

heckcat9 · Sep 11, 2021

Disconnecting the tie rod and sway bar end link helps a lot.

Instead of pulling the axle nut though, I stuffed a pry bar between the LCA and subframe and just sat on it to get that last bit of clearance for the lower strut mount, since I was putting them in with 3" spacers.

Southbay · Sep 12, 2021

Wouldn't the knuckle flex enough with the axle still fully connected? Will adding 2" cause me to need that much more flex to get the new strut in?

Not asking that argumentatively, just asking as someone who hasn't ever put a 2" bigger strut in.

heckcat9 · Sep 12, 2021

Yup, it'll flex enough with the axle still connected, though it may not be sitting low enough naturally due to the LCA bushings, so it may need a little push to get the bottom of the strut into place once you've bolted up the strut top hat.

cdn cj · Sep 14, 2021

No need to remove the axle nut.
I did have to get creative with a bottle jack to push the lower control arm down more though.

ram1500rsm · Sep 14, 2021

Nothing to do differently really from replacing your factory strut assembly.
Support the front by the cross member with 2 jacks and let your wheel droop in the air
remove wheels
Take off the front calipers
disconnect your sway bar links, tierods and ucas
remove factory strut and replace with your new leveling ones, having a long prybar can help if you need to pry against the LCA to give you a little more room.
No need to disconnect anything else.
Once you have the leveling struts in place put everything else back and take it to the alignment shop.

Southbay · Sep 16, 2021

When you say disconnect UCA, you are referring to the upper ball joint, correct?

heckcat9 · Sep 16, 2021

Southbay said:
When you say disconnect UCA, you are referring to the upper ball joint, correct?

Correct, disconnect the UCA ball joint from the spindle.

Southbay · Sep 16, 2021

Figured, thanks.

vernitron · Sep 16, 2021

When I put my Bilsteins in, I did remove the axle nut and it seemed to be helpful. You do need to torque to 185 though so be aware of that. What is the consensus here on breaking the ball joint free? Whack it with a hammer? I was succesful not using a hammer on the driver side but had to whack it on the passenger side.

Southbay · Nov 17, 2021

Came back to ask the exact question above. Life happened, A LOT, in the last 2 months and never got to this, gonna do it this weekend. Same question on breaking the upper ball joint loose though. Have seen and heard a lot mentioned about not hitting the aluminum spindle with a hammer to knock the ball joint lose, is this true and is there a better/safer way of knocking the ball joint free, maybe use a piece of wood when smacking the spindle or is it ok to hit it with a hammer to break free?

vernitron · Nov 18, 2021

If I have to do this again, I will get this:

It is pricey,but better than damaging the knuckle. The jaw spreads toup to 65mmwhich i think is enough.

vernitron · Nov 18, 2021

Looks like the link didn't show up search for

Mueller-Kueps 609 033 Ball Joint Separator Kit

There are cheaper versions of this style available as well.

Southbay · Feb 27, 2022

Got the RC leveling struts in.....finally, winter didn't cooperate. In any case, someone told me I should drive it for maybe 100 miles or so to let them settle in before getting an alignment. Any truth or logic to that? 100 miles isn't gonna kill my tires, just wondering if it's worth the time wait or to just go get it aligned. I know they will settle a bit, just not sure if it'll be enough to affect alignment after they settle.

Quick_Shifter · Feb 27, 2022

Southbay said:
Got the RC leveling struts in.....finally, winter didn't cooperate. In any case, someone told me I should drive it for maybe 100 miles or so to let them settle in before getting an alignment. Any truth or logic to that? 100 miles isn't gonna kill my tires, just wondering if it's worth the time wait or to just go get it aligned. I know they will settle a bit, just not sure if it'll be enough to affect alignment after they settle.

Depending on what you loosened during the install 100 miles could wipe out your tires. Highly doubtful but if you loosened the lower control arm bolts I would align asap.

Southbay · Feb 27, 2022

I didn't. Only sway bar end links, tie rods and upper ball joints.

Quick_Shifter · Feb 27, 2022

Southbay said:
I didn't. Only sway bar end links, tie rods and upper ball joints.

Then you are golden. You torqued the lower strut to lower control arm bolt while the truck was on the ground under its own weight right?

Southbay · Feb 28, 2022

Yes sir I did.

RC N3 2" Leveling struts installation

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