Help no start

On week 2 of no start, did full battery check , pulled starter and bench checked cleaned whatever that crap is coming off terminals , fuses (ones I know about in fusebox had Wynn modual installed and programed with new fobs still nothing but gouges an d radio when turned to start radio will blank out when turned to start.
I am missing anything or suggestions would appreciate any help.

Sorry but the description you provided is totally undecipherable. No one can help you based on what you posted. What the hell is a gouge? my bet is you meant guage but you won't take the time to even proof read your 20 second post. Invest some time, put together a chronology of what you have done and desribe it accurately. If you won't invest a half hour to descibe the issue accurately most, or at least I am not interested in spending an hour figuring out your issues.

Dean2 said:

Sorry but the description you provided is totally undecipherable. No one can help you based on what you posted. What the hell is a gouge? my bet is you meant guage but you won't take the time to even proof read your 20 second post. Invest some time, put together a chronology of what you have done and desribe it accurately. If you won't invest a half hour to descibe the issue accurately most, or at least I am not interested in spending an hour figuring out your issues.

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Dude, man ... come on, lol.

If you cannot contribute an helpful tip then move on ... just a note, you misspelled "describe", lol.

....

Eaglefire21 said:

On week 2 of no start, did full battery check , pulled starter and bench checked cleaned whatever that crap is coming off terminals , fuses (ones I know about in fusebox had Wynn modual installed and programed with new fobs still nothing but gouges an d radio when turned to start radio will blank out when turned to start.
I am missing anything or suggestions would appreciate any help.

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Maybe, you could check and clean everywhere there is a ground, on the frame, etc. and make sure there is a good clean connections ... maybe someone with an similar issue will have an good solid experience and offer a resolve that'll help you... have patience.

Checking Grounds will be next step, have to do all this on lunch and after work ,hopefully someone knows of a fuselink or something I haven't found yet.

Eaglefire21 said:

On week 2 of no start, did full battery check , pulled starter and bench checked cleaned whatever that crap is coming off terminals , fuses (ones I know about in fusebox had Wynn modual installed and programed with new fobs still nothing but gouges an d radio when turned to start radio will blank out when turned to start.
I am missing anything or suggestions would appreciate any help.

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Take a set of jumper cables clamp one end to starter body the other end to neg terminal see if it fires up i have chased a ground issue on 3 trucks very similar situation never could figure it out just added new ground wire.

I will give that a try.

I am not usually the first to ask this - is it a no crank/no start, or does it crank and just not start? Did it make any odd noises the last time you turned it off (or did it suddenly shut off?)

If it's no crank/no start, and the starter and batteries check good, and you're getting good grounds everywhere, and you can hear the starter solenoid click on, and the starter is drawing current (as evidenced by the electronics cutting out when you turn the key)...then it's not the starter or the batteries or a ground. This is starting to sound ENGINE or TRANS related.

I would try starting it in neutral. If it rolls over/starts, your torque converter may be locked up. If it doesn't, you've pretty much ruled out the transmission, which means it is engine related.

If that's the case, then what's the oil look like? What's the coolant look like? Will the engine roll over by hand (put a big breaker bar on the harmonic balancer bolt and try to turn it by hand)? If it rolls over that way, the engine isn't locked up so you've got to keep digging. If it won't budge, then the engine is locked up. Could be a bearing, could be something internal broken, could be hydro-locked. Hard to say without physically investigating.

If it CRANKS but won't start, that's completely different, you either aren't getting fuel, don't have compression, or your glow plugs aren't heating up enough to ignite the fuel. These could be any number of different things, but without more description from you we really can't guide you anywhere.

I drove to work no sighs of any problems , went go home for the day and no start no clicks from starter, dash lights up and radio comes on till fob is turn to start then radio blanks out. Started battery check / connections used jump box, putting truck in neutral, checked fuses changed to spare fob no change , called mechanic that had worked on truck before and called dealer both suggested Wynn modules had new Wynn installed and programed w/ fobs. Cleaned all connection on battery's r&r starter and bench tested worked fine it became late and to dark last night I will reconnect cables at lunch and retry.

Wait you have an aftermarket anti-theft system installed? That's probably the root cause right there. Every aftermarket anti-theft system I've ever had on a vehicle I had to have removed at some point. They're more trouble than they are worth. I personally believe that it has to do with how it splices into the wiring - if ANYTHING is done not exactly perfect, it will eventually act up.

The last time I did anything like that to a vehicle, I just had remote start added, no anti-theft features, and keyless entry. Worked flawlessly for a good 6 years before I traded in the vehicle.

Battery voltage
fuel filters
water filter
DEF filter
OBD2 Port discovery
CAN bus Module

Is your wynns module for a wiper actuator ?

Stocktradesman just remote lock tech who did Wynn modual said he found no codes active or stored, could the grid heater cause this?

Wynn modual is for key fob

Got cables hooked up and truck started everything working fine , restarted several times no problems . Drove home , restarted aging several times . Truck set for hour went to leave and same thing no start. I did not due block grounds sense truck was working, now I wish I had. I found two body grounds on drivers side cleaned , as for block grounds may have to pull starter to get to it. Anyone know of more grounds to look for?

2003F350 said:

Wait you have an aftermarket anti-theft system installed? That's probably the root cause right there. Every aftermarket anti-theft system I've ever had on a vehicle I had to have removed at some point. They're more trouble than they are worth. I personally believe that it has to do with how it splices into the wiring - if ANYTHING is done not exactly perfect, it will eventually act up.

The last time I did anything like that to a vehicle, I just had remote start added, no anti-theft features, and keyless entry. Worked flawlessly for a good 6 years before I traded in the vehicle.

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Just because every aftermarket alarm that you've experienced has caused you grief does not equate to 'All aftermarket alarms are bad'.

I've had several aftermarket alarm/remote starting systems over the years and several have been excellent.

My last ride, an 07 Tundra Limited, I bought pre-enjoyed with about 8000 miles from a large Toyota dealership.

I had them install a Viper alarm/remote start and it was flawless for the next 14 years and 160K miles.

I previously owned a Crown Vic with a similar Viper system, flawless for the 6 years I owned it.

I had some other aftermarket alarm installed in a '93 Nissan Kingcab 4x4, not quite flawless but no significant grief that I couldn't sort out.

.

If you have a cam angle sensor or a crank angle sensor I would check those but you would see an error code through the OBD2 port
Did it register any codes ?

JHoward said:

Dude, man ... come on, lol.

If you cannot contribute an helpful tip then move on ... just a note, you misspelled "describe", lol.

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Kind of funny the OP berates Dean for asking the OP for a complete rundown on the issue.
As the thread goes on more info comes out. Perhaps Dean’s comment was spot on. I would also add reading any codes and posting those as well.

Dean 2 is a douche

The block heater isn't going cause the engine not to turn over at all.

You really need to take this in and let a decent tech go through it. There's a good chance that tinkering with an electrical system that you don't understand may turn a potentially easy fix into a nightmare down the road. Not knocking you... but there's a lot to these systems and you may cost yourself more money in the long run.

It's possible that one of your modules is losing communication for whatever reason. A tech with the proper equipment will be able to scan and determine if they can or can't communicate with a module.