2018 ram 1500 5.7 stalling and bucking rich

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erick_2018ram

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Well im starting get lost with this one now. New pcm , and new cam phaser with no change here, and now the dealership is saying I need to do aftermarket tunes because of the long tubes. But I already run aftermarket tunes so im like wtf here.
 

Wild one

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Well im starting get lost with this one now. New pcm , and new cam phaser with no change here, and now the dealership is saying I need to do aftermarket tunes because of the long tubes. But I already run aftermarket tunes so im like wtf here.
Who's your tuner,as you might have to suck it up and try a better tuner
 
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erick_2018ram

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I run an edge tuner and I literally only run it stock with mds turned off 95% of the time and all the bolt on mods i have had them on over a year with no issues prior so im like what would a custom different tune going to do for me if i cant even get the truck out of limp mode. So im open to anything at this point
 

Wild one

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I run an edge tuner and I literally only run it stock with mds turned off 95% of the time and all the bolt on mods i have had them on over a year with no issues prior so im like what would a custom different tune going to do for me if i cant even get the truck out of limp mode. So im open to anything at this point
Take the Edge tuner off,and see what happens.They've been known to have issues after they've been installed for awhile.
 
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erick_2018ram

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I took the tuner off while trying to get this figured out , its a completely stock tune while the cam phaser and pcm got changed out. And still dropping fuel out the tail pipe sounding like its got a loppy cam when it dont and everything looks good
 
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erick_2018ram

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The tune has been pulled off completely during the whole time changing all these parts and sensors out so I dont know if I should get a diablo tuner so I can adjust the fuel mapping
 

Wild one

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The tune has been pulled off completely during the whole time changing all these parts and sensors out so I dont know if I should get a diablo tuner so I can adjust the fuel mapping
You can't do much with a Diablo. If you're gonna buy a tuner,that gives you the ability to adjust things yourself,spring for the HP package.
 

Wild one

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Doesn't @DILLIGAF call that DiaBLOW??
Diablo is still 2015 technology :Big Laugh: They also have the rep of still bricking PCM's,you'd think by now they'd have fixed that issue and their idle drop issues:rolleyes:
 
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erick_2018ram

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Did a bleed down on the injectors and everything looks good , smoked the intake and retoqued intake manifold and all 10 bolts were backed out some but not bad enough to cause a leak torqued to 108in lb any way
I can get the truck to run wide open occasionally but will backfire something fence but the idle surge is unreal . And shuts off still any one have any other ideas before I try a different tunner because I cant find anything on this truck at all dealer said cam looked good when he did the phaser

But now im curious myself should I pull the intake and valve covers off just to look even though their is no tick , or any noise in the covers I can tell by using a stethoscope. And it is quite no crazy grinding noises or clacking or pinging every sounds healthy
 

Wild one

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Did a bleed down on the injectors and everything looks good , smoked the intake and retoqued intake manifold and all 10 bolts were backed out some but not bad enough to cause a leak torqued to 108in lb any way
I can get the truck to run wide open occasionally but will backfire something fence but the idle surge is unreal . And shuts off still any one have any other ideas before I try a different tunner because I cant find anything on this truck at all dealer said cam looked good when he did the phaser

But now im curious myself should I pull the intake and valve covers off just to look even though their is no tick , or any noise in the covers I can tell by using a stethoscope. And it is quite no crazy grinding noises or clacking or pinging every sounds healthy
It almost sounds like it's out of time on the cam,but it should be throwing a code if it was.
 

Wild one

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Did a bleed down on the injectors and everything looks good , smoked the intake and retoqued intake manifold and all 10 bolts were backed out some but not bad enough to cause a leak torqued to 108in lb any way
I can get the truck to run wide open occasionally but will backfire something fence but the idle surge is unreal . And shuts off still any one have any other ideas before I try a different tunner because I cant find anything on this truck at all dealer said cam looked good when he did the phaser

But now im curious myself should I pull the intake and valve covers off just to look even though their is no tick , or any noise in the covers I can tell by using a stethoscope. And it is quite no crazy grinding noises or clacking or pinging every sounds healthy
Just for the record they couldn't have looked at the cam,when doing the phazer,as you have to pull the heads to remove the lifters so you can see the cam
 
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erick_2018ram

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Now with intake and valve covers removed i see nothing out of wack still all my rockers arms and valves all look like they are opening and closing valves the same amount , collapsed lifters , on slow mo video and I even dumped oil to be 100% sure no metal in the oil so im going to say the cam is good


The only thing else ive heard through the grape vine is someone say they had issues with surging in a ram before because of a relay but they dont remember what relay it was
 

hunterdan

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At this point, I'd be pulling the injectors and getting the flow tested or checked to make sure they're all flowing equal AND the right amount. I think it'd be worthwhile investing in a noid light to make sure the injectors are all firing the same amount and duration. You keep looking at the throttle body, but I believe that's wasted time and effort. Your O2 sensors should be switching back and forth, not pegged.
This what the O2 sensors should be doing.
Screenshot_20260514-072906.png
You mentioned map voltage, but not actual map pressure. All these functions I'm showing here, are available via the obdlink app using the mx+.
 
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erick_2018ram

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At this point, I'd be pulling the injectors and getting the flow tested or checked to make sure they're all flowing equal AND the right amount. I think it'd be worthwhile investing in a noid light to make sure the injectors are all firing the same amount and duration. You keep looking at the throttle body, but I believe that's wasted time and effort. Your O2 sensors should be switching back and forth, not pegged.
This what the O2 sensors should be doing.
View attachment 584325
You mentioned map voltage, but not actual map pressure. All these functions I'm showing here, are available via the obdlink app using the mx+.
My intake manifold pressure at idle is 9.74 inHG

My map vacuum is at 20.118 on live data and. Manual gauge

And my throttle position looks almost identical to your on start up goes to 15 then trims back from 8-10 at idle before it starts to surge

But my long term fuel trims indicate i cant get to read other then -
1/1 reads 23.631%
2/1 read 12706 %

My short term is
1/1 -33%
2/1 -33%

My 02 sensors reads like that my
1/1 reads hit or miss like that or try to stay negative now and ive changed it 2times now but

2/1 reads ok to me


but I have to use spark plug non foulers to space them out some since I run no catalytic converters of i dont I will code out to rich with the long tubes
 

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hunterdan

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Wait, are you running non foulers in the upstream or downstream sensors?
The reason for running the non-foulers isn't for checking enrichment, it's looking for effectiveness of the cats, so it's looking to see that the oxygen level has been stabilized.
The non-foulers pull the sensor out of the flow of exhaust so it's not getting a direct sample. The voltage at the downstream sensors should be fairly stable and not be bouncing around like the upstream sensors do.
Like I said before, I'd be hooking up a noid light and checking to make sure the duty cycle on the injectors is fairly even and just a blip and not a long flash. Make sure they're doing what they're being commanded.
Might be worthwhile investing in a wideband o2 sensor and plugging it into one of the downstream locations and seeing what it reads to get a baseline.
Otherwise, if it's truly running rich, something is either telling the computer to dump a boatload of fuel via the injectors, or the injectors are sized wrong and the computer can't compensate.
Have you run any new grounds? I'd run a fresh one right from the battery to the body. Then from the body to the engine. Body to transmission. Even if you just get some basic ground straps and use those.
I wouldn't get a handheld tuner for trying to troubleshoot this. If anything, you're going to need HP tuners on a laptop where you can monitor and see all the tables to see exactly what's going on. Even then, I wouldn't even get it tuned until the issue is resolved. Throwing a tune at it is likely just a bandaid to cover up the real fault.
If you have an mx+ reader, download the obdlink app and try running some fault scans on that. I find that app gives more exact information than Alfaobd when it comes to actual faults. Scan all the modules, if you start seeing weird faults on various modules, then it's quite possible you have a bad ground and you just don't know it.
 
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erick_2018ram

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Yes I run small non foulers on the upstream and longer ones on the down stream . And yes ive installed multiple grounds one from battery to body , one from frame to motor , and added another one to the pcm mount to body

And I was going to check the vvt valve before putting the intake back on but other then that guess it time to check the injectors again to make sure they are doing what they are told
 
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