2013 Ram 1500 - Broken Recirculation Door

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Mpgrimm2

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First off, my ******* is too curious for my own good sometimes...

While upgrading my RA2 radio/4speed fan/bezel to RA4/7speed fan/bezel...

I decided to investigate the white HVAC thing above the blower/behind the upper glove box while everything was apart since I've heard of people adding the cabin air filter..

wait for it...

It seemed loose to me, so I screwed with it some more and broke it. Then I saw the servo motor on the side and confirmed by changing the climate settings on the radio that it is in fact the recirculation door!

I broke the friggin recirculation door!
93d57a45e9f61ceeee7a75314864ec94.jpg
3226255f471702201da39dcf637f08d2.jpg

It honestly doesn't seem like that major of an issue, but I would prefer to replace it.

I haven't found anything specific to 4th gens/aftermarket parts (HeaterTreater) and it sounds like an expensive dealer repair (8-10hrs labor) based on the 3rd gen references I've seen.

Not sure if I can do this on my own or will have to have a dealer do it.

Anyone care to steer me to info on replacing it and the parts?
(2013 RAM 1500 SLT)

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SitKneelBend

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Have you considered JB Weld?

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Mpgrimm2

Mpgrimm2

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Have you considered JB Weld?

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Unfortunately I have zero idea of how to get it apart correctly so that it can be put back together.
I could just rip the recirc door/hood out and fix the door, which may/may not be good enough to work (might have to just to keep pieces from ending up in the fan), but that won't help me put it back together.

Hoping to find someone familiar with this on the 4th gens or some info/video detailing it.

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Mpgrimm2

Mpgrimm2

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I'm sure I can drop the blower motor separate from the plenum box, but not sure what that will get me.

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SitKneelBend

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Cuylertech may be knowledgeable on this. I think he said he was looking into how to get the auto dual zone upgrade to work.

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R.L.K.

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Wish I could help .

Me personally, I would remove the entire assembly, repair / replace the plenum door or whatever is required . Then reinstall and test .

But I'm OCD on stuff like that ...
 
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Mpgrimm2

Mpgrimm2

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Cuylertech may be knowledgeable on this. I think he said he was looking into how to get the auto dual zone upgrade to work.

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I was thinking about that while updating the thread. Saw the extra pins that would be needed on the HVAC module harness for the extra sensors for the ATC bezel on the upper trim trucks (see connector comparison at the bottom of post 2 in the new 8.4 head until upgrade thread).

Maybe Tach_Tech will see the thread and have something to add also.

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Ramzaq

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I am pretty sure you will have to pop the dash out if you want to replace the recirc. door.

This may help you out if you can do a repair.

HVACunit-Ram_zps070392c7.png

If you need to pull the dash to get to it, it is not super difficult if you are a decent mechanic , but it is involved.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dWCjuXxBhlY&list=PLM_FgFcXdM5otFEcZHIN5hamPS3w8pcxR&index=26

Also an upgrade to a dual zone would require a total unit upgrade plus electronics, harnesses and sensors and a flash from the dealer if it can be done.

I posted this in another thread here, a lot of people have inquired about an upgrade to a dual zone over the years, but to date I have not seen anyone do it.
 
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Mpgrimm2

Mpgrimm2

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Thanks for sharing that excellent picture. I will take a look at that link from a PC after work.

As far as the dual zone ATC control, we are 1/2 way there with the current Manual to single zone MTC conversions.
CuylerTech is supposedly looking at the mods required for the ATC setup.

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Mpgrimm2

Mpgrimm2

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I'm wondering if there is a way for me to get to and un-bolt the recirc actuator without taking it the whole assembly. Which may let me slide in a new recirc door and then re-tighten the actuator.

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jcarden10

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Did you ever figure this out? Pretty sure I did the same thing yesterday when replacing my cabin air filter. Thought it should have been in the down position and sealed up, so I pulled down on it and POP! Looks like the entire air inlet housing can be had for around $40.


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Mpgrimm2

Mpgrimm2

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Nope. I just left it until I traded it in.

M² Mods.
 

DANIEL AYALA

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Did you ever figure this out? Pretty sure I did the same thing yesterday when replacing my cabin air filter. Thought it should have been in the down position and sealed up, so I pulled down on it and POP! Looks like the entire air inlet housing can be had for around $40.


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Hahahaha I did the same thing on my ram.... mechanic told me they had to remove the whole front dash. Including steering wheel. Which is gonna take a lot of time and money. I wish there was an easier way to get into recir door.. I really wanna fix mine because the wind noise that comes from there is crazy lol

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wallacemf

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This has been a problem since the mid 2000s, my 2006 3500 CTD had this issue. Thankfully I had a maxcare warranty on it, was a lot of labor. I wish they would fix some of these long term issues, it’s ridiculous!
 

DANIEL AYALA

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I was able to go in from upper glove box..... but unable to get the damn door out because it's too big. I tested the actuator and it works perfectly. I might get those two plastic melted or weld it together and see if that'll help. 226b4abb8f2457344fd11f4a5fb734da.jpg

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DANIEL AYALA

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So.... instead of gluing it. I zip tied it and it works!!!!! Opens and closes with no problem. This will be the solution until it comes off... and til I get some time to fix it with weld.c1867906debaa0d8bf8d475627a88e79.jpg

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ATXram1500

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Funny, i have to do the same thing to mine, but what i don't understand is how/where does the recirc door connect to the actuator? I see in your pic, you put ziptie around the white plastic, but isn't that just the recirc door? how does it go up and down after you ziptie it?
 
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