2014 Ram RC SWB 1500 4x4 Rebuild

[MOPAR78]

Good luck on your venture,but start saving money to rebuild it right when the time comes.Be forewarned if you drive it even remotely aggressive every once inawhile,that time will come all that much sooner,stick a block of wood under the gas pedal,lol

The venture starts here with you all's advice! I really do appreciate it and will absolutely look into this!

By the way, what's the recommended gap on the rings for a boost application?

Thanks!!

 

[Wild one]

The venture starts here with you all's advice! I really do appreciate it and will absolutely look into this!

By the way, what's the recommended gap on the rings for a boost application?

Thanks!!

Talk to an engine shop that specializes in boosted Hemi's is your best bet. BES would be a good one to start with.Tony Bishoff has built more then a few boosted Hemi's.You could also ask on a few of the facebook pages,as the odd engine builder hangs around them.

(6) Hemi Shop Talk | Facebook

(6) High Performance Rams | Facebook

(6) TunedRAMS | Facebook

Dodge – Tapped Performance (myshopify.com)

(1) 2011-up 392 6.4 hemi builds | Facebook

High Performance Drag Racing Engines - BES Racing – BES Racing Engines

 

[crackerjack1957]

http://blog.wiseco.com/everything-you-need-to-know-about-ring-gap

The process begins with inserting the ring into the bore, and making sure it is square using a squaring tool to align it properly. A feeler gauge inserted into the ring gap will show you the existing dimension, and from there you can make your adjustments. For a street engine, multiplying your bore size by 0.004in will give you the top ring gap you are looking for.

• 004 x 4.00in bore = 0.016 inch ring gap

For high performance engines, the multiplier changes to add more clearance, but the math stays the same:

• Modified or Nitrous Oxide - 0.005in x 4.00in bore = 0.020 inch ring gap
• High Performance Racing - .0055in x 4.00in bore = 0.022 inch ring gap
• Racing with Nitrous/Turbo - 0.006in x 4.00in bore = 0.024 inch ring gap
• Racing Blower/Supercharger - 0.007 x 4.00in bore = 0.028 inch ring gap

For the second ring, the process is the same, but with a slightly different gap, based on application:

• Street - 0.005in x bore size
• Modified or Nitrous Oxide - 0.0055in x bore size
• High Performance Racing - 0.0053in x bore size
• Racing with Nitrous/Turbo - 0.0057in x bore size
• Racing Blower/Supercharger - 0.0063in x bore size

 

[Wild one]

Well you're researching things,you should look into a water/**** injection kit too.Even if you gap the rings,it probably wouldn't hurt to add a water/**** kit to help keep your combustion temps down a bit,which should keep the stock pistons happier.Then if you live where it gets a bit colder in the winter months,stock up on a fair bit of windshield washer fluid rated for -40F,as it's basically the same stuff you can buy for a water/**** kit,and is usually cheaper.

 

[MOPAR78]

http://blog.wiseco.com/everything-you-need-to-know-about-ring-gap

The process begins with inserting the ring into the bore, and making sure it is square using a squaring tool to align it properly. A feeler gauge inserted into the ring gap will show you the existing dimension, and from there you can make your adjustments. For a street engine, multiplying your bore size by 0.004in will give you the top ring gap you are looking for.

• 004 x 4.00in bore = 0.016 inch ring gap

For high performance engines, the multiplier changes to add more clearance, but the math stays the same:

• Modified or Nitrous Oxide - 0.005in x 4.00in bore = 0.020 inch ring gap
• High Performance Racing - .0055in x 4.00in bore = 0.022 inch ring gap
• Racing with Nitrous/Turbo - 0.006in x 4.00in bore = 0.024 inch ring gap
• Racing Blower/Supercharger - 0.007 x 4.00in bore = 0.028 inch ring gap

For the second ring, the process is the same, but with a slightly different gap, based on application:

• Street - 0.005in x bore size
• Modified or Nitrous Oxide - 0.0055in x bore size
• High Performance Racing - 0.0053in x bore size
• Racing with Nitrous/Turbo - 0.0057in x bore size
• Racing Blower/Supercharger - 0.0063in x bore size

Well obviously there's a big difference. It just looks like to big of a gamble to take. Looks like you where spot on Wild one! This is great information crackerjack1957! Now I've got to figure which direction to go. I think I know what I'm gonna do, just need to think on this a bit!

Thanks Guy's!

 

[MOPAR78]

OK, I had to check out "What's in the box"... These are sweet, can't wait to hear them!!

 

[MOPAR78]

A Tad more...

 

[Troy Gillis]

Following to see what you have to chop to fit the exhaust in er.

 

[MOPAR78]

Following to see what you have to chop to fit the exhaust in er.

According to Stainless Works, the header kit will fit the Ram even with it being 4x4. The exhaust kit is long enough to fit a crew cab and the some of the straight section on both sides of x-pipe will need to be cut, but it will fit.

 

[Wild one]

According to Stainless Works, the header kit will fit the Ram even with it being 4x4. The exhaust kit is long enough to fit a crew cab and the some of the straight section on both sides of x-pipe will need to be cut, but it will fit.

78 watch this video by RacerX,he makes some very valid points about adding power to a stock engine,he refers to the 6.4 alot,but the 5.7 isn't much differant.

(1) Dont add power to your RT or Scatpack without knowing this! - YouTube

 

[Troy Gillis]

According to Stainless Works, the header kit will fit the Ram even with it being 4x4. The exhaust kit is long enough to fit a crew cab and the some of the straight section on both sides of x-pipe will need to be cut, but it will fit.

Yup, didnt say it wouldnt fit, I just want to see how it goes and not loose the thread in the masses of posts.

 

[MOPAR78]

78 watch this video by RacerX,he makes some very valid points about adding power to a stock engine,he refers to the 6.4 alot,but the 5.7 isn't much differant.

(1) Dont add power to your RT or Scatpack without knowing this! - YouTube

Great information there Wild one! Sounds like with the mild mods I'll be doing (Whipple & long tube headers) I'll need to gap the rings.

Also the flash that comes with the Whipple charger does not support long tube upgrade. I'm going to check with their tech department to see if they have separate tune and can upload it. Betting I'll have to take it to a shop set up for this kind of tuning.

The rest of the drive train will need some attention too. But nothing radical for now.

Thanks!

 

[MOPAR78]

Just purchased this. Watched several videos and seems simple enough. I'll just have to get a gasket set and a few more miscellaneous tools to re-gap the rings. Seem a shame to break down a new engine but I want to get this done right.

Thanks again Wild one!

 

[Wild one]

Just purchased this. Watched several videos and seems simple enough. I'll just have to get a gasket set and a few more miscellaneous tools to re-gap the rings. Seem a shame to break down a new engine but I want to get this done right.

Thanks again Wild one!





View attachment 229740

Allow yourself lots of evenings to gap the rings 78,it's a very slow tedious job,been there/done that a few times,lol. I'm just gonna throw this at you,but if your budget can handle it,it'd almost be worth while to swap in a blower specific cam and a new set of lifters while you have the engine tore down that far.It'll make your Whipple all that much more efficient. Ryan Hogan of Flying Ryan Performance or Jay Greene of Greene Racing or any decent tuner shop would be good guys to talk to about a blower spec cam. BTW you're the only guy in the Hemi world that calls a "Whipple" a mild mod,most guys call a blower the higher end scale of a radical build,lol

 

[MOPAR78]

Will do, I wouldn't want to have to buy new rings from over doing it. Your cam suggestions got me thinking. MDS is another weakness. MMX has the solution with options. They also have a forged piston & rod drop in to further the reliability on a modest 6 lbs. boost. Going to have to think about this. But I do like your cam suggestion and will be seriously looking into this!

Off subject a bit. My led right tail light been driving me crazy so I replaced both of them and the third light with an upgrade. Code gone! I Know, now there is something clean on the Ram.





View attachment 229858

 

[MOPAR78]

Transmission came yesterday but the torque converter was missing. The freight driver was driving around for a few days trying to find where to deliver it to. It was wrapped but had some slack in the strapping and wrap. It was shipped from California to Georgia so they don't know if they forgot to add it to the shipping or if it fell off.

Also I called about my engine and they wanted my VIN. They were going to ship it straight from the factory so I would get the warranty. Had to tell them no and ship the one they had, that I did not need the warranty due to the fact that I will be modifying the engine which would void it. Besides that, I'll put 36,000 miles on it in less than a year. They just send me the tracking information and it should be here Monday at 9:00. Sweet!!

 

[MOPAR78]

I've been needing to do this for a long time. The shops always been a "throw all" storage place. I'm going to build a shed to get this room cleaned out and ready for the build. I'll be taking the last week of this year off to get this done.

For now though, the compressor's set up, hoist & leveler assembled, engine stand ready. I'm slowly collecting the specialty tools needed that I don't have. The end ring gap came in a few days ago.

 

[MOPAR78]

Engine arrived yesterday. This thing is sweet! It's pretty much a plug and play engine. I need to order the forged piston & rod drop in kit and a MDS custom delete kit. Once the shop is in order, I'll take my time and begin the build.

 

[Wild one]

Engine arrived yesterday. This thing is sweet! It's pretty much a plug and play engine. I need to order the forged piston & rod drop in kit and a MDS custom delete kit. Once the shop is in order, I'll take my time and begin the build.


View attachment 230642 View attachment 230643 View attachment 230644 View attachment 230645 View attachment 230646

If your budget will handle another hit,ARP makes some pretty decent head bolts ,might be a worth while upgrade seeing as how you're going to have the heads off anyways.They do make a stud kit to,but it's probably overkill if you're not going to go over 12lbs of boost,plus you'll hate the studs if you ever have to pull the heads off down the road.I'm running the ARP bolts on my nitrous fed toy,and have never had any head gasket issues with them.

 

[MOPAR78]

If your budget will handle another hit,ARP makes some pretty decent head bolts ,might be a worth while upgrade seeing as how you're going to have the heads off anyways.They do make a stud kit to,but it's probably overkill if you're not going to go over 12lbs of boost,plus you'll hate the studs if you ever have to pull the heads off down the road.I'm running the ARP bolts on my nitrous fed toy,and have never had any head gasket issues with them.

You mentioned an upgrade on the cam & lifters the other day. I'm looking at getting this.
5.7L HEMI VVT Performance S/C Camshaft with;
Limiter Kit.
5.7L VVT HEMI 1511 Beehive Valve Spring Kit.
VVT Cam Bolt.
.080 Wall Premium Pushrods.
A full set of H/C lifters and guides.
MDS Plugs.

5.7 Camshaft Swap Gasket Kit that includes; All the gaskets needed for a camshaft swap. This kit includes: New Factory 5.7 Head Gaskets (Left and Right) New Factory 6.2 Hellcat Cylinder Head Bolts (20) New Factory Grade 10.9 Rocker shaft Bolts (To replace the old 9.8 bolts) New Factory Timing Cover Gasket Fits 09-19 VVT 5.7 HEMI.

Comp Cam profile:

• HEMI VVT cam grind
• .591Int - .584Exh lift w/1.65rr
• @50 212I - 224E
• 1400-6400 RPM
• Best choice for Supercharged 5.7L VVT applications

I think the head bolts in this kit would be fine for my build. What say you?