2016 Ram 1500 3.6L 8-Speed 4X4 Sudden Transmission Issues

[randymachomancini]

Recently, my truck began heavily leaking motor oil. And out of the blue, the transmission decided to not shift out of 2nd. I had it towed to the dealership where they pulled the following codes:

P1D93 Incorrect Gear Ratio - Clutch 5 Defective
P0731 Gear 1 Shift Incorrect Ratio

The dealer wanted to charge me $1,500 to pull the transmission pan to check for metal and/or do an air check on the transmission and also mentioned that the oil filter housing was cracked. I declined that generous offer on the transmission service and limped home in 2nd gear.

After noticing the undercarriage had quite a bit of motor oil runoff oil filter housing leak, I quickly went and bought an oil filter housing in hopes that the problem is somewhat related. Due to the fact that oil had runoff the back of the engine and somehow made it to the transmission and leaked all around it. I went on and replaced the oil filter housing/ oil cooler unit. Fired up the truck after resetting the DTC's, still, the transmission will not successfully cycle through the gears. However, I managed to make it to the AutoZone where the put a computer to my truck. They pulled the following codes:

P1D93
P0735 Gear 5 Incorrect Ratio
P0731 Gear 1 Incorrect Ratio
P1D93-00 Incorrect Gear Ratio - Clutch 5 Defective
P0300

then finally

C212A-16
System Voltage - Circuit Voltage Below Threshold

* NOTE* I just had a brand-new battery put in, Duralast Gold 2 months ago, and an alternator right before that


I purchased a transmission pan/ filter combo and oil of course w/ a pump to do that transmission service. I didn't notice any metal pieces; however, the oil was dirty. My Ram mileage is currently at 150,000 miles and has never had the transmission serviced. While the pan was off, I took some electrical cleaner, and sprayed the heck out of the solenoid body, where the 8 solenoids rest and wherever else I could spray, I did.

I added transmission oil until it flowed out of the port on the side of the transmission, then put the plug back in. Then I fired up the truck and let it heat up. Took it for a spin and it felt great, shifting in and out of 1st, 2nd and maybe 3rd, I didn't go far. After a quarter mile, I stopped off at the store. When I came back out, hopped in and headed home, I noticed that the transmission was acting similar to what it did before I replaced the oil/ filter. I didn't test it much after that because I had to go to work.

My next step is to heat the truck up and check the transmission fluid level. According to sources, I should have checked it before taking it for a test run but my time was limited, and my curiosity got the best of me.

In case adding additional oil doesn't do the trick, does anyone know what else could be causing this issue? Deep down inside, I feel like the transmission itself is fine, but maybe something electrical could be causing this mess. Something that I can't see, from the back of the engine, all the way down to the transmission where the oil leaked. If oil was to spray somewhere in the engine bay, where could it hit and possibly mess something up?

Thanks in advance and I'm sorry for the long post, but I wanted to be as detailed as possible.

 

[Wild one]

Follow these directions to a "T" don't try any shortcuts,and jack the rear tires off the ground about 9" to level the transmission,leveling the truck doesn't work. The tires need to be off the ground to go through the procedure,so use some good quality jackstands to support the truck.According to ZF the ideal checking temp is between 100F and 105F,the 122F temp is the "max" temp to check the fluid level at,not the ideal temp,so start with a cold transmission,as by the time you get through the procedure,the transmission will be getting close or above the ideal checking temp.

 

[randymachomancini]

Thank you very very much for this information! I will do it again and not cheat it this time. Is this procedure just for making sure the fluid level is accurate or also to ensure the proper function of the transmission?

 

[Wild one]

Thank you very very much for this information! I will do it again and not cheat it this time. Is this procedure just for making sure the fluid level is accurate or also to ensure the proper function of the transmission?

More or less it's for checking the level,the transmission needs to be cycled to fill the clutch circuits,before you can check the fluid level.

 

[randymachomancini]

Follow these directions to a "T" don't try any shortcuts,and jack the rear tires off the ground about 9" to level the transmission,leveling the truck doesn't work. The tires need to be off the ground to go through the procedure,so use some good quality jackstands to support the truck.According to ZF the ideal checking temp is between 100F and 105F,the 122F temp is the "max" temp to check the fluid level at,not the ideal temp,so start with a cold transmission,as by the time you get through the procedure,the transmission will be getting close or above the ideal checking temp.

Ok, so this is where I'm at... I've followed these steps to the T. I wound up adding another 1/2 - 3/4 quart of tranny fluid. However, after the procedure, my service abs light and traction control lights came on and I can't reset them. I haven't taken my truck for a test drive yet. What do you think?

 

[Sherman Bird]

 

[Bigskyroadglide]

Fairly typical for those lights to come on following the green card process. It's a by product of the process. Nothing is wrong with the truck the transmission or the process as a result of following the process outlined in the green card. Clear the codes and give it a test drive

 

[Wild one]

Ok, so this is where I'm at... I've followed these steps to the T. I wound up adding another 1/2 - 3/4 quart of tranny fluid. However, after the procedure, my service abs light and traction control lights came on and I can't reset them. I haven't taken my truck for a test drive yet. What do you think?

Drive it around the block,usually the light will go out,if not then clear the code as BigSky stated
The light comes on because the front tires aren't turning while the rear tires are in the air rotating,it's the way the system is designed to operate.
Read step 17

 

[randymachomancini]

Drive it around the block,usually the light will go out,if not then clear the code as BigSky stated
The light comes on because the front tires aren't turning while the rear tires are in the air rotating,it's the way the system is designed to operate.
Read step 17

Step 17 was definitely the first thing I did when I lowered my truck back to earth.

The lights went out after driving for a few moments.

Transmission appears to feel a little better but it's still not wanting to shift properly.

I have a new (to me) PCM/ ECM that I'm getting reprogrammed on Jan. 27th hoping that solves this mystery.

Any other thoughts as to why I'm still unable to properly shift?

Thanks again guys for all of your very fast replies.

-Randy

 

[Wild one]

Step 17 was definitely the first thing I did when I lowered my truck back to earth.

The lights went out after driving for a few moments.

Transmission appears to feel a little better but it's still not wanting to shift properly.

I have a new (to me) PCM/ ECM that I'm getting reprogrammed on Jan. 27th hoping that solves this mystery.

Any other thoughts as to why I'm still unable to properly shift?

Thanks again guys for all of your very fast replies.

-Randy

What fluid did you use?