2017 ram 3500, 220k mi, front driver clanking/rattling noise?

[Burla]

You don't need to be on a jack for that, but it would be nice to have oil change ramps. Get the largest screw driver you have and spin it.

I'm getting old and soarer day by day, I simply do not get under vehicles anymore unless I have it on ramps. I use my rhino ramps maybe over 100 times, paid for itself many times over.

 

[nlambert182]

The 68RFE inspection cover looks like a half moon. You'll need to pop it off to see the flexplate. Should be just in front of the transmission pan. 3 bolts.

 

[jrsinspections]

Hey folks. Have had and loved this awesome beast since ~2021. I am no truck expert, but have been learning a lot in recent years. I'm hoping y'all can help me figure this issue out. I don't mind taking it in to the pros, but I don't know if it's currently safe to drive.

Bought with 193kmi, now (~3.5yrs later) at about 220k. Wife was driving home and started hearing odd noise, pulled over, and called me. I arrived, we couldn't reproduce it in the parking lot, so I had her take this video while I drove the truck in the 30-40mph range while heading home. Fairly smooth and recently repaved road (you can tell the truck isn't bouncing in the video). This clanking noise it isn't constant, it comes and goes.. and it also doesn't seem to matter if I'm coasting, accelerating, decelerating, or driving straight/turning. Having looked here and elsewhere for clues, I slid under the truck (I do not have a lift) and tried to push and pull on the sway bar links and bushings and they seem quite solid.

I posted the video here: https://youtu.be/CKq4b661nkw

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank y'all!
..dane

Wheel hub. Ny 2500 has gone through 2 on the drivers and one on the passenger. I have 330,000 on min e and they started around 180,000. Heavy engine

 

[jabisout]

Does it make the same sound from both sides? Try jacking up the drivers side and then see if the tire shifts left to right or top to bottom. Basically the concern is the hub bearing.

 

[nlambert182]

Wheel bearings will make a pretty nasty consistent grinding noise. If it's only at specific times regardless of turning it's not completely likely to be a hub bearing. Doesn't hurt to check but it doesn't sound like one.

 

[Rebel Guy]

Maybe universal joints? I plowed snow for years and what you explained about it being intermittent sounds about right. Try putting it in four wheel and see if the noise increases. Don’t go far of course but as the others have said get the front off the ground and check it.

 

[jcurryii]

From what I am gathering you are in Huntsvlle, Al. If so another fantastic shop is Cole’s Auto Repair
813 Memorial Pkwy NW
Huntsville, AL 35801-5847

Cole is a very talented auto repair specialist one of the most talented I’ve ever known and is as honest as the is long.
But be prepared to wait because of his good work he is in high demand.
Best of luck on your Ram repair.

 

[nlambert182]

Is he new? In all my years of dealing/working with with local diesel shops, I've never heard Cole's mentioned.


Not saying he isn't good, but saying he isn't well known around here in the diesel industry. I can count on one hand the diesel techs around Huntsville that have a large following.

 

[audiodane]

@jcurryii, @nlambert182, I ended up driving it to Adept Auto on 72. I've gotten to know them previously and I understand that they have several diesel-certified technicians. Noise did not re-occur while driving there. I got up to the mid-50's (didn't want to push it). Nor did it while rev'ing engine in Park. Before taking it in, I opened the inspection port the parts of the flex plate that I could see looked great. Interestingly, I learned I have the Aisin transmission (rectangular inspection port instead of half-moon). Nice little surprise. Not having any stands (nor experience), this thread helped me determine that whatever is going on, it's outside my current expertise and I'd rather have it done right, than done cheaply.

Will certainly post back when I hear from them. I told them I wasn't in a rush (it's sat in my driveway for two weeks already). So we'll see.

 

[nlambert182]

Aisin? Nice.

Stout transmission. Keep us posted!

 

[audiodane]

Update -- shop can't find *any* reason for the noise. They've been back and forth checking things (suspension, ujoints, etc) and have driven it a handful of times, and simply can't find anything. Their best guess at this point is something kicked up off the road, banged around a bit, and fell back out. In all honesty, watching the video multiple times, this is not an unreasonable guess at this point. Maybe that 10mm socket I lost a while back, lololololol. So, I'll just keep driving it and see if it ever makes any more noise.

On another note, they found that the water pump is leaking. Not a big deal -- my question is, should I also go ahead and replace all the coolant hoses at the same time? Truck has roughly 220k miles on it. I'm guessing if the water pump's leaking, maybe those hoses might be nearing end of life too, and doing it all at once probably makes more sense.

 

[nlambert182]

For the minimal added cost I would..... water pump, belts, hoses, tensioner pulley, thermostat, flush the cooling system, etc... the usual suspects. Shop labor will be WAY less since they're already in there.

 

[audiodane]

For the minimal added cost I would..... water pump, belts, hoses, tensioner pulley, thermostat, flush the cooling system, etc... the usual suspects. Shop labor will be WAY less since they're already in there.

They're quoting around $2,200 (parts+tax+labor) for water pump, thermostat, and hoses. I didn't ask about the tensioner or belts, but I'll ask. Thanks!

 

[UncleGunns]

mtofell, 2003F350, nlambert182, thanks for your feedback. (also, nlambert182, hi from Madison.) To be clear, I'm an engineer in a town of engineers, and have learned a lot on this truck already. Posting here not because I'm an idiot looking to die, but just as part of my research seeking wise counsel. For example, early research suggested sway bar link/bushing, which looked very easy to deal with. I'm not too proud to take it in. Been doing that my whole life. Had my wife's video caused a reply of "oh, yeah, this is easy, do X, Y, and Z and you'll be good to go," however, then it would have turned into a great learning opportunity. Seems that might not be the case here, and I'm fine with that. All part of learning.

If you don't have adequate jack stands and a rolling floor jack, you won't have the tools to make repairs. That noise is in the rolling assembly, whether in the front driveline or front axle. You'll need pretty serious wrenching gear to dig into that. It's not to say that you can't; it's just not the greatest place to get your feet wet.

You'll find most wrenches are self-taught, usually out of necessity. This project is just a hell of a lot to bite off. Find a small local shop, make good with the owner, and ask if you can tag along on the repair. Show a keen interest but also stay far enough back that you're not in the way. Most guys are good about showing "this and that". Beer and food always help open that door too.

 

[UncleGunns]

They're quoting around $2,200 (parts+tax+labor) for water pump, thermostat, and hoses. I didn't ask about the tensioner or belts, but I'll ask. Thanks!

Is the water pump what was making the noise? Seems I missed something in the thread...

 

[UncleGunns]

Wow! I did go out at lunch to try and at least find out where the flex plate is located, and kinda got lost, lol. But I'll do some searching to see if I can figure out where to look and see if there is an inspection hole. Stupid question -- how do you turn the plate to inspect more of it? If I need it off the ground, then that's another check in the 'take it to shop' column, lolol.

The flex plate connects the back of the rotating assembly (back of the crankshaft, guts of the engine) to the torque converter (in the front of the transmission). You have to "bump" the engine over with the key - turn it over but not start it.

A quick lesson: most newer vehicles have what's called a "clear flood mode". You can engage that by fully depressing the accelerator pedal and then crank the engine as though you're going to start it. The pedal being down tells the main computer (PCM) to not fire the injectors and ignition. Bumping the motor over is turning the key to start and then off rapidly, one turn at a time, until the rotating assembly rotates to where you want it to be.

It's usually pretty hard to see a cracked flex plate without a scope (small CCD inspection camera).

 

[huntergreen]

Get a set of jack stands. Use the jack that came with your truck to lift one side, put a stand under that side, lower and remove the jack. Repeat on the opposite side. Tell your buddy to leave his jack safely in his Subaru. NEVER trust a jack and get under a vehicle with that as the only support. The jack should be used as a backup once the stands are set.

I'm hesitant to give this advice as a 3500 truck is no small machine and jacking/supporting one safe enough to crawl under is no small task. You need HEAVY DUTY stands and need to know the right points to set the jack and the stands. And keeping in mind this is all just to get you under a truck that you have no idea what are looking for. Honestly, take your truck to a shop with a lift and ask for a diagnosis. You can likely find one to do it for free. Driving an HD truck is an expensive game.... your posts are starting to sound like a DIYer looking for advice on removing an appendix.

And I'm not trying to give you crap.... your posts are great and you seem to have a good attitude. I just think your are getting in deeper over your head than you realize.

Ditto !!!

 

[nlambert182]

They're quoting around $2,200 (parts+tax+labor) for water pump, thermostat, and hoses. I didn't ask about the tensioner or belts, but I'll ask. Thanks!

The tensioner and belt is a PITA to do. Rerouting it by yourself as tall as the engine is can be challenging. I learned a lot of new words the first time I did it.

 

[audiodane]

Is the water pump what was making the noise? Seems I missed something in the thread...

no worries -- I mentioned a few posts up that while investigating, they found the water pump is leaking. they can't find any reason for the noise, after much investigation and even driving it a handful of times. I'll get the water pump and transmission fluid service done and get it back and if the noise continues, will try to figure out how to replicate and bring it back in.

 

[jws123]

That sounds like alot for a water pump?