2018 with 37's on Stock Suspension

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Timster

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I know but Help Me Beat The Horse Again.

I have searched and read and searched some more. Being that I am not made of money I was hoping you all would help me beat the horse a bit more to help me out.

I have a 2018 Power Wagon still running original tires and wheels and hate how they look. Willing to take a hit on MPG to correct this. I know I can get away with running 35’s no issues but even they look a little small still so thinking and playing with the idea of 37’s.

Regardless of going with 35’s or 37’s I have narrowed my rim selection down to three.

https://www.aev-conversions.com/product/ram-salta-hd-wheel/
Ram Salta HD Wheel
Size: 17" x 8.5"
Offset: +27mm
Backspacing: 5.8"

http://www.cjcoffroad.com/Raceline-929BZ-Avenger-Dodge-Ram-Wheels-p/raceline929bz-sl-cjc.htm
Raceline Bronze Avenger Dodge Ram Wheels (929BZ-SL)
Size: 17” x 9”
Offset: +20mm

http://www.cjcoffroad.com/Method-Race-Wheels-CJC-Edition-Ram-315-p/method-315.htm
Method Race Wheels CJC Edition Ram 315
Size: 17” x 8.5”
Offset: +25mm


Also guessing I will need to go with the RAM ProCal Module (or the like) to correct the Speedo, Shift Points, TPMS etc. for the new tire size.

Can a Pedal Commander then still be used?

I have read that IF I go with 37’s and the above rims I may get a way with no trimming to a little trimming for no rubbing but nothing significant while keeping the suspension stock.

My question though is how will she do at FULL FLEX and in more aggressive off-road conditions?

I’m averaging 11.5 to 12.5 mpg daily driving now (stop and go city – don’t know how you guys pull 14 to 16) any if I go 37’s hoping to not go below 9. MPG obviously isn’t a deal breaker or I wouldn’t have bought this truck, but still.

Thoughts, advice, experience pro’s, con’s, what am I missing and pictures of your stock suspension with 35’s and 37’s greatly appreciated.
 

Alloway

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Great wheel choices for clearance. I am considering the raceline’s and the methods myself. Another option in the method 315 is an 18x9 +18 with the toyo open country mt 315/70r18 basically a 36x13, split the difference between the 35 and 37.
 
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Timster

Timster

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I have heard good things about Toyo's but have experienced good luck with both the Falken Wildpeak AT3W and the BFG AT KO2 and was planning on staying with one of those, probably the Wildpeak AT3W but my buddies keep telling me if I'm going to bite the bullet and go to a 37 I might as well go to an mt as well.

Seems e rated tires are readily available for r18's compared to r'17's or at least easier to find around me.
 

olyelr

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I have heard good things about Toyo's but have experienced good luck with both the Falken Wildpeak AT3W and the BFG AT KO2 and was planning on staying with one of those, probably the Wildpeak AT3W but my buddies keep telling me if I'm going to bite the bullet and go to a 37 I might as well go to an mt as well.

Seems e rated tires are readily available for r18's compared to r'17's or at least easier to find around me.



The size of the tire shouldnt really have much of anything to do with choosing between an mt or an at. I would choose between the two deciding how I will use the tires the most.

I find myself on pavement far more than anywhere else. So I chose the atw3’s.
 
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Timster

Timster

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olyelr, agreed I will stay with the atw3's as well
 

Grand Mesa

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Hey Grand Mesa, would you be worried about the width of that Toyo on a +18 offset wheel? They call it 13” but toyo’s can run even wider than claimed? I really like the 35.7 just wish it weren’t so wide...

Alloway, sorry I have no experience with any tire wider than a 285 width. I'm running 34" Cooper S/T Maxx tires on PW stock wheels (285 75R17).

A metric 315 width is equivalent to a 12.4 inches. The Toyo being 13" is indeed wider by 0.6". However, so are many brands of tires in a 35" and 37" height with the 12.50" width. The Toyo M/T 35 12.50R17 size is actually 13.2" wide and they are a popular choice on the Power Wagon on stock PW wheels.

Remember a +18 offset wheel will put a wider tire out from the frame further than stock by 28 mm (1.1") due to the stock PW wheel offset is +45.72. Stock tire width is 11.2". 13" width minus 11.2 width is 1.8". 1/2 of that is 0.9" wider tire towards the frame, but your new wheel is out further by 1.1". So you'll actually have the new wider tire sidewall further out by 0.2" (5mm). A +23 offset wheel would put the 13" wide tire at the same location as the OEM tire and wheel.

https://tiresize.com/calculator/
 
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Alloway

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Alloway, sorry I have no experience with any tire wider than a 285 width. I'm running 34" Cooper S/T Maxx tires on PW stock wheels (285 75R17).

A metric 315 width is equivalent to a 12.4 inches. The Toyo being 13" is indeed wider by 0.6". However, so are many brands of tires in a 35" and 37" height with the 12.50" width. The Toyo M/T 35 12.50R17 size is actually 13.2" wide and they are a popular choice on the Power Wagon on stock PW wheels.

Remember a +18 offset wheel will put a wider tire out from the frame further than stock by 28 mm (1.1") due to the stock PW wheel offset is +45.72. Stock tire width is 11.2". 13" width minus 11.2 width is 1.8". 1/2 of that is 0.9" wider tire towards the frame, but your new wheel is out further by 1.1". So you'll actually have the new wider tire sidewall further out by 0.2" (5mm). A +23 offset wheel would put the 13" wide tire at the same location as the OEM tire and wheel.

https://tiresize.com/calculator/

Now that is down to a science! Thanks Grand Mesa!
 

56PW17

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Now that is down to a science! Thanks Grand Mesa!
That math makes me dizzy lol.

Love the fact that Grand Mesa has so much info to share and makes it easy for a guy like me. Imagine asking that question at a tire shop. Lol their like “yes it will stick out more I bet” lol
 
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Timster

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Sounds like in this video that with 37's he rubs in the back on full flex in moab. Although I may reach full flex I don't routinely so think I can probably get away with going with 37's. Thanks for the info guys.
 

Grand Mesa

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Here's a tire and wheel comparison calculator.

Original wheel and tire...
285 70 17 tire
46mm offset, 8 inch wide wheel

New
Input 335 or 325 (close to 13" wide) for the "315" 70 18 Toyo M/T tire
23mm offset, 9 inches wide wheel

https://rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp
 

BoldAdventure

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Sounds like in this video that with 37's he rubs in the back on full flex in moab. Although I may reach full flex I don't routinely so think I can probably get away with going with 37's. Thanks for the info guys.

Stick to 37x12.50 don't go with a 13.50 and you'll have minor rub on the way bar and radius arm only at full lock. It's not a big deal. You can run that on the stock wheels.

Or you can do AEV wheels. They'll rub a touch on the pinch seam, but move out a tad.

That's about the best compromise in terms of maximum performance with the least effort. A lot of people want "NO RUB" which means moving your tires way out and cutting up the pinch seam, for what benefit? Reducing your scrub radius?

I'm always after what's the best performance with the least compromise.

I've run a lot of different 37's you'll be good.
 

Alloway

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Stick to 37x12.50 don't go with a 13.50 and you'll have minor rub on the way bar and radius arm only at full lock. It's not a big deal. You can run that on the stock wheels.

Or you can do AEV wheels. They'll rub a touch on the pinch seam, but move out a tad.

That's about the best compromise in terms of maximum performance with the least effort. A lot of people want "NO RUB" which means moving your tires way out and cutting up the pinch seam, for what benefit? Reducing your scrub radius?

I'm always after what's the best performance with the least compromise.

I've run a lot of different 37's you'll be good.

Think you would get by without rubbing with the ridge grappler 37/11.50r 18 on a +18 offset wheel?
 

ALRedneck

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Stick to 37x12.50 don't go with a 13.50 and you'll have minor rub on the way bar and radius arm only at full lock. It's not a big deal. You can run that on the stock wheels.

Or you can do AEV wheels. They'll rub a touch on the pinch seam, but move out a tad.

That's about the best compromise in terms of maximum performance with the least effort. A lot of people want "NO RUB" which means moving your tires way out and cutting up the pinch seam, for what benefit? Reducing your scrub radius?

I'm always after what's the best performance with the least compromise.

I've run a lot of different 37's you'll be good.
Did you need to reprogram the shift points with transmission when you ran 37’s. I’ve read on some threads that was needed with 35’s too. I believe the dealer can reprogram v after market programmers?
 

olyelr

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Did you need to reprogram the shift points with transmission when you ran 37’s. I’ve read on some threads that was needed with 35’s too. I believe the dealer can reprogram v after market programmers?


The actual trans shift points dont get adjusted at all. They stay the same. You need an unlocked PCM to be able to change shift points. What gets adjusted is the tire size, which in essence gets the original shift points back into play. Otherwise they are funky.
 

ALRedneck

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The actual trans shift points dont get adjusted at all. They stay the same. You need an unlocked PCM to be able to change shift points. What gets adjusted is the tire size, which in essence gets the original shift points back into play. Otherwise they are funky.
Is that something the dealer can easily do?
 

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