2021 Off-Road Package Bilstein 5100 Thunk

[JF19Longhorn]

Swaybar endlinks?

I have a clunk as well and I'm pretty sure mine is the endlinks.. they're on national backorder and aftermarket ones I've found are insanely priced ($150+) for what they are.

My truck goes in for the manifold leak next week and they're supposed to look at the clunking.. but I'm guessing once they see the 5100's, they're going to blame them. We'll see.

 

[Quick_Shifter]

Swaybar endlinks?

I have a clunk as well and I'm pretty sure mine is the endlinks.. they're on national backorder and aftermarket ones I've found are insanely priced ($150+) for what they are.

My truck goes in for the manifold leak next week and they're supposed to look at the clunking.. but I'm guessing once they see the 5100's, they're going to blame them. We'll see.

Bring your truck over the bridge brother.

 

[Musky Mike]

My suspension is stock, but at 12k I had a light clunk over speed bumps and it was the swaybar end link. The dealer changed it and it 's been good ever since (33k now). Try retorquring both swaybar end links.

 

[BlackSheepRebel]

For the OP, did you ever resolve this? Curious if dropping the circlip to #4 helped.

I've just done the same thing, 5100's all around on position #5 (Rebel so same setup as your ORP). No dust boot trimming per instructions (I'd like to think the manufacturer knows what they're doing there, but then again common sense isn't common).

Personally, I don't want to drop to a lower position (love the almost level look as-is), but the thunk is annoying. Only happens occasionally, similar situations as you, but hard to reproduce or troubleshoot where it's coming from. I've re-torqued everything.

I'm going to eliminate the end links since I wanted to do that anyway, but really wondering if that strut nut needs tightened more after reading this. I bought a set of compressors off amazon which were supposedly "heavy duty" but 99% of what you buy these days are crap and this is my first time doing this so completely possible I didn't get it bolted down enough (I did torque it to spec, and double checked it under weight). Hitting it with an impact is interesting, paranoid about spinning the shaft.

 

[Quick_Shifter]

For the OP, did you ever resolve this? Curious if dropping the circlip to #4 helped.

I've just done the same thing, 5100's all around on position #5 (Rebel so same setup as your ORP). No dust boot trimming per instructions (I'd like to think the manufacturer knows what they're doing there, but then again common sense isn't common).

Personally, I don't want to drop to a lower position (love the almost level look as-is), but the thunk is annoying. Only happens occasionally, similar situations as you, but hard to reproduce or troubleshoot where it's coming from. I've re-torqued everything.

I'm going to eliminate the end links since I wanted to do that anyway, but really wondering if that strut nut needs tightened more after reading this. I bought a set of compressors off amazon which were supposedly "heavy duty" but 99% of what you buy these days are crap and this is my first time doing this so completely possible I didn't get it bolted down enough (I did torque it to spec, and double checked it under weight). Hitting it with an impact is interesting, paranoid about spinning the shaft.

If you hit it with the impact under load just do it quick. Count to 3

I’d like to think I’m one of the guys on this forum that has the most Bilstein installs under my belt. And the dust boot is a common problem with the diy crowd. They do the install have issues bring it to me and I fix it.
I remove the dust shield all together and throw it in the trash. Reassemble torquing the top bolt to 35 ft lbs and re install.

We are on this forum to learn from others and make our trucks the way we want them.

 

[Quick_Shifter]

 

[Quick_Shifter]

The Falcon struts were a repair above

 

[BlackSheepRebel]

If you hit it with the impact under load just do it quick. Count to 3

I’d like to think I’m one of the guys on this forum that has the most Bilstein installs under my belt. And the dust boot is a common problem with the diy crowd. They do the install have issues bring it to me and I fix it.
I remove the dust shield all together and throw it in the trash. Reassemble torquing the top bolt to 35 ft lbs and re install.

We are on this forum to learn from others and make our trucks the way we want them.

Agreed! My common sense bit was toward the manufacturer -- I know they have plenty of smart folks behind the scenes, but it's hard to imagine they know as much about any one vehicle when they are trying to make solutions for a large audience. When I called Bilstein about the 5100's their only advice was "we don't support 5100's on rebels, would you like to buy some 6112's?" I get it, but clearly there are plenty of posts, videos, etc making them work just fine.

Thanks for taking the time to share your hard won experience. I've learned a lot from your feedback on various threads, including some others referencing suspension "clunking noises" (one of your responses taught me to loosen my UCA bolts, drive ~15 ft and re-torque just to eliminate a variable).

I'll keep the dust boot idea handy, and if I can't eliminate it any other way try that. Interesting perspective on eliminating it entirely as something that traps dirt and moisture... I was paranoid to remove it or trim it since I thought it's entire purpose was keeping the shaft clean. Clearly that's not an issue since people are running w/o it. I hadn't heard that before (need more friends I guess), and figured if it was was unnecessary penny pinching manfacturers would surely have already eliminated it.

Then again: https://www.shockwarehouse.com/news/no-shock-boots.cfm

I've got some SuspensionMaxx end links on the way to rule that out first, then I'll try the impact. If that fails, I can reassemble everything just to be sure I properly bottomed out the strut nut. They are torqued at 35 ft lbs and re-torqued on the ground, but based on the noise that sounds like the most likely culprit (though I haven't heard the end link clunk so maybe I'll get lucky there).

 

[BlackSheepRebel]

Actually, given my luck (why I only watch friends gamble in Vegas) I will end up having to reassemble... but at least it's a learning experience.

Before I get there, let me check an assumption. The mentions above of bottoming out the strut nut made me question how well I compressed the spring. I did something like this:

1. Cuss a lot getting everything off the truck
2. Compress enough to get it apart
3. Slap in the new strut
4. Compress more until the new circlip position would let me reassemble

My assumption is I just didn't compress enough in #4. What's the guidance there? Go all the way until the shaft threads (whatever they're called) are fully exposed then tighten and torque? This part was a bit sketcy with amazon variety spring compressors. The fear for my life might have made me loose focus (I found it hard to believe there are videos of guys using impact tools on these while literally straddling the spring with one end facing their nuts). I guess if this was not bottomed out, things could bounce around and produce a similar sound.

I used a set similar to Waterfowler41's YT video. Lubed the threads, went slowly with hand tools. Aside from taking them to a local shop, curious what types/brands other DIY's find the least scary. Thinking of picking up another set and having one on each side of the spring vs just the two. Probably overkill, but just getting things as compressed as I did took a lot of force, though I'm no heavyweight so maybe a personal problem.

 

[Quick_Shifter]

Actually, given my luck (why I only watch friends gamble in Vegas) I will end up having to reassemble... but at least it's a learning experience.

Before I get there, let me check an assumption. The mentions above of bottoming out the strut nut made me question how well I compressed the spring. I did something like this:

1. Cuss a lot getting everything off the truck
2. Compress enough to get it apart
3. Slap in the new strut
4. Compress more until the new circlip position would let me reassemble

My assumption is I just didn't compress enough in #4. What's the guidance there? Go all the way until the shaft threads (whatever they're called) are fully exposed then tighten and torque? This part was a bit sketcy with amazon variety spring compressors. The fear for my life might have made me loose focus (I found it hard to believe there are videos of guys using impact tools on these while literally straddling the spring with one end facing their nuts). I guess if this was not bottomed out, things could bounce around and produce a similar sound.

I used a set similar to Waterfowler41's YT video. Lubed the threads, went slowly with hand tools. Aside from taking them to a local shop, curious what types/brands other DIY's find the least scary. Thinking of picking up another set and having one on each side of the spring vs just the two. Probably overkill, but just getting things as compressed as I did took a lot of force, though I'm no heavyweight so maybe a personal problem.

The spring compressors are made for cars. The down side to going to a shop is they will most likely impact the nut on and spin the shaft severely shortening the life. These are some of the reasons I opened a suspension shop. You cant even find a you tube video of folks properly assembling a lift kit

 

[Quick_Shifter]

Agreed! My common sense bit was toward the manufacturer -- I know they have plenty of smart folks behind the scenes, but it's hard to imagine they know as much about any one vehicle when they are trying to make solutions for a large audience. When I called Bilstein about the 5100's their only advice was "we don't support 5100's on rebels, would you like to buy some 6112's?" I get it, but clearly there are plenty of posts, videos, etc making them work just fine.

Thanks for taking the time to share your hard won experience. I've learned a lot from your feedback on various threads, including some others referencing suspension "clunking noises" (one of your responses taught me to loosen my UCA bolts, drive ~15 ft and re-torque just to eliminate a variable).

I'll keep the dust boot idea handy, and if I can't eliminate it any other way try that. Interesting perspective on eliminating it entirely as something that traps dirt and moisture... I was paranoid to remove it or trim it since I thought it's entire purpose was keeping the shaft clean. Clearly that's not an issue since people are running w/o it. I hadn't heard that before (need more friends I guess), and figured if it was was unnecessary penny pinching manfacturers would surely have already eliminated it.

Then again: https://www.shockwarehouse.com/news/no-shock-boots.cfm

I've got some SuspensionMaxx end links on the way to rule that out first, then I'll try the impact. If that fails, I can reassemble everything just to be sure I properly bottomed out the strut nut. They are torqued at 35 ft lbs and re-torqued on the ground, but based on the noise that sounds like the most likely culprit (though I haven't heard the end link clunk so maybe I'll get lucky there).

4th Gen Ram bad sway bar endlink

youtube.com

 

[Quick_Shifter]

The guy I used to rent my shop to did the install on my lift. When I got my truck back it was nothing but problems so I had to reverse engineer what someone else did. I received a ton of help on the forums and the light bulb came on and I got it. One of the things that I just understand and see why. When I opened my shop I naturally did a lot of rams. My pms are full of helping members and my schedule is full of new installs and botched repairs. I have the only Ram truck shop on the east coast that I know of and have been looking vigorously across the country to find other shops that have a sense of pride in their work. But the forums are here for all of us to learn, make mistakes and experiment

 

[BlackSheepRebel]

Thanks for sharing that video. Honestly, that's very similar to what I'm hearing. At least I'll be replacing those as soon as the package arrives.

I hear you about pride in your work. My Dad was a carpenter, machinest and boilermaker by trade. Grew up building houses and rebuilding old cars (couldn't afford anything else) with him. I have a lot of respect for anyone with common sense who can figure out how to get the job done, and take the time to do it right (not because someone is watching, because YOU know when going to sleep at night). I'm a computer engineer, so nowhere near as blessed as my dad was with common sense (too much theory), but still enjoy learning and trying to get it right.

I'm not sure if it's easy to tell if the nut is bottomed out enough from pictures (hard to get a good angle), but I just hit each side with an impact for 3 seconds and here's what they look like:

 

[BlackSheepRebel]

Comparing to https://www.ramforum.com/threads/5100-rha-headaches.189211/#post-2655857 it might be paranoia but it sure looks like they're not bottomed out enough (way more threads in that pic than I'm seeing here). :-(

Second guessing now, so the only real way is to tear it apart and be sure. I've also read the large number of threads where some people improperly install a washer on top of the top mount vs beneath. I noticed the ones I found were 4th gens. I've got the 5th gen specific PN, and it comes with different parts...for example, no spring perch adapter or whatever. No washer, just a larger nut with the washer built into it. Hard to explain, but I'll grab pics when I get everything torn apart again.

Going to re-read the instructions and go through the boxes/etc again. Has anyone installed the newer 5th gen specific PN? Did yours come with an extra washer? You can clearly see the smaller nut + washer included in the older PN:

Bilstein B8 5100 Adjustable Front Strut (4th Gen Ram 1500 4wd)

The Bilstein B8 5100 adjustable ride height shock is the choice option for Ram 1500 4wd owners looking to improve handling and bring the front end of the truck up. Stock front-rear ...

www.idparts.com

I'm not sure if it's really not necessary in the 5th gen (not sure how the shaft would keep from pushing through the mount), or I somehow missed it in two parts bags. Even if I can't find it, I'm thinking of adding a washer under the top mount when I reassemble.

 

[Quick_Shifter]

Thanks for sharing that video. Honestly, that's very similar to what I'm hearing. At least I'll be replacing those as soon as the package arrives.

I hear you about pride in your work. My Dad was a carpenter, machinest and boilermaker by trade. Grew up building houses and rebuilding old cars (couldn't afford anything else) with him. I have a lot of respect for anyone with common sense who can figure out how to get the job done, and take the time to do it right (not because someone is watching, because YOU know when going to sleep at night). I'm a computer engineer, so nowhere near as blessed as my dad was with common sense (too much theory), but still enjoy learning and trying to get it right.

I'm not sure if it's easy to tell if the nut is bottomed out enough from pictures (hard to get a good angle), but I just hit each side with an impact for 3 seconds and here's what they look like:

I will get you a picture this morning of how many threads are on Bilsteins.

 

[Quick_Shifter]

Comparing to https://www.ramforum.com/threads/5100-rha-headaches.189211/#post-2655857 it might be paranoia but it sure looks like they're not bottomed out enough (way more threads in that pic than I'm seeing here). :-(

Second guessing now, so the only real way is to tear it apart and be sure. I've also read the large number of threads where some people improperly install a washer on top of the top mount vs beneath. I noticed the ones I found were 4th gens. I've got the 5th gen specific PN, and it comes with different parts...for example, no spring perch adapter or whatever. No washer, just a larger nut with the washer built into it. Hard to explain, but I'll grab pics when I get everything torn apart again.

Going to re-read the instructions and go through the boxes/etc again. Has anyone installed the newer 5th gen specific PN? Did yours come with an extra washer? You can clearly see the smaller nut + washer included in the older PN:

Bilstein B8 5100 Adjustable Front Strut (4th Gen Ram 1500 4wd)

The Bilstein B8 5100 adjustable ride height shock is the choice option for Ram 1500 4wd owners looking to improve handling and bring the front end of the truck up. Stock front-rear ...

www.idparts.com

I'm not sure if it's really not necessary in the 5th gen (not sure how the shaft would keep from pushing through the mount), or I somehow missed it in two parts bags. Even if I can't find it, I'm thinking of adding a washer under the top mount when I reassemble.

There is no need for the washer on the newer redesigned struts. I don’t know of any failures or problems caused by the redesign. But I like that they are not using it anymore. Countless threads on here discussing the dreaded washer placement

 

[BlackSheepRebel]

Picked up a set of less scary spring compressors and reassembled the driver side today.

Before (after it had been hit for a few seconds with an impact):

 

[BlackSheepRebel]

After (100% sure this time, I compressed the spring enough I could feel the top mount bottoming out against the shaft as I seated everything):

 

[BlackSheepRebel]

My hope was to potentially eliminate the need to do the passenger side, but even after doing it and having better pictures I'm not 100%... it looks close, so not as scary as I thought, but paranoia is making me think there's an extra thread showing after the rework. I may be imagining it.

I need to redo the passenger side anyway... because while crawling around I noticed grease on the ground. Looked around with a light and saw grease sprayed all over various suspension components. Cleaned it all up and noticed the boot on the rough country UCA appears to have a hole in it. I filled it the same way driver side which is fine (just enough to pop the wrinkles out of the boot), and I've only driven a couple times since the install. I've had a couple people tell me these need to stay filled or the ball joins go around 6k. Not happy. It could have been user error, but I really don't recall doing anything that would have put a hole in the boot. Should have inspected it better before install. Could probably live with it but it makes such a mess I'm going to have to figure out how to replace the boot. Alway something.

 

[chstrahl]

Subscribing to this thread. I just bought a ‘22 Ram 4x4 off road and bought the 5100’s. I find this thread extremely useful. Any suggestions on where to get some good compressors?