4x4 problem Ram 2013+ 8-speed 44-44 transfer case

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black14sport

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IMHO, the transfer case was likely programmed a certain way for a reason. Frankly, I like the Auto feature. But I do not like that the clutch won't fully lock when that mode is selected. I'd bet that the Lock mode is programmed from Ram this way because either the clutch itself, or the rest of the transfer case can't handle the torque if the clutch wasn't there. Especially when even experienced 4x4 drivers accidentally leave the t-case locked up when making tight turns.

I honestly think it was just easier for them and more cost efficient to make all the 4wd modes act the same as auto simply because they most likely assumed that if you spent 40-60k on a truck (considering it's only in the higher trim packages) you weren't going to plow snow or use the 4wd enough to know that it doesn't truly lock. I really think it's as simple as that, whether or not it can or cannot handle the wiring mod of a continuous lock, well that also is going to depend on how hard you run it. Obviously driving to work on a snowy day compared to dragging a tree in 4 low or even pulling someone else out of a ditch are 3 examples of tremendous difference in torque output.

It may be (re programming/wiring) a perfect solution for some/most cases, but just as bad if not worse for others. Kind of like the original problem itself. I guess none of us will truly know until someone tries it to be certain one way or the other.

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GP4L

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I honestly think it was just easier for them and more cost efficient to make all the 4wd modes act the same as auto simply because they most likely assumed that if you spent 40-60k on a truck (considering it's only in the higher trim packages) you weren't going to plow snow or use the 4wd enough to know that it doesn't truly lock. I really think it's as simple as that, whether or not it can or cannot handle the wiring mod of a continuous lock, well that also is going to depend on how hard you run it. Obviously driving to work on a snowy day compared to dragging a tree in 4 low or even pulling someone else out of a ditch are 3 examples of tremendous difference in torque output.

It may be (re programming/wiring) a perfect solution for some/most cases, but just as bad if not worse for others. Kind of like the original problem itself. I guess none of us will truly know until someone tries it to be certain one way or the other.

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Nail on the head in bold. I bought my 55k sticker truck for significantly less, 1 year old, and I'm not even remotely considering plowing snow with it. F that, Lol. Plus most 1/2 tons I see plowing snow in the winter aren't using their 4wd until if they get stuck trying to back away from the snow bank they've made. And those trucks are usually cheap and like 10-15 years old.

I guess the "off roading" I've done isn't as extreme as some of the guys on here. I didn't have traction problems at all, climbing up steep a wet dirt/gravel driveway in the rain this past weekend. On stock Goodyears too.

But I still agree, I think the matter will (and should) be settled when somebody reprograms the "lock" mode to actually lock the clutch up full time. Either it'll work flawlessly, or people will burn out the clutch, or blow up the transfer case. We'll see.
 

black14sport

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https://vimeo.com/143203353

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^Here's the most extreme of roading I've done other than trying to back a trailer up a lawn that was less of a grade. Kept spinning going backwards until it slipped so far over it jackknifed three or four times then I finally got pissed off lined everything up perfectly straight put it in reverse and held it to the floor before the four-wheel-drive would actually kick in.(And it still spun rear first) All the mentioned above was in 4low. Lock was the same. (Add note: the above video was shot at the dealership with a service tech riding shotgun. Video was taken while he went inside. His diagnoses: when you give it enough gas it eventually engages so it's normal.)

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GP4L

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^Here's the most extreme of roading I've done other than trying to back a trailer up a lawn that was less of a grade. Kept spinning going backwards until it slipped so far over it jackknifed three or four times then I finally got pissed off lined everything up perfectly straight put it in reverse and held it to the floor before the four-wheel-drive would actually kick in.(And it still spun rear first) All the mentioned above was in 4low. Lock was the same. (Add note: the above video was shot at the dealership with a service tech riding shotgun. Video was taken while he went inside. His diagnoses: when you give it enough gas it eventually engages so it's normal.)

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Yeah, I understand the complaints. I'm noting the stock Goodyears too. I also understand why Ram did what they did. There's likely subtle differences in the way the clutch engages between the 3 4wd modes. I still probably have to wait 6-7 weeks until (enough) snow falls to actually experience this 4wd system in really slippery conditions.

So, while your truck was sitting at idle, spinning the rear tire(s) - what would happen if you gave it some gas? Like just enough to accelerate normally? Would the front drive kick in? Or would it just continue to chuck dirt and grass everywhere with the rear only?
 

black14sport

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Yeah, I understand the complaints. I'm noting the stock Goodyears too. I also understand why Ram did what they did. There's likely subtle differences in the way the clutch engages between the 3 4wd modes. I still probably have to wait 6-7 weeks until (enough) snow falls to actually experience this 4wd system in really slippery conditions.

So, while your truck was sitting at idle, spinning the rear tire(s) - what would happen if you gave it some gas? Like just enough to accelerate normally? Would the front drive kick in? Or would it just continue to chuck dirt and grass everywhere with the rear only?
In that situation in the video if I gave it gas it would still spin a significant amount before the front would kick in and if I let off it had to relearn that I was in a slippery situation. Once I got up to the top of the hill where it was flat I stepped on the brakes to put it in park and I realized my rear tires were still spinning while I was stopped with the brakes applied. I literally had to push the brake pedal down as far as it would go to get the rear to stop spinning so I could shift it to park

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black14sport

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So yes the front did kick in, but my God! If that were sand if be screwed. And according to Chrysler's "4x4 for dummies" book, if it's on a lift and all for tires go around and the computer isn't throwing any codes, you're good.

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BigDogg795

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At this point, I've just accepted that I've bought the Dodge equivalent to a Honda Ridgeline... :roflsquared:
 

R.L.K.

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Damn ... DAMN ....
All I can say is : I HAVEN'T HAD ANY ISSUES .... I USE MY 4WD SOMETIMES DAILY ..... I LOVE MY RAM TRUCK ! !

I must be one of the LUCKY ones , my truck pulls like a BEAST IN 4x4 , MUD , SNOW , WHATEVER !
HAPPY HAPPY HAPPY ! . I hate it that you guys are having these troubles ...
 

black14sport

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Damn ... DAMN ....
All I can say is : I HAVEN'T HAD ANY ISSUES .... I USE MY 4WD SOMETIMES DAILY ..... I LOVE MY RAM TRUCK ! !

I must be one of the LUCKY ones , my truck pulls like a BEAST IN 4x4 , MUD , SNOW , WHATEVER !
HAPPY HAPPY HAPPY ! . I hate it that you guys are having these troubles ...
What trim level do YOU have?

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Hemi395

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Damn ... DAMN ....
All I can say is : I HAVEN'T HAD ANY ISSUES .... I USE MY 4WD SOMETIMES DAILY ..... I LOVE MY RAM TRUCK ! !

I must be one of the LUCKY ones , my truck pulls like a BEAST IN 4x4 , MUD , SNOW , WHATEVER !
HAPPY HAPPY HAPPY ! . I hate it that you guys are having these troubles ...
I'm pretty sure you have the 44-45 which is why your truck does so well. No 4auto mode right?
 

black14sport

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Well here's what I got from RS Gear. I asked about that solid locking clutch replacement:

WE ARE TRYING TO GET THE COST DOWN AS OF NOW ITS 895.00 FOR ALL THE PARTS NEEDED.

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GP4L

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Well here's what I got from RS Gear. I asked about that solid locking clutch replacement:

WE ARE TRYING TO GET THE COST DOWN AS OF NOW ITS 895.00 FOR ALL THE PARTS NEEDED.

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The stock Goodyears will probably sink you in deep sand even with a real locking t-case. Factoring in the voided warranty on top of the cost to modify the t-case, I'd try some legit tires first and see how it performs. Idk, my .02
 

black14sport

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The stock Goodyears will probably sink you in deep sand even with a real locking t-case. Factoring in the voided warranty on top of the cost to modify the t-case, I'd try some legit tires first and see how it performs. Idk, my .02
I understand what you're saying better Tire equals better traction, the only problem is that even if I have better tires on they're not going to reprogram the computer into realizing that my front axle is doing absolutely nothing. Point being I should not have to buy super swampers in order to drive across my lawn just because my truck keeps disengaging from four wheel drive when it feels like it.

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black14sport

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And just to be clear I did ask them how it would affect my warranty and a few other questions but that is the only response that I got back from them so far. The way I look at it if I have the parts installed either by myself or someone else other than AI factory Dodge dealership no one is going to know what's in there unless they tear it apart. So basically unless the transfer case itself breaks they won't know the difference I'm assuming. So say I install the kit and blow my front axle because of it, unless it throws a code they're never going to know any different

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6.7CumminsDrvr

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I contacted RSG a while back aswell and I'm pretty sure this kit wil be going into my truck at some point...........if I keep it. This would make it operate effectively like a 44-45 so I do see how it would blow up the front axle or tcase itself. Mechanically, trucks with the 44-45 have the same running gear so I would think there would be no issue.
 

Hemi395

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I'm pretty sure the front axle is the same for all 4wd 1500s except for maybe the Rebel.
 
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