6x9's or 6.5's

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Big Boi

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Kicker or Infinity?

What do you guys think about Infinity Primus PR6500CS's in all the doors?

Gonna add one 10 or one 12 Kicker CompVx in a ported box down the line
 
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What about the door speakers?
 

Graygoose

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Id be biased, so I will let the masses decide :)
 

Etroze86

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To me Harmon products like Infinity and JBL have been very very bright and harsh in the upper frequencies. If you have a way to tune them down I would say go for it.
 
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How about two sets of Kicker 40CSS694 ' with a full 1/4" wood spacer on the front doors, and a Kicker CVX12 R 12", pushed by a Hifonics Brutus BRX5000.5?
 
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Graygoose

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how about two sets of kicker 40css694 ' with a full 1/4" wood spacer on the front doors, and a kicker cvx12 r 12", pushed by a hifonics brutus brx5000.5?

like :)
 

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I haven't heard them but id roll with those 6x9 components over some coax for sure. dedicated 6x9 midbass and separate tweeter should sound real nice. Plenty of cone area for some nice solid midbass. A higher tweeter will help bring the soundstage up as well. Plus if you get more serious down the road u can easily ditch the passive x-overs and run them active.



Although, I think a set in the back is overkill. Rear fill should be just that...filler or ambience. When ur at a concert, how much music comes from behind you, if youre looking at the stage? I think that's where you should find a decent set of coax 6x9s.



Ive got mixed emotions about hifonix. I think theyre a pretty good budget amp that will do close if not right at rated power. Ive seen guys beat on em for 2 years with no issues and others swap out a 100x2 4 different times for random manufacturer issues. id def buy one from a certified dealer with warranty if you go that route.



As for the sub.....That's not the one you can buy at wal-mart is it? lol
 
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I knew you would, LoL.

o gauge or 4 gauge?
KnuKoncepts kit with rca's or just the power wires and higher end rca's (Monster Cable?)


I haven't heard them but id roll with those 6x9 components over some coax for sure. dedicated 6x9 midbass and separate tweeter should sound real nice. Plenty of cone area for some nice solid midbass. A higher tweeter will help bring the soundstage up as well. Plus if you get more serious down the road u can easily ditch the passive x-overs and run them active.



Although, I think a set in the back is overkill. Rear fill should be just that...filler or ambience. When ur at a concert, how much music comes from behind you, if youre looking at the stage? I think that's where you should find a decent set of coax 6x9s.



Ive got mixed emotions about hifonix. I think theyre a pretty good budget amp that will do close if not right at rated power. Ive seen guys beat on em for 2 years with no issues and others swap out a 100x2 4 different times for random manufacturer issues. id def buy one from a certified dealer with warranty if you go that route.



As for the sub.....That's not the one you can buy at wal-mart is it? lol
I like the way you think sir, LoL

I had to check, but no Walmart does not sell the Kicker 10CVX124
 
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Also, a Bass Boost knob is included with the Brutus amp. Cranking the knob will boost just the sub or everything?

Here are the specs:
Description:
HIFONICS BRX5000.5 BRUTUS AMP 5-CH 5000W COMPONENT SPEAKERS SUBWOOFERS AMPLIFIER

Features:


Brutus Series 5-Channel Class AB Car Amplifier with Class D Subwoofer Channel
Channel 1-4 RMS Power Rating:
4 ohms: 60 watts x 4 chan.
2 ohms: 120 watts x 4 chan.
Subwoofer Channel RMS Power Rating:
4 ohms: 475 watts x 1 chan.
2 ohms: 750 watts x 1 chan.
1 ohm: 1000 watts x 1 chan.
Ultra-Fi MOSFETS Circuit maximizing power efficiency while improving sound quality
Wired remote bass level control included
LED power (green) and protect (red) indicators
Full-Range Channels Selectable Bass Boost (0/6/12 dB @ 45 Hz)
Sub Channel Variable Bass Boost (0 to +12 dB bass boost at 45 Hz)
Soft Start Turn-on
Mono channel operation
Heavy duty aluminum alloy heat-sink with illuminated Hifonics logo
Lighted connectors and blue wash of light from the underside of the heatsink
Input sensitivity:
Level: 200mV-9V
Variable high-pass filter (50-250 Hz)
Variable low-pass filter (50-250 Hz)
CEA-2006 compliant amplifier
Dimensions: 24-7/16"L x 10-5/16"W x 2-1/2"H
 

BradKnob

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I knew you would, LoL.

o gauge or 4 gauge?
KnuKoncepts kit with rca's or just the power wires and higher end rca's (Monster Cable?)



I like the way you think sir, LoL

I had to check, but no Walmart does not sell the Kicker 10CVX124


lol, that amp should be enough for what you wanna do. If not you could bridge 4 channels to the components for double the power and run rear door speakers off the head unit.


bass boost just boosts the sub channel
 
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lol, that amp should be enough for what you wanna do. If not you could bridge 4 channels to the components for double the power and run rear door speakers off the head unit.


bass boost just boosts the sub channel
Speaking of bridgine. The Kicker 40CSS694's are rated at 150 watts RMS @ 4ohms. If I bridge the amp to the Kicker 40CSS694's, wont the ohms drop to 2 ohms?
 
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Buying these PVC spacers instead of the diy wood spacers I was going to make.
 

BradKnob

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Speaking of bridgine. The Kicker 40CSS694's are rated at 150 watts RMS @ 4ohms. If I bridge the amp to the Kicker 40CSS694's, wont the ohms drop to 2 ohms?


No, impedance only affects the output of the amp. If you bridge the 4 channels into 2, the amp will still be seeing a 4ohm load. If your speakers were 4 ohm dual voice coil then the amp would have to see a 2 or 8 ohm load.
 

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I would still look at doing the spacers yourself if you are handy. The reason for this is PVC is flexible and with the amount of power you want to put to them they will flex. I know this because I have them lol. The wood will help strengthen that area of the door and hopefully cut down on a little resonance that you will have.
 
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See I was thinking the opposite. I'm a carpenter by trade, so there's no reason I can make them. I thought the wood would look tacky. But if it is a better solution than the pvc, I will just paint them flat black to blend in. Yes I know the spacers won't be seen once the door panels are put back on, LoL
 

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I like truck undercoating as it seems to keep water from soaking in.
 

Etroze86

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I know Bradknob did a bunch of cutting in his build but he does show how to deaden a door correctly IIRC. I would try to get ideas from that as well.
 
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do I want the 2 ohm subs or the 4 ohm for this setup? I'm thinking 2 ohms.
 

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